UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card with 3.5mm Headphone and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS5 (Black)

If you're using the front panel of the case, making sure that the header cables and HD Audio cable are plugged in correctly. If you're using the rear of the case, there might be issues with it on a board that old with Windows 10 if you upgraded from 7. While it's not a great solution, a OS reinstall could tease out any quirks or oddities in a build that old.

If that doesn't work, consider a cheap USB adapter to use Windows 10's native USB sound driver: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/

If this still doesn't work, I've got nothing for ya.

This is a USB audio adapter that I got for my laptop after breaking it's headphone jack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What has been previously stated is a good idea too, unplugging the front audio header from the motherboard. If you're not using it anyway, there's no use for it to be plugged in, especially if it could be causing issues with the ports on the back.

I don't have that board, but I do have an older pair of relatively high end Sennheiser in the same price range with a similar cheap board. Also open-ear headphones. I got one of those external USB audio cards. This one. There was static interference at first if the cable was in the wrong place. Probably cheap and not EM shielded. But If I keep the thing away from the other USB cables and rest of the case the audio did improve a lot. For most people the audio on the Tomahawk will be fine on cheap "Gaming" branded headphones/headsets or speakers. But on actually quality headphone brands you can hear the difference. And I'm not even an nit-picky audiophile, just regular user.

The OP-1 does not do audio over USB. You'll need a USB adapter like this if your laptop doesn't have a 3.5mm TRS compatible mic input.

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Edit: I forgot you mentioned the Apogee Duet, it has two line inputs that you could utilize, and would probably be the easiest route.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2ZHD1GYGNRX83VF5ZPW8

well, there are cheaper options as well, but it's not just an adapter, tho - it's a whole external soundcard, so it may convert digital info to sound slightly differently than the laptop's built-in - resulting in a different sound

Behringer XENYX 1002B

I have a USB audio adapter plugged into both my PC and PS4.

From there I have my audio going to separate 3.5 mm TRSF to Dual 1/4" TS Stereo Breakout Cables.

I am using a 3.5mm modmic as my microphone as it attaches to my headset and I don't have to deal with a large microphone on my desk or boom.

To get microphone input through my mixer, I have an XLR to 3.5mm converter. I have to use phantom power to get usable sound from the microphone, so I turn that on.

All microphone audio is sent through mon send. I can only have one mon send output connected at a time so I swap the cable to my PS4 of PC depending on what I'm using. I used to have a splitter do both could get audio simultaneously but I removed that to lessen the complexity while I figure out why I get noise.

I was getting horrible static on my motherboard with ALC1220 audio, which is apparently a known issue. I recently got one of these since it was cheap to try out (I only paid $9, so look around for equivalents if it's much more than that), and no drivers needed. So far it works well with the same ZM-1 mic I had before.

UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card with 3.5mm Headphone and Microphone Jack for Windows, Mac, Linux, PC, Laptops, Desktops, PS5 (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_og-.Eb70TFQZB

Bought this guy to use on my ps4 as the DualShock controller headphone jack sounded like crap. Also works perfectly well on a computer and had the additional mic jack if you want to use a microphone

I haven't tried one, but I imagine you could use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY

I'm using a usb to a headphone+mic (red&green ports) and plugging my headphones 3.5mm jack into the green one. am I getting trash audio using this converter thing? link :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've seen stuff like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0OfyFbPN854SD

But I'm not sure that's quite what you're looking for. What are you trying to do? Maybe I'm not understanding something, or maybe there's a better way.

Not sure what it would be or if dac would help. I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY

I mainly use this because it produces cleaner audio than the 3.5 audio jack.

A search on Amazon for “USB Audio Adapter” turns up devices like this.

If you want something higher-quality, I’d recommend the Creative X-Fi or Asus Xonar; they both have a model for under $100 that includes a giant volume knob.

You could also opt for something like the AudioQuest DragonFly + a Blur Yeti or similar USB microphone, if you don’t already have a microphone you like. That’s a bit more expensive, but probably better quality audio.

specifics?

Do you need a regular one or one that supplies 5V power to the mic?

One that supplies 5V power and hasn't died on me is the UGreen Audio Adapter - hopefully that'll fit your needs.

This is what I bought. I have yet to try it because I’m waiting on a guitar I ordered to get here, but I don’t know of any reason why it wouldn’t.

most likely yes, the jack is bad. I would try to clean it. What I have had success with in the past is wrapping an eyeglass wipe or an alcohol prep pad around a paperclip or something similar.

Otherwise:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/

Just look for a USB line in. This is the one I purchased to record line in audio from my POs and it works flawlessly. UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It is possible but probably not simple.

Just disassembling it to get access will take you much of the day if it is like most such notebooks.

You will probably need to take everything apart, including the entire screen assembly and unseating almost every component which is not permanently soldered, in order to get the board into a position where you can desolder the old piece. At that point you will have worked for probably 4 hours at least, taking photos at each level so that you can reassemble it, keeping ten different sizes of fastener in different cups with labels, and you have not fixed anything yet.

If you have not done much inside a notebook, do not start here. An easier way is to get a USB device which gives you a headphone jack. It will not be perfect but you likely will not notice a difference for most of your sound needs, presuming you are not using such things as ASIO for music making purposes and such. It probably will not work properly for that. I cannot say for certain though.

If you want to, reply here and describe what messed up means, regarding your jack. It may be fixable without replacement. Tell us what it does.

A USB audio adapter works perfectly fine. You can find them on amazon for pretty cheap.

Since you have a PS4 Pro its a good idea to get one with a cable to make sure it has clearance. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_hD3XEbDKFV2NQ

If the laptop has a combined headphone/mic jack, which many do, that's called a TRRS jack. You can split it out to two separate input/output jacks, called TRS, with something like this if that's helpful. With something like that and just some recording software you can even record to a cell phone and splice audio together with the video in post.

Otherwise, you can get a USB interface with separate jacks as well.

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Either option is cheap enough to pick one up and test what works for you without breaking the bank. If you need higher fidelity you might need a more expensive audio interface but it's worth a shot to try this first.

I connect this to my dock and then use this to clean up the signal, and then connect that to my PC's line in port with a male-male 3.5mm cable.

I'm using this audio adapter which solved the interference static from my motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY

Do you have the service tag? Find the model, see if any of the documentation shows it's any kind of ATX form factor or you could be in for a big disappointment.

Also, you can buy $20 USB sound "cards" that will work to keep you going on the cheap.

or get something a little fancier with more features that you could play with later on too

i bought this: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

I got the Ubisoft Rocksmith 2014 Real Tone Cable and the UGREEN USB Audio Adapter External Stereo Sound Card that someone else recommended me and everything worked out great.

I do the same thing with a cheap $10 usb soundcard I bought off Amazon. Works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

hi i need help buy a microphone

atm im looking at zingyou zy-007 and a ugreen usb audio extarnal sound card

Okay, for anyone thinking about buying this mic or having this microphone and you searched up this old post, I found a way to make it work.

This is how to do it:

What you need:

• A PC (doesn’t have to be powerfull, it just needs to run the wave link software)
• A USB sound card
• A 3.5 mm male to 3.5 mm male jack cable

How to set it up:

1: Plug the wave in to the pc via usb and run the wave link software.

2: Under the output device of your PC select the wave monitoring jack.

3: Plug the sound card in to the PS4/ console.

4: Plug one end of the cable in to the mic input of the sound card and the other in the monitoring jack of the wave microphone.

5: Under audio input on the console select ‘USB headset’. Now you can either plug your headphones in the sound card or your controller. Select the one you’ve chosen as output.

6: You’re now ready to go and everything should work as intended. You can now use all the wave link features and OBS.

Links:

• USB sound card: Sound card (I use this one as it is extended so it fits the best in to a PS4)

• Aux cable: Aux cable (This one can be about any cable you find on the internet. You might be able to find a 4-pin version instead of a 3-pin one so you can plug it directly in to your controller. I haven’t tested this so I’m not sure that this will work. And you can’t use your headphones to in that case.)

Hope this helps/ works out for you. Have a great day!

>https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1MTC1JIFTJYTN&dchild=1&keywords=3.5mm+usb+adapter&qid=1606979925&sprefix=3.5mm+usb%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-9

Do you think this would work fine i seen the pc38x dont take much power to use but im not always sure when it comes to brands i never really heard of for things

With everything going on I can't really afford to just buy a new board.

Im not doing it for anyone and just for personal enjoyment. Can I get away with buying an external one to solve my problems? Eventually I want to get a better board but just trying to work with what I have.

Would something like this help for the moment?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AKXVBT49GGF3B

you can go even cheaper, if you already have a computer holding your sound files.

i'm running Volumio from a VM pi, using a $9 usb sound card... total cost for my player was $9.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/

I don't have time to test the monitors yet, but I took a look at the audio interfaces you mentioned. They seem to be rather expensive that I might as well just purchase another monitor. But what about external usb sound cards like this or this? I don't have much experience with sound cards, but would these be better quality than the sound card within the motherboard (in terms of sound & I guess reducing audio/video delay).

Solutions: the best and cheapest solutions

1. using Audio Extractor : https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2A9YHEHCI2HMV&dchild=1&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&qid=1587534713&s=electronics&sprefix=HDMI+audio+ex%2Celectronics%2C-1&sr=1-3

2. just use an USB audio out adapter to your system. USB Audio Adapter

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_6?crid=283J6U9B8Q8B2&dchild=1&keywords=usb+audio+converter&qid=1587534847&s=electronics&sprefix=USB+audio%2Celectronics%2C199&sr=1-6

It sounds to me like the actual audio hardware died. Could have been heat related or a capacitor blew up, or whatever.

Get a cheap USB sound card with audio outputs, or a cheap PCI-Express sound card. Either one should fix it. That's a bargain-value machine, so literally anything you buy will be equal quality or better than the sound hardware in that Dell.

Those Phillips headphones you mentioned would absolutely benefit from a headphone amplifier, so I recommend getting a USB DAC with a headphone volume knob built in. It should make those headphones sound much better, according to the specs they definitely want a higher-power output than your typical PC line out.

Actually, I'm realizing it's entirely possible the low impedance / high power draw of those Phillips headphones might have caused the audio output to fail. A USB headphone amplifier is definitely the best option if you can front the $40-$70 they cost.

I see lots of headphone amp options on Amazon in the $50-ish range.

This one has treble / bass knobs, if you like that.

This one also gives a microphone input, where the others don't, but I'm not sure about the design otherwise. (How does that dual-knob power / sampling rate / whatever-lighting-bolt-means switch work? Weird.)

This one shows their circuitboard, which is definitely a good thing because you can tell they aren't cheaping out on the audio design.

Or you could get something dirt cheap, (this is $16) but something like this definitely will not drive those headphones very well. In fact most of the things that look like this will not be as high quality as the front jack on the Dell box used to be, or even the headphone jack on your phone. However, you could use the microphone input on this to get a microphone input to go with one of the nicer headphone amps that doesn't offer it.

Onboard sound, while usually reliable, can have problems. My intel NUC onboard audio constantly has static problems and I cannot upgrade it, however, there are backups.

You can try a cheap USB sound card just to test:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/

If you have a desktop, consider an alternative option, good old fashion sound card:

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X7PG

If you have a laptop:

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A

[Modular Adjacent Question]

Hey - Any tips on recording line-in video/audio to an iphone from your modular setup?

I'm using the apple camera adaptor and this USB audio dongle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY

Works fine - but it is a mono recording. I then bought this Rode adaptor, but it also records in MONO!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9N111W

Returning it, and now I've ordered this audio dongle:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBZ38ZJ

One of the reviews says it is a stereo mic input, another one just says "no stereo mix" - but I'm going to give it a shot.

I see lots of videos with good sounds quality on this channel. What are you using? Are you getting a stereo recording?

THANKS!!

Use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-4-Pole-Headset-Adapter-iPhone/dp/B01LXRN976 (plugs into the controller)

or this https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Headphone-Microphone-Desktops/dp/B01N905VOY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=WDUA4PSCFM5G&keywords=usb+headset+adapter&qid=1581705233&s=electronics&sprefix=usb+headset+adapter%2Celectronics%2C207&sr=1-5 (plugs into PS4's USB port),

plus a 3.5mm male-male cable. https://www.amazon.com/ARCHEER-Auxiliary-Headphones-Smartphone-Tablets/dp/B01MU3TY2O/ref=pd_cp_23_2/137-3270536-1863016?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MU3TY2O&pd_rd_r=f6fed78c-34be-4e4a-a0b7-f80cde1f2756&pd_rd_w=RR9J6&pd_rd_wg=JIgIm&pf_rd_p=592dc715-8438-4207-b7fa-4c7afdeb6112&pf_rd_r=S3066DZ2N57FAGJ5S78T&psc=1&refRID=S3066DZ2N57FAGJ5S78T

Or you could ask someone on the discord to record it for you.

I just recently forayed into the bass shaker realm, and it was sooo worth. Though, I think it's only worth it if you get in at a certain point. I don't think a single buttkicker gamer is worth it for instance, or even the Shakeit kit. And McG3K's setup (handy though it sounds!) is likely not communicating the sorts of frequencies at the power level that would be required for proper immersion and utility.

​

I have a 4-point bass shaker setup, at each corner of my P1X, that communicates the feedback for each tire independently. I can feel slippage and locking up instantly, and know where it's coming from. It also communicates road bumps and texture, I have shift feedback coming through the back two transducers mounted under my seat, and very slight engine rpm feedback to the front pedals. Its hard to put into words just how monumental this upgrade was for me. When you go over a bump in the road or a kerb, to feel it on the front pedals first and then it comes to the back shakers a moment after, it's increased the immersion and enjoyment for me more than I thought it would. After getting everything tuned, I can't imagine driving without it now. My rig would feel dead. But the 4-point setup specifically is I think the minimum. I wouldn't be able to get the same type of feedback and fidelity from a single-point or even two-point solution.

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Here is the parts list for everything I have:

Amp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UL0XIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shakers: https://www.parts-express.com/aurasound-ast-2b-4-pro-bass-shaker-tactile-transducer--299-028

Shaker Mounts: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-Aura-Dayton-ADX-Mount-for-Platform-Console-x-4/233669314490?hash=item3667c6c7ba:g:e2kAAOSw9GdcYoXC

Extra soundcard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I use this one for my rig speaker outputs now, with the Pyle amp using the 5.1 output from my onboard soundcard, configured for quadrophonic output, driving the bass shakers)

(2) RCA > aux: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI89NPE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (one goes from the usb soundcard to my speaker amp (Marantz), the other goes from my onboard soundcard to the Pyle sub amp)

Speaker wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078YYLT5T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1