Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LhFXEb08NKHMJ

Connect to your Mac via USB and then connect an optical audio cable to your beam with the Optical audio adapter Sonos includes with beam.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cl2gEbH1ZCF4P

Is this what your looking for?

Ages ago I messed around with hackintosh and bought a Behringer UCA202 to get audio working.

Little did I know at the time I would prefer using this over any onboard audio I have tried for years to come. It makes a world of difference in audio fidelity compared to onboard audio. Even the best onboard audio can't compete. I no longer pay attention to onboard audio section when picking a motherboard.

I doubt you can buy this unit today, but something similar should exist.

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EDIT: This looks like it could work for you.

This cheap USB dac can act as a transport because it has an optical out. Plug it in via USB, then optical out into your other device.

You can purchase one of these then read the first review where it shows how to swap in some better quality capcitors. The caps are very inexpensive, like $3 or $4. Sounds very nice. Not as good as the DAC in my HK CD player which was close to $1,000 new, but very good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_iPRWEbE89P718

Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bBxqFbQN83PP1

Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pL8ZEbAYE1MAH

If you want to use audio from USB your best option is probably a USB DAC - EXAMPLE. Otherwise, you could try finding a receiver or integrated amp with USB input to the DAC. I would guess they are available, but a little external device can either convert USB to optical or analog for the amplifier to receive.

I literally just googled "usb optical audio output" but yes it seems that does exist(there are a variety of options for these dacs). https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=USB+to+Optical+Audio+Adapter&qid=1593489353&sr=8-3
You can also get this through a pcie card.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=USB+to+Optical+Audio+Adapter&qid=1600796939&sr=8-3

Some older laptops had a dual purpose headphone jack. It'd serve analog and digital data out of that port.

Get a pair of Edifier R1280DB speakers. You can connect your Xbox to the RCA inputs, and your computer to the optical input. The remote can switch between them. If your motherboard doesn't have an optical output, you will need a USB to optical converter like this one: Amazon.com: Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter Convert Digital to Analogue Signal Mini USB DAC PCM: Home Audio & Theater

Looks like both of these products are discounted right now.

Yes, it is very worth the upgrade to larger woofers. As for increase in audio quality, don't get a sound card and get a dac (digital to audio converter) and use the USB or optical input.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&qid=1594153291&sr=8-9

I’m using this. Works great Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

There are much cheaper options for USB-to-Optical converters.

For example, this Signstek USB DAC: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

Otherwise, if you are using HDMI out, you can use an audio extractor as described in /u/Dr_rer_pol's post.

> I've got USB ports I could use but would need an adapter and am worried that will affect the sound quality.

Should be fine; digital to digital. https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/

You could use a USB DAC with a Toslink output. You'll have to finagle your sound settings on the PC but it should definitely be doable.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=USB+to+Optical+Audio+Adapter&qid=1591121440&sr=8-3

Maybe something like this??

My computer tower has an optical-out built in to its onboard sound card, but my laptop doesn't - so for my laptop, I use this for recording to non-NetMD devices : https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=usb+dac&dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&pd_rd_i=B00FEDHHKE&pd_rd_r=b243b981-5845-4438-b1c4-9a31efbe637f&pd_rd_w=HqjMn&pd_rd_wg=w0962&pf_rd_p=1da5beeb-8f71-435c-b5c5-3279a6171294&pf_rd_r=ZDM0QRXVX47V9R0QJH2K&psc=1&qid=1594544872&sr=1-1-70f7c15d-07d8-466a-b325-4be35d7258cc

I also have a JE-320 deck that's hooked up to a CD player and a turntable - so I can make mix discs comprising of tracks from vinyl records, CDs, digital files from my computer, YouTube, Spotify, etc etc

SignsTek USB to Toslink/DAC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_O89ZEb6W0C58P

Results on a few sites show great quality given simplicity and cost, just keep it at CD sampling rates for best results which is just fine for me. The Toslink input just sounds better, more dynamic. All digital into the DSP and crossovers...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_dzVUEb93VQ3ET

Or use a mini Dac. It's cheaper than the sound card.

Hm i wonder if we're seeing different results? For example the first result I get is: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

Bought this to add optical to one of my PCs. Works just fine if you need a way to add to your own.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEDHHKE

I'm glad I could provide some inspiration! I personally went with the Beam for minamlism. I was really torn on going for this or Audioengine A5's. I already had another Beam and a One so I really wanted to expand on that without getting the speakers and an Amp like you said.

Only my PS4 works with it right now but I'm thinking about ordering this USB DAC off Amazon and running it to a 3 input 1 output spdif switch. This way I can switch between the Mac and PS4 that's coming from the out on my A50's.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A3H7GPL9U124TQ&psc=1

I also REALLY want a Sub but my god those are a far reach. $400 feels like a much more proper price but I suspect this is where Sonos is making generous revenue from enthusiasts.

USB to coax on one of them https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

With a USB DAC that has an SPDIF output.
Sound card from Amazon warehouse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B07HCX1NY9/

Hi, I'm planning to buy a stereo receiver/integrated amp and a pair of passive speakers (most likely KEF Q150s). Have 2 questions that I'd like to get inputs before making a decision:

1. What receiver/amp do you recommend? I'd like to stay under $300 but can stretch to maybe 400 if it's really worth the extra. I plan to use this only for 2.0/2.1 music & movies. Sources will be my PC, couple of iphone’s, ipad’s. I currently have the SMSL AD18 and Denon 600NE in mind, but leaning toward the Denon for a longer term use.
2. My PC does not have optical/SPDIF output. I don't have an external DAC. Would it be better to split HDMI output from PC to HDMI + optical using something like this converter, or just buy a cheap USB DAC and use it for digital audio passthrough like this mini DAC?

The R1850DB has a built in DAC. Connect to your PC using optical. Otherwise, look for a USB to optical converter like this and connect to your PC using USB: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-convertidor-decodificador-convertir-2704-circuito/dp/B00FEDHHKE?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Ended up buying a Signstek HiFi USB to Coaxial S/PDIF Converter to convert USB to optical for my desktop amp -- which doesn't have the best DAC in it, but it's better than the one in the Signstek. As the Signstek also has anolog output, I'm using it to feed my headphone amp. Sound isn't quite as good as the Fiio Dac I was using, but it's still pretty good. At least I know if I buy a new USB-only Mac Mini, I'll still have acceptible sound quality.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE

I have senheisser 559 headphones and currently they plugged into my PC through a 1/4 to 3.5mm converter. I was wondering if a DAC would give me better sound quality? I mostly play a game called overwatch which is an FPS (first person shooter), so hearing sounds like foots steps is very important to me as it lets me know where my enemies are. I was really wondering if a device like this ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FEDHHKE?pf_rd_r=ZCQF25VG7JF18JGW3VCE&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee ) would be all I need or if I need something else (or am I already as good as I can get?) The 3.5mm is currently st8 into the motherboard.

like this? https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+to+optical+audio+adapter&qid=1583682468&sr=8-5

Setup that I have. UAC1.0 DAC bypass that I use. Basically it acts as a USB to SPDIF/toslink converter for my actual DAC. But it also has DAC functionality, but it’s not the greatest at that function.

Probably something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE
USB input, toslink output.

I always prefer optical over RCA because optical does not suffer from electrical interference and just seems like more space age tech which makes me feel fancy. That being said, in a pinch RCA does the job just fine, just dont run it next to anything too high power that can cause interference.

Yes, you can get a USB device like this for your PC/Laptop. Many PCs have optical out already, not many laptops.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=usb+optical+audio&qid=1599698599&sr=8-4

For PC I really like VLC for its simplicity, Fubar is much more robust and highly regarded.

https://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.html https://www.foobar2000.org/download

The sound quality coming from your Phone/PC/what ever via RCA is gonna depend on the DAC (digital to analog converter) that comes in it. This is the thing that turns 1s and 0s into something audible. PCs and laptops can add a buzz or hum to your sound because of interference caused by these high power devices. If this happens to you then an external DAC can eliminate that. But you if aren't getting unwanted noise in your signal you probably don't need to bother.

*edit - adding Android notes. As for android, It's probably gonna depend if you want to pay for a service and just use that, like spotify, amazon music, Tidal, YouTube Music Ect. I've tried them all and they are all fine more of less, Tidal usually has a special like a dollar a month for 6 months, a nice way to try it out. Outside payed services/apps I can't recommend much app wise, there are a ton of free ones you can take for for a test drive and see how you like them.

Quality would probably be OK if you run really long analog cables. It's not ideal, but it probably shouldn't make much practical difference.

However, for highest quality, I would use the digital inputs that your Cambridge Audio AXR100 has. (Two TOSLINK and one coax SPDIF input on the back, labeled D1, D2, and D3.)

To do this with the dock you linked, you'd need:

• A USB to TOSLINK (optical) converter.
• A long TOSLINK cable running to the D1 or D2 input on the receiver.

Or:

• A USB to SPDIF (coax, RCA, electrical) converter.
• A long RCA cable running to the D3 input on the receiver.

This Signstek brand converter has both TOSLINK and coax SPDIF outputs, so it should work as the first component in either of the above.

In both cases, the cable run is longer than the standards say you're supposed to have, but you can extend the range with a repeater. This product is actually a converter but should work as a repeater too.

I have zero experience with the two products I've linked to, so they're really more of an example than an endorsement or personal recommendation. However, they both get good enough ratings, so they're probably decent. There are a bunch of other alternatives too.

These are my current headphones and they are the best sounding ones I own.

First but these https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-x-koss-ksc75x-on-ear-headphones which are great sounding on their own.

Now buy these. https://www.amazon.com/Koss-155475-SportaPro-Stereo-Headphones/dp/B00001P505 . Take the band off and replace it with the clips from the first headphones.

Also get donut earpads instead of the stock foam https://www.amazon.com/Cushions-Replacement-Plantronics-Telephone-BEC-DN4/dp/B01EY9LE48

As you know you should drive them with a halfway decent dac, personally use this. It used to be closer to $20 https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE I also have a fiio BTR3 for on the go use which sounds almost as good as the one I just linked

Amazing sound quality, sometimes you forget you're wearing them, no headphone hair

DAC:

• TOPPING D10 $89.
• Lowest budget: Signstek $22.

DAC + Headphone Amps if you don't already have a headphone amp:

• FX-Audio DAC-M6 $46.
• FX-Audio DAC-X6C $49.
• Monoprice $83 has an input toggle switch
• Schitt Fulla $99.

Or a DAC + Speaker Amp + Basic Headphone Amp if you want to add passive speakers: Digital min amps TOPPING MX3 or SMSL AD18

Also check out r/headphoneadvice and r/BudgetAudiophile.