iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool

I've had a wire come loose in a CAT6 keystone jack and deliver 100mbps just fine, but not 1/10gbps. I'd get a cable tester and start there.

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/

I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B.3BFbGQ1YJVT

when doing anything with RJ45 punch downs or cable termination.

You can buy a cheap cable tester that splits into two pieces. Check out the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_6hHDFbG9AVSB9

You can check the cat6 with a cable tester like this one for $10 on Amazon:

iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WW9GEb7TNYH0S

If you know the cable is working, then you can plug a laptop or computer into the jack to see if you can get your dhcp address and internet from the modem.

I would use an Ethernet tester - hook one side to the room/point abs go down to basement. Switch cable till you get signal. Benefit of this approach is that you also get to see whether the cable is correctly run. Con... still need to go through all rooms one by one.

Eg tester: iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ

The cable testers are super cheap. You can get one that's just fine for $10.

One like this is just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M63EMBQ/

If the whites have no stripe on them then the only way I can see you getting the right white with the right colored white would be to check them with a voltmeter. The order of the white wires are important. If you switch them up it is going to break the tx and rx pairs. If you have one of these you could find out which wires were switched right now and could then determine which wires to switch when crimping the new end onto the cable. You don’t need round cable to do this you just need to make sure the pairs are correct on the replaced end to match the pre-connected end.

This is available in the USA, https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1601413929&sr=8-3

Check your cables with a individual pin tester - it sounds like cable build issues to me. 10/100 uses pins 3-6 and 1000mbit requires all 8 pins - so a duff pin sometimes results in a cable doing 10/100 but not gigabit.

On long cables, getting the correct 568 a or b standard matters, on very short cables you should but it'll probably work anyway as there's so little cable there will be less crosstalk anyway.

The basic network cable testers show each pin, it's frustratingly easy to get a rj45 crimped that looks fine but one pin isn't working: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=network+cable+tester&qid=1604910631&sr=8-4

Also - as most people say, premade cables are so cheap it's not worth the time of making them, just have a bag of 15cm, 30cm, 50cm and 100cm and various colours, and they always just work. Sometimes at 10gbit too.... but it's probably worth buying better shielded cables for that as the gear's expensive enough that connecting it with a $1 cable is a false economy if it ever drops due to EM noise in the cabinet.

If you are trying to figure out whether or not two ends are the same cable, you can buy a cheap two-part cable tester like this one cable tester and use additional cables as connectors.

For his purposes, this $10 tester would be more than adequate:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ

Appreciate the response! I should note that on the far right side of the patch panel there are 8 Cat6A cables running a security system, and all of that is working flawlessly. So I'm thinking the patch panel as a whole is working correctly.

Is something like this RJ45 network tester what I'm after? The LED light on the switch does light up when I connect a cable from the router (via the patch panel), so I'm not sure if that's telling me I'm good to go, or if that might light up regardless of an issue with the cable.

I've had this issue with bad ethernet cords on different devices. You can get an ethernet cable testerfrom Amazon for under $10 save a lot of headaches

You can use 568A or 568B it doesn’t matter as long as you continue to use only one standard.

If you’re seeing the exact same fault on all cables then that’s rather curious. The best bet would be change modules and try again. I assume you used a proper LSA tool if punch down or a proper pair of flush cutters if snap lock type of modules. An ohm meter would confirm shorts/opens with no modules connected.

I have no knowledge of Klein Scout but at the price of $150-200 does it not provide measurements to the fault? I use a $15 ModTap to check terminations/cables although professional instals I’d use the company Fluke tester.

Edit: Some electricians do not understand the need to be gentle with data cabling.

Edit2: This is what I use as it’s cheap and disposable when I lose on a site.

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ

If the phone lines are terminated on both ends (has jacks) a cheap network tester will likely help track down which wire is which.

I've cussed and chased so many problems. Narrowed down to physical connection issues.

Buy one of These and be done.

You can buy a network cable tester on Amazon for about $10 and get better confirmation that all 8 wires are right and making good connection end to end. It's a more thorough check than just visually confirming colors at the jacks.

I'd suggest having two laptops/PCs, each w/ a GigE interface, and a crossover Ethernet cable, so that you can test the throughput via each of the home's installed Cat5e lines using a LAN speed testing tool such as iPerf or LAN Speed Test.

Oh, you might also want to snag a Cat5e testing tool, such as the following: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/

Good point, have any recommendations, or would something like this be good enough? iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester

iMBAPrice - RJ45 Network Cable Tester for Lan Phone RJ45/RJ11/RJ12/CAT5/CAT6/CAT7 UTP Wire Test Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/

What's the difference between this and the cheaper one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M63EMBQ/

Can't see clearly enough in the pictures, but you've definitely got an issue with the blue/brown pairs. Something like this can help.

And while we're at recommending tools an ethernet tester will always come in handy.

Buy/borrow something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_HiTqEbCASBVB1

It will save you from pulling your hair

I'd suggest also physically inspect the patch panel- make sure the wires in the female RJ45 port are straight, and look on the back to make sure the wires are punched down well. A cheap wire tester like this one can be helpful to tell you if the wires are at least making electrical contact.

If you don't have something like that, it's easy to do with a multimeter. Take two short lengths of Cat5/Cat6 cable. Crimp one side of each. On the other side, strip off a few inches of cable jacket.
On one end, strip and expose every wire, then twist them all together.
On the other end, strip and expose every wire, but don't tie them together.

Plug the tied together side of the cable in one side of the cable to be tested. On the other side, you should get continuity between any wire and any other wire. Whichever wire doesn't give you continuity is broken.

If it was just a normal cable that's not going through any walls, you're probably fine to use it. Not everyone has one of these but if you're making or going through cables at a fast rate it's worth it's weight in gold: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+cable+tester&qid=1592202049&sr=8-3

Honestly I'd probably just keep using it until I noticed a problem. Just... yeah don't put it anywhere permanent because at the very least you've created a potential failure point in the future.

I don't know if it's cat5e or 6. I don't think the tester I bought has that functionality. I got this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M63EMBQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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The master bedroom is about 30-50 feet away from the closet with the router.

I used this network tester. All lights were green!

Yes, connecting the MacBook directly to the outdoor ethernet cable works like a charm. FWIW, before I had this setup, I had a Powerline adapter. It also worked well with the MacBook but the PC rarely got an ethernet address through it. That's what led me to go this route.

I ran the Wireshark capture again. This time for over 2 hours. For the first while, everything was working beautifully. Then I fired up a game and when I quit back to the desktop, I didn't have a IP address anymore. As soon as I turned on the wifi, it connected and got an address immediately. https://we.tl/t-YtWOo0i516

Out of curiosity, when it was still working, I tried renewing and releasing the DHCP lease via Command Prompt and it had no issues.

I wonder if I should try giving the PC a static IP.

It seems all of this hasn't yet proven that this is an issue on the PC. Could still be an issue on the G1100. I may swap the G1100 out for my old Airport Extreme just to see if another router would have the same issue.

If this is 4 pair (8 conductor wiring) solid core (not stranded) , it'll probably do 1Gbs. The runs in your typical home are short and unless they were deliberately going over fluorescent lights and running right on top of electrical lines, you'll probably be fine. You have very little to lose by checking. Just replace the RJ11 connectors with RJ45's. Get a simple tester like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ/

It'll verify the continuity of the conductors from end-to-end. If you really think you're going to have difficulty determining what jack goes where -- pick up the wire tracker in that same URL. It's a nice tool to have.

If you get 1 Gbs across the cables, setup a constant ping and look for errors. If you have a managed switch, I'd check the interface statistics because if it's CAT3 -- there's a greater chance of errors showing up than with standard cabling.

You've already passed a major hurdle if the cables are home run from each location back to a central wiring area rather than just a daisy-chained cable and the fact that they have all 8-conductors rather than 4. Do some testing and post back. I'm optimistic that you'll get 1Gbs connections if the cable tester shows continuity on all 8 conductors.

Tip: if there's extra cable in the walls, cut some of it off so that you're terminating on previously unexposed wire when you do the RJ45's.

Some terminology:

Switches have Ports on them

Ethernet cable is terminated to a "jack" in room.

A "socket" is what you plug power into. :) :)

Probably have a Ethernet cable or wiring problem.

get a cable tester and test the cable run

$9.00 on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cat6+cable+tester&qid=1578604791&sr=8-6

I've used Pros' Kit for years ( see below ). I have 100% success with this tool, it's precise and definitely can't be blamed by the workman :)

https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-808-376C-Modular-Crimping-Crimpers/dp/B01LYL39AL

Make sure you also buy a cable tester as well as you should never use a cable without it being tested.

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=YQ0CYVC0HXCE&dchild=1&keywords=rj45+cable+tester&qid=1604131338&sprefix=rj45+cable+t%2Caps%2C357&sr=8-3

Do yourself a big favor: go online and get yourself an Ethernet tester, stat. I use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3J4KED96JFH5B&dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1596807880&sprefix=ethernet+test%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-4

Cheap and effective, when trying to figure where cables were going in my house and whether they were properly terminated it was invaluable. Sure, there are more expensive tools out there and they will give you more features, but this is the bare minimum.

If the cabling truly is CAT 5E then you should be able to use it for networking. Not saying that this is a 100% rock-solid truth, but generally speaking, cutting the ends and re-terminating makes a huge difference.

Also, that extra \~5-6' of cable that is coming through should be cleaned up. It won't change the situation much but it will give you far more room. My installer crimped jacks on the ends of all of the cables with about 5 feet of extra cable and I ended up trimming them down and now have much better airflow.

Re-crimping as 568B will allow you to use it for Ethernet.

The reason I believed it was wired as T568B as almost every image I've been able to find on forums or Google have T568B as Blue, Orange, Green, Brown as seen here and here. T568A seems to be always wired as Blue, Green, Orange, Brown when in a single line.

Would a simple cable tester like this work? I don't think I'll ever use half the features on the other model.

It's super easy and I'd recommend trying on some random old cables first. I find the easiest connectors are the end pass through like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QB8JWLH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nrBMEbV3QMR2D

If you get those you have to get the right crimpers like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3DXLH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6sBMEb3SWWYQ6

And a simple tester like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63EMBQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You don't have to get those exact ones but the pass through makes it about 1000 times easier to get the wires through the plugs.

Just to add the 3rd validation, the challenge would have nothing to do with the ONT. It is just a modem that you would run an ethernet cable from to your router if you had been using Frontier/Ziply.
Likely just an issue with how you are hooking things up between modem/router/wall run than something being wrong with the ethernet runs. What wayloncovil mentions is a good way to find a line that works and just test against that so you can narrow the issue.
If you want to just have the piece of mind of knowing that ethernet wall runs do work you can get a tester for \~$10 that simply runs a pattern which lets you know it works and that all 8 wires in the cable are hooked up correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1588918795&sr=8-4

You can spend a bit more and get one that has a toner to 'tone out the line' and quickly find which is which. Probably not needed in this case unless you are at a loss for where a line goes. https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Collation-Telephone-Continuity/dp/B01HCQSHNG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1588918508&sr=8-3&swrs=59719E3193A20A799BC75AC1BD88A5AF

> The reason I believed it was wired as T568B as almost every image I've been able to find on forums or Google have T568B as Blue, Orange, Green, Brown as seen here and here. T568A seems to be always wired as Blue, Green, Orange, Brown when in a single line.

Those are punchdown panels. Whatever PCB they've got connecting them to the actual port is going to re-arrange those punchdowns into the right order. The same thing is happening on your punchdowns.

That's why those punchdowns have a label - because they aren't actually following the T568A/B spec. The ports are... But if you punched things down on the backside according to the T568A/B spec, it wouldn't work.

And blue, orange, green, brown is not the spec.

>Would a simple cable tester like this work?

Probably. I can't really speak from personal experience... But I assume that it's functional or people wouldn't be buying it. It should show you faults in the wiring, same as any other tester.

>I don't think I'll ever use half the features on the other model.

It's a pretty basic tool, actually. The major difference is that it can trace lines. This can be very helpful when you're walking into a situation where you aren't sure exactly where the wiring goes.

Maybe the label says that port 1 goes to the bedroom, but it's actually in the kitchen. Or dangling loose in the basement somewhere.

A basic cable tester like the one you linked should be able to match a wall jack to the patch panel just by testing each one... But it won't help you trace down a line that's maybe not actually going to a jack or port.

I can't say for certain what that is, but I have connected (or "punched" as it's called) Ethernet jacks before and they never look like that, leading me to believe that those are phone lines.

Now, modern digital phones (think corporate/business) can and do use actual Ethernet jacks and lines as well.

These jacks do not appear to be standard jacks for modern network communication. They are likely designed for much lower bandwidth than 100 Mbps, let alone 1000 Mbps.

If you would like to see if you can take advantage of the lines run between these jacks, the first thing you can do is disconnect that entire wall-plate and pull it out (hopefully there's at least a foot of slack in the cable so you can pull it out some) and read the writing on the cable to see what it it's rating is.

See if it's marked "CAT 5" or "CAT 5e" or something like that. That will tell you what the cable is designed to do (handle, as far as bandwidth.)

You can then look that up.

Of course, that's not a guarantee, because there are other requirements to allow a cable like that to perform correctly, such as not stapling it against boards, squishing it a lot, and not hammering it into tight 90 degree bends. Those are all things that degrade its performance.

Another thing to do is test it with a network cable tester.

EDIT: I just realized how basic the tester I linked is. It only tests whether the conductors are connected "straight through." What is really necessary to determine whether it would work well is something more like this Fluke network cable tester, which is much more expensive (more like $600.)

There are cheaper ways of doing this, I think. I remember some old network cards that you can install in your computer were capable of some basic network cable testing, through your computer, but I haven't looked into whether that can be made to do what this tool would do (effectively).

To find out more about that, search for "network cable test laptop."

(I didn't verify this, but perhaps look at what Intel network interface cards are capable of.)

Overall, though, and perhaps simplest, would be that if the cables connected to that are Cat 5e or greater, (or maybe even Cat 5), re-punch them and try plugging it through and see if it works. If it does work, buy a 50 to 150 foot cat 6 / 7 cable (online - they're ~~ridiculously~~ ~~insanely~~ ludicrously expensive in stores), connect over the same distance, then compare how well each does with an Internet speed test (several times) to determine whether it's performing well or poorly.

You need to buy (links from home depot, can order similar things online):

• RJ45/RJ11 Crimp Tool
• RJ45 Ends

You may want to go check one of the wall jacks, take it off the wall, likely it's a keystone jack, so you will need to look at how the wires are pinches into it, it should say somewhere on it 568A and 568B, figure out which one the colors correspond to, this is the pinout you will use on the other end.

Follow this video, using TIA-568A pinout or TIA-564B pinout, notice the orientation of the clip on the plastic end, it should be facing away from you.

When you are done, you can plug the end into your router or a switch and it should work. You will want to ensure it is able to negotiate up to 1000Mbps (1Gbps), so usually you can identify if that is possible by looking at the router, there is a legend that says what the light will be if it's 1000Mbps. If it doesn't show that, then likely something was wrong with your termination and you'll need to do redo it.

You could also get a cheap tester, someone linked this one above

Get yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-601K-G-Basic-Tone-Probe/dp/B0042VII5W/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=tone+kit&qid=1598402972&sr=8-3

Tone out all of the cable and see if it terminates into the same location. If its all centrally terminated (hooked up or not) then weigh the cost of the following vs paying someone to come out and do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Listed-Rackmount-Mount/dp/B0072K1OWY/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+patch+panel&qid=1598403026&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Sancable-Ethernet-Plate-Keystone-Female/dp/B07LGYFKYN/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+wall+jacks&qid=1598403037&sr=8-8 (you need one plate per room/termination location going to a PC/TV/Console)

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=rj45+punch&qid=1598403180&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ethernet+tester&qid=1598402997&sr=8-4

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The patch panel goes where all the cables source from and the wall plates go ..in the walls. You will follow the same wiring pattern on the back of the wall plate and the patch panel (A or B). Then you use the cable tester to validate they are all talking correctly. After that you need to figure out your network equipment (Switch, mounting location,...ect).