Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games

I started out looking at Teensys people have used, then i found an extremely simple way. There are tons and tons of usb encoders on amazon and ebay for people that make new-old school gaming boxes to play arcade games.

Basically just solder up switches and plug into the encoder then plug encoder into pc. Instantly works like any other joystick.

https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Codificador-Reyann-USB-joystick-cl%C3%A1sico/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-drs1_0?cv_ct_cx=usb+encoder&dchild=1&keywords=usb+encoder&pd_rd_i=B00UUROWWK&pd_rd_r=9da19563-4d46-43ed-92b8-c6752b74c40c&pd_rd_w=28VJS&pd_rd_wg=Ul6VC&pf_rd_p=2d4d1e60-67f3-4b7d-917e-b07e7446b9ac&pf_rd_r=0W7Y7KEZ336J26K4SCQJ&psc=1&qid=1601918951&sr=1-1-d7c5a1b3-0934-41ba-b86e-21e5a37a4fcf

Correct. I always try not to pull on the wire but I suppose that’s what I ended up doing like a dumbass.

Even though I do sincerely appreciate your advice, I feel more comfortable actually order new wires. Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder Pc to Joystick for Mame Jamma & Other Pc Fighting Games https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qu3fFb4ERKBN0

https://www.amazon.com/Codificador-Reyann-USB-joystick-cl%C3%A1sico/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+encoder&qid=1593645764&sr=8-3 These are the ones I used, the stock buttons will connect to them without any modification.

I recommend sourcing a zero delay usb encoder instead of an Arduino. Used that for my DIY pad instead and was easier and cheaper to work with. For example, this one.

You can get a plastic gate for the joystick that makes it only capable of 4 way movement. You don't get the solid shift feeling but there is an audible button click when you shift so it gives you enough to know when you hit a shift or not. Not a bad way to go if you don't want to drop a ton of cash on a shifter. 20 bucks shipped for a cheap joystick and a usb programmable interface.

It also allows you to add a button box pretty easily using the other slots on the board. usb encoder I've been using this one for about a year without any problems.

Thanks, so found this on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=zero+delay+usb+encoder&qid=1596724662&sprefix=zero+delay+usb&sr=8-3

obviously the Pac-Man has only one set of controls so I would only need one of these encoders. Figure all of the games I would have on here are one player or two player taking turns. So would this work for both player one or player two alternating? Also I assume I would still have to add four more buttons for Start or Coin If I plan to use the existing buttons on the Pac-Man for a shoot/jump button.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_svjlFbGZJNTD5

This is the one I plan on using. What's your ideal setup looking like as far as must have buttons go then ?

Picked this up for $30 today... Seller riped his board for all of the non-original switches, so I have some wiring to do. Will this suffice for the project? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JNUmFbT8PXF9P

Using two of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UUROWWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you really want something really easy and don't need more than 12 inputs, you can do what I did: Use the board for an arcade controller, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK You might not even need to solder at all!

Thank you! That's probably a good way to go.

I do have my Raspberry PI 3 B+ mostly set up and ready to go. I have some NES/SNES/console games on it and just started figuring out how to get a couple MAME things going, which is what started this idea. Other than maybe learning more about MAME more and why some things don't seem to load, what more should I be looking to get ready on the Pi itself?

Also, is this an example of the arcade controls you're talking about? Is it safe to assume I'd need one of those per stick/button set I wanted (2 sticks would be 2 of these kits)? And are the actual buttons/sticks generically compatible with boards like these?

Thanks again, and one more "thanks" for any info you have regarding these new questions.

Double check where the wires are plugged into the board. Here is a link to an encoder on amazon. It has a picture of an encoder with the button layout.

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

How we made it: Yes, it’s a USB arcade encoder (link below). We crimped some flat round terminal connectors on the end of a bungee cord, and ran them through a hole in the wooden mounting block so that the bungee pulls a SPST momentary switch. The connectors also make for a quick disconnect for getting it out of your way. I had my son design a box we could 3D print for the switch and encoder, but you could just mount it to a board (or the bottom of your chair). The encoder shows up as a joystick, and I assigned the Ctrl+E+E+E key press in voice attack so that we only have to pull once to activate it (ED needs an option for this). Since it’s a keyboard command, it works in all planes by default, and it’s great for VR! Encoder: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SdnkEbJ3XFQ66

I used this encoder

Reyann Zero Delay Arcade USB Encoder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5F6JEbK05ZPAZ

It’s cheap and I have not had any problems with it.

The thing to note is that I have a small cabinet with a 27 inch screen and the included wires for the buttons were just barely long enough, so if your cabinet any bigger you might have to buy some longer wires

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx3-JhT4X_M&t=52s

https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

Yep, that looks like this board: https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=zero+delay+arcade+usb+encoder&qid=1595727512&sr=8-3

Interesting. Do you have any opinions on the spinners from Ultimarc? I think I want my spinner to have a large top.

Also, I think I installed one of those cheap USB encoders you're talking about: this one from Amazon. If this thing sucks, what should I use instead?

Basically, you just need a kit, which you can order from many sites. It contains the buttons and stick. Then you just need a USB interface. The rest is up to you. Want to make a custom mahogany frame box? If you have the skills, do it. Want to slap the controls on a Scooby-Doo Lunch box and call it a day, you can do that too.

Add pinball to my cabinet

I want to add pinball to my cabinet, but I am having trouble mapping controls for Pinball Arcade, Pinball FX3 and Visual Pinball X. I have multiple encoders attached to my system ( GP-Wiz 40, Reyann USB Encoder, and a Howler LED Controller). I've tried using x360ce and Xpadder, but cant get either Pinball Arcade or Pinball FX3 to register the button presses, and I do not see an option to change which controller Visual Pinball uses. Any tips, thoughts, things to try?

There is no joystick, it's a controller board.

I could probably map keyboard keys to do the same thing but this will be much cooler and I won't have to map multi-key combinations that I won't remember or have a keyboard nearby taking up desk space.

I'm going to mount it in this case so I'll have something similar to your saitek peripheral, but no joystick, just buttons and switches.

The reyann is great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others like the single voltage/signal connector as well

>Encoder- https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=zero+delay+usb+encoder&qid=1597437877&sr=8-3

That's the encoder I used. > > >Would this USB encoder work with the existing buttons on an arcade 1up machine??

Yes. It works, but you have to cut off the joystick wires and recreate the ends using a 2.54mm JST Crimper connection kit. I paid $30 for mine.

But I've done 7 joysticks with it now, so I came out ahead. Your addiction to multiplayer A1Ups may make the math work out differently for you.

>The description says it comes with a wiring harness for the joystick.

It does, but you either have to cut and resolder to the joysticks, or just reuse the existing wires. I decided to reuse the existing wires.

>My current joystick has 2 four pin connectors so that would not work in its current form.

Correct. It does not work without the JST connector kit.

>Or is it easier just to buy a new joystick than attempt to rewire the stock one > >Joystick. https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Arcade-Classic-Competition/dp/B01N2G0H1T/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=arcade+joystick&qid=1597438440&sprefix=arcade+joys&sr=8-4

It seems like most people on this sub buy new sticks at the same time because they're cheap and a nice upgrade.

Personally, I'm really glad I got the JST Crimper and connector kit, because I also used it to fix some of the button wires that got loosened or broken during the change over.

I also typically use it to create custom longer wires in order to add coin buttons to the front J panel of the arcade.

Lately I've been running RS through my TV which makes it a real pain to have to go back to the keyboard repeatedly. Since I was planning on building a pedalboard for my growing collection of pedals and decided to use leftover wood/materials to build a baby brother footswitch controller of sorts. It was a pretty straightforward project that just took a bit of woodworking and wiring know-how. I used this post as a guide but I wanted to be able to control everything so four footswitches wouldn't cut it so I built a custom enclosure to match my pedalboard and house 14 footswitches. I used this USB encoder and hooked up the buttons to correspond to every button of an X box controller other than pressing the L and R joystick. I definitely wanted a cleaner look than having the Realtone cable and controller USB coming from different boards so I hardwired a instrument pass-through into the controller and a USB jack to allow both cables to pass from the same side. I despise the RS tuner so I have the bypass out of the TU-3 hardwired into the side of the pedal board which I then patch into the controller. With all of this I can hook up my guitar and split the signal to both my amp and RS and I never have to move cables around. It was a real fun project and so far it's been super convenient.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4159591

Check this out. I redid part of it to remove the "table clamp" hole that I found absolutely useless. and to let screws go all the way through on the right side for a stronger build. The original can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3629842

It has more instructions and whatnot than my version. Basically you want some buttons, toggle switches, etc, and a usb controller (like this: Link) and you suddenly have a bunch more buttons, and even some cool options like a toggle switch that lowers your cargo scoop

Edit: I just realized that this may be referring to xbox players using this hotas. My addition may be slightly less useful, though I have found that just printing one of these to have as a spacer between throttle and stick makes it much more comfortable for long flight times

DSD.. Dereck Spears Designs makes a killer button box. Great components, solid build, reasonable prices.

If you want to save some cash.. they are easy to build as well for less than $35

Joystick board w/ connector cables...https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=joystick+board&qid=1605113146&sr=8-4

plastic project box...

12 momentary push buttons of your choice. https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Momentary-Button-Switch-Colors/dp/B07F24Y1TB/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=push+buttons&qid=1605113214&sr=8-4

Details

• The framework is the Minitendo kit from Haruman Customs. It's a great kit, easy to put together and a great all around experience.
• The insides are:
  Raspberry Pi 3b
  Acer AL1516 monitor (rotated 90 degrees) A USB speaker Speaker
  A lightbar Lightbar
  An HDMI to VGA converter Converter
  Reyann USB Encoder Encoder
  Sanwa 4way/8way joystick (set to 4way, you don't want anything else for DK)
  Suzo Happ buttons
  A power strip modified and wired into a fused Power Switch
• The art was printed by a local imaging company and came out really well. The control panel is something I modified for my button layout with a free trial of Adobe Illustrator
• The bezel/marquee holder I made out of a piece of H moulding I bought from Lowes.
• Miscellanous trips to Lowes also resulted in a lock on the back cabinet door, hinges, etc.
• Here's a link to an older Imgur post I made about the process, a lot of things have changed since then and I can provide updated pictures if anyone wants them. Project

Yes, all buttons need a USB encoder if you're going to use it with a PC/Pi. These buttons are using the encoder that came with the Tron flight stick.

In the case of the eclipse buttons from DIY Retro Arcade, you'll need a harness that daisy chains the .25" LED contacts with the 12V AC adapter that came with the Arcade1Up to power the LED's. https://www.diyretroarcade.com/products/power-wiring-harness-up-to-16-arcade-led-lighted-buttons-w-barrel-connector?variant=32334075428999

For the USB encoder, any one should work as long as long as your quick disconnect cables work with 0.187" (4.7mm) terminals. https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK/

Sorry for the delay, was playing with my dog :)

Here ya go:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3U9V8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FyN-Eb0NX2R83

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ62BJJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CzN-EbSPM474V

https://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-10-in-x-8-in-Polycarbonate-Sheet-31-GE-XL-1/202090134

(not necessary, decorate as you please :p) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OXCIB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TCN-EbE8NAXDW

Things I had at home:

1” pine board, 1/2” plywood, rubber washers(used as anti skid feet), hot glue, screws, nails, drill with 1/2” and 1/8” bits

Lmk if there’s anything else I can help with

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Rht0FbNPZHWC5

The monitor connection. Also has output for audio

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UUROWWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Yjt0FbFEY61WA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Usb controller board to hook up your buttons.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0DO631/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Hkt0FbQ0HWFDZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Replacement stick.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V0PDIDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_klt0FbGD65WZT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Decide what buttons you like.

Then you will need a raspberry pi.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPLPBS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_kmt0Fb4C795R2

Good luck!

I have done this. You set it up just like any other control panel. You only need 1 spinner. If you lay it out right and get the "right" (cheap) joysticks, you only need 1 usbencoder. After initial mapping with EmulationStation, you use the Mame Menu to map particular controls for particular games.

I can provide more details later. Gotta go right now.

UPDATES

I'm going to add updates here as my time allows and as the thoughts occur to me.

- Ultrastick 360 flight stick. Get this. I have the cheapo flight stick. Sucks but was easy to setup.

- Sanwa clone. Get this. If it doesn't come with a square gate, get a square gate. Rotate the square into a diamone for 4-way. https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Arcade-Classic-Competition/dp/B01N2G0H1T

- Spinner. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5WJ7BC

- Trackball. https://www.amazon.com/ThunderStick-LED-Arcade-trackball-TS-UTB01/dp/B07T1FQFRM

- 12in1 adapter board. Needed to connect above Spinner and Trackball to USB. Only need one.

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH

- Buttons. https://www.diyretroarcade.com/index.php/one-piece-design-28mm-concave-buttons-switch-for-arcade-machine.html

- USB encoder. https://www.amazon.com/Reyann-Arcade-Encoder-Joystick-Fighting/dp/B00UUROWWK

NOTE: I will not and cannot address your specific, numbered questions above because your conception of how this works is very wrong. No offense or insult intended. The questions are sort of like "How do I install Windows 10 on my toaster-oven?"