ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor

Common 3D printing mistakes in this subreddit

Over time I've seen some recurring mistakes / misconceptions in this subreddit.

I've collected them here in an attempt to help improve the knowledgebase.:

• Using Infill to make the part stronger - Infill does not meaningfully make the part stronger. If you need strength, add perimeters (and first / last layers). The main use of infill is really as a support material for your upper layers. Rectilinear creates the most dense support structure, to the point that 5% rectilinear infill will work for almost all parts. The rule of thumb for strong parts is that you want the part to be almost hollow, with a thick shell. If you do want a strong solid plastic part, use 9999 perimeters instead of 100% infill.
• 99% Isopropyl Alcohol - Higher concentration does not clean better. When an Alcohol is not 100%, the rest is generally distilled water. Not all residues dissolve in Alcohol, so the water helps dissolve some of the residue that the Alcohol couldn't. For example, sugar doesn't dissolve well in alcohol but really well in water. Having too much water can create corrosion, so 90% concentration is considered the sweet spot.
• Bed adhesion - If you are experiencing bed adhesion problems on a clean and calibrated bed, try increasing the bed temperature (e.g. for PLA from 60 to 70). Beds are not heated evenly, so the higher temperature helps with stronger adhesion and making sure the corners of the bed are hot enough.
• Enclosure - It's very unlikely you'd need an enclosure for your printer. PLA actually prints better in colder temperature, so an enclosure created the opposite effect. Enclosure is needed for ABS, but there is very little reason to use ABS when PETG is less toxic and provides the same strength without the need for enclosure.
• Filament Storage All you need is a large sealed storage box (like this), lots of silica gels (like this) and a humidity sensor (like this). The box will dehydrate your filament over time, so no need to get a dehydrator. The sensor will tell you when you need to put your silica gels in the oven to refresh them.
• Tangled Filament It's very unlikely that the filament arrived tangled. It is rolled continuously on the spool, so unless it was packaged incorrectly, the tangles were created due to you incorrectly storing it. Also, you do not need to stop a print if you see that the filament is tangled. simply unroll a bit of filament from the spool, and untangle the filament by passing the whole spool through the "knot".
• Using the wrong flexible material - For TPU, you want the filament to be as hard as possible, and the printed object as flexible as possible. This makes it possible for you to print reliably and easily, and to adjust the flexibility by changing the amount of perimeters. The worst offender is NinjaFlex TPU, which is commonly recommended here. The filament is extremely flexible which makes it very hard to print, but the printed material is quite hard, making it the worse of both world. The best TPU that I found so far is FiberFlex 30D, just see for yourself. (I'm not affiliated with any filament brand)
• Ignoring Matte PLA - Matte PLA produce some of the nicest looking prints out there, directly out of the printer. See the comparison yourself. There are some good options with OVERTURE, SpiderMaker, and MatteForge. The main con of Matte PLA is that they tend to be more brittle, so not the best for high impact parts (unless you can add more perimeters as described above).

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Gotta get one. They’re like $10 on Amazon, you need to be aware of your temp humidity or you’re going to have a bad time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_jnxUFb81RDVJ4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Wait another day or so before handling her or taking her out to clean. Generally want to wait two days or so before holding after they eat.

Once you're ready though, you're gonna want to replace that substrate with something that holds humidity better. Coconut fiber or Zoo Med's Forest Floor are both great choices that hold humidity really well. An accurate thermometer/hydrometer is cheap and will help. Something like this can go right in the cage with the BP at substrate level for accurate readings. You want the humidity in the cage to be 50-60% normally and 60-70% while she's in shed (like now).

A pillowcase is generally fine to hold the snake in while you clean. Tie it shut and leave it close to you or have someone else watch it while you clean.

If you want to spend a little bit more, BP's like to hide and will prioritize hiding over regulating their body temperature sometimes. You might want to buy a 2nd hide to put on the cool side of the cage so that she can move between the two sides without feeling really exposed.

A dehumidifier is likely going to be essential for you, and an air conditioner will help a ton.

Get a hygrometer and a dehumidifier, and keep the humidity below 50%. Don't bag your manga if you live in a humid climate! If you can keep the humidity under 50%, your books will be fine.

good luck! and make sure you keep an eye on the humidity levels. if your humidifier doesn’t have a built in hygrometer, you can find them on amazon for super cheap. my levoit has one, but i also keep this one on the other side of my apartment to make sure those plants are happy too.

I also don’t normally plug products, but this thing has been a game changer in determining how humid my plant’s environment is!!

Analog hygrometers are never reliable. You're better off with a decent digital hygrometer like this. If the room is air conditioned you should be fine.

Just want to make sure this has everything I need? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xJxlFbQSBXD4P I'm ready to but it. Once again thanks for your help.

I bought an inexpensive digital thermometer/hygrometer to use with my indoor plants. It displays the high and low temperatures and humidity levels since the last power reset (it runs on batteries). You might want to consider something like this for your attic.

As for cutting off all pitchers during dormancy, I see no reason to cut off healthy plant tissue, even if the light levels are low.

I use this

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=temp+humidity+monitor&qid=1607702591&sprefix=temp+hum&sr=8-3

You can order other things it just takes a bit longer, stuff I needed to order for my new tank all took less than a week. This thermostat only took a few days.

Get a temp and humidity gauge like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iwfuFbSD9VW62

And just keep an eye on it. If the humidity gets too high get a dehumidifier. Vice versa. You may end up having to purchase both a humidifier and dehumidifier for use depending on the time of year or weather.

probably a good idea to monitor your house, it could be contributing to breathing issues

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68

I had to buy a thermometer to stop second guessing myself about hot or cold. My kid sleeps best at 72-74 degrees F in a long sleeve onesie and a sleep sack. But I’ve heard the sweet spot is 68-72. This is the one I have: ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9SusFb772EJC1

4 feeds is on the lower end of the spectrum for that age, most are at 4-6 at six months. You can try fitting 1-2 more feeds in during the day to see if that helps tank her up for nights. How many wet diapers a day? And Is she breast or bottle fed? If bottle, how many ounces total does she take in during the day?

When she wakes up, what do you try to do to soothe in the 30 mins between wake up and feed?

This is a really tough one, all my normal answers aren’t quite cutting it. But we’ll get there!

I bought this one off of Amazon:

ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer Indoor Thermometer Room Thermometer and Humidity Gauge with Temperature Humidity Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dw84EbNP8BACV

The only “problem” is that it can easily get knocked over, so you want to make sure it’s leaning on something.

Before trying again get one https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=themomitor+and+humidity&qid=1598638016&sr=8-2

You want at least 60% humidity.

What temp is your fridge at? The closer the temperature to freezing the longer the process takes. 36°F (2.2°C) is the sweet spot for me personally. If that is the fat cap side, flip it over. That's the side you want on the bottom. You won't see pelicle formation on this side at all really. The dry, outer crust (pelicle) will be visible on the meat side. I would also highly recommend a small fan, thermometer, and hygrometer if you don't have these in your fridge yet. I use a thermometer/hygrometer combo like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ThermoPro+TP50+Digital+Hygrometer+Indoor+Thermometer+Room+Thermometer+and+Humidity+Gauge+with+Temperature+Humidity+Monitor&qid=1590516776&sr=8-1 It averages out the temp and humidity to give you a more accurate reading which is cool.

Here’s the link (:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_0Da6EbAYQNX7C

Absolutely not. I tray water and have problems with powdery mildew as it is. If you have several violets which are regularly watered and keep them in close quarters your humidity should be fine. Also you should really just get one of these if you're serious enough about your collection to care about humidity.

Sure!

When you start using the humidifier, make sure that your plants have good airflow and aren't cramped too tightly together. Definitely get something like this temperature and humidity guage as well. It has been super helpful for me.

When the temperature is cooler, the air cannot hold as much moisture. That makes for an ideal environment for fungal infections and mold (I learned this lesson the hard way). Since my windows are small and my LED grow lights don't generate much warmth, I find that 60-65%'ish is a good upper range for my room. Every room is different, of course. Leaving the ceiling fan on the slowest setting has helped keep the air circulating.

I also get better results from running the humidifier during the daytime only. Plants "breathe" and absorb moisture through stomata on the surface of their leaves. These stomata open during the day and close at night (except for cacti, whose schedule is reversed). So at night, extra humidity in the air isn't really available for their absorbtion anyway, it just combines with lower nighttime temperature to invite yucky infections.

Happy to help!

A terrarium should work, anything that will give it more humidity will probably help immensely. Putting more plants around it can also help raise the local humidity.

This is the hygrometer/thermometer combo I use, I have several of these throughout the house. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is likely to be a problem with the environment. Consider using an inexpensive hygrometer to measure the ambient humidity, and a room humidifier to raise it to an acceptable range if needed. Typically, this should be around 50%. The printer, consumables, and paper might a day or two to fully adjust to the change. Also, try "fanning" your paper before loading it into the printer.

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/

I like to nerd out to winter temps and I'll bring this: thermometer

Its not the lightest thing ever, but I dont mind it in winter.

A unique one. I built my own box and lined it with reflective foil insulation, then just covered it with heavy blankets. It was way too big, really. Had a good three or so feet worth of internal space.

I heated it with just a pair of super-cheap fluorescent light-bulbs from a local Walmart equivalent connected to a thermostat my mother used for regulating the temperature in her greenhouse. This is the thermometer/humidity monitor I used to make sure the thermostat was working correctly.

The key is to buy the bulbs with the worst energy efficiency possible. That just means they generate a ton of waste heat, which is precisely what you need. You don't have to worry about putting in too many; if the thermostat they're connected to works, they'll only ever be on during necessary heating periods.

I think the most important thing I did was keeping the humidity low till the end. A lot of people have told me stories about getting great egg development right up till the point the chick pierces the air sack... at which point 90% immediately drowned due to moisture buildup on the interior of the eggshell. Now that doesn't mean a 'normal' high-humidity incubation can't work, but from my attempt, it's just easier to only bother with humidity above 30% during 'lockdown', aka the last 3-4 days of incubation.

As for plans, just google 'DIY egg incubator'. I incubated both Guinea fowl and quail eggs at the same time. They both had nearly identical yields, proportionately, the guineas were just awkward and decided to hatch early, so I had a brief panic. Didn't affect the yield of the quail eggs, though. They either gestated perfectly or never even started developing. Maybe 1 'in-between' that might've started developing then died, but that was it.

Has anyone tried this thermometer? I have been using this one but it'd be nice if I can collect data for the entire trip. It seems like it's designed to be used indoor but the specs show that it can handle outdoor use as well.

I've never heard of rocks in the pot for lowering humidty so i can't speak on that. You might be thinking of drainage. Get yourself a cheap thermometer and humidity reader with a high and low trackers. Keep track of your highs, you don't want it reaching over 60% RH during mid/late flower.

https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=garden+thermometer&qid=1597863524&sr=8-8

Humidity spikes will happen when the lights turn off and the temperature drops and the air can't hold as much humididty. You can mitigate it with ventilation timed right or a dehumdifier.

High humidity is only a issue in the flowering stage, so you'll have time in veg to get used to your enviroment and dial it in.

The rick simpson subreddit doesn't have alot of stuff going on usually, but there are alot of great grow reddits.

I like /r/herbgrow

/r/microgrowery

the no till and organic indoors reddits are solid too, but are more specifically growing soil/organic if you choose to go that route.

Seconded! I keep the humidity in my office (where I spend the most time) around at least 65%, which is pretty wet for most people but helps my ARCI a lot. I have a humidity monitor in nearly every room of my apartment, as well.

Humidity Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_toQQFbAGX35YM

Humidifier Options (I use the Honeywell): https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/the-best-humidifier/

Also, OP, it's worth recommending that you try other lotions and regimens as well. Keep a journal of what works and doesn't work. If you go stalk me on reddit you'll find I've done some longer posts on what I do for my routine recently, you can check those out if you want some ideas.

Feel free to PM me or reply to this if you need help/suggestions. I have fairly severe scaling covering my entire body (lamellar ichthyosis, a type of ARCI) and have developed a routine through trial and error, so I've got a bunch of random tips to try if you need. I also have great tips on keeping up with a routine while living with depression and ADHD, as well as other chronic health conditions.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_aPGvEbM8RV5QQ

I use this in all of our data closets and server rooms

https://proteussensor.com/wireless-wifi-temperature-sensor.html

its not an app but a website. it texts you with alerts and can send emails. its free and so far we are a year in with it and no issues. Its accurate to our in room wall sensor https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Storage box+Desiccant

I pour out about half the bottle into a shallow container for easy swapping, and change it out whenever it starts to turn green.

Optional but recommended humidity monitor.

I see a lot of people using the full size ones that they just stand up somewhere on either end of the viv; here's an example.

I prefer to use the ones with probes and external display units, as I like to hide cables and whatnot for the most natural look possible. The Zoo Med Digital Thermometer Humidity Gauge is a good one, and the one I'll be using.

It is the building drying out. Actually new buildings are so tight that the problem doesn't fully go away. I'm in the 2nd year of a new building apartment and it is better than last year but still bad compared to the 100+ year old house I owned. Buildings are now built so tight that the moisture can't escape, in MN they require air to air or bathroom fans that run all the time to pull in outside air to solve the problem.

Get a https://www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Humidity+Sensor&qid=1608998751&sr=8-5

You can see the humidity level and know your within the right range for both comfort/condensation (http://flooring-inspectors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/humidity_chart.png).

My building is still running a consistent 50-60%, so would either have to run a dehumidifier or crack some windows again like I did last year.

This entire set, used for two grows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F6BI1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XIMAFb67W52JP

And an extra one of the timers that comes in that set

This entire set, again used for two grows. But I tossed the ducting out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8RMSJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cKMAFb5XZ9YW8

One of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vLMAFbVB1RS80 still in the box. Bought two, only ever used one

Brand new Fiskars (small ones) that I intended on using on the next harvest. Literally never used

And a 6" Vivosun clip on oscillating fan still in the box I was going to use on the next harvest

I use a hygrometer to monitor the humidity and temps but other than that nothing else.

I have this for lighting.

And this for powering it and my raspberry pi running octoprint.

The degree of 'unfinished' is going to make a big difference on the level of dust/moisture and whether you're going to want to spend much time down there. Is the floor concrete? Are the walls original brick or have they been parged? Is there a crawlspace, and if so is it dirt or has it been cemented? Do you see any signs of moisture on the walls or on the floor joists (particularly where they meet the wall)? The more dirt, moisture, and exposed brick in the basement, the more issues you're going to have with dust and mold. Depending on the condition of the basement you could be fine setting up a home gym, but on other hand it may be more work than its worth particularly if you're a renter.

Assuming you still want to setup the gym and have concrete floors, parged walls, no apparent moisture issues, I would pickup a hygrometer to measure the humidity in the basement. Generally you want a humidity level of 30-50%, and if its higher you should consider picking up a dehumidifier. I would also consider buying an air purifier to help cut down on the dust. PECO has $50 rebates on both dehumidifiers and air purifiers that are energy star certified- just search through their website to make sure you purchase an eligible model.

For bugs, I wouldn't waste your time or money spraying unless you know you have a specific issue. If you insist on doing it anyway, make sure you have proper ventilation in the basement.

Finally as u/sailbag36 pointed out you could ditch the box spring and pickup a platform bed. I find having the mattress on slats just as comfortable and much easier to manage when you need to move.

For anyone that has questions about the set up

Tent

OPULENT SYSTEMS 32"x32"x64"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JNK6NRH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Lights

Two YGROW 600W LED Grow Light Full... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078XHHVKZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Carbon filter

VIVOHOME 4 Inch 188 CFM Inline... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XB47LG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Humidifier (for seedlings and early veg)

Vicks Filter-Free Ultrasonic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F8MJXMG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Dehumidifier (currently running now for flower)

hysure Dehumidifier,700ml Compact... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MC7XVY3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Humidity controller

WILLHI WH1436H 110V Digital Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077FPTWLY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hygrometer

ThermoPro TP50 Digital Hygrometer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1R0K68?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

TL;DR: Kit runs $137, retail of the parts is around $127 and MWGK's guides are solidly worth more than $10. They are a million times less confusing than the various online teks I've read. The rest to get into a more automated flow is \~$140 and easy to add on to the kit. From there you'll have both the basis and experience to cookie cutter replicate.

​

Price Break Down of All the Things (not the exact items, just closest comparable I could find):

Included (\~$127 pieced out retail):

Tub ($12/3=$4 @ Costco)

Skin Pore Tape ($4 - but this is enough for 270 tubs)

www.amazon.com/3M-Transpore-Clear-Plastic-Yards/dp/B010OUP208/

Temperature / Humidity Gage ($11)

www.amazon.com/ThermoPro-TP50-Digital-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B01H1R0K68/

Humidifier Jar (clay media is $5/bag at Ikea, Jars are sold by the case at walmart or just reuse any cleaned jar, and polyfill is a few bucks at any craft store - ie. close to negligible)

Aquarium Pump ($6 - This is being junked along with the jar)

www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YJ4N6/

Heat mat ($12)

www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Waterproof-Seedling-Hydroponic-Standard/dp/B00P7U259C/

Perlite 2 Gallons / 8 Quarts ($12)

www.amazon.com/Quarts-xGarden-Horticultural-Premium-Perlite/dp/B01LZDOLRI/

Grow light ($16)

www.amazon.com/Miracle-Almost-Energy-Growth-Starter/dp/B075G12N7H/

Light cord and socket ($7)

www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFYVW7O/

Timer switch ($6)

www.amazon.com/GE-Polarized-Interval-Appliances-15119/dp/B00P76URH8/

BRF Jars ($53 - MWGK lists these at $35/12 plus whatever shipping is - amazon varies wildly, but they use self healing seals and filter discs rather than the dry vermiculite that MWGK didn't do on mine either) - This is the shortcut to not learning and getting all the stuff for jar prep. If I get more, I will use the (IMO far superior) design with the rubber seals and filter discs. I attribute the one moldy jar to the dice roll of the open unprotected design.

Added:

Tub ($12/3=$4 @ Costco)

18x48x6' NSF Wire rack ($80 @ Costco)

Temperature regulator ($30 +$5 if bought solo)

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011296704/

Humidity Regulator ($40 +2 if bought solo)

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J1E5LWM/

​

Replaced:

Humidifier ($70)

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V39ZYJB/

​

I'm still bungling my way through this, but being a process engineer irl, I do plan on writing a noob tek to try to idiot proof this for the next guy.

Okay, awesome! So here's my thoughts then:

Those two morphs are fairly cheap on their own, about $80-150, primarily because they're usually part of designer morphs - snakes that are "just cinnamon" or "just ghost" both tend to be the less desirable offspring for people making more complicated combos. Cinnamon's one of my favorite morphs as well, so you have good taste IMO. We're going to be pessimistic, so we'll use the higher number of $150. If you can't find a snake locally, keep in mind that shipping will be an additional $30-60, but I'm not going to factor that in here. Here's a link to Morph Market for Ghost BPs and for Cinnamon BPs ordered cheapest to most expensive, with all the normal "problem genes" like Spider removed so you can get a feel for cost. If you do buy through Morph Market, make sure to research your seller before purchase.

Running cost: $150

We also want to assume that the snake will get a vet appointment and need either tests or treatment. While I've only ever had to do wellness checks and never treatment for my BPs, I have a friend who breeds corn snakes and gave me a quite for the usual cost of treatment of things like scale rot and RIs. I've also had to treat for mites before and I like to get fecals done just on general principle. So, while prices may vary greatly depending on area, in my region of the US a pessimistic "The snake needs treatment for mites and a minor RI/other illness" quote is about $75. This is your checkup and the cost of effective treatment (though again, my region is cheap and my local reptile vet is really really good).

Running cost: $225

For your remaining budget, I'm going to give you estimates for the cheapest humane/adequate option. It's not quite what I'm using necessarily, but it's close to what I'm using for my "ugly" enclosure. This is for a "bin" type enclosure.

The bin itself - You want something with enough latches to hold the top of the bin very securely. This size bin (100 quart, about 25 gallons) should be able to humanely hold all but the largest of specimens, however you ideally would like larger. The current Amazon price is $32, but I bought one very similar from Lowes/Home Depot for $20. We'll still go with $32 though.

Running cost: $257

Thermostat - There are cheaper thermostats out there, but their quality is questionable. Everyone I've talked to thinks this is the cheapest option worth trusting with your pet's health. $40.

Running cost: $297

In-tank Thermometer/Hydrometer - This is, admittedly, not your cheapest option. But notice how it has a recorder for the highest and lowest temperature and humidity hit in the past 24 hours? That's REALLY useful. You might consider getting a two pack so you can keep one on the hot end of the tank and one on the cool end. $16

Running cost: $313

Infrared Thermometer Gun - The one I like is not available and everything else on the online market right now is market up ridiculously or not of a quality I would trust. This should cost you between $20-40 normally. I'll can it $26 since that's what I spent on the one I currently use.

Running cost: $339

Heat source - For a bin set up, you're probably going to use a heating pad. This is not ideal, but it's the only option that's really safe for this kind of set up. I find the ones sold for reptiles are often undersized, so for a 25 gallon bin like I linked you I would actually use a 40-60 gallon sized heat mat. You want it to take up roughly 1/3 of the enclosure floor. Also remember - Heat source goes OUTSIDE the enclosure, Thermostat goes INSIDE the enclosure. $30.

Running cost: $369

Reptisafe - for one snake, this little bottle should last you a year or two. $6

Running cost: $375

Food - Food cost will depend on the size of the snake when you get it. A good starting point is to factor $2-4 dollars per feeding with rodents and one feeding per week for young snakes. That said, day old chicks are a perfectly acceptable feeder for adult males and are only 25-50 cents each. If you feed chicks, I would also make sure to feed rodents as well, as rodents are more readily available and have withstood the trail of time for BP husbandry. Meanwhile, African Soft Fur rats can be upwards of $5 each, sometimes even $10 each. Generally speaking though, $10 ought to get you a month's worth of food for a BP. Especially a pet BP, as they can be fed less frequently than breeders.

Running cost: $385

For substrate, you have a ton of options available to you, but here's the thing: It's a cost that you probably shouldn't worry about for the first \~month of having your snake. For that first month, your snake should be in "quarantine" conditions. My recommendation for substrate during this time is paper towels, which we're going to assume you already have. A note on paper towel substrates, however - While using them, you will have to make sure to supply a humid hide to help with shedding. Eventually, you're going to want to switch to something more like a soil mix or coconut husk. Similarly, you might use cardboard boxes for hides during the quarantine period, but only for the quarantine period as once you get real substrate they will rot too quickly and be a health hazard for your snake. Throw and temporary cardboard hides away if they molder or are soiled.

What you have left to buy now is a Water Dish, Hides, and Clutter/Enrichment/Decorations. You also have $15 left to do that with! Stressful, but certainly doable. My recommendation is to check out your local dollar stores and thrift shops for usable items.

Here's a few YouTube videos I recommend:

Snake discovery Bin Setup for Ball Python - In my opinion this is not a perfect set up for a BP, but it's a good basic video.

Go Herping Ball Python Care - This guy has a little controversial regarding his BP care, but for the most part I think he does a decent job. Also this care guide is likely a bit outdated, and one of the reasons I like him in general is that he actually does post videos updating his standards of care relatively often.

Snake Discovery on Humid Hides - If you need any help with humid hides.

Snake Discovery on Budget Hides - So long as it's opaque, the right size, and non hazardous you can really use it as a hide.

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Congrats mama! I don't know anything about pregnancy-related dryness, but I am a 30-something with dry skin living in the desert, so hydrating is my daily goal! I've got a pretty solid routine that keeps my skin looking and feeling plump, moisturized, and youthful. Here's what I'd suggest:

1. Start layering hydrating toners/essences after cleansing. Some of my faves include Heritage Store Rosewater Facial Toner, Klairs Supple Preparation Facial Toner, Kikumasamune Sake High Moisture Lotion and Laneige Cream Skin (a 2-in-1 toner/moisturizer). I pour a nickel-size amount into my hands and pat on my face, applying 3-4 layers or until my face feels adequately hydrated. The Laneige and Kikumasamune toner can get tacky with more layers, but this isn't an issue once I'm done with my routine.
2. After toners, I apply hydrating serums like The Ordinary's Amino Acid + B5 (it's thin but super hydrating!), hyaluronic acid, and polyglutamic acid. If I want to pack in more moisture, I'll follow up with a Laneige Water Bank Skin Essence.
3. Apply an oil serum (I use The Ordinary's B-Oil) before using a moisturizer for dry skin. I really like Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream (the formula apparently changed recently, hence the low reviews, but I find it very rich and hydrating). If you want something similar at a lower price point, try Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel Cream for Extra Dry Skin (make sure it says "Extra Dry Skin").
4. If you want to skip the oil serum, you can seal the moisturizer with oil. If the blend you're using isn't cutting it, I love Drunk Elephant's Marula oil (it's pretty pricey but Acure has a cheaper one), Kora Organics Noni Glow, and even Aura Cacia Rose Absolute in Jojoba Oil.
5. Get a humidifier and run it in your bedroom while you sleep! I use a hygrometer to measure the humidity in the room and aim to stay between 40-44%. You may want to experiment with this in your home. 60% relative humidity is the ideal humidity to prevent dry skin but isn't practical in the home (my windows get foggy at 45%).

Keep us posted and feel free to DM with questions! :-)