P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
- Choose from the Kill-a-Watt's four settings to monitor your electrical usage
- Monitor your electrical usage by day, week, month, or year
- Features easy-to-read screen
- Electricity usage monitor connects to appliances and assesses efficiency
- Large LCD display counts consumption by the kilowatt-hour
- Calculates electricity expenses by the day, week, month, or year
- Displays volts, amps, and wattage within 0.2 - 2.0percent accuracy
- Compatible with inverters; designed for use with AC 115-volt appliances
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Reddit Posts and Comments
0 posts • 101 mentions • top 50 shown below
3 points • rkennedy12
Software will never be a great indication.
They sell adapters that plug into the wall that you’d plug your pc into though. Something like this
You could also get a power supply like the ROG Thor that displays that information on the side .
3 points • KevBurnsJr
Can we make it the KILL A WATT instead?
3 points • rockker60
A device called Kill A Watt will tell you, but just like any PC the busier it is, the more power it will use.
2 points • hmspain
Also, investing in a kill-a-watt device is worthwhile. You can quickly unplug a device, plug this thing in, and then plug in your device. It tells you the current wattage, and can even monitor usage over time.
If you are curious as to how much your plasma (are folks still running those?) is taking, this is a quick way to do it.
The Sense will start identifying devices in your home and you can label them to know exactly what is using the most power.
2 points • krattalak
A Kill a Watt is an actual real product used for monitoring electricity usage. Not a /r/BoneAppleTea
2 points • NullDev42
I have a watt meter attached to the AC plug.
2 points • steik
If you want to know for sure (in the future) get a Kill A Watt to check how much your stuff is using.
For the AC, you'd need to get a thermostat that can tell you how much it's actually running (prob can't do that in an apartment but something to keep in mind/look into for future). I have a Nest and it can show hours per day and a detailed breakdown per day. I'm averaging 11 hours per day in the last couple weeks, going as high as 14 hours per day!
2 points • deadlypliers
Easiest solution: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
2 points • thunder75
1 points • portnux
Or invest in a P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor.
1 points • xioking39
You can also get one of these. They work great. Simple and effective.
1 points • rinnip
I use a Kill A Watt to measure energy usage.
1 points • Tough_Start_2491
Yes a physical power meter of some sort. I have a Kill-a-Watt. https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU
1 points • CzarDestructo
I use an old ultrabook laptop as a home server and its fantastic, plenty powerful and only uses 10W idle when the screen is off. Purchase a 'Kill a watt' or similar and check it for yourself before committing to setting it up.
1 points • NewRelm
Look into Kill A Watt usage monitors.
1 points • Enlightenment777
1) If you went from being home only at night to 24hr/day, then your electricity use will shoot up, especially if you have a lot of devices running, and your air conditioning is running 24/7.
2) More than 30 days of electricity usage might have been on a bill, or someone might have misread the meter.
3) Bad or very old appliances are sucking lots of power. Air conditioners, refrigerators, water heaters, ...
4) When you are gone, flip all your electrical breakers OFF, except for the refrigerator. This will help determine if you one of your neighbors or your apartment complex is stealing power from you.
I have heard of some SCUMBAG landlords hooking up hall lights or outdoor lights to apartment circuits to make renters pay for the lighting.
I have heard of miswired buildings where the electrical outlets along a shared wall was powered by one of the apartments instead of both apartments.
I have heard of scumbag rents rewiring circuits in the building so they could get free electricity.
5) Buy a KILL-A-WATT meter (or similar device), then measure the power usage of all items in your apartment.
1 points • TreborEnglish
This is a Kill A Watt. Plug it in the wall then plug in your device. It will show the watts you are using. They are about $20.
The laptop actual power consumption depends on what you are doing with it. Off, charging the battery, on charging, on battery full, on cpu/gpu maxed out gaming are all different. It keeps track over time. Switch to the kilowatt hours display after using the laptop 24 hours to see the daily score.
If you get a 12 volt car adapter for the computer you will get a similar power use. If you use an inverter expect about 20% more use.
Phone charger input power depends on the phone and drops off dramatically when the phone battery is full
Fridges are similar in that power with compressor on is high but you don't know how much it runs in a day in a hot van.
Use over 24 hours is what the battery needs to provide.
1 points • KraZe_EyE
OP do you own a KillaWatt? Curious what kind of electricity usage this thing has.
1 points • neetoday
It's hard to tell from the blurry photo, but that looks like an electricity usage meter. I don't know if Kill-a-Watt is a good brand, but it's the one I've heard of people buying here in the US.
1 points • deadgroundedllama
> how I can check how much watts I am using?
You use an electricity usage monitor. But the reading would be a raw value, you still need to account for efficiency. If you have an 80+ Gold unit, you would multiply the reading by ~90% to get the actual power consumption of your system.
1 points • m1sterlurk
There's a device called a "Kill-a-Watt". It plugs into an outlet and has an outlet of its own on the front. The display shows you how much power whatever is plugged into the outlet is consuming.
I'm powering 8 synths and drum machines currently, as well as my desktop computer, two computer monitors, my two studio monitors and two audio interfaces. My power consumption with all of this turned on is about 240 watts. I'm in the US, so 240 watts/120 volts = 2 amps....well under the 10 amps necessary to blow the breaker.
This being said, everything has its own power consumption rating. I suggest getting your own Kill-a-Watt. Turn things on one-by-one until you either hit 1000W at the Kill-a-Watt or you have everything on.
1 points • WordPeas
You can buy a device to measure the power being used by the charger. Of course it doesn’t mean all of that power is making it to the phones battery, but it’s in the ballpark.
P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_erqJFbBATZRKV
1 points • nutburg3r
I came across my notebook and recalled this post...
I’m using a Kill-A-Watt Meter to measure the consumption of my entire rack. At the time this measurement was taken it consisted of a 24 port Cisco 3750-X, Dell PowerEdge R710, HP KVM, Palo Alto Networks PA-220, cable modem and two CyberPower 1500VA UPS units.
The meter was reading approximately 350 watts.
350 watts = 0.35 kWh
0.35 kWh X 24 hrs = 8.4 kWh/day
8.4 kWh/day X 30 days = 252 kWh/mo
My electric co charges $0.054 per kWh (over 1,000 kWh consumed — and my base electric bill without all this is greater than 1,000 kWh/mo)
252 kWh/mo X $0.054/kWh is approximately $13.61/mo OR $163/yr (loose math).
I’m currently pulling closer to 600 watts right now so that’s about $23/mo.
Hope this helps.
1 points • Aneko3
I think rule of thumb is 2/3 phase current per motor, so you should be okay with one 24v supply unless you're trying to put them in series? In which case your just like bit shy of the 8A max load for four motors..
Assuming 24v, 8a load you should be pulling roughly 1.6a from 120v socket.. round to 2A?
Edit: these are nice to have around . https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c9KdFbAY4X6B6
Edit2: I am also using a 24v supply to power 4 motors. I have the pot turned up to 29v and I run a 800w router and laptop on the same 15a breaker. My grbl Arduino uno used laptop 5v USB supply.
1 points • Inigo93
For "real" answers, go buy yourself a Kill-a-Watt.
1 points • metalbark
Sounds like you are looking forward to your next card anyway, the 2070 super. But you should review the TDP of the graphics cards and do a calculation of how much power your system should be drawing and just see if your psu might be close to overloaded. As time goes on, components get more inefficient, and therefore draw more energy (or deliver less energy in psu's case). A Kill-a-watt is a decent tool to actually see how much your system is drawing in real time.
1 points • ozzie286
Some UPSs have LCDs that show power use, but for a more general case check out the Kill-A-Watt
1 points • jaykresge
You can also buy ONE OF THESE.
Granted, this is more "after the fact," but great to see how much headroom you have with your current build, should you consider a higher-end GPU with higher expected power draw as an upgrade.
1 points • TheLazyDragons
You should get this to measure before the UPS. The UPS draws power too. P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xA43Fb5JFDVE3
1 points • Philo_T_Farnsworth
Get a Kill-A-Watt and walk your house checking every appliance (especially things like your fridge) and see what is taking up the electricity.
Additionally, Evergy's website shows me bills dating all the way back to 24 months ago. Check your KWH usage the past couple of summers and see how it relates to now.
Look, utility companies suck and all, but that's not what happened here. You are using more electricity and need to figure out why. That's not Evergy's fault.
1 points • logikgear
I'm measuring at the wall with one of these. [P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU)
The entire rack is plugged into the UPS so it makes easy.
1 points • Hopperkin
Not off the top of my head, you could get a Kill-a-Watt though...
You might be able to find a watt meter at Home Depot or Lowes, but the P3 is a good unit.
1 points • thepensivepoet
Get a power consumption meter that lives between the wall power supply and the appliance. You'll probably need to do some dirty electrician work if your oven is hardwired directly into the wall.
Place a measured amount of water in an oven safe container and measure the amount of power it takes to bring that from room temperature all the way up to a boil.
Repeat using same vessel in other appliance.
Compare your measured power usage.
1 points • Economist_hat
Electric heaters convert electricity to heat very efficiently... but electricity is expensive compared to natural gas on a per heat (BTU) basis.
BUT! Space heaters heat the area you need, while central heaters will heat the whole zone (usually the floor or whole house), so your mileage may vary. When in doubt, you can measure it with a kill-a-watt meter or estimate it by guessing the fraction of time the heater is on and multiplying 120 * amps printed on the label of the heater = watt hours.
1 points • AK-Brian
Upvote for the TMNT case stickers. :P
Really no need to change out the PSU unless you're looking to maximize the efficiency or if it's a particularly old unit. You're probably sitting at about 400-450W total system load as described, which is well within the sensible output range for that power supply.
If you have, or have access to a power meter such as a Kill-a-Watt, you can see where the power draw falls during typical or stress test conditions to help set your mind at ease. They're super handy for a lot of things.
1 points • Aspirant_Fool
> certified and reliable
Again, certification has no direct relationship with reliability. Certification does not test for reliability, only efficiency. A less efficient power supply will not be inherently less reliable. It's possible for a less efficient power supply to be better in some ways - often more accurate/consistent voltage regulation results in less efficient conversion, and in that case the end result would be a PSU that's better for overclocking despite the reduced efficiency.
Especially for brands like Thermaltake, certification doesn't mean a whole lot. They don't build their own units, they brand and resell units built by different manufacturers. Even if the manufacturer has certified a given PSU, if Thermaltake wants to advertise the certification, they have to pay to certify it again. For more value-oriented products, they'll often decide that the cost isn't worthwhile.
If OP is super concerned about efficiency, he or she could invest in a Kill-A-Watt or similar device and get a pretty good idea of the actual efficiency of the PSU, but again, this is pretty much not worth doing except as a fun experiment.
1 points • RedLine19K
Well, the reason I was asking is if the dryer is a 120V electric, instead of gas because that's a large cord. There is probably a lable on the back that say 120v 60hz and a wattage or Amp listed.
Your washer/(gas) dryer together might pull 4-6A, and even tho that's probably a 15A circuit, a max continous of 12A only is probably what your car charger uses so.. as long as you never use them at the same time, you should be ok.
Get one of these https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU and you can make sure the wattage is safe for your circuit and monitor how much you spend on charging.
1 points • brandude87
The universal mobile connector that comes with all Teslas is rated to be used outdoors. However, if you are plugging in outside, chances are, you will need to use an extension cord to reach an outlet. Every manual for electronics, including Tesla's, will tell you not to use an extension cord, but if you utilize safe practices, you can minimize your risk of issues:
Use a thick gauge cord: ideally 10 gauge, and nothing thinner than a 12 gauge (smaller number is thicker).
Ideally, you only want to use one cord. Personally, I leave a 25' and 50' 10 gauge extension cord in my car. If I am away from home at a friend or family memer's house, the 25' or 50' cord gets the job done 90% of the time. In rare cases, I combine the plugs to give me 75' of extension.
Make sure nothing else is plugged into the circuit that you are using. A Tesla will pull a max of 80% of the amperage allowed by the type of outlet. Therefore, on a standard 15 amp household outlet, it will pull a max of 12 amps. If you have anything else on that circuit, you are likely to trip the breaker, and you never want to rely on breakers if you don't have to. Familiarize yourself with the the breaker box where you are charging so that you can be sure nothing else is pkugged in on that circuit. If other electronics are plugged into that circuit and you have no other options, estimate how many amps those electronics are using and then manually dial down the amperage on the screen of the car to stay under a total (car + other electronics) of 12 amps. I recommend getting a Kill-a-Watt for this purpose to check how much power your other electronics are using. Tip: if you know how many watts an electronic uses, just divide by 120 to find amps.
Finally, treat your cords carefully and always inspect for exposed wire or damage to the cable and you should be fine.
I will add that an extension cord is not a permanent solution. If you could have a NEMA 14-50 outlet (or Tesla wall connector) installed within 25' of your car outside, that would be ideal.
Note: at home, I plug my Tesla mobile connector into a dedicated 240V NEMA 14-50 outlet. A 240V power source is far superior due higher efficiency. A 120V outlet is only about 65% efficient vs. a 240V outlet is about 90% efficient. This means that you are throwing away 25% of your energy on 120V vs. 10% on a 240V. The NEMA 14-50 outlet also charges 6 times faster than a standard 120V outlet.
1 points • Fauropitotto
Get a Killawatt and find out for all your home applicances.
Kill the breaker room by room to see which room is drawing power, then use the Killawatt to determine which appliance in that room is drawing power.
1 points • Flooked
Kill-a-watt on Amazon
1 points • nod51
Thanks for the info. I don't know why a 15A rated kill-a-watt will melt with continuous use but I have no personal experience so will do my own research if I ever plan to use it for something that uses 1.5kW for long periods.
1 points • Metalcrack
You could grab a Kilowatt device. You plug a device/system into it and it will show actual power used. There are offbrands, but I can not vouch for them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bL79EbCSWND9Q
1 points • GraffitiJones
1 points • Zeiban
No because your PC doesn't have any way to know how much power your PSU is pulling. There are probably higher end PSUs that have an display or a way for your PC to talk to your PSU but for 99.9%of PSUs having a device connected between your PC and the wall outlet is the only way to tell the actual values.
This what I use.
3 points • Segmaster01
I highly doubt your computer is pulling 13 amps. That's \~1300W if you're talking about 120v USA power. That's impossible given your PSU can't even support that.
The clue is right in your story: "It worked fine at his house." That leads me to believe the breakers in your apartment complex are likely either old, defective, or some combination of both. It's not that the new 20A breaker is handling more current, but rather that it's new.
If you want to know for sure, pick up a Kill-A-Watt meter from Amazon ($35) and plug in your PC via that. I use one of these for testing systems that I work on all the time. It's a great tool to validate power consumption of overclocks, etc. when tuning a system.
With your system's configuration, I'm going to guess that it will draw... 350W at full synthetic load. If you end up buying a meter, reply to my post and let me know how close I got. :)
1 points • shithawks_circling
P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JBh.Eb7MAAXBB
1 points • Emerald_Flame
You can ballpark by using a PSU calculator to figure out your max power draw, and then adding 20% to it to account for PSU inefficiency.
Or if you want exact numbers you can use a meter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009MDBU/
1 points • emc87
This is what I'm using, it pretty accurately measures 900w when heating up and it seems accurate for other appliances I've measure as well. Its used ~3.5 kWh in about 3 days between use and idle
1 points • dmazzoni
They should consume very small amounts of electricity.
If you're not sure, buy a meter and see for yourself exactly how much electricity anything is using.
1 points • AcidFactory420
The term you're looking for is a 'power meter'. This Kill A Watt is a great starting place for your search.