Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA)
- Connectors: USB Type-A, Stereo output jack, Mono microphone-input jack.
- Driverless for Windows 98SE/ME/2000/XP/Server 2003/Vista/7/8/Linux/Mac OSX.
- USB bus-powered, no external power required.
- Reverse Compliant with USB Audio Device Class Specification 1.0
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Reddit Posts and Comments
0 posts • 138 mentions • top 50 shown below
4 points • sirafiinikkusu
USB 2.0 audio
i was trying to get external speakers setup for my dex station and the speakers have an aux plug and the dex pad is lacking the jack. i went and got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
unfortunately i have been unable to get the phone to recognize there is an audio source this way. has anyone had any success or do i need to spring for a new monitor that has an aux jack built in?
3 points • super-porp-cola
Issue 1 is weird, never seen anything like it. Maybe plug your PC into a TV and see if that issue still happens?
For issue 2, I just dealt with a similar thing, and here's what I'd try:
Does your mobo's I/O panel on the back of the case have a mic slot? If so, try it. If it doesn't work, this is very weird and almost certainly a driver issue.
Are you absolutely, positively, 100% sure the front panel connector for the mic is plugged into the mobo, and that the connector is oriented correctly?
Is it possible for you to disassemble your front panel and inspect your mic port? It might just be physically broken.
BTW, don't buy a USB headset if things don't work. Buy something like this off Amazon for $8. Unless you're an audiophile with $250 headphones this will be fine.
3 points • _fortune
You can grab something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
It will create another output in Windows, so you can output one thing to your headphones and another out the back of your PC.
2 points • tomgabriele
Cheap USB Sound Cards
In my home office, I have my personal desktop and work laptop hooked up to my one monitor, with a little USB selector for the keyboard and mouse receiver. I think the best/easiest way to switch the speakers (cheap dell 2.1 computer speakers with a single input) will just be to get a USB sound card to put on the USB switch as well.
I only need stereo, and absolute quality doesn't need to be high. Low latency would be good to, if that's ever an issue with USB sound cards.
Any thoughts on this $8 Sabrent one?
2 points • dtallee
2 points • toymachinesh
Yeah, Sabrent makes a similar thing
2 points • DoublePlusThink
ThisThis one worked without any additional config on a pi 4.
2 points • fursink
The cheapest way to get independent cueing is something like this little usb audio stick - less than $10. Set the cue to this stick and set the master to your computer output. When I first started djing in ableton I tried this route before committing to a larger setup. I'm pretty sure it will work in rekordbox (may need to use an aggregate sound device workaround)
2 points • Laxativelog
I have absolutely no clue I'm afraid.
If you dont want to tear your whole build apart yet you could get a super cheap audio card to test it to be sure.
That way you still get to use your PC in the meantime.
2 points • sidewinder15599
The adapter will just punt the problem down the line. You'll basically be splitting then recombining the signal, so I don't see that working. You may be able to use a usb breakout unit, though. Something like this.
2 points • RedRyder760
If it has a built-in preamp, you could connect it directly into an input on a PC. Desktop computers should have a line-in. A laptop could maybe use a USB adapter like this one on Amazon with an RCA to 3.5 mm adapter.
2 points • JamesIsAwkward
Honestly there are USB soundcards you can buy for like 10 bucks with microphone input, I suggest you use that unless you are just trying to tinker and learn!
1 points • veni-veni-veni
- THAT'S a very positive outlook! Excellent! Really wish you the best and hope more opportunities open up.
- Yeah, hopefully just RAM. Easier to return, I think. I had a bad mobo once (MSI). Cost $30 to RMA. Swore off MSI since then...With the audio, maybe a USB card will be the fix if it does turn out to be the mobo port.
- Ah, stretching. I should try that. [Smacks head].
1 points • roboboi
Buy this and use it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uCU3Eb0GPPP25
1 points • 2old2care
Your internal sound would work fine, but it would require the right adapter cables. A USB sound card designed for the purpose would be cheaper and easier.
1 points • cupojoe6789
If you just need the audio to work without buying a whole new mobo maybe try a cheap external sound card? Something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sxin_5_ac_m_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDEw-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=external+sound+card&dchild=1&keywords=external+sound+card&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=60a36445-931d-4095-8d84-3823d93631df&pd_rd_w=6nnEv&pd_rd_wg=MK7aM&pf_rd_p=14719209-e059-46b3-be1a-859d16f01f7e&pf_rd_r=6352VF70XQNJZQ93NV6C&psc=1&qid=1589328361&sr=1-1-3f74d940-526b-436f-a83d-f486577edf4d
It probably wont be the highest quality audio, but it's cheap and would probably work if that's all you need.
1 points • jephthai
Direwolf is a non sequitur if you're talking about FT8, JS8, and other digital modes.
Depending on your transceiver, this might actually be really easy and cheap. I use one of these USB sound cards along with my FT-891 HF transceiver.
Since the FT-891 provides a USB CAT interface, I don't need to wire up anything for the PTT. Some people have also used VOX features to avoid needing to add complexity for a PTT signal, if CAT control isn't available.
You have to be somewhat careful about audio levels, both output and input, since you don't have some of the extra sophistication that the Signalink gives you. Also, there is no isolation, so there is the potential for extra noise and/or ground loops, etc.
I have not run into any issues with a raspberry pi running either my FT-891 or my Xiegu G90, but YMMV, and it's worth considering that there is a reason for the extra price and complexity in the Signalink.
In fact, I have a Signalink, but it's bulky, adds complexity, and I'm not personally impressed with the choice to use trimmer pots for the level adjustment. I don't imagine I'll use my Signalink for anything until I either run into issues, or get a rig without CAT control.
1 points • scor6879
So something like this would be all I need? I just want to make sure since its non refundable
1 points • Digital504
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WTJ1EbYWP4KJD
1 points • 180513
This is a cheap option:
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aoHLEb84P8WWK
1 points • -UserRemoved-
Your PC has 2 jacks for mic and headphones. If one breaks, you can't just have the other do both.
The easy/cheap fix is to just get a USB adapter like this one.
1 points • iamofnohelp
Usb sound cards
First hit on Amazon.
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S-wcEb5CCQ3PE
1 points • DJPhil
Microphones put out very small signals that can require amplification by a factor of 1000 or more. Part of the mic jack includes a little contact that closes when there's nothing inserted, and it's purpose is to short out the signal so noise doesn't get in. This contact isn't closing properly and the mic input is acting as an antenna, picking up internal electrical interference or radio interference with a long antenna (the mic) plugged in.
Full solution is to find a nerd to desolder and clean or replace the mic jack. If the jack in on a small daughterboard in your particular laptop it may be a cheap part swap, but it's often soldered directly to the motherboard.
Temporary fix would be to mute and/or disable the mic within the OS and use a cheap USB soundcard (~$8US) as your mic input instead.
Hope that helps!
1 points • podboi
That's an expensive way to try and fix jack interference.
There are USB dongles that have mic and audio jacks, try those first. 7 bucks.
1 points • Akhilesh_Maji
1 points • I_HAVE_SEEN_CAT
I use this for my mic since my motherboard can not output enough power through the jack for my mic. It makes my heaphones too loud though so I have them plugged into the heahphone jack and my mic into the usb.
1 points • WizardsWizard
I'd go with a USB soundcard.
1 points • SirBostonTBagParty
Try this its what I use and I have it plugged into my Monitor.
1 points • mkrzywonski
I use these and they work fine.
1 points • ArgentiEtAuri
Check that the front port is plugged into the motherboard header properly, maybe. If it's never worked, that could be it and would be an easy fix.
That said, yeah, a $5-10 adapter would be perfect. Just get one from a reliable brand like Sabrent's (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IRVQ0F8).
1 points • SimpleStatement
I used to have a similar problem to what you're describing. When I plugged my speakers into my computers 3.5mm audio port I used to get this hissing whine noise. After a little research I found that it could be either be dirty power from my house or it was static from my motherboard. Never did figure out the exact culprit but I'm leaning towards my motherboard being the issue. Despite that, I did find a fix. Using a usb to 3.5mm adapter fixed my problem. Something like this. It was a pretty inexpensive purchase so i went for it and was gladly surprised.
1 points • AlsleumMusic
This is mine, I'm quite happy with it: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=aux+to+usb&qid=1594765992&sr=8-5
1 points • Chaseshaw
certainly could be drivers. how old is the macbook? windows 10 takes 2 gigs of ram for example just to barely run itself. Just windows and chrome running we're in the neighborhood of needing 6-8 gigs to make youtube or netflix reasonable.
I'm also curious about "after a little bit" -- are you gaming? running google Chrome (which takes an ABSURD amount of memory these days)? I wondered if over the course of gaming, something got hot and fans turned on, and the electricity heading to the fan caused the crackle.
at home I have a similar problem but with a desktop and solve it with one of these https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8
other things I've seen happen:
there's a break in the aux jack or in the cord. sitting to game means you sit at a different angle or are leaned back in a different way and then you hear the crackle from the break.
cell phone in pocket or on desk. t-mobile-att phones operate on a spectrum that causes interference in some unshielded audio devices.
headphones/speakers are bad and either need shielding or replaced.
1 points • milotrain
I have one of these and it’s fine. You’d need to make a cable and keep your runs short because you are going balanced to unbalanced, but it’s less than $10
1 points • jcr4990
Not sure if your project uses the microusb port of the pi zero or not but i recently did a project with a pi zero that needed sound and I wasn't using the USB port so the easiest option for me was getting a cheap USB soundcard off Amazon and plugging a cheapie pair of computer speakers into it. I looked into other options via GPIO and they were rather complicated comparatively. This was also cleaner since I was using some GPIO wires already and the last thing I needed was more of a wiring mess to deal with.
Here's the one I used: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
1 points • throw_away_3690
You probably just hav see bad headphone jacks, if even one of those headphones work on your phone then it's the jacks there isn't anything you can do except get a new case or motherboard.
Edit sorry I was wrong: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_kSIyFbYAFASE6 you can get this
1 points • ZeroAnimeKnowledge
What USB connector? Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=usb+to+audio+jack&qid=1587904075&sr=8-1
1 points • kc2syk
Please use clean amazon links to prevent your messages from automatically being flagged as spam by reddit.
1 points • rileycw4
Pro and the USB adapter just boosts the microphone sound. Unless you want it super loud you shouldn’t need an amp. I have one because I use it with my ps4 too.
1 points • Alortania
That or one with both in/out in it, yeah~
1 points • DirtyPeppermintPatty
1 points • MGsubbie
You can get a cheap USB adapter like this one and switch between the two outputs in Windows itself. Just make sure you get one that splits microphone and headphone if your headphones have split cables, or a single plug if it's just the one audio jack.
1 points • S_H_G
Odd, the default DLI installation has the audio over HDMI enabled and working; you can bypass the HDMI with a USB sound dongle (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?) that is needed for Android installations.
The software solution requires editing the directory /etc/pulse/default.pa to allow editing. First you need to get into the Terminal to use the Command Line Interface; it is a menu item or can be brought up by pressing: "CTRL+ALT+T" then type "sudo chmod 777 /etc/pulse/default.pa" I believe. Then you should be able to edit the file. I don't routinely work in Linux either and use guides on how to do things
1 points • daniska_project
The antenna and the panel-mount connector are a BNC type. They came off an old FM transmitter I had. Then I just soldered an SMA connector to it. For the soundcard, I used this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ghEaFb81HZ3W3 from Amazon. And I wired the mic and headphone to a dual plug that the radio came with. All you really need is a soldering iron. Lol
1 points • cenorexia
This should work:
Plug one headset into the controller — this will be your headset.
Plug the other one into the console itself (either via USB, if it has its own USB cable, or with the use of an adapter like this) — this will be your wife's headset. When you plug it in and the PS4 asks who's using it select your wife's profile.
Then you both can join the same party and you both can talk.
1 points • Lucas-0113
I have no experience with these usb adapters, but it seems pretty convenient to me.
1 points • mozadak
Sabrent USB External Stereo Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play No Drivers Needed. (AU-MMSA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_bOH3FbERKCJDH
1 points • tiedyeturtle69
Thank you so much for the helpful response! Will this work?
1 points • Haxan_K
if you have other usb ports that work, you can use this