PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema

you need a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) like this

If your tv has analog audio out (rca or headphone), you’d need the appropriate cable and then plug it in to any of the RCAs (red/white connectors) on the receiver. If your TV doesn’t have analog out, but does have digital (optical), you’ll need a digital to analog converter (DAC)

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Conversor-audio-digital-analógico-Negro/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=dac&qid=1593544588&sprefix=dac&sr=8-7

Does your tv have rca audio outs? If not you need to get an adapter for whatever audio outputs it has to rca if you want to use that amp.

Most TV's have at least an optical out, if that's all yours has you'd need an optical to rca adapter or buy an amp with an optical input. May need this

Cheap ones are pretty darn good now. Best way would be to get a dac with an optical input and RCA out to go to the Edifire. I got this to go from my TV/PS4 to my audio setup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_YWX7YWD7l5b5Q

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B009346RSS

The bare minimum dac.

The hum is very possibly something you're not going to be able to overcome with your Soundblaster at all. The lack of balanced outputs, along with electrical noise generated by either your computer or something attached to your computer along with electrical coupling, is what's allowing this issue to present itself.

The reason that very few internal computing cards are used for live audio to A/D conversion is because consumer grade ICs are typically unshielded. Soundcards meant for professional audio production, of which there are only a handful (Lynx, RME, ProTools Native rigs), are heavily shielded and power isolated to avoid exactly the kinds of issues you're having.

A few things:

1) Which cable causes the largest change when you unplug it from your computer?

2) Are you using any kind of power conditioner before the computer/monitor setup?

3) Are your monitors plugged into the same power circuit/plug as the computer?

4) Try bypassing the Soundblaster controller and see what happens.

You're really going to be better off using an audio interface designed for recording. Even the lowest cost interfaces you can find will most likely use balanced inputs and outputs. Balanced lines vs unbalanced will go a long way toward reducing noise in any audio setup. That's why it's the industry standard.

I can only think of two other things that could work:

1) Use a 3.5mm to dual RCA cable and use the unbalanced RCA inputs on your monitors.

2) Use the optical output on your sound card and send it through an inexpensive Toslink to RCA converter and attach that to your sub > monitors.

The second option above is MUCH more likely to solve the problem than the first. The reason being that using the optical out breaks the electrical coupling that's causing the issues with your monitors. These converters can be had for under $20 USD.

I wish you luck with this. You honestly might be better off selling the Soundblaster and going with an external, USB interface. Chasing down electrical noise is a pain even if you're very experienced at doing it. There are so many things that can cause it. Computer power supplies, a connection to your router, etc., and you have to test them all. It can become very time consuming and sometimes expensive.

You need an active converter that will accept digital audio signals (optical) via TOSLINK or other compatible connection, and output whatever the analog audio signal that is supported in your receiving side.

Maybe something like this?

Yeah, it was definitely a ground loop issue. I ended up getting a really cheap DAC https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0 and doing optical out to that, then analog to the amp. Instantly cleared up the buzz. Ground loop isolator might work just as well, good luck

Definitely will need some way to use the optical audio out of the console to eliminate audio lag. That can be into any device with optical input: a soundbar, wireless headphone adapter or any other digital to analog audio adapter.

I've been playing on Xbox through an optical headset adapter for years with no problem. Granted, I can really only play with headphones but I enjoy it. Living in apartment complex, my neighbors are relieved as well.

Optical out works just fine on the PS4 and PS4 Pro. If you don't have an amp with optical in just get a cheap DAC like maybe this one: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

You can also pick one of these up:

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm&qid=1590463296&sr=8-4

It will convert Optical to 3.5mm. I'm using something similar and it works well.

You just need a Digital to Analog Converter. You can go expensive or cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_vkn0FbXK14EAS

This?

It does to RCA and have a headphone jack.

PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BfmnFbC20TEVJ

Try a mini DAC (digital to analog converter) with optical input and analog output.

Some kind of this: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Conversor-audio-digital-anal%C3%B3gico-Negro/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Digital+to+analog+converter+ps4&qid=1599818116&sr=8-3

Ok, cool. So HDMI was used, between the PC and the TV. That helps a lot.

The thing I was trying to nail down is at what stage the audio signal goes from digital to analogue. From what you've described, this is happening at the TV, where it takes the audio bitstream from the HDMI signal and converts it to an analogue signal, which is either going to play out of the TV's speakers, or, in your case, out through the RCA outputs to another set of speakers/monitors. This is the point at which electromagnetic interference/buzz/hiss is being introduced, most likely by the nearby image processing circuitry on your TV, which probably only kicks into high gear when you play high framerate media like video games (hence why it's not there when watching 23.98fps - 25fps content on Netflix). If you're playing out through the TV speakers, you probably wouldn't hear the hiss, because flat panel TV speakers are pretty bad, especially compared to monitors.

But you are going to hear the hiss and buzz from less than spectacular, unshielded digital-to-analogue converters when you play them through a set of monitors, as you've described.

So I'd say that the TV would be the more likely source of the buzz/hiss, rather than the aux inputs on your monitors. The easiest way to check would be to plug the PC or another known "good" source of audio into the aux input and see if you still get the buzz. If you don't, then you know it's coming from the TV.

Then, as I previously mentioned, your best bet would be to use the optical (digital) output of your TV, and then have a dedicated box which handles the digital to analogue conversion, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l5fnFbQM5NB33

That way you're moving the digital to analogue conversion process - which is quite susceptible to interference - far away from the chips on the TV which might cause that interference.

Well, then check your PC for an optical out and look into something cheap like this from amazon. PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pnebFbTCX5M27

Marantz slimline NR series is probably your best bet. It has pre-outs for external amp if you ever need more power.

Or maybe a cheap optical dac like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=optical+dac&qid=1591975867&sr=8-3

Plus a 2.1 stereo receiver (around $150 at Best Buy)

I would look for audio outputs on your TV itself. A lot of newer TVs won't have analog outputs for audio but they should have digital outputs, either digital coax or optical. There are converters you can buy which will convert this digital audio to analog, something like this
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

don't use the RCA on your tv. use the S/PDIF. Use a S/PDIF to RCA adapter make sure that your TV is set to output PCM or LPCM and not 5.1 surround sound.

This right here. Those are IN connectors only. You will need to use the optical OUT. If the speakers do not have an optical IN then you will need a DAC(digital to analogue converter). something like this

A cheap DAC will accept optical input and output to RCA so that your speakers will work.

However, this may be the time to upgrade your sound system. No reason to spend all that money on a nice TV only to play audio through some cheap logtiech speakers. Treat yo self to some better speakers!

Using a 5.1 set of speakers via RCA is kinda crazy. Even though you have 5 speakers and a sub. Every speaker just plays in stereo. You're not getting true surround sound. Your nice new TV is begging you to utilize proper speakers so that you can actually decode true surround sound formats.

Assuming you don’t have a 3.5 mm out you will need a converter like this : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I9FVEbE0TV558

I would recommend hooking up the headphones to your source though.

So pardon my noobness but I meant DAC this whole time, so I tried this option first. I bought this cheap DAC from Amazon and then connected optical out to mobo and usb power from mobo to run it. Then the 3.5mm jack into it also bought a pair of dual 1/4 ts to dual rca cables and tried that didn't work :( still lots of EMI.

Maybe I might try the Isolator and see if that helps.

Since you did not reveal what TV you are asking about, it limits us to vague generalities and generic responses.

I use my Vizio TV with my powered speakers (JBL LSR-503) by taking the headphone output from the TV. There is nothing inherently wrong with using the headphone output if you have no other options. I cannot imagine what is causing your "occasional popping". Could it actually be clipping from setting the TV sound level too high? Without actually hearing a sample of the "occasional popping" it is difficult to offer any useful sugestions.

If your TV has optical sound output, you can just use a "Toslink to RCA" converter. Example:

PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink

If no rca out, most TVs do have an optical out. Then this should work: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=B00KNNSKV0&qid=1582813154&sr=8-1

Hey man. So after a lot of deliberation, I actually ended up getting the Hifiman HE4xx for music listening and single player gaming. In addition, since the mic input became such an overly complicated issue in terms of cables and compatibility with amps on Xbox One, and also because I only play multiplayer about once a week, I decided to just get the Philips SHP9500 + a V-Moda Boom Mic that I'll use for whenever I'm playing multiplayer with my friends.

I still want to pair my HE4xx's with an amp, as I heard they need one, and possibly also a DAC. I was considering these three options, let me know what you think if you don't mind.

For a little context, I'm looking for something that would get the job done on my laptop, my PS4, and my Xbox, and something that wouldn't be too much of a hassle for switching between my workdesk where my laptop is and my TV setup where my consoles are. By the way I already own a Prozor Digital to Audio Converter (this is the link on Amazon), although I'm not sure if it's a "high quality" one or if it would work in my use cases.

Option 1: Buy just a Schiit Heresey ($100) - This is the cheapest option by far. Disadvantages are that I'm not sure how well it would work with my PS4 and Xbox. I guess I would pair this with my Prozor DAC if it makes the quality better. Is this viable?

Option 2: Buy a Schiit Hel ($189) - Not exactly cheap, and I don't really care about the mic input, but what I like about this is it seems like it would be simpler to have the amp and DAC in one unit and would also make it easier for switching between Xbox/PS4/laptop.

Option 3: Buy a Schiit Heresy and a Schiit Modi ($200) - I figured I should consider this as well because it's only $10 more than the Schiit Hel and it might be better for audio quality to have a separate DAC? I don't really know though.

Think you could help me narrow it down a little?

I think I’ll try the 1/4” to RCA instead since with the XLR to RCA it wouldn’t be a balanced connection at both ends so there’s seemingly no benefit.

You bring up good points regarding optical signals. On a side note, I’m also doing research into upgrading to a small 4K monitor or TV for PS5. With a TV there would be an optical input available as an option, (as opposed to only 3.5mm on Monitor).

If I used something like this in conjunction with the Rolls mixer would there be any benefit? Was curious tbh but I’m not keen on the idea of powering another little box to go with the Rolls I’m already using.

The inputs don't matter, you just need the output. If your TV lacks a 3.5mm or RCA audio output, you can get a cheap DAC. That will convert optical to RCA or 3.5mm.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

If your TV has a spidf optical digital audio port you could purchase a rca to spidf adapter (analog to digital converter).

PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JF3cFb7AYTGSD

Optical out of the TV, RCA into receiver with this or something similar PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter

$14 and they work well.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

If your monitor has a headphone jack you can use an this PROZOR 192KHz Digital to Analog Audio Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Optical to Analog L/R RCA Converter Toslink Optical to 3.5mm Jack Adapter for PS3 HD DVD PS4 Amp Apple TV Home Cinema https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_-clYFbPA02XF9

And 3.5 to rca cable

Maybe something like this ?

To which I would plug the RCA stereo male to jack female, and from there I can plug the speakers using jack 3.5mm male.

Hello! I use this Digital Optical to Analog converter and have had zero lag. I found it looking for "Rocksmith PS4 lag fix" on Youtube. I use headphones, but I've seen some people use Logitech speakers or even their guitar amp without issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, just making sure, do you have the HDMI cable from the PS4 running into your Home Theater/Soundbar or into the TV? I think having both the HDMI and the Optical running to the same system (Home Theater/Soundbar) can mess up the signal.

My setup is HDMI to TV, optical to my analog converter. I also mute the TV because the PS4 outputs sound through both cables, no matter if you choose Optical Only.

Hope this helps!!

Get something like this or this

I don't think it gets much cheaper than an SMSL SA50 ($72) and a basic DAC ($14).

This will work fine

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

Dont forget to order the appropriate cables while you are at it.

i thought the Ai40s had optical inputs... but, yes, an optical to RCA converter could be a < $15 solution for you. when you use the optical out from a TV, it generally doesn't mute the onboard speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

so you can have both the Ai40s and the TV speakers playing at the same time. TV will have less bass and may do a solid job at voices, while the Ai40s fill out the rest.

Would there be a benefit to using the headphone jack on the tv vs the optical-out on the tv, when feeding tv audio into a mixer?

I'm using this little DAC (https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0) to convert the optical from tv to get it into a mixer. But would I be better off sticking with the headphone out from the tv?

I believe my mobo does indeed have S/PDIF port, I'm assuming that's the same as optical? If I get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=amplifier+optical+rca&qid=1581893507&sr=8-1

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I should be able to run an optical cable from my mobo to the DAC and output to my RCA speakers correct? Will the DAC be able to give enough power w/o an amp for sound that I can get by?

Like DonFrio said, use the optical out on the TV to a device like this Amazon Device if you want Bluetooth or this Amazon link if you just want a headphone jack. I've never used the optical cable while HDMI ARC is going so I'm not 100% sure it will work, but it's definitely worth a shot.

Well, you can always get a headphone extension cable:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY

Alternatively, does your motherboard have an optical audio output?

Components that deal with high-frequency power switching (GPUs, CPU power delivery, etc) sometimes cause buzzing or other annoying noise on headphones. You can eliminate most of this with an inexpensive DAC that has an optical audio input & 3.5mm headphone output - the optical connection will isolate the audio signal from other noise generating components in the system:

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

That Sony is a 5.1-channel home theater receiver. It's really not appropriate for a mono or stereo system.

[This Sony[(https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158STDH190/Sony-STR-DH190.html) is a much less expensive model that should do everything you want. It has more than adequate power and will accept almost any input. It also has provision for a second pair of speakers. I noticed Crutchfield (the link above) does not have them in stock, but Amazon does.

I'd suggest that you connect the two outputs of this stereo amp to your two speakers. Even though they are not well-positioned, stereo will give you a nicer experience without the need for a device to convert stereo to mono.

Your phone and possibly your laptop can connect to this amp by bluetooth which is a big convenience. Other devices (CD player, etc.) can easily be connected with a 3.5mm to RCA cable. As a bonus, this receiver includes an FM tuner and can be used with most turntables for vinyl listening.

It will probably need to be hard-wired to your TV. Most TVs have a stereo audio output that will only require an RCA cable, but some have optical output only. In this case you'll need an adapter. I recommend this one from Amazon. It's simple to hook up and requires only a power outlet. Your TV manual can tell you if this is necessary.

Hope this helps!

Those options look interesting and I will consider them. I am new to DACs, and I am wondering if the quality of the ones you mentioned are really that noticeably different than, say, something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=psdc_3236443011_t1_B009346RSS

No... I don't believe the item you've noted will work. If you want a stereo signal to your headphones, this should work: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=7A0LLIPPQNOT&dchild=1&keywords=optical+to+analog+audio+converter&qid=1609099196&s=electronics&sprefix=optical+to%2Celectronics%2C382&sr=1-3

It's an active converter (meaning it requires power) that'll converted the optical to analog (RCA connectors as well as 3.5mm jack).

Dirt cheap method here would be getting a USB sound card. $8 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/

This converter would also work for $14: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

At that point, the cost of optical kind of outweighs the price of cheap analog stuff though. Your next bet is to chuck $130 at some Edifiers with an optical input: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719C132V

That device would indeed work. I own this one, which seems to be a similar product only with the exact chip used being specified.

Using the S/PDIF out allows you to bypass the PS2's internal DAC and use your own high quality DAC instead -- which is why people say it has the potential to output higher quality audio. Furthermore, optical audio completely isolates you from ground loop noise and RF interference since it uses light instead of electricity to transmit data.

I tested both Persona 3 FES and Persona 4 and can confirm that they both work flawlessly with optical audio.

Note that both DACs linked don't support Dolby Digital or DTS audio. However, this won't be a problem unless you want to use Dolby Digital or DTS to get surround sound from a game.

DVD player Surround Sound?

Manual says HDMI for the Video but RCA for Audio - No optical

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/946754/Sony-Dav-Tz100.html?page=22#manual

- so your tv needs rca outputs or 3.5mm output - headphone port. if tv has no rca or 3.5 mm out - does it have optical output? if so use an adapter :

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B00KNNSKV0

tv to adapter via optical, rca from adapter to Sony POS.

This is the one I use, take optical from console to this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I also join both channels using this (convert stereo to mono): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then run it to the buttkicker using this cable:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8JW0/

That way you get both left and right audio to the buttkicker.