I’m about to make you an expert:

If your internet is cable (I.e 10Mbps upload but 100’s download) you should get either an eero or edgerouterX. If your internet is 300+ Mbps Down you should either get an eero or edgerouter4

The reason for this is the SQM QoS. If your not a techie get the eero. SQM QoS is like an F1 car compared to a model T of normal QoS.

For extra APs, you don’t need to spend much. This will do just fine:

TP-Link AC1200 Router/AP

Mesh is for grandmas. Treat mesh as a last resort. I recommend the eero only because it has SQM QoS and not because it’s mesh. It is the only consumer router that has it (the edgerouter or USG’s being prosumer)

There is very little difference in the range of all routers. Treat every sqft stat as a lie. It’s just a way to get the consumer to buy the $300 AP instead of the $50 AP even if they actually cover the same area.

A truism: Every router and phone is limited by law to be the same power. $50 and $300. Two $50 APs will vastly outperform one $300. While one $300 will only be slightly better than a $50 if any.

But even if there was some Lamborghini bodied gaming router (aka routers for dumb people with mosey) that was powerful (there isn’t) to send a signal great distances your phone isn’t powerful enough to send the request for the pornhub video in the first place. WiFi is a two way street. You can get around this with directional antennas to get some more range. But consumer routers don’t have it. It’s better to just get multiple wired APs. The goal should be that your phone and AP can have a conversation at a “normal volume” instead of trying to scream through multiple walls. That’s what makes a good WiFi system.

You don’t need a cloud key. You can run the software on your computer for setup, then just run it anytime you need to change something.

The roaming of ubiquiti is because of 802.11k,r, and v. These are standards and are not ubiquiti specific. That being said I’ve found that (if I was to make up a statistic) only increase roaming around the house by 2%. It’s not worth spending extra money on. But if you have it then use it. The biggest reason to go with ubiquiti is if you want the ecosystem of monitoring. If you just want to use the web: an eero router and TPLink APs will do just fine at a low cost. You won’t see a performance difference. Look for APs with MU-Mimo and beam forming. Those are the biggest features you should look for (the $50 TP link has them)

P.s. if your internet is symmetrical gigabit, then any modern router will work. You don’t need QoS

So you already have an USI ethernet jack on the wall somewhere in the apartment? If so, you should be able to set it up on your own. I would highly recommend just buying a router and saving yourself a lot of money long-term though.

This would probably work fine for you and it's $45 with coupon right now.

It's not the same. You can also just buy your own router, you don't need to rent. Something as cheap as this will work fine

TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6),Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8QCsEb03167RA

I bought the TPLink Archer A6 a year ago. It works really well with Cincinnati Bell's TV and internet services. The wifi signal is much better than the standard fioptics modem, IMO.

You need a router with IPTV/VLAN ability to be set in bridge mode.

Not sure what you are paying for speed wise, but you can get something along the lines of this:

amazon router

Edit: brand wise I’ve always used net gear and never had a problem. Tp-link is fine and those reviews don’t look terrible. Just make sure you’re getting what you need for your speed.

I would try this:

TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_HSgCEbW07NHWR

I currently use a C 2300 by TP Link. The web interface looks similar. Very happy with speed and Wi-Fi coverage.

Tplink AC1200 Archer C6 works for me very well. It has built in OpenVPN. I researched a bit and this seems to be best inexpensive option if you need wifi router with OpenVPN. Just replace existing one with this one and it should work out if the box. Easy to setup and use.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07N1L5HX1?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Routers are cheap. If your only going to use it for the Quest a $50 router is plenty. I've been using this one TP-Link Archer 6. Its an ac1200 gigabit router and it works great.

I'd get a router which has an access point mode, like a TP-Link Archer A6, https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

An Ethernet cable should reach 328ft and you can connect your PCs to it by cable or Wifi.

Yeah you most likely do have one of those routers. This one seems pretty good for the price. Also, when you buy your own router it knocks $5 off of the monthly bill because you don't need to rent it from spectrum anymore. If you can't convince your parents to do that then you can get an ethernet cable that reaches from the router to your computer and that should help a lot with the disconnects.

Get a cheap router. It's so easy. I got this one

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

But honestly, before you even do that, also make sure your router has all the latest drivers. Maybe reset it just to be sure. Install the config app they provide. Update the router firmware. That might do the trick.

Depends on your needs and budget. Pretty much any router with an external antenna will do better than both Spectrum ones. You can spend over $200 and get something that will give you and all your neighbors internet. Something like This is also a good option. Generally, the higher the AC#, the better and more expensive it will be.

I don’t know much about routers but I am in your exact situation (300 down 15 up, 3 peopke using nextflix and browsing) and I live in a 2 story house so the signal needs to travel pretty far, I’ve had this for half a year and it’s worked well: TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_dlC_ZZZZFb5X7VAR5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Lastly, if it is possible at all, USE ETHERNET! I cannot tell you what a game changer it is. I drilled a hole in the top floor of my house and routed the coax cable through the hole to my modem on my desk, and it has honestly been worth it. Hope this helps!

You should ditch the extender and just get a WiFi AP. Have the same SSID and password.

TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit WiFi Router (Archer A6) - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/

> Is that wireless adapter compatible with Ryzen?

Yup.

> What wireless bridge would you recommend?

If you had to go that route I would go with a wireless router and then turn it into a wireless bridge. They usually have the ability in the GUI. Something like this would suffice.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

I’m having a similar issue with streaming to my Amazon 4k stick via plex. I’m thinking about upgrading to this router. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=archer+ac1200&qid=1607328839&sprefix=archer+ac&sr=8-3

The router is cheap and has speed of around 830 mbps over 5ghz. I plan on connecting the firestick and my Xbox one x on the 5ghz band.

That's called a repeater or extender. Pretty sure this tp has repeater mode but seems to be corona priced right now (still under $50 but usually less).

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

You'll be much better off sneakily running a wire to this or your belkin in access point mode.

White wire on white baseboard isn't too noticeable, and if it's an apartment you can prob only run it just to the next room and still see a big improvement

I can almost guarantee that you’re being bottlenecked by not using 5ghz and yes that router is very outdated in both features and max throughput (450 on the 5ghz). Best bang for the buck would probable be the TP Link Archer A6 at $45 as it is like the only router (as far as I’ve seen) with MU-MIMO and Beam-forming at that price point. The slightly older A7 is $50 with higher max throughout but testing has both about the same speed and you’re not gonna hit the max anyway with your internet service. The Netgear Nighthawk R6700 at $60 is also another solid budget choice. If you have a large home you’d want to go mesh but that costs well over $120ish and tbh just the new budget router + turning on the features like MIMO and beam forming or band steering will dramatically increase your actual speed in daily usage.

TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6)

So today I placed my order for both the 200/200 Fios internet and this router. I'll worry about the types of cables I have after I see the internet working properly. Is the router at least a decent pick for this plan? Thanks.

$50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/

Is this for a pet project/hobby or for everyday use?

If for everyday use, buy something basic like this instead. It’ll be well worth it: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

Yes, the typical box we call a "wireless router" could be more properly thought of as a 3-in-1 combo device:

1. Wi-Fi AP (publishes a wireless network for clients to join, and acts as a point of access to the rest of the network infrastructure)
2. Home gateway router (NAT gateway, DHCP server, etc.)
3. LAN-side 4-port Ethernet switch

So you can take any typical "wireless router" and disable its "home gateway router" features, and simply use it as a 2-in-1 "4-port Ethernet switch with integrated Wi-Fi AP".

I recommend at least an AC1200 class device with gigabit Ethernet ports.

That ASUS RT-ACRH13 is a bit weird. It's basically an AC1200 device: 300Mbps N on 2.4GHz, 867Mbps AC on 5GHz, but its 2.4GHz radio does some nonstandard, proprietary trick (probably a Broadcom chipset; Broadcom loves these nonstandard proprietary speedups) to reach a 400Mbps PHY rate when talking to clients that happen to know the same trick (probably only certain Broadcom client chipsets).

If you like TP-Link okay and want to save $10, go with an Archer A6.

Are you using this one? Are you connected to 5G? My experience with the router I linked has been flawless. Maxed out at 100Mbps (max) every time I use Virtual Desktop, 21-28ms latency, no drops or stutters.

I'm literally just searching on "wifi router gigabit ethernet." https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_dlT_MVXPFbVY49NYP

TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Supports Beamforming, Guest WiFi and AP mode, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xN-EFbK805JES this one is good for around $50

I misread ahah thank you.

I'm not sure what you mean by Power point networking but a CPL is a small box that you plug into a wall outlet that has an ethernet port. It uses the eletrical wires to "spread" the network (don't ask me how it works ahah). You must also have another one connected to your main router.

It is very useful when you need better speed than what wifi can offer while being far from your router.

If I buy something like this : amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1 It will act as the wifi access point and the switch at the same time no ?

>OnHub 5ghz

Basically ac 1200 and 5ghz is what is required. Here is my router which works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=5ghz+routers&qid=1602967057&sr=8-4

​

You don't have to go all out crazy on a high end router fortunately. But you will probably need to spend $50 to ensure a good experience. You might be able to dip down to $35-50 price range but quality might vary that low.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERK1JLM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_loLhFb47TYC2X

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_UqLhFbGN3D8TZ

A big, big thumbs down to the TP 1200 router. Are you sure you linked the right one? It looks like a N450.

It only has 10/100 Fast Ethernet ports, cutting your speed down in half right there.

Then it only has "N" Wireless networking. Get AC, it's worth the additional cost.

Here is a good budget router that has gigabit Ethernet and AC, and supports third party firmware for alternative software to try if you have issues with the software it came with:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G

It's double the price, but 3-10x the router, so worth it.

The modem is ok by looking at the specs, it will juuuust fit your plan with no room for much greater speed. However, I've been using a 150/12 plan for a very long time (5+ years), and I don't feel a need to upgrade soon either. When 8K TV shows are common 10+ years from now, I'll reconsider my speed then.

edit: you probably meant this router, and not the one you linked:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

I'd still pay the extra $15 and get the A7 model over this one, based on the popularity of the two models (the C7/A7), and the fact I've used an C7/A7 before and found it to be solid.

If your dad has as low speeds as you say then you should be fine with a Motorola MB7220. I just installed one for my mom who has 100mbps from Comcast at around $70 a month and it works great. If you also need a router with a built in access point then the TP-Link AC1200 is fine for that speed too and was simple to setup with the MB7220.

Was not aware at first but it does have 10/100 ports. Its the TP-Link N300 and I just bought the TP-LINk AC1200 to replace it.

For modem, you want a docsis 3.0 modem, this one's probably the most accessible one price-wise, and it's perfect for Cox. Docsis 3.0 basically just means that it's ready for speeds up to 350Mbps down. If you have the Ultimate Classic plan or Gigablast plan, you need a Docsis 3.1 modem, though! Let me know if you need a recommendation for those.

For router, you just want something that's, ideally, got dual bands (5GHz and 2.4GHz, the 5GHz for your standard devices and the 2.4GHz band for any older devices that can't connect to the higher speed band), and TP-Link has some of the best routers out there, I've found. Their Archer routers are really nice, and I've used them for the last 2 routers I've had, which have lasted at least 10 years over the course of the 2 of them. This one's a nice, well-priced example, and I think it'd suit a small space well with a chance to move up to a medium space in the future.

IMPORTANT: If you get a new modem that's not Cox's, you have to call their tech support line (949)240-1212, and be on the phone with them to give them the MAC address of the new modem before it'll let you onto the internet. The MAC address of the new modem is on a sticker on the bottom of the modem, usually, but it won't let you onto the internet without talking to their tech support for this step!

Considering how much you're paying Cox to rent their shit, these'll pay themselves off in less than a year, IIRC. It's been a while since I've paid to rent Cox's equipment, so... no idea how much it's costing nowadays.

And I just got the notification for your other comment. I've got the Cox Gigablast package because of all the uploading and downloading I do. It's... barely worth it, honestly, but I'm seriously considering going back down to the Ultimate 500 instead.

Connect a laptop to the router via a network cable. When the wifi dies confirm that the laptop still has internet. If it does not call you isp and tell them that the line or router is faulty. If the laptop still has internet via cable but the wifi is dead you can change the security setting on the router(Wpa), the channels on the router. Easiest would be to buy one of these. Run a network cable from your existing router into these. Tp link is good for the price and will perform better than your current router. The tenda system is brilliant and covers a much larger area. Both these will only work if your router never loses internet if a device is connected via a network cable.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cable+router+tplink&qid=1578785516&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Tenda-Technology-NOVA-MW3-Whole/dp/B07DFQGP1K/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=tenda&qid=1578785452&sr=8-6

How to get two TP Link EAPs to work at once?

I have two of these TP link EAP 225s (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0781YXFBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), that I would like to connect to my internet to increase coverage in my basement and a distant area of the house from the router. Previously, I ran a CAT-6 cable to the distant area and hardwired it into my FIOS modem, and the wifi in that room is great. When I bought the 2nd one, I figured I could do the same, but then realized my FIOS modem/router) only has one slot for a connection. I bought this router (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1L5HX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but when I plug both EAPs into the router, only one carries a connection and the other does not.

What do I need to buy or do in order to get both EAPs to work? I don't even mind if it means having 2 or 3 wireless networks in my house, I just want to be able to have fast internet in these areas because one if my work from home area, and the other is where the kids stream their shows/movies.

You can omit the setup kit and go buy your own modem+router from the store or from Amazon. Here's the modem I use for my 200Mbps down connection and a router I'd probably choose if I was just starting out.

Pros: Take it with you to your next apt/house for at least the next 3-4 years. If Spectrum was still doing modem rental fees, it'd pay itself off within a year, but I can't use that comparison lately because modem rentals are included in your bill. Usually the modem+router Spectrum gives you are garbage.

Cons: up front cost of ~$100 which may or may not be doable right now.

Sorry. That is a lot of tech junk I threw in there. I've been an IT person for 25 years. A router like this TP-Link AC1900 or similar will likely solve your problems.

This one will work fine too and is a little cheaper. TP-Link AC1200

How much can you reasonably spend on it?

These are some cheap new ones:

Asus RT-ACRH12

TP-Link A6

You can also look for the TM-AC1900 on eBay. Those are used and branded Tmobile router, but the actual hardware is as good as a much more expensive router (the AC68U). They can be had for around $60.

What a weird analogy.

Your 'structure fire' solution does one thing only, and I agree it's probably easier to set up.

But using his old router as an AP, he's already there. It's just bad luck he has 10/100Mbps ports.

I don't normally do product recommendations, but from the same amazon, you can find this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=gigabit+router&qid=1595772383&sr=8-11

It's cheaper and it provides 3 or 4 additional gigabit ports, in case he wants to connect ethernet devices in future. There's nothing unnatural or forced about converting a router to be an access point. And this router does have AP mode, for what it's worth.

So the garden hose solution can actually provide additional gigabit speed, at a lower price, for not much more configuration difficulty than what he's doing already.

Deal link: Amazon

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last question i swear. Which one would you recommend for 4k streaming video from pc -> oculus go.

• archer c7 (universally recommended seems like) https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-AC1750-Smart-Router/dp/B00BUSDVBQ

• archer a6 (a newer model of the c7?) https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Thanks in advance

TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Gigabit Dual Band MU-MIMO Wireless Internet Router, Long Range Coverage by 4 Antennas(Archer A6) - 44.99

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS (Archer A7) - 51.99

Honestly the fact that you are using their proprietary equipment is red-flag number one, it's known to be pretty terrible and they charge you monthly. For a few months of that charge you can buy your own that will last years.

Go get a modem and a half decent router and you should be able to more easily debug your own equipment and get better performance. Not to mention save some money in the long run.

(the surfboards are pretty much what i used for the past 12 years on my own with 0 issues, the router was just the top amazon link. I have a more specialized gaming router that is honestly a bit overpriced but I like the firmware)

> Archer C-50 TP Link

You mean this one?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=psdc_300189_t1_B071RSD473

Thanks. I was gonna get this really cheap TP-Link one but I'll spring for the $50 dual band one instead.

Thanks! I should be able to set up the router okay, I think by simple I meant to say without all the extra bells and whistles that won’t make any difference for my situation. While it’s been years since I set up a router I did manage to be the go-to person to set up routers years and years ago when people first started getting WiFi in their homes 🤣.

I’m wondering if any of these are valid options? The first one is a brand I’ve never heard of but reviews seem decent. The other two are TP-Link (which seems to be a decent brand?) one looks like it has higher specs than the ones you mentioned, but I’m not sure if they would be anything that would make a difference for me. I’m assuming AC1200, AC1300, AC1750 wouldn’t be noticeably different in my situation?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BF3YNGN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=A8F6FPT8V0I37&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JD7F7G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=router&qid=1607736885&refinements=p_36%3A-5000&rnid=386442011&sr=8-3#customerReviews

What is your budget?

If you are really tight, I would suggest the A7:

TP-Link Archer A7

For smaller spaces or fewer devices

The TP-Link Archer A7 is great for smaller spaces. It’s an excellent performer, it typically costs less than half as much as our top pick, and firmware updates have improved it significantly.

$65 on amazon.

>Also, shall I go with A6/C6 for MU-MIMO

Mu Mimo doesn't add much TBH:

https://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-features/33100-why-you-don-t-need-mu-mimo

MU-MIMO In A Nutshell

• MU-MIMO uses a special form of beamforming that is part of the 802.11ac standard.

• It works in 5 GHz only.

• MU-MIMO theoretically enables up to four devices to share the same Wi-Fi airtime.

• Many 4x4 based designs support only up to three simultaneous devices, 3x3 designs support up to two, 2x2 designs can't support any.

• You need both MU-MIMO enabled routers and devices to benefit from MU-MIMO

• You need at least two MU-MIMO devices to get any benefit from MU-MIMO

• MU-MIMO works only for downlink data (moving from router to device). It provides no benefit for uplink

• MU-MIMO works best with strong to medium strength signals

• MU-MIMO does not increase range

Again, Archer A7 seems to be the low budget sweet spot.

The A6/ac1200 is only 15 dollars cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1200-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B07N1L5HX1

But, it's still the #3 best selling router on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/pc/300189/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_pc

Wow, You have did lots of homework.

In general, your plan is working.

Any problem with it being 4-way when I only need 3? I assume it’d be better to do the 2.5 instead of 2.3? Is the GE one suited for this use?

//You can use 4-way splitter.

Get two Actiontec 2.5 MoCA adapters. Doubt 2.5 is useful right now, but worth doing that instead of 2.0 for eventual upgrades? It’s $30 more but that’s the only downside I see as long as it’s backwards compatible?

//MoCA 2.5 is better than MoCA 2.0. You can try Actiontec or our device. Our device is much cheaper than their products.

Similar question as in the entry section re: the splitter - looks underrated for MoCa capabilities. But since this was provided by Xfinity should I just leave this one alone until I actually have speeds that would justify a more powerful splitter?

//Please replace it

Or should I just get a new router like the TP-Link Archer 6 and use that for ethernet and somehow also for wifi? I've learned I really don't understand routers and how to make them do what I want them to do.

//E1550 is too old. Please try to get a new one. It is very easy to configure it. If you need an help. Please let me know.

​

• I've read about terminator caps? Something like this? Do they actually help anything?

• Should I be putting them on the unused "Out" coax port on the upstairs adapter, and on the unused port on the 4-way basement splitter if I use that?

• Should I be putting them around the house on my unused coax wall ports?

//Just leave them there, no need terminators.

​

I have SO MANY cables in the basement that look like they go nowhere. Is there any way that could be causing me any problems?

//Just leave them there, don't connect them to your splitter. Until you want to use it.