Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used that. Worked fine, highly rated, and super easy to put on.

Since you have already open it up, you need to change the thermal paste this should be a fine one

First way too much. Second what brand? That looks very shiny and if it's conductive you probably will or may already have killed your system.

Edit: This is what I use on my PC and if I were to replace the paste on a console I would use it there as well. It's more expensive than other brands but worth it.

I placed a link below for the thermal paste, it’s only like 10 dollars and literally night and day difference, I managed to undervolt the CPU to about -0.170 . I tried -0.180 but the CPU just couldn’t anymore. I also adjusted the the GPU frequency curve to about 1.55Ghz which is the max I could do for a RTX 2070 max q, which is about 250MHz+ nvidia says it does on boost. Every game is on ultra for me and runs like butter while still maintaining less then 75c on the CPU and 68c for the GPU

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ANHOEbGWZJ13K

I can recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU it has been 4 months without the fan noise since I changed the thermal paste

anyone experience fake batches of thermal grizzly on amazon?

was looking to buy one from amazon but was nervous if it was a bad batch or fake

Most AIO's have their own pre-applied paste on the pump. Also, Some of the aftermarket air coolers come with their own bit of thermal paste to be manuelly applied. I recommend using this paste though Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. Ive purchased AIO's and/or Air Coolers and have wiped off their pre-applied paste in lieu of thermal grizzly. I have seen better temps.

> I guess as multiple of you have suggested I should replace thermal paste. But that is quite a bit trickier than cleaning but I guess I'll do it sooner or later. Thanks.

There are extremely easy to follow tear downs and youtube videos on how to do it. Go for it, and you'll be happy.

I used this. Best decision ever.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermal+grizzly+kryonaut&qid=1580596377&sprefix=Thermal+g&sr=8-3

Well I assume taking the card apart may void the warranty, but I’m not sure it has any tamper stickers.

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cx2SEbFJCGVG3

This one?

I was getting about 7400 total score 8000 graphics with an 8th gen i7 and 2080max-q. I recently reposted the thermals and improved on that a good bit. Didn’t note the numbers though. At that point I was focused more on CPU temps which were excessive before. I was hitting 100C in most games. The old paste was not done well by Razer. After repaste Max was around 90. I did not use liquid metal. I used this;

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste - 1.0 Gram https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_OKH27kZTsKqq6

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bR3aFbH09JHFG

Kryonaut

Try this then

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_8XvUEbTRZPJ0H

Go on YouTube and watch couple gamer Nexus vids on how to do that if your not sure if u don't have any thermal paste get https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste+kryonaut&qid=1585269030&sprefix=thermal+paste+k&sr=8-3

Different bioses apply different voltages. You didn't answer for the fact that different chips have different bins. Yes bioses especially buggy early ones do affect temps as distributed voltage can be different and again everyone's chip runs differently and absolutely can explain temps just scroll down below to different comments. Some motherboards also apply more or less voltage to said chips. Some 5900xs don't even hit 5 ghz nor do they run cool. And I don't understand your paste comment when you can buy it directly from thermal grizzly themselves from Amazon and even then paste is less than 10c difference at most and even then kryonaught has been proven to be among the best. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_hPP5FbSWQKW60 .

Obviously I don’t keep old finished kryonaut but it was always looks like this,

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

But I just got new kryonaut on the mail and it looks like the picture. This one does looks like more authentic with the certificate of origin which the code checks out too.

And this new one seems easier to apply too not so rubbery.

I think it does but I’m picking g up some more Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste - 1.0 Gram https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6.SlEbWT3J9C2 I used it on my 3d printer when it started having issues with thermals on the hot end, and it’s been a dream since.

If you have a thinner gaming laptop with an intel processor, that's completely normal, but it doesn't mean its good. Its just that Intel's chips run so hot you would need a desktop-grade cooler to cool the mobile chips. If you want a slight improvement, I suggest getting this stuff and taking the laptop apart and replacing the thermal paste with that. That should definitely help quite a bit

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

?????

If you don't have 10 bucks for thermal paste i doubt you're in the area to really need it.

Cost $10 to try.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

No need for any specific paste, just as long as you clean most of the old paste off.

There are loads of different pastes out there, the actual temperature differences between them are usually quite small.

One of the good oldies is MX-4

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Micro-particles-Durability/dp/B0795DP124

One of the new manufacturers is Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

Well of course the thermal paste can make a difference. Or else there wouldn't be so many comparisons, tests etc. In some case the difference can be a good 5 degrees or more.

The Kryonaut is one of the best in the market:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

lol it's cool. They are pretty scummy.

I'd rather go without a piece of hardware, instead of giving them a single dime.

Not sure what compound you have, but this stuff is insanely awesome:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

You have to be careful with it though because it IS conductive. So if you spill it on a part of the motherboard, it has to be cleaned completely up first.

But man I'll tell ya, the heat transfer amount for this stuff is just godlike. Easily dropped my CPU by 6-10C on load.

Thermal paste you could go for high end like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and you don't need to replace the pads unless you tear them while opening it up. However if you do you could probably use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074K55CWF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kryonaut is the best paste. Noctua NT-H1 is almost as good and it's cheaper per gram but you have to buy a larger tube.

This happens with time, for sure. I actually was redoing the paste on my desktop because the fan was running to loud around the time I bought my Lemur Pro, so I went ahead and put a little bit of the good thermal paste on it even though I hadn't owned it for a month yet, and it made it noticeably quieter for day to day tasks.

For this last round of paste I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&fpw=alm. There will be good documentation on how to do this on System76's support page.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

These do...

ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound Paste For Coolers | Heat Sink Paste | Composed of Carbon Micro-particles | Easy to Apply | High Durability - 4 Grams https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0795DP124/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-HqhFbBP8304F

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NIqhFbDWG08NF

Like others have recommended, replace the thermal paste and blow out any dust. This Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste is the best on the market.

Basically the only other thing you can do is swap the SSD out for a larger capacity M.2 SATA drive with this adapter. OWC also makes direct replacement SSDs if you wanna spend a little more.

Yeah, Discord is VERY CPU intensive, so a game that is also heavy on CPU can cause issues. I'd recommend getting a high quality thermal paste, and a better CPU cooler (affordable | premium).

Lemme know later on when you can try low settings as a stopgap until you can get those CPU temps down. I'd also suggest you try unplugging additional monitors to see if that has a positive effect. Not ideal, but in my experience, it CAN help. Additionally, you can try turning off (or on) Discord's hardware acceleration setting in the Appearance Settings.

EDIT: One last thought. You might want to try undervolting or overclocking your CPU and/or GPU to eke a bit more performance out of them. Undervolting is where you tell a device to use less voltage for the same speed, thus achieving cooler temperatures, as their draw power is usually overkill for a given clock speed. The potential risk is in causing instability, which can cause BSODs or graphical glitches. Luckily, undervolting utilities, used properly, will automatically revert settings that don't work. Careful iterative, trial-and-error testing can get you solid results with minimal risks. The opposite of undervolting is overclocking, where you increase clock speed and sometimes even increase voltage, allowing you to get substantially more performance out of a device at the cost of significantly more heat output. I would suggest looking up guides to decide if you want to try either of these approaches, but I would probably wait on overclocking until you get your thermals under control. Applications for CPU tweaking are ThrottleStop and Intel XTU, and for GPU tweaking you can use MSI Afterburner.

make sure to replace all the thermal pads too, not sure if that video covers it or not... it looks different than my pro did in that video, and i didn’t see him replacing those in this video.

I think this video was the best one i found... but i didn’t find it until after I was already done :(

https://youtu.be/X73AOtqdhgo

Here are the links to what i bought to do it...

Paste: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pads: Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 Thermal Pad, 120 × 20 × 1.0 mm, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZJSBRE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KS1wFb3DNRRP1

Okay, I’d suggest a repaste of your thermal compound. I just did that to my Helios 300 and temps went from upper 90s to 71 max on AAA titles...

I used ThermalGrizzly Conductonaut liquid metal. Their Kryonaut paste is only about 1-2° worse, and it is NOT electrically conductive, so no need to worry about LM spilling every where and shorting things out. If you do decide to go with LM, I’d suggest to use conformal coating on the CPU and GPU packages around the dye to prevent shorting out your chips.

I’m not sure about the internals of an Alienware, but if the CPU and GPU share a heat pipe (cooling systems are connected), you need to repaste both processors... I’d suggest against replacing thermal pads on VRAM or VRMs because they might be different thicknesses.

Also: Be sure to clean your fans when you’re inside...

Yes. This will help a lot if opening more than 1-2 websites at time. Using MS Office or any design/video/audio software.

Dead simple

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+RAM+Replacement/10374

If you have time and some basic skills also highly recommend to replace thermal paste. And general cleanup.

This will help a lot

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Logic+Board+Replacement/10369

Recommended thermal paste

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste - 1.0 Gram https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3h5mEbF50ESRR

You could get everything you need to build for $25, or even less if you didn't use an ESD wrist strap or expensive thermal paste. But again, I don't know what the premium is for a micro center build PC, but I'm sure it's a good deal more than $25 odd dollars.

I'd recommend this ESD wrist strap, these zip ties, and this thermal pase which is some of the best on the market. As for the screwdriver, any old thing will do.

$1000 Portable Gaming PC with Peripherals -- Video Card focused budget build

Hello all,

​

I've been kicking around a lot of ideas in my head. I'm currently limping through with a HP Omen 15-ax033dx with a killer upgrade of 16 GB of RAM and a 1 TB SSD, as well as having repasted the CPU and GPU. This beast of a laptop packs a punch with a GTX 960M, which limps along around 30 FPS on Medium settings in DOOM Eternal. If I'm killing enemies, you know, it tries to go back up to 30 FPS. But I'm about half way through the game, and I love it.

​

Anyway, I'm looking to build a portable PC, either a Mini-ITX or Cooler Master HAF XB, because I need that kind of portability. I am currently debating between three different builds, all of which are a few dollars over $1000, which is fine, and all parts must come from Amazon because reasons. I am OK with a 1600AF, as all 4 of these builds feature that processor as a custom part, because PCPartPicker hates me or I suck using it in selecting that processor.

​

This build is going to be used for gaming only: I'll keep my laptop for other general purposes and move my games off of it. I play DOOM, DOOM Eternal, BF 1/3/4/H, NFS, Fallout 3/NV, Metro, ARMA, Brutal DOOM, etc. I would like another hard drive as a redundancy, however, technically, the budget does not allow it at this time. Squeezing 16 GB of RAM into the $1,000 budget would be nice, regardless of the RAM speed, however, I don't think it's possible at this point and I would prefer a larger hard drive rather than more RAM. Furthermore, I am sticking to the PSU tier list here and am looking to stay at Tier B or better, and am looking to stay at Bronze efficiency or better.

​

I like the sexy factor of the mini-ITX, it's playful and portable and fun; however, it's definitely gimped in raw power of the video card because the case and mobo are more expensive than the Cooler Master eyesore. The video card represents \~44% of each of the cube builds (not including monitor, mouse and keyboard), and \~31% of the first mini-ITX build, and \~37.5% of the second mini-ITX build. Below are the builds I've come up with:

​

Edit: $1000 Cube -- Literally at $1010 with taxes. Changed it around, this is the preferred #1 build now. Mini-ITX just got shit on. Thermaltake V21 with wifi, 8GB Patriot 3000 CL16, 500gb NVMe, MSI 5700 Mech OC; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard. Even the CM blight will have to take a back seat to this.

​

$1000 Cube 1.1 -- $3 under the former build, with a B450 Micro itx, 8 GB patriot 3000 CL16, but still the same video card, 256gb nvme; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard.

​

Mini ITX version -- features an MSI Gaming Plus B450i so it has Wifi , Sapphire Pulse 5500 XT (144hz monitor = overkill?), 8gb GSkill 3200 CL16, 256gb nvme; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard.

​

Mini ITX 1.1 -- $1000 with a 5600 XT, A320 mobo, 8gb patriot 3000 CL16, 256gb nvme; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard.

Indeed, it was a long process, though, and to be 100% honest with you I don't feel like typing a long response at the moment, so I will summarize.

• Reinstalled windows 10 using a bootable flash drive and deleted every disk fragment, basically cleaning the entire laptop
• Made sure all drivers were up-to-date before doing anything else after reinstalling OS
• Side note: My fingerprint sensor doesn't work anymore, anyone know why? Already reinstalled Goodex or whatever drivers - still no luck :/
• Opened up laptop, unplugged battery, then:
• Used pressurized air cans to clean out fans and general dust, honestly wasn't too bad, though
• Then, removed the heat sink to expose the gpu and cpu
  • Cleaned off old thermal paste and removed all old thermal pads
  • Repasted using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  • Put thermal pads where stock ones were, as well as on top of all VRM's stacked to the case (3 layers) using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTMNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend buying at least two) referencing this article's pictures https://www.ultrabookreview.com/14875-fix-throttling-xps-15/
• Closed up laptop after plugging the battery back in and making sure screws weren't too tight (others have reported that tightening the 5 screws surrounding the heat sink can cause problems)
• Checked temperatures, and compared to before OS reinstall and hardware thermal changes, package temp was down by approx. 20 (yes, 20) degrees celcius from an idle of 60-62 down to an idle of 40-43
• Downloaded throttlestop, undervolted and adjusted turbo speeds, messed around with TPL settings, etc - resulted in another 4 degrees celcius idle decrease
• Changed power plan from Dell's default to High Performance and made some minor quality of life adjustments such as sleep/wake patterns - not much was changed regarding processor performance if I recall correct
• Changed nvidia control panel settings to use the nvidia card for physx, and auto-select for 3d settings, then one-by-one set game .exe files to run using only the nvidia gpu and optimized for performance

Benchmarks before any changes (did not use Vsync on any):

• GTA V: 40-45 FPS inconsistent
• 80-95 degrees C
• Minecraft high settings: 100-150 FPS inconsistent
• 80-85 degrees C
• Fortnite medium settings: 50-55 FPS inconsistent
• 90-95 degrees C
• Valorant high settings: 40-60 FPS inconsistent
• 80-90 degrees C
• CSGO high settings: 40-60 FPS inconsistent
• 80-85 degrees C

Benchmarks after all changes:

• GTA V (with higher settings than before): 60-90 FPS
• 70-75 degrees C
• Minecraft high settings: 200-300 FPS inconsistent but smooth, no hitches
• 55-60 degrees C
• Fortnite (with higher settings than before): 80-90 FPS
• 70-80 degrees C, mostly 73 with weird spikes to 80
• Valorant max settings: 200+ FPS, but turned on Vsync because of 60hz monitor
• Fairly static 70 degrees C
• CSGO max settings: 200+ FPS, but turned on Vsync because of 60hz monitor
• 65-72ish degrees C

Took several days to perfect, but damn was it worth it. However, paying $2,000 for a laptop should not require me to become so educated on PC optimization, hardware performance, etc. It's honestly ridiculous.

If you're running multiple 4k monitors I do recommend a 2080ti. Here's a list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qXxp3t The psu is still of good quality and has decent capacity because I wasn't sure how much power you needed for you other tower since you had a 1000W in it already.

Also, here's some thermal grizzly: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_4?crid=7LI547AHQ2MK&keywords=thermal+grizzly+kryonaut&qid=1578792591&s=electronics&sprefix=thermal+grizzl%2Celectronics%2C167&sr=1-4

My guess would be you need some new thermal paste. another option is to go into your bios and turn your fan control off and have them run at max speed whenever it's on. If you do go the route of thermal paste, then I'd say you should get some thermal Grizzly brand paste. Two good options would be:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1B853GT1A41VU&dchild=1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+kryonaut&qid=1592248169&sprefix=thermal+grizzly%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-2

or:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3PXZTBKFD8U5W&dchild=1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+conductonaut&qid=1592248205&sprefix=thermal+grizzly+con%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-2

Yeah of course, I went for Arctic MX-4, it depends on what you can get you hand on, i wouldn’t recommend graphite pads for a laptop.You also mentioned that you have your laptop for 3 weeks thus you shouldn’t worry about changing,the paste for like a year.

Anyway, here is a list of good thermal compounds: •Arctic Silver 5 •Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut •Noctua NT-H1

Typically for laptops, the most effective method is to reapply thermal paste on the CPU. I believe I found the correct video guide for the teardown of your laptop model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDFgqXlLaY4&ab_channel=HPSupport

As for which thermal paste to use, I have had great results with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.

Here is a video from Tek Syndicate on applying thermal paste: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hNgFNH7zhQ&ab_channel=TekSyndicate

Doing this should provide you with lower temps while rendering.

Definitely! I'll link the exact stuff I bought and the vids I referenced.

As far as hacking the switch goes, you'll need to check and make sure your switch is not the new "Mariko" switch, which is a revised version of the switch and is currently un-hackable. Here's a tool where you can check by serial: https://ismyswitchpatched.com/

Stuff I bought:

Thermal paste (highly recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, has the best thermal conductivity on the market besides liquid metal.) Speaking of, don't use liquid metal - it will destroy your switch. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+kryonaut&qid=1606847685&sprefix=Thermal+grizzly&sr=8-4

Thermal pads: https://www.amazon.com/mod-smart-Fujipoly-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJQDYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=fujipoly+ultra+extreme+xr-m+thermal+pad&qid=1606847913&sprefix=Fujipoly&sr=8-4

Video I referenced for thermal pad placement: https://youtu.be/3JN0Bg5dwU0

If this is your first time attempting something like this, you'll probably need a tool kit as the switch does have some fairly wonky screws.

Here's what I've been using for the last couple years: https://www.amazon.com/ORIA-Screwdriver-Professional-Precision-Smartphone/dp/B01E16J6RQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=oria+tool+kit&qid=1606848157&sprefix=Oria+tool&sr=8-5

Also get some 90% isopropyl alcohol for cleaning off the existing thermal paste Nintendo uses. It's not conductive and fast drying.

I own an Envy x360 with a Ryzen chip. I have had the machine for 2 years now so I'll tell you what I have done to the machine to improve it. Some of the following are essential while some are simply nice to have.

Starting with the essentials, up to date drivers are a must with Ryzen machines. Although you have a 3000 series mobile chip which came with a lot fewer headaches than the first generation 2000 series chips, it is still absolutely necessary that you have up to date graphics and chipset drivers. These two downloads (Graphics and Chipsets) can be found on AMD's website using the drop-down menu.

While you can simply use Windows Update to download drivers for things such as WiFi and Bluetooth, I use the HP Support Assistant tool, which is the only one of HP's programs I kept on my machine.

This segways perfectly into our next essential improvements, an SSD. This isn't specific to your machine, but every computer should have an SSD. If your machine came with one, great, you can skip this step. I didn't configure my Envy x360 with an SSD from the factory as it had an open M.2 slot and I could install one myself for cheaper. However, even if yours does not have a slot, it is quite easy to replace an old Hard Drive with a SATA SSD, and it is quite cheap to do. In addition, a clean Windows install that removes all of the HP bloatware is very nice.

On the less essential side, power options under control panel are something I use quite often to extend my own x360's battery life and performance.

When I'm using the machine for simple tasks such as browsing the web, streaming video, or doing office work, I create a "Power Saver" plan. The main changes to the "Power Saver" plan I make are under Change advanced power settings > Processor Power Management. Here, under Maximum Processor State, I change the limit to 75% for both on battery and plugged in, as well as change System Cooling Policy to "Passive." I find this helps to extend battery life just a little bit more and to keep fan noise down to a minimum. Although it is worth noting that my x360 is not inherently bad wit either. Hence why this is a "less essential" improvement.

One thing I did that was unnecessary, but I still recommend doing if you are comfortable, is replacing the thermal paste on the CPU (and GPU if your machine has a separate one) with a quality one. This helps to reduce both heat and noise coming from the machine as often times OEMs use cheap thermal paste or have poor applications. I used Arctic MX-4 on my own machine and it worked quite well, although other pastes such as Arctic Silver 5, Noctua NT-H1, and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut are all good options.

I don't know exactly what you are going to do with your machine. However, 16GB of RAM is also something great to have if you are gaming or any sort of heavy workstation applications such as video editing, AutoCAD, etc. Since your Vega 10 integrated GPU will be sharing system memory with your Ryzen 7 3700U CPU, an extra 8GB of memory is always nice to have. If your system has 2 SODIMM (RAM) slots, just make sure if you do end up buying a new kit of memory that it is dual-channel since Ryzen CPUs heavily benefit from dual-channel (i.e. Make sure your system is running 2 8GB memory modules as opposed to 1 16GB stick).

​

That's all I've got for now, if I can think of any more I'll be sure to edit it into this comment later. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask, as I am happy to help. :)

Just used these components to replace everything along with two videos. I'm dead silent now, so happy. Careful removing the power supply. You're going to need some nice needle nose and a steady hand. You also need to remove additional two screws before you can start removing the power supply. Just make sure to watch both videos sanctimoniously. Good luck to you!!!!

https://youtu.be/0LL6ZzoiR98

https://youtu.be/pud3G-7YsKY

ElecGear Replacement Internal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075R3W8V7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZJSBRE6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste, 1g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_W9JQEbHKCMNBS

Noctua NA-SCW1, Cleaning Wipes... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXGXNDD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Check for Windows updates, there are bound to be at least a few updates to install. It is usually a good idea to install the current graphics drivers for your GPU. After all Windows Updates have been installed, it is a good idea to run Disk Cleanup to remove update files. This can free up less than 1GB of space or in the event of a massive Windows Update it can free up over 6GB.

​

1. Right click the C: Drive and click Properties.
2. Select Disk Cleanup.
3. Click on "Clean up system files" and allow to run.
4. Select all of the checkboxes and then click "Ok"

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Install at least one game and also install HWMonitor. Launch the program to monitor the system when playing games. Play for around 30 minutes to 1 hour, then check HWMonitor and look at your CPU temps and GPU temps. Temps of 90c+ is considered hot while 95c+ is dangerously hot. 86c to 89c is considered pretty warm, though acceptable to some people. Ideally you want your temps to be below 80c.

https://www.cpuid.com/downloads/hwmonitor/hwmonitor_1.28.exe?

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Laptops with Intel CPUs generally run pretty hot and it is recommended you undervolt and or power limit the CPU to reduce temps. You can use either Intel's XTU or ThrottleStop to do this. I attempted to use XTU a few years ago but I had issues with it so I prefer using ThrottleStop to undervolt and power limit Intel CPUs (does not work with AMD APUs). You can search Youtube for guides on how to use either program.

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https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/24075/Intel-Extreme-Tuning-Utility-Intel-XTU

https://www.techpowerup.com/download/techpowerup-throttlestop/

ThrottleStop requires you download and install Visual Basic C++ Redistributable; both x64 and x86 versions.

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4032938/update-for-visual-c-2013-redistributable-package

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MSI Afterburner is used to undervolt nVdia GTX 10xx and 16xx GPU series as well as RTX 20xx series. Search Youtube on how to use it.

https://www.msi.com/page/afterburner

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If temps are still to high even after undervoltig / power limiting, then you will need to replace the thermal paste with something really good like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. However, this means you need to disassemble the laptop... not something that everyone is comfortable doing. This also voids your warranty.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

This at cheaper price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1