Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White

Yeah I don't think either would work well. You need a lube/grease. Mine used to make the same noise and I tried "Remington oil" didn't work. I got this and haven't heard that sound in months. PTFE Grease

I just use silicone grease for everything.

My backspace key is getting obnoxiously squeaky. Is this a good lube for the stabilizer?

What kind of grease did you use? The grease that I can see in the opening of my gearbox looks pretty crusty. I was thinking of using this stuff.

Yeah that's correct. I use ball bearings for various purposes, I use a thick grease if it needs to stay lubricated and a thin oil if it needs to move very smoothly (but then it needs repeated application).

This is good stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO

Again, aimed at not having to having to maintain it too often. Otherwise you can just grab whatever thin (motor) oil you have.

Just clean out the bearings once in a while.

Ah superlube. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ok so the bearings don't come with any lubrication, they come with antirust oil. Prusa now includes lubricant but from what I understand this was not always the case. There's no need to but lubricant from them (especially with the current shipping times) so you get any good silicone lubricant with PTFE. If you're in the US you can get this one, recommended by Josef: https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO

I've used super lube on my 686 since I've bought it. Change it every 2 or 3 outings. Also bought a few paint brushes. Put a few dabs on the wear surfaces, then spread it thin with the brush.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_fK63FbFKGHS8Q

No, but I have been using this on my wires for quite some time. Super Lube 92003 Silicone Lubricating Grease with PTFE, 3 oz Tube, Translucent White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lmMHFbPR27CQC

I use Super Lube on my Prusa bearings.

What about super lube 92003? Ive seen videos and heard it gives almost an identical sound and feel of krytox. If not, I'll probably just go with some krytox. It just didn't make sense to spend the same price or more and get waayyy less.

I've been testing that actually. As of right now, I've found that moving them vertically may require more force due to more friction. If you grease your window with this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO, it really helps. But someone with a vertical window wants to buy one so I've begun testing it and the results are good as long as the friction is not more than 40 pounds or so to move it. If you have a luggage or fish scale, you can check to see how much is required to move your window

I have a bottle of Super Lube.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Super+lube&qid=1597933258&sr=8-2

This stuff. Probably be good?

Here's what I recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v2blFb26QCYM6

What you need is Lubricating Grease with PTFE.

This is what is specified in the BOM

The WD-40 you have dries quickly and is more for corrosion resistance.

a lot of people (including myself) like superlube with ptfe. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=super+lube+with+ptfe&qid=1588095606&sr=8-2

Which of these should I be using? https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=super+lube+with+ptfe&qid=1586359619&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=super+lube+with+ptfe&qid=1586359686&sr=8-2

All the lubes I mentioned are widely available

Super Lube

PTFE Grease I use - comments are all keyboard related even though it's intended for use in mountain bikes lol

To clip and lube the stabs, you’ll need to first remove the caps and switches. The tools for that should have been included with the keyboard. Then you can use a small flathead screwdriver to take the stabs out. To clip the stabs, you can use something like these cutters and to lube them, something like this for the thick lube, and krytox 205g0 for lubing other parts of the stabs.

use PTFE lubricant along the pump rails, it will help a decent bit and then continue to rack it until the PTFE grease is fully spread, just make sure you clean the old PTFE off regulary and relube it, heres a link for a decently sized bottle https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=PTFE+grease&qid=1595364510&sr=8-2

Is this any good for hotas? I don't really want to spend that much money on lube. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=nyogel+774&qid=1597009666&sr=8-2

Nyogel 760P - https://www.amazon.com/NyoGel-760G-Dielectric-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B07FD145CP

Or

Super Lube Silicone grease with PTFE - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_d1wvEb3ZPGRHF

Don't get the aerosol or dry stuff. Get the actual lube. The brand I linked in the BOM is the one I recommend. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=PTFE+Lube&qid=1589930834&sr=8-6

I use it on my guns, lights, and everything in between. Love this stuff.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=super+lube&qid=1593643950&sr=8-5

I used the superlube linked from https://prusacommunity.com/set-your-bearing-straight/ this article but that link is broken. Thanks u/nilsk89 for that article!

Link here: Superlube with PTFE

Follow that article to a T and print out (before teardown) the lube tip and cap so you can pack them effectively!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NLGI_consistency_number

https://nelsonjameson.com/learn/sanitation-maintenance/food-grade-lubricant-nsf-ratings/

Some examples:

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-ViperLube-Performance-Synthetic-Grease/dp/B0045NK4YK/

hey that's awesome that you want to build a keyboard! I'll kinda list off some mix of opinions and tips that you might find helpful:

• Some googling of the GK64 xs showed that it doesn't have the best software for customization. I personally like boards that are QMK compatible.
• My current build is also going to use kailh box jade switches, I have a board with kailh thick golds and I absolutely love it so I'm very excited for the box jades. Two things to keep in mind with the box jades: it only supports SMD LEDs for backlighting as the box jades are waterproof and the switches are only plate mounted. If you go with the GK64 xs you should be good on both of these fronts.
• Be careful which YMDK keyset you get. Ideally you want anything PBT and YMDK has quite a few ABS sets that are pretty low quality (I built a full YDMK kit and honestly the keycaps are kinda disappointing). You can get some pretty cheap solid doubleshot keycaps from razer or hyperx
• Be sure you get a good keycap puller and switch puller, I personally like the 2 in 1 types like this one
• Most prebuilt/cheaper kit keyboards can be kinda hit or miss in terms of stabilizers, its always a good idea to either get original cherry stabs or liberally apply some super lube to reduce rattle and scratchy sounds
• If this is your first time building, know that its inevitable that some of the switches you buy will be faulty. Be sure you over buy by a few and don't go for buying the exact number of switches you need. Also, use https://www.keyboardtester.com/ to check that each switch is working. I usually go row by row.
• I really wish someone gave me some warnings ahead of time about hotswap boards. They are not without their faults. One of those is that sometimes switches will not fully sit on the plate mount and its quite easy to break one of the hotswap connectors by pushing too hard. They aren't frail but they will pop off the PCB easier than you might imagine, and once they do its a massive pain to correct and not for a beginner solderer.

Hope that helps! If you have any other questions I'd be happy to answer!