Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (3.5g)

Yes. The paste just dried up. Put a good quality on and it will be whisper quite. I can't believe how quiet mine is. I literally can't hear it at all.

P.S. just to make me feel better, I went with non-conducting paste (made from carbon or ceramic) so if it oozes it doesn't harm anything.

I also found Noctua had a 5 year life guarantee while the others had only 3.

This is the paste I got.

Yeah use the 1500x's cooler. The reason why it's a better cooler is that it used to be a high-performance cpu when it was released, so it got a better cooler.

make sure you get thermal paste tho. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A

You should replace thermal paste every time you remove the CPU cooler.

Thermal paste is cheap. This is enough for quite a few installations for $8. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/

[Thermal Paste] Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound $30.36 - $22.46 = $7.90

You want to have thermal paste on there. I wouldn’t pay more than 10$ for some. You can get something like this. Put a pea sized amount on the CPU and then you can put your heat sink back on

For the thermal paste Noctua NT-H2 works well. You can use Isopropyl rubbing alcohol with a concentration of 90% or more on something lint-free like a coffee filter to rub the old paste away. Make sure the alcohol isn't dripping off the filter when cleaning but there should be enough to make the filter wet. Leave the CPU in the socket and be careful not to use too much force on it. The bottom of the heatsink is ok to use more force as you can't really hurt anything there.

You probably don't need to reapply the thermal pads on the VRM heatsinks right now. If you want to try that route get a good pad like 3M. A cheap little fan to blow air over them would be best if that's an option for you. I use zip ties or twistie ties to suspend them over the suspect area and connect them to motherboard fan header or SATA power.

This, or Noctua's NT-H1 at the same price?

NT-H1 is $8 and performs almost as good as the best TP.

This happened to me too I had an acer nitro 5 a simple fix would be to replace the thermal paste in the laptop the manufacturers thermal paste is most likely dry and dead I went from 90+ degrees Celsius on full fans to 65 or less on full fans

Here is a good one not that expensive of a fix(only$8): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1604089786&sr=8-7

Hopefully this helps!

Must be my dookie cheap 2 year old thermal paste. Just ordered Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (3.5g),White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_taQWEb1B8EEJ7

Also, my radiator was set to “quiet”

Any motherboard will run the CPU at 3.4-3.6Ghz, as that's its stock turbo frequency. Again, any temps under 100-105C are safe for the CPU, believe it or not. There are laptop models out there that run their CPU's at these max temps all the time due to poor cooling, and the CPU's are still kicking after nearly a decade.

But if you're uncomfortable with the temps and want to lower them a cheap solution you could do first is simply replacing the thermal paste on your box cooler. This is one of the best pastes on the market, and it's pretty cheap. Replacing the old stock paste with this would probably drop your temps by at least 5-10C. Or you could buy a new, much better cooler if you really want to.

But yeah, if you don't want to spend any money or mess with it, your CPU will not be hurt by running the temps you're at.

I was thinking that as well, I have some paste left from a desktop build a couple years ago. This one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DI3fFbJ3DK8H2

Considering they managed to misspell packaging as "pakcing", I would assume so. Notice how it is sold by a company that is not Thermal Grizzly.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A

Noctua NT-H1 is at most 1 degree worse and you shouldn't get a fake, because Noctua themselves are the seller.

Back when I researched this, Noctua NT-H1 consistently came out on top of thermal pastes that were non-conductive and non-corrosive.

It's not much more expensive than the genric stuff too: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/

Any quality thermal paste from a major manufacturer (such as Noctua's NT-H1 shown at https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A) should long outlast the relevancy of your CPU... there's no need to go exotic to ensure longevity.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1N41WUINOGOQT&dchild=1&keywords=noctua+thermal+paste&qid=1589122012&sprefix=noctua+therma%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVEkwSDlEVVdVMlRZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODg3NjMxN0oyTzhCT1hMRUNJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMzk2NDEyS1pISkZNQ0FQM1lGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== this is what I use personally, its non conductive so if you accidentally get some on the motherboard (it happens) it wont short anything and it's pretty viscous.

New thermal paste is a good start... but I wouldn't wait on the seller. Get yourself some Noctua NT-H1 from Amazon here. It's not expensive at all, about $8 US.

If that doesn't help, try cleaning out any dust on the fans all over your case. If all else fails, get a new CPU cooler. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO gets great reviews and is a great price/performance ratio.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/

Ordered this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A

Thanks for your replies.

this is a decent paste:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1Y9WST5FKHLI6&dchild=1&keywords=noctua+thermal+paste&qid=1595022996&sprefix=noctua+ther%2Caps%2C223&sr=8-1

Whichever screw driver/tip type the laptop uses. See page 32 of "Maintenance and Service Guide": https://support.hp.com/us-en/product/omen-by-hp-17-an000-laptop-pc/15551440/manuals

You could have a repair store do it for you, and see which thermal paste they use, or just bring them a tube of it yourself: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A

you can get a tube of good paste for $10 or so. even cheaper on places like amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1592661464&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWWTBYSTNNVUsxOE8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2OTk0OTgzVEo4TTY4QkU1UjlSJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0OTI3MDcxMEhSN0dVR0pZVzdZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Add in

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CQU14A

"Noctua NT-H1 Thermal Compound Paste"

to your list.

My NUC had thermal throttles, and loud fans. This has fixed the issue. (Mine was Gen 7 though).

Not at all, this YouTube video helped. Got it from this sub: https://youtu.be/d9lZpcBG8QQ

All you need to is The Thermal Paste - I got this Noctua NT-H1 Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (Gray) 1.4 ml, 3.5g https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d9ClEb9WJAYSQ

Alcohol wipes/ makeup remover cloth

The correct screwdrivers

I used Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Pastehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CQU14A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was a bit difficult to remove the thermal paste almost felt like it was baked on there. And I am not too familiar with the differences between single and dual ranked ram. The ram that is in this machine is 2933. Do you think I will notice a difference with 2666hz ram? Planning on getting a 500GB ssd and 16 GB of RAM

Thanks. Will do. Thermal compound is brand new. Using this: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A

I wouldn't recommend anything else other than thermal paste. It's cheap, and has been doing it's job reliably for decades.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1588874777&sr=8-7

This is Noctua paste will do, but if $10 is too much for thermal paste, any reputable brand will do.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1589393014&sr=8-6 Noctua is a high quality cooling solution brand and their paste is good enough. Use it.

Kryonaut is the best paste. Noctua NT-H1 is almost as good and it's cheaper per gram but you have to buy a larger tube.

Well, I do have a gaming laptop, but I first looked at that one since was down to $7.99 from $22 at the time of posting (but now its $12.99 haha). What I see, this,

Amazon.com: ARCTIC MX-4 (4 Grams) - Thermal Compound Paste, Carbon Based High Performance, Heatsink Paste, Thermal Compound CPU for All Coolers, Thermal Interface Material: Computers & Accessories

Is the very same paste but with less paste, correct? Another question, would this Noctua NT-H1 3.5g paste be good enough too?

Amazon.com: Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (3.5g): Electronics

Im ordering other parts as well so thats why Im trying to spend less even if its $4-5 or so.

Might want to reapply the thermal paste with a way better kind. While your at it go ahead and repaste the GPU too. I would recommend this thermal paste which is the best one i would recommend. Or this thermal paste which is slightly cheaper and still great but not as good. Or get this thermal paste which is slightly cheaper but still as good as the last one but slightly less quality but still great. Or you can get this thermal paste which is much cheaper but not as good as the last one i said but its still great too. Mainly the reason why your seeing such high temps is maybe because the old thermal paste on the GPU and CPU is probably hard by now. Because thermal paste in laptops don't always age as well as desktop computers. AS they have to always withstand a lot of heat. Repasting the GPU and CPU will help the thermals a lot and performance. Just use the best thermal paste i recommend it will be great for the next couple of months. Also normally gaming laptops run hot under full load but if you get a cooling pad to go beneath it and just repaste the GPU and CPU. You should see lower temps and better performance.

Yeah of course, I went for Arctic MX-4, it depends on what you can get you hand on, i wouldn’t recommend graphite pads for a laptop.You also mentioned that you have your laptop for 3 weeks thus you shouldn’t worry about changing,the paste for like a year.

Anyway, here is a list of good thermal compounds: •Arctic Silver 5 •Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut •Noctua NT-H1

I own an Envy x360 with a Ryzen chip. I have had the machine for 2 years now so I'll tell you what I have done to the machine to improve it. Some of the following are essential while some are simply nice to have.

Starting with the essentials, up to date drivers are a must with Ryzen machines. Although you have a 3000 series mobile chip which came with a lot fewer headaches than the first generation 2000 series chips, it is still absolutely necessary that you have up to date graphics and chipset drivers. These two downloads (Graphics and Chipsets) can be found on AMD's website using the drop-down menu.

While you can simply use Windows Update to download drivers for things such as WiFi and Bluetooth, I use the HP Support Assistant tool, which is the only one of HP's programs I kept on my machine.

This segways perfectly into our next essential improvements, an SSD. This isn't specific to your machine, but every computer should have an SSD. If your machine came with one, great, you can skip this step. I didn't configure my Envy x360 with an SSD from the factory as it had an open M.2 slot and I could install one myself for cheaper. However, even if yours does not have a slot, it is quite easy to replace an old Hard Drive with a SATA SSD, and it is quite cheap to do. In addition, a clean Windows install that removes all of the HP bloatware is very nice.

On the less essential side, power options under control panel are something I use quite often to extend my own x360's battery life and performance.

When I'm using the machine for simple tasks such as browsing the web, streaming video, or doing office work, I create a "Power Saver" plan. The main changes to the "Power Saver" plan I make are under Change advanced power settings > Processor Power Management. Here, under Maximum Processor State, I change the limit to 75% for both on battery and plugged in, as well as change System Cooling Policy to "Passive." I find this helps to extend battery life just a little bit more and to keep fan noise down to a minimum. Although it is worth noting that my x360 is not inherently bad wit either. Hence why this is a "less essential" improvement.

One thing I did that was unnecessary, but I still recommend doing if you are comfortable, is replacing the thermal paste on the CPU (and GPU if your machine has a separate one) with a quality one. This helps to reduce both heat and noise coming from the machine as often times OEMs use cheap thermal paste or have poor applications. I used Arctic MX-4 on my own machine and it worked quite well, although other pastes such as Arctic Silver 5, Noctua NT-H1, and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut are all good options.

I don't know exactly what you are going to do with your machine. However, 16GB of RAM is also something great to have if you are gaming or any sort of heavy workstation applications such as video editing, AutoCAD, etc. Since your Vega 10 integrated GPU will be sharing system memory with your Ryzen 7 3700U CPU, an extra 8GB of memory is always nice to have. If your system has 2 SODIMM (RAM) slots, just make sure if you do end up buying a new kit of memory that it is dual-channel since Ryzen CPUs heavily benefit from dual-channel (i.e. Make sure your system is running 2 8GB memory modules as opposed to 1 16GB stick).

​

That's all I've got for now, if I can think of any more I'll be sure to edit it into this comment later. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask, as I am happy to help. :)

ahh, fingers crossed for not the mobo. I've had a pretty "hands on" build process and I've definitely put more than comfortable pressure on a lot the components. Could def be a fried Mobo. Thanks for the tip!

as for the red dragon i essentially followed this thread

https://www.reddit.com/r/sffpc/comments/hgw217/modded_my_red_dragon_5700_xt_with_noctua_fans/

But I opted to flip the fans so they blow into the case, instead of exhausting - given my machine isn't stable, i can't 100% recommend it at this point 😂

Did it with these components

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T95C68T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0813X9G8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CQU14A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+ some zip ties

Also note that it will void the warranty on the card

Had this problem on a used PS4 Pro I bought for $200. The previous owner said it was getting loud and didn't know how to fix it.

Here's the parts list to fix:

Replacement fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082SSKRF3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

High Quality Thermal Paste: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CQU14A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

High Quality Thermal Pads: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZJSBRE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you have T9 torx screwdriver, philips screwdriver set, iso-propyl alcohol, toothpicks, cotton swabs. (I have all this laying around because I take shit apart regularly)

​

Follow a good tutorial video for teardown and reassembly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GeeINh2v1cw

I have been building/upgrading a PC repeatedly for years. Whether or not you started, I just wanted to take the time and provide a guide with tips and other information to help you out. It can be useful in the future. Before you start, know that on pcpartpicker, it says your motherboard may need a BIOS update first, so you may have to update to the BIOS first, unless your motherboard already has the correct version. You will do this from your BIOS.

More information from your motherboard manual:

https://download.asrock.com/Manual/X470%20Taichi%20Ultimate.pdf

Regarding BIOS compatibility:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cYXQpG

You'll want to check with the brand's site about BIOS info:

https://asrock.com/MB/AMD/X470%20Taichi%20Ultimate/index.asp#BIOS

(use the support option)

Basically, your question to me is, "How do I safely uninstall my CPU without damaging it?" Later, you'll also want to understand how to install one right after that. Note that in some cases with the cooler and more limited space available, you may want to remove your motherboard from the case and place it on cardboard (could be a box) or a wooden surface (like a desk.) This could especially be helpful for installing a CPU and its cooler for the first time. This means that you will have to undo the cables and essentially learn to build a PC. Once you've gone through every step carefully, you will realize just how easy it can be with practice.

(This won't be the first time I say this, but I highly recommend you pay attention to the documentation that comes with your PC parts. There are plenty of manuals you can find for parts online. There are important reasons to read them while installing parts. For example, there are some instructions for the correct RAM slots used for dual-channel support. In simple terms, that just means that you are relying on two RAM sticks at a much more efficient speed. This could even be important for a PC to POST.)

Materials:

• anti-static wrist strap (optional but recommended) - This tool helps ground you of any static electricity and this can help minimize the risk of damaging any PC components that are sensitive to static. Unless you are working in an area that is a low-static environment like wooden floors and surfaces, it can help you stay grounded in the event you are standing over carpet. Another way to ground yourself without an anti-static wrist strap is to touch the PSU or the chassis (PC case) throughout your build procedure. (You definitely do not want to build or leave components of a PC directly over carpet because static can have a negative impact on the parts. On another note, leaving a PC on carpet will increase heat and dust collection. Dust particles and other materials are blown in through the fans.)
• paper towels - These can be used to wipe away thermal paste from the cooler and processor.
• philips head screwdriver - This will be used to unscrew and screw the cooler over the processor/CPU. Unless your PC case uses thumbscrews, you will also need a screwdriver to open it first. I have seen some tempered glass cases use flat head screws on the front but opening the case will have variances from case to case.
• thermal paste - Using a thermal compound is very important to help keep a PC's processor efficiently cooled. Thermal paste is often an insulator used to provide the proper dissipation of heat from the processor, and it does this by closing the gaps within air transfer between the heat sink on the CPU cooler and the processor. While some stock coolers come with thermal paste already applied, there is a chance you may have to undo your cooler and reinstall it. There might be a case of not screwing it down properly the first time because it had the wrong position when you started or some other issue. I recommend this selection from Noctua because it's non-conductive to your motherboard, which is friendly for anyone that wants to play more safe. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H1-Pro-Grade-Thermal-Compound/dp/B002CQU14A#customerReviews Furthermore, aftermarket thermal paste will perform above the factory kind, so buy it for that benefit as well.
• 99% isopropyl alcohol -This will be needed to clean off previous thermal paste already applied. Every time you want to add fresh thermal paste, you have to clean off the amount already there. This goes for the factory thermal paste that is found with stock coolers. The brand I bought from last time was Swan, but look around to find the best deal for yourself. Be careful not to get some on your hands because it can temporarily irritate your skin and cause it to dry out. If this does happen, then lightly wash your hands with soap and warm water. Afterwards, moisturize your skin with lotion. It will of course pass eventually, but avoid washing your hands too much until then.

(Make sure to carefully read the instructions for installing your CPU and cooler.)

Firstly, since you have to uninstall your current processor, you will need to follow these steps:

1. Turn PC off/shutdown your PC, flip the switch on the PSU to off, and unplug the power cable from the PSU/PC. Wait about a couple of minutes and continue on to the next step. (As you already know, you may need to run the PC for a short time, so that it heats up the thermal paste enough, which can help with loosening the cooler from the processor. Try playing a game or running some demanding software for 5-8 minutes.)
2. Remove the front and rear panels from the PC case. Carefully unscrew the cooler using an X pattern, so work your way in a diagonal order. This is done to keep and even order and prevent the cooler from making various movements that can affect its stable position when either installing it or removing from the cooler. It will vary from cooler to cooler. After loosening all screws, you may have to wiggle the cooler a bit to remove it. (If you choose to replace the processor outside the case, I have posted more guides below that can show you how without having to throw down more words.)
3. Now it's time to clean off the thermal paste. To do this, simply grab a paper towel and fold it to fit close to the space amount for the processor you are cleaning, pour a bit of the alcohol over the paper towel, and wipe in a swift but smooth circular motion. If you need to, feel free to repeat that step until all of the thermal paste is cleaned off. Use another to go over and dry it. Do the same cleaning process with the cooler. (Tip: It can help to leave the solution with paper towel on top of the substance, so as to help it dissolve. To apply pressure, you can reinstall the cooler and let it sit for a few minutes. Otherwise, do it manually with just the paper towel.)
4. On your motherboard, look for the small lever next to the socket. Grab that and pull it up firmly but steady. When it's all the way up, your processor is removable. From this point, grab your processor from the sides and set it down somewhere safe and out of the way. Clearly, you can use the retail packaging if you have it, or setting it on cardboard pieces for now is fine because you can store it temporarily in the box of the processor you recently bought.
5. Next, get your new processor out of its box. Make sure the arrow on the processor lines up with the one on the socket. If you're having trouble, make sure it's right-side up. Hold it from its sides and carefully lower it to the socket. Gently set it down in the socket. Don't worry about it not being properly inserted the first time because you can adjust the processor in place. To do this, just simply check each corner with an index and give a gentle push. You will know the processor is properly installed when it falls into place. From this point on, simply pull down the lever all the way to the motherboard. You will feel tension. That is 100% normal. Make sure it goes all the way down.
6. Once you have done this, grab your thermal paste and use a small blob right in the middle of the processor. It doesn't have to be perfect, but don't add any more than just a little pebble. The thermal paste will spread across the processor when the CPU heats up. Think of it like a pancake.

7. For installing your cooler, just make sure to read your instructions that came with it. Take your time to do it correctly. This is going to vary from cooler to cooler. The wraith cooler for example relies on just the motherboard's backplate and spring-screws. The backplate may have a gentle adhesive holding it to the motherboard, meaning it can still fall out of place, which makes it ideal to install outside of the case for most situations, not just for the amount of space. However, there are aftermarket coolers that usually come with their own brackets/backplates that can make it easier to install inside the case. The style will depend on if the processor is from Intel or AMD, and also varies by brand of cooler.

8. See this resource for more information about two contemporary AMD coolers: https://www.amd.com/en/support/kb/faq/cpu-7

9. See this resource for an example of a aftermarket cooler installation: https://youtu.be/kNF-GHQthro