Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA External Hard Drive Lay-Flat Docking Station for 2.5 or 3.5in HDD, SSD [Support UASP] (EC-DFLT)

Yes here it is!

Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA External... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

With an external drive enclosure or docking station sure.

Here's an Amazon link to one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cRjeFbF44YNSR

I have a "soft 3-2-1" scheme going.

Second NAS. It's on my LAN, but in a different room. It's really just my "old NAS" that I "replaced" when I got my most recent unit. Runs de-dupes about once per week using HyperBackup. Not using RAID - it's two very large independent storage pools.

Two large HDDs in a SATA/USB bridges using a mix of USB Copy and HyperBackup. Bring them home from work once per month, run a full backup of everything, then take them back to work and shove them in my cabinet behind a bunch of old accounting textbooks, where I'm confident even the Gestapo would never look... Wish they were farther away, which is why I consider it "soft."

I also use Google Drive for docs I sometimes need while I'm out and about, and OneDrive for work. Both are backed up nightly to the second NAS. Is it stupid to back up public cloud? Maybe, but every time I cut/paste the contents of the NAS destination folder to a new directory not being backed up, my cloud accounts drop back to 0, keeping me out of danger of hitting the quota. So it's more for that than anything, but the app is called "Cloud Backup Sync" or something, so I'm mentioning it.

this is what I've been using - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/

You're going to need a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_AhdZEb5PF6Y0J

Just make sure you get a device that fits your hard drive.

You can take out the hard drive from the laptop that died, connect a hard drive reader to the new computer, and place the hard drive that you now removed. You should be able to open the old hard drive on the new computer just like you would open any external device.

If your new laptop has two ports available for the SSD and the HDD, as well as Windows 10, it might work. If you just want to get your data off the dead laptop then there are SATA docks that would be much easier to use and let you copy data from the drives to your other laptop.

this will work, though you could definitely get them cheaper

Clone your old drive to the new drive. You usually download the cloning software from your replacement drive manufacturer.

How you do this depends on how many drives your laptop can hold internally. The universal cloning setup involves an external USB drive enclosure.

If your laptop will hold both drives at the same time then you will not need the enclosure.

It is a Seagate Momentus 5400.6

I'm not sure how old it is, but more than 5 years I would guess.

You could always use a 3.5 inch and put it in something like this, but a SSD is probably preferable for gaming.

You're not getting enough power from USB. You need a powered drive enclosure - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2

Purchase an external hard drive dock if you want to. That's what I'm using with my Meshify C. Performs well for games and file transfer.

So these are 3.5" hard drives and you want to use them like an external hard drive using a USB 3.0 connection?

~~Why not get enclosures like these? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2~~

Edit: oh I see the HDD already has the USB connection... hmmm interesting.

This drive has a SATA interface, you can use a USB 3.0 dock or enclosure, like this.

would this product work with the Lenovo hard drive? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sxin_5_ac_d_pm?ac_md=2-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkMjAgYW5kICQyNQ%3D%3D-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=external+hard+drive+case&dchild=1&keywords=external+hard+drive+case&pd_rd_i=B00LS5NFQ2&pd_rd_r=e776f604-f61e-44be-9e32-83968394a610&pd_rd_w=NRoIZ&pd_rd_wg=R6cwb&pf_rd_p=0e223c60-bcf8-4663-98f3-da892fbd4372&pf_rd_r=VWBSREC02A9N6VFK5A03&psc=1&qid=1586619334&sr=1-2-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0

Getting a docking station might be cheaper if they don't check it for free. Just open them up, pop out the hard drives, and you're good to go. If they're junk, you don't need to worry about damaging other parts.

If it's not, you might need to reallocate it via disk manager, which kinda sucks if you already have data on it so I suggest doing a backup using an external enclosure:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_S4F4FbZPCX64C

I do hope this won't be the case, but just in case lol. If you do find that this is what is necessary, format to MBR for complete compatibility. Good luck! Let me know what you find out

This is the kind I use...

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2

I apologize I wasn't very clear in my post. What I want to do is externally connect my 512gb ssd so that it works almost as well as an internal ssd. I was looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=sata+to+usb+c+3.1+3.5&qid=1587510297&s=electronics&sr=1-6 and thought maybe it would do the trick?

Yes, like some said already you would have to physically remove the hard drive from your aunt's computer and connect it to a second computer. You could use a hard drive enclosure like the Sabrent Lay Flat Docking Station and plug your aunt's hard drive into the second computer via USB.

Is your aunt's computer a laptop or desktop?

You could also just install Recuva to your aunt's computer if you can't or don't want to buy a hard drive enclosure but you have to make sure no one is using your aunt's computer in the meantime because the more you use it, the more files it will overwrite.

Something like this? It will power the drive from the wall, rather than your computer, so it should be fine. Connects to your computer via USB.

I would guess the HDD is on it's way out, I would try plugging it in to another PC (With something like this, or plug it internally), and try to transfer any files manually.

Sata Dock

M.2 Enclosure

Thank you so very much for taking the time to respond.

It is almost certainly the external USB case I purchased this week to house the HDD I use to clone my MacintoshHD every other day.

I got this one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it plugged into a powered Anker USB hub.

I have just unplugged it and will see if that is the problem.

There are enclosures you can buy. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=KL70UROVEHWA&dchild=1&keywords=usb+hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1589577633&sprefix=usb+hard+drive+%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-3

New SSD's die due to Windows 10 installation

Howdy tech supporters, this is my first post here so excuse me for any formatting errors or such. I will try to keep this short as I don't want to add useless information, but I want to give you guys the full rundown of what is happening. With that said, on to the problem!

These are the following specs of the 'new machine' that's receiving the hard drive upgrade.

OS: Windows 10 Pro (x64)

CPU: i5-650

GPU: AMD Radeon HD 7470

RAM: 8GB (2x4) of DDR3 SDRAM

MOBO: INTEL P55/H55 w/ H55 (IbexPeak DH) chipset

HDD: WD5000AV 500GB

I recently purchased a new SSD to install on a computer running an older HDD. I installed the drive on the PC and successfully installed Windows 10 from a USB. Everything was working fine until I transferred the old data from the previous disk onto the new one (I used MiniTool Partition Wizard). Upon booting the PC I started getting problems with the drive not being recognized, not even in the BIOS. I thought I had maybe copied over a virus or I accidentally transferred the old OS files onto the new disk causing it to malfunction. I tried formatting the disk by connecting it to my main PC using an external hard drive docking station and disk management. However, I couldn't even initialize the drive and I kept getting the error "The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error" which means the drive is dead or about to die (keep in mind this is a new drive and I didn't mishandle it in any way that could've caused it to have a hardware failure). After countless hours of research and failed attempts at making the drive work I took a big L and decided to send it back and get a replacement. I wish the problem could've ended here, but this is where it really started.

After a few days, my drive replacement gets here and I install it following the previous steps. However, before starting the Windows installation, I like to partition my drive's using MiniTool Partition and create a dedicated partition for the OS, while also making sure the drive is configured correctly and working, which it was. Upon finishing, I install the drive on the new PC and begin the Windows installation which to my surprise I get the SAME PROBLEM, again, however this time I didn't even have the chance to install Windows on it or transfer any kind of data onto it. The drive is not recognized, not even in the BIOS and when connected to my main PC and trying to initialize it I get the same hardware error message as with the previous 'broken' drive. I have tried countless solutions from all of the Reddit threads that were similar to this, I have tried different software programs and their respective guides to try to get the drive initialized or get any error codes other than the previous one but nothing has helped me so far and I'm still at square 1.

These are just a few of the things I have tried that I can remember at the moment:

• Checked the SATA ports and SATA cable connectors by using known working ports/cables.
• Disconnected all non-essential components and went through OS installation.
• Ran Windows memory diagnostic tool on both machines with the drive plugged-in directly and through the docking bay.
• Tried different solutions using diskpart, disk management, and chkdsk.
• Analyzed the drive using CrystalDiskInfo (did not show up) and related software.

Some additional thoughts: I wouldn't know why the installation of Windows or any kind of software related problem would cause a physical hardware issue to occur unless it somehow caused the drive to overheat or short circuit which I am not aware of. This is also not my first installation of any OS and certainly not my first time handling drives, I am sure that I couldn't have caused the drive failure due to mishandling it or related. This leads me to believe that there is an underlying cause making the drives to malfunction and not allowing Windows to write/read off the drive and causing it to spit out a 'hardware error' without the drive being physically damaged.

My brain is fried at this point and writing this post has given me a headache, so I will end it here and hope I did not miss critical pieces of information. I don't know what else to do other than to repeat this whole thing again, which may or may not lead to the same results. I hope to hear from your guy's thoughts and see if we can figure out why this is happening before having to do it again.

Hey PC peeps,

I am having an issue trying to install this 16tb hard drive I bought internally to my pc.

I was able to initialize it and set it up using an external dock on my pc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5NFQ2/

But when I try to set it up internally and plug it into my SATA motherboard, the disk management stops recognizing it correctly, and I'm unable to access the drive.

Does anyone know what could be wrong or how I can fix this to use my 16tb hard drive internally? Preferably without formatting it again.

My Pc Specs https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RVxkvV

What are some requirements of your storage?

1 - Do all drives need to be accessible at all times? Or are you fine to swap from drive to drive as needed?

2 - What kind of data/traffic? Are you archiving and moving on? Lots of reads, but not lots of writes? (Media collection). Lots of writes and lots of read (Content creator)

3 - Is data loss ok if a drive fails?

If you have the drives already, cheapest is to get a USB HDD docking station. You can eject and insert a drive as needed. You might also want a few HDD storage cases to keep them safe.

If you don't have drives yet, buy external USB drives as others in this thread suggested and use a hub to connect them. External drives are cheaper than internal drives

something like this might be helpful

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_5?crid=VRA6R0NI4QFT&keywords=full+size+external+hard+drive+enclosure&qid=1580488583&sprefix=full+size+drive+en%2Caps%2C206&sr=8-5

From reading your other comments it sounds like you need an external hard drive enclosure. Here's one with good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-carga-externo-compatible-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/

Get an external USB adapter/dock for the drive. Take it out of the PC, use the adapter and plug it into another PC via USB.

Something like this would work:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/

I'd recommend transforming it into external storage - with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=rack+for+external+hdd&qid=1588088462&sr=8-2

portable cases tend to deliver not enough power for even basic laptop HDD

You can try picking up something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/

If your PC or laptop still won't recognize your HDD plugged into this adapter, I would say its dead, at least enough where it wont be usable anymore.

what he is saying is to take the Hard drive from your PS4, and buy an enclosure. one of these https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_3?_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Computer+Hard+Drive+Enclosures&qid=1605554985&s=pc&sr=1-3&ts_id=160354011

just for reference, it gives power to the hard drive to keep it active and it keeps it nice and safe.

Staggeringly unlikely. This form factor has a well specified location for the SATA connector and is built to just slot in, and laptops don't have room for cables running round. If you want to check, you can shine a light in through the bottom. You'll see a corner connector right in there, hard to describe, but it's a small rectangle with some wire-bits likely visible depending on lighting.

Laptop 2.5" SATA is a very mature standard. If you'd like to see something with the same, check this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ although you see a 3.5" drive, that supports also a 2.5" drive, some of the pictures show it nicely. It's the same physical connector as the older 3.5" drive standard, which was extraordinarily robust through the.... late 90's? The standard worked great through the HDD and early Flash era, and has only been superseded by M.2 for smaller size, or 2.5" NVMe for performance ( same physicals ).

I've run Linux just fine from 2.0 USBs, the file transfer is slower than another form of data saving, so if you invest in a high speed USB you probably wont have any problems. Though, you can use an external HDD, just get a Hard drive enclosure and you can buy a regular Hdd and utilize it through USB. Enclosures aren't just for HDDs either, you can get external M.2 Enclosures for even faster data transfer. Something like this enclosure and this HDD, or whatever enclosure(HDD/SSD/M.2) and storage device(HDD/SSD/M.2)

Don't worry about backing up Windows 10 on a new desktop. Like most computers that come with Windows pre-installed, the license is linked to your motherboard. If anything catastrophic ever happens to your storage drives and you have to reformat them, you can just reinstall windows https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4000735/windows-10-reinstall and it'll work fine.

If you're just looking for more storage, the 250GB drive is an M.2 SSD, and it's attached directly to the motherboard. No need to replace it, really. Just keep it as your boot drive, and buy and install a much cheaper SATA SSD for storage. I don't know about your setup, but a lot of alienwares ship with M.2 boot drives and standard hard drives. A SATA SSD for storage will make everything load a lot faster, but M.2s > SATA SSDs >>>>> standard hard drives. If you install the SATA SSD, you might even consider completely removing the standard hard drive that came with the computer, buying a cheap external docking station, and using that for future system backups. If you ever get hit by something like Ransomware, it would be really good to have backups on an external drive that isn't constantly connected to your computer. For that, Macrium Reflect or Acronis are good options.

Here is what I did:

Get a safe which is either small enough to hide or heavy and large enough to require more than one person or the use of tools (handcart, bolted, ect) to move. Make sure it is rated well for waterproof and fireproofing. Realistically, fireproof safes only hold out some time -- what you want is the waterproofing for flood or that big firehose that may drench your house/apartment.

In it, store backups (I would recommend a seagate archive drive or similar, and just connect via a dock, however even a small usb would work) and a hardware 2fa solution like a yubikey. Additionally, store any documents like passports, SS cards, birth certificates, an print outs of backup codes/2FA recover keys. Handwrite them -- don't print unless you are sure you know how to get rid of your printer/computer's memory.

Your data backup should include keepass, and possibly some veracrypt containers that have sensitive information regarding accounts. You can keep two yubikeys, a backup in the safe and one on your person for 2fa.

tl;dr: keep a hard copy of the 2fa in a secure place and a usable place -- either do this by just paper or a hardware solution like a yubikey.

To be honest; your best bet is to buy an external enclosure for like $20-$30, and then buying a hard drive yourself and installing it. Really really simple. Then you can connect to it via a USB cable.

The only reason I say this is because you can pick out your hard drive, and buy you a 7200RPM in the process instead of a 5400RPM. There's a huge difference in loading / install times.

Sure the price will be a bit more. I found:

Western Digital 4TB WD Black Performance Internal Hard Drive

It's 1TB less, but still a great deal, and a better performing hard drive.

Then you can pick whatever enclosure looks nice to you ( https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hard+drive+enclosure&sr=8-4 )

And you're good to go. I provided a link to one as an example, but there are hundreds. Some have lights, some are USB C, some have a little fan inside of it to keep it cool. It's all based on your preference.

Western Digital Black hard drives are the ones I use because they're some of the best preforming HDDs.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/747338/Fujitsu-Esprimo-Mobile-V6505.html?page=24#manual

How to remove the hard drive instructions.

Then a hard drive dock order from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hard+drive+dock&qid=1587455022&sr=8-4

Here's one example of what you can do from a quick browse of ebay/amazon:

$44 * 3 = $132 : Three 4MP cameras

$40 Raspberry Pi

$45 1TB HDD

$23 HDD dock

$15 POE switch

= $255 for cameras, compute, and storage, bought within the US (no waiting 4-6 weeks for parts from China)

Add on maybe $20-$30 for cabling, power adapters, a microSD card, and any other bits and pieces

These are ethernet cameras, but POE so you have a single ethernet cable going to each of them for both power & data.

If your budget is tight, you can save by buying 2nd hand parts, buying parts from China, picking a cheaper Pi board, choosing basically any other camera that has an RTSP output, etc.

If it's important you should get another drive and back it up https://www.newegg.com/western-digital-blue-wd5000aakx-500gb/p/N82E16822136769 20 dollars. how much did your motherboard and cpu cost. Intell is usually expensive. This drive might not be the top. but, western digital has a good name and it would only be holding the data until it is back up and running. Of course if you want better you have to spend more money.

That being said if you go to Windows settings > update and security > recovery > then go to reset. You can choose to keep your files. But, it is advised to back up this data on another drive before doing this. because shit happens.

But, in my experience you are not going to fix the problem without a reset. It requires you to reset binaries and things in the configs of the system and the programs you are using. I am not a computer "expert" but my assumption of what is going on when something like this happens is something in the program is trying to access a port or a channel that was on the previous board that isn't there anymore. So fixing it is beyond my abilities.

You can even buy a Kit that lets you use that 20 dollar HDD as an external drive.https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Lay-Flat-Docking-EC-DFLT/dp/B00LS5NFQ2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=external+hard+drive+kit&qid=1586839984&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B002OV1VJW/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=external+hard+drive+kit&qid=1586839984&sr=8-8