TP-Link Omada AC1350 Gigabit Wireless Access Point | Business WiFi Solution w/ Mesh Support, Seamless Roaming & MU-MIMO | PoE Powered | SDN Integrated | Cloud Access & App for Easy Management (EAP225)

Trouble with access point, switch, and MoCa adapter. Did I purchase the wrong Access Point or is there another, underlying issue?

Right now I have two actiontec MoCa adapters set up in my house. My room is a dead zone and we have 2 desktops connected to a switch that's connected to the MoCa adapter.

So right now, I'm wired like this:

Desktops > ethernet > Gigabit Switch > Ethernet > Moca Adapter > Coax

This works great, but I recently bought an access point that I wanted to install.

The Access Point does not work, or is working but is very bad. I don't know if I purchased the wrong one. The access point is this one : TP-Link Omada AC1350 Wireless Access Point (Eap225)

Right now, it doesn't seem to do anything. When I bought the MoCa, I was told that I want to buy an access point as well to remedy the deadzone. At the time, I was unaware that there were MoCa adapters that are also access points, so I missed a huge opportunity there. Something tells me I'm very bad at this stuff

correct approach: Modem -> router -> switch/APs

Your switch can't talk to the internet without a router to route the traffic.

If you need more/better wifi coverage, get an extra wireless access point.

I usually recommend these: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

They're inexpensive and perform reasonably well.

> I was thinking maybe I could plug a router into the modem for better WiFi?

No - this is what access points are for. They are usually designed to be installed on a ceiling, but can be placed on a counter / shelf. The TP-Link EAP225 is a decent AP, and is cheaper than most consumer routers. :)

TP Link EAP225. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

Set the wifi name and password to the same as your other devices and BAM, new "hotspot".

> So since this router is old, would a better router do much difference?

That is a combination MODEM and router, so you'd need a new combo unit, or, a new modem, and new router.

But, since that old beast has 1gbps LAN ports: how about getting an AP for your area?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

Plug that into old router, then get it as close as you can to your videogame and phones.

>but I would like a better router for better wifi speeds

An ap will give you full wifi speeds for less money and hassle I think.

That will work, but the ER-X is too slow to handle gigabit. You're probably better off using a TP-Link Archer A7 as the main router if you're on a budget.

Instead of using routers as access points, you may consider using TP-Link's dedicated access points instead: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ I guess the routers will be more space saving and cost effective if you use them as switches as well.

What you need is an Access Point in your room or very close to your room, which would ideally be hard-wired to the main router. Nearly every router can be run in Access Point mode, or there are dedicated devices that only function as Access Points, like this one.

It's possible you could use the coax with what is called a MoCA to provide the hard-wire bridge from the router to your access point. But first consider running a standard ethernet cord from router to access point, is it possible to run a cord from the router to your room, or just outside your room, through an attic, crawlspace, tucked under baseboards, or even just exposed?

Is this what you’re talking about ? It’s the first thing that came up when I searched for “EAP225 access” point.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0781YXFBT/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Would this work?

get a few access points like these: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=access+point&qid=1577759351&sr=8-5

and connect them to your router, disable internal wifi.

TP-Link Omada AC1350 Gigabit Ceiling Mount Wireless Access Point | MU-MIMO, Seamless Roaming & Beamforming | PoE Powered w/PoE Injector Included | Centralized Cloud Access & Free Omada app (EAP225) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gx4rFbCD6JRFV

I'd recommend the tp link eap225($59), better wifi tech and processor for less money.

I'd get one or two EAP225v3 APs (they generate wifi), connect them via Ethernet to your router, set them up with other SSIDs (wifi names), and not connect to your original wifi.

Also, whats your internet speed from your isp?

If the router is just upstairs. You could turn of it’s WiFi and get a better AP — like a TP-Link EAP225V3 for $59 (Amazon).

TP-Link Omada AC1350 Wireless Access Point – Seamless Roaming, Gigabit, MU-Mimo, Beamforming, Poe Powered, Free PoE Injector, Free Managing Software, Free Facebook/SMS Registration Portal(Eap225) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3JT2EbGQ9VBJC

These are Wifi5. I get ~200-300 Mbit/sec throughout most of house.

I’m assuming that you got this unit from your internet service provider and that it’s a modem/router/WiFi access point all in one. You could get a second wireless access point that would create a new WiFi network. You can run an Ethernet cable from your modem to his room and connect it to the new access point. Here’s an example of a cost effective WAP https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wireless+access+point&qid=1603238437&sprefix=wireless+ac&sr=8-3

Technically you don’t need a new router. Put your current box into “bridge mode” (or similar) and pick up one of these.

Best APs for my scenario?

Hi all! I made a post recently asking some more general advice and got some fantastic feedback. I'm deciding against the mesh, and going for the higher performing dedicated hardware, eventually extended via MoCA. So probably just going to buy an ER-X with an AP to start, see where my dead spots are, and then add MoCA adapters + additional APs.

So, basically 2 questions...

1. Do the APs make a difference? I don't think I care too much about maximum performance, would trade a little bit of that for smoother roaming and easier setup/maintenance. Note that the TPs are $20 cheaper.

2. Do I need a switch to connect to the ER-X? I see people mention that, but the ER-X has 3 extra ethernet ports, which seems good to me. I'll just be connecting it to my main AP and my PS4.

Thanks!

Ubiquiti AC-Lite ($79) https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ubiquiti+access+point+ac-lite&qid=1578064900&sr=8-3

TP-Link EAP225 ($57) https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1E096Y3HZA0G7&keywords=tp-link+eap225&qid=1578064860&sprefix=tp-link+ea%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-1

You should definitely go for this: - https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT - you can get it now for 58$. It is AC1350 so it can support the speed you have. It is also important to mention this is powered through PoE thought the PoE injector should come in the box with it. - you can set it up through the app, but if you want all the extra features targeted for businesses you need to use the pc set up. - this is has one of the best reviews for an Access point - make sure to buy v3 like the one in the link I sent

>Correct, in that you need a controller, and that the software is free. I'm not aware of UBNT hosting the controller for you (if that's the case, I've never looked into it :) ). If you install the controller onto a laptop, that laptop does not need to be connected to your network via ethernet -- WiFi will work just fine.

You only need the controller running to make changes and during setup. His network will function like normal after he finishes setup and powers off his laptop.

The controller software/program is free on their site. You only pay if you want a dedicated hardware device they sell.

>If you haven't purchased the UAP-AC-Lite yet, I'd suggest you look at the TP-Link EAP225 (not an affiliate link). It's basically the same as the Ubiquiti part, however, it has its own web UI built in. It is also powered via PoE, and comes with the needed injector.

The Unifi AC Lite comes with a poe too.

As long as youre not looking for anything too fancy, I've heard chatter about this series on /r/HomeNetworking.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_6szTEb4RX279D

Has dual band, captive portal capabilities, seamless traveling, and some more features. Can be managed from an online management software that is free.

I assume you're returning the netgear router? It sounds like you need a router that can handle lots of traffic(internal) and the best option is to get a good wired router and then a wireless access point for your wireless. If you won't have gigabit internet for a while you can get an entry level Mikrotik(Rb750gr3) or Ubiquiti(edgerouter x) router which will handle just about anything you throw at them. For a Wireless access point you can get a TP- Link EAP225 until Ax(wifi 6) wireless becomes more prevalent.

I run the TP-Link EAP225, and it's great for how cheap it is.

Wireless performance on OpenWrt is often mediocre, so your speeds are not surprising.

You should purchase... neither product, and go with 2 TP-Link Omadas for $110 total. Disable Wi-Fi on your Archer A7 and keep it as your gateway. That way you'll have all the power of OpenWrt with quality Wi-Fi performance.

Powerline is usually a bad idea - go with an access point like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ or a Unifi one.

TP-Link has similar access points that perform just as well for a lesser price. Ubiquiti isn't the only budget friendly choice out there.

Just plug in any access point, you can even use your existing router as an AP, and it may not have issues anymore once it's relieved of the routing part of its duty.

I use this for wifi personally and have had no issues, but any router or AP will work: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

Jumping in, but I purchased this model in the last 3 months for $60. I have it paired with a Ubiquity Edgerouter X. I think it supports the MIMO you are looking for. I've been very happy.

I have it sitting on a table centrally (not on ceiling) and get better signal on each floor of my townhouse than I did with my previous all in one netgear wireless router. Config is dead simple on the AP (er-x is another matter but I'm happy with it). I have it set up with home, guest, and iot wifi networks with vlans filtered in the router. It does everything I need.

From a recommendation here I hooked up an old router and got a access point. I had cat 5 ran to one of my nodes for the backbone so I was able to hook this up.

TP-Link Omada AC1350 Wireless Access Point - Seamless Roaming, Gigabit, MU-Mimo, Beamforming, Poe Powered, Free PoE Injector, Free Managing Software, Free Facebook/SMS Registration Portal(Eap225) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4J2sEbGHF22MX

Going to get another one I think and turn off the wifi on my router I think.

Kind of; a typical home router is actually three devices built in one - a router (which manages your network, assigns IP addresses etc), a switch (which breaks up the network in multiple ports, so that you can plug in more devices, and an access point (which provides wifi). So in your case, you don’t want to put an additional router in the network, as you already have one and you don’t want that to conflict with the existing one. Instead get an access point which you plug in using an ethernet cable. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=pd_lpo_147_t_2/151-0684221-9904965?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0781YXFBT&pd_rd_r=f48a0751-4084-46c7-a519-1ea7e2bb74e4&pd_rd_w=MI2pT&pd_rd_wg=xqiJb&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=7KJZV8JXH4VX6DPBP2MN&psc=1&refRID=7KJZV8JXH4VX6DPBP2MN

As an alternative you could replace your current router with a mesh system, like Google Wifi or Eero. This enables you to put various ‘satellites’ around your house which are basically access points that communicate back to the base system using wireless. The benefit of that is that you don’t need ethernet cables between the devices and can still expand the reach of your network.

I would take advantage of having ethernet already in-place (battle is 60% won right there), skip over the consumer stuff altogether, and finish off your network the proper way: with SMB-grade, discrete components (separate wired router and wire-first APs, optionally a PoE switch in-between). By doing so, you'll have a solution in place that runs more like an appliance and less like a toy.

For just a bit over $500, I would run a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter 12 ($230), four TP-Link EAP225v3's ($60 ea, $240 total; one close to the router and each of the others at the end of your three LAN runs), plus the OC200 controller ($95). $565 all-in. The APs come with PoE injectors, so you can forgo a PoE switch between the router and APs for now.

People need the cloud key if you’re making constant changes or monitoring. If you’re going to set it and forget then you won’t need it.

Ubiquiti is good for their ecosystem and lots of fine tuning. I have some customers on it because I can remote admin them for any issues.

But really any access point would be fine. At my moms house her access point in her bedroom is my old router. Works great. As long as it’s dual band it’ll be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/

This guy is a bit cheaper. Your parents won’t know the difference.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/

This is even cheaper and gives you more Ethernet ports to play with (or just place it on the desk)

But If you want to try out ubiquiti go for it. It’s only a few $$ more. But your parents won’t notice their Facebook loading any faster or having more range.

Or a new TP-Link EAP225 for $57 with a clickable $3 coupon

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/

Depending on the distance from the house to the garage/barn, this might give you enough reach especially on 2.4GHz

Hi

Good news for you is that you seem to have an Ethernet connection between your living room router and your room. This is the key to your salvation! You can also save a bunch of money too.

First off, you do not need to spend $250+ on that AX82U. Since it will not be your main router, buying that much tech just to get your room properly connected is a waste. If you already had that router laying around, sure, use it, but you do not need to spend that much to get everything you want.

All you need for your room is two items: a switch, which provides multiple Ethernet ports for you to connect your gaming systems, PCs, and TVs to, and then an Access Point which will provide Wifi for you and all your guests in your room (and the surrounding area too!).

Here is an example of an 8 port switch:

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Splitter-Optimization-Unmanaged-TL-SG108/dp/B00A121WN6

You connect that switch to the Ethernet in your room. After doing that, all the other ports on the switch will be "live" and have the best possible connection back to your Spectrum router. You'll need a few more Ethernet cables to hook up your game consoles, PCs, and TVs to that switch, but after that, everything wired in will have the best possible connection.

Here is an example of a low-cost Access Point:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT

You would also plug this in to your switch, using the provided PoE Injector that comes with it. Then you'd configure it as your Wifi providing device.

You can give it either the same SSID and password as your Spectrum router, or a different "private" one that only you and your friends know the password. If you give it the same, then any device in the house can "roam" to it or the Spectrum router without user intervention. If you keep it private, then, of course, only people who know the password can attach. However, once connected either way, all devices on the network will be able to "see" each other, so it's not really a separate network even with a private SSID / password. If you are cool with everyone in the house, I suggest you use the same SSID and password and be a good bro.

All this costs $80, and will give you excellent results, particularly with wired-in devices in your room, and "5 bar" Wifi in your room too.

CPE710 = model number

AC867 = Wireless spec (Wifi 5, 802.11ac) and "rated" maximum speed (867, that will never be reached as those are always max theoretical speeds)

Here is an access point https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/

Both the long-range bridge and the access point I linked you are powered via Power-over-Ethernet.

So here is a switch that can power (and connect) them both

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Compliant-Shielded-Optimization-TL-SG1005P/dp/B076HZFY3F/

If you can run Ethernet to a couple of places, then you could get two or three access points and place them wherever you need them.

The Unifi AP AC Lite or TP Link EAP 225 are both good options that deliver solid performance.

Could something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/-/es/TP-Link-EAP225-inal%C3%A1mbrico-MU-MIMO-instalaci%C3%B3n/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sr_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=wireless%2Baccess%2Bpoints&qid=1604347339&s=pc&sr=1-1&ts_id=1194486&th=1, should I get an AP that has an Ethernet port to it so I can hook up my desktop directly?

She'll primarily be using it for college (Word, Blackboard, Zoom) and then I guess Netflix and Social Media on her own time. She isn't a gamer at all and doesn't need that extra power.

For the eap225, I saw on Amazon they had the outdoor one which was $80 and then a regular one for $60, and a which one would you recommend?

Since you have a cable running to the shed, getting wireless in the shed would require a wireless access point. Some of the more popular ones are Ubiquiti: https://www.newegg.com/ubiquiti-networks-unifi-ac-lite-ap/p/0E6-00S0-00007?item=9SIA2F88ZS9882

TP-Link also has a pretty good one:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mYD.Eb9WA45E4

If you decide to go with a router, you would need to make sure that it has a repeater mode and that you can disable dhcp server, as you don't want conflicting dhcp on the same network.

1. Technically, no. You can put it in bridge mode.
2. You can also just get an Access Point instead of bridge mode and disable the wireless networks in your current gateway. Such as TP-Link EAP225v3 (wavy cover version) or EAP245. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=psdc_1194486_t2_B07953S2FD?th=1
3. Generally speaking, yes. MU-MIMO is also sometimes referred to as Wave 2 AC or Gen2 AC.

BTW, AX has MU-MIMO by default. AX routers/gateways are kinda pricey and probably not worth the money for a 200mbps line.

Your asus router should support mesh so you could add another asus model that supports that. I'm not sure if you can find one at $40...doubtful...but maybe an option worth checking out. Ideally wired is best, then you could just add an access point.

>netgear r6700

that would probably be ok (based on the paper stats); but if your wanting good Wifi coverage in your home, then you will need hardwired Wifi Access Points to provide a solid signal in the locations that have weak Wifi coverage.

Because the claims of coverage on the Router box do NOT take into account the construction of a normal home.

Also, regardless of the claims on the box, Wifi routers are governed and restricted by FCC regulation on their transmit power and they ALL have the same restrictions/limitations.

So the best thing would be to install the Wifi router of your choice and see how well it performs and then install Wifi Access Points in the locations that require better coverage.

something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=twister_B081R1BWKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&coliid=I19S0DCTFAWK8M&colid=139Z48SE1DVVQ

is this good?

​

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=EAP225&qid=1603081281&s=electronics&sr=1-1

I also use an Eero, in bridge mode. You have two routes, you can purchase another wifi system for your IoT devices, which I did. The TP-link Omada is pretty cheap and can do VLANs, so you can even add guest to this.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-nc-drs1_0?cv_ct_cx=tp-link+omada&dchild=1&keywords=tp-link+omada&pd_rd_i=B0781YXFBT&pd_rd_r=b4bcaf9d-310e-4036-ac70-4fec5d21aacf&pd_rd_w=24cfw&pd_rd_wg=QjR00&pf_rd_p=84ce0865-d9ca-42e3-87ed-168be8f93162&pf_rd_r=VH6J1H99DME64FVE1RBS&psc=1&qid=1607009211&sr=1-1-88388c6d-14b8-4f70-90f6-05ac39e80cc0

Other simple option is use the Guest mode on the Eero and have all of the IoT devices on that SSID, but you will lose seeing traffic of the individual devices, as all of the traffic will show as coming from the Eero node itself. Going this route will segregate traffic from your other devices. You can run into issues if something needs direct access from the non-guest network to the guest network such as Airplay.

Hi. This is a great post and answers all possible questions. Well done.

Yes it is true, we love the edgerouter series as they are easy to configure but have pretty much all the features you ask for and all that for a reasonable price.
I do oppose the people going for Unifi Access Points though as they're pretty expensive.

If you really have 1,500sq ft I doubt a single AP will do it. I suggest you get at least two and place them diagonal in your house. The best scenario would be to get them wired with ethernet but if that is not possible, Mesh is still an option.

I recommend the small to medium office sized tp-link EAP225 ($57 on Amazon) which has a pretty good coverage. They even have a Mesh feature built-in, incase you'll need it in the future. The only downside is that it's not WiFi6.
I think you don't have to go with WiFi6 yet. I'd stick to 802.11 AC for now.

Presuming you're not interested in a seamless wi-fi experience(that is, you don't need to seamlessly move from one to the other as if they're a contiguous network) then this switch and an AP like this one would work fine.

Thanks for the info! I have about 7 cables. Just to verify, I would need an 8 port PoE switch like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BP0SSAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o70uEbBSQV8XF.

And at least one WAP like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e90uEbTA456Q6

Is this all plug and play? Does the WAP require advanced setup?

> Most of the AP's I've seen are $100+ not including a switch

A TP-Link EAP225 is $58, and a basic gigabit switch is $15.

What's the different between the $60 one you posted earlier and this more expensive version? I tried reading the details but it's like reading french to me, lol. I tried to find range on both but didn't see any square footage specifically.

Would something like this give the entire upstairs coverage?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-EAP225-V3-Wireless-Supports/dp/B0781YXFBT/ref=sxin_7_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-YWNjZXNzIHBvaW50-ac_d_rm&cv_ct_cx=access%2Bpoint&dchild=1&keywords=access%2Bpoint&pd_rd_i=B0781YXFBT&pd_rd_r=a8a87bbf-4760-455d-9d49-1b957af24997&pd_rd_w=XD82z&pd_rd_wg=Pz8gK&pf_rd_p=54ae11ea-870e-480b-a70f-1f4a57c2e311&pf_rd_r=M14A46DAJVRZX32GW4M3&qid=1593784138&sr=1-1-12d4272d-8adb-4121-8624-135149aa9081&th=1

How to get two TP Link EAPs to work at once?

I have two of these TP link EAP 225s (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781YXFBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), that I would like to connect to my internet to increase coverage in my basement and a distant area of the house from the router. Previously, I ran a CAT-6 cable to the distant area and hardwired it into my FIOS modem, and the wifi in that room is great. When I bought the 2nd one, I figured I could do the same, but then realized my FIOS modem/router) only has one slot for a connection. I bought this router (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but when I plug both EAPs into the router, only one carries a connection and the other does not.

What do I need to buy or do in order to get both EAPs to work? I don't even mind if it means having 2 or 3 wireless networks in my house, I just want to be able to have fast internet in these areas because one if my work from home area, and the other is where the kids stream their shows/movies.