Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)

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Electronics Computers & Accessories Computer Components Internal Components Fans & Cooling Case Fans

Info from Amazon Listing
  • Premium quiet fan, 40x40x10 mm, 12V, 3-pin Molex, 4500/3700 RPM, max. 17.9 dB(A), >150,000 h MTTF
  • Award-winning 40x10mm A-series fan with Flow Acceleration Channels and Advanced Acoustic Optimisation frame for superior quiet cooling performance
  • Ideal replacement for noisy or broken 12V 4cm fans in 3D printers, DVRs, NAS, switches, routers, other network and storage devices, etc.
  • 3-pin 12V FLX version can be run 4500 or 3700 rpm using the supplied Low-Noise Adaptors to fine-tune the fan for maximum airflow or near-silent operation
  • Includes anti-vibration mounts, fan screws, Low-Noise Adaptor, extension cable and OmniJoin adaptor set for connecting the fan to proprietary fan headers

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Noctua

Reddit Posts and Comments

0 posts • 32 mentions • top 30 shown below

r/Amd • comment
5 points • chaos7x

Good ole Noctua makes 40mm fans that you could use I believe https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

r/Ender3Pro • comment
2 points • Critical-Record

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share noctua 40mm fan

r/3Dprinting • comment
1 points • SugaryPlumbs

There are also smaller fans that are quiet if noise levels are your only concern.

r/ender3 • comment
1 points • I-Eat-Donuts

Here is the fan I use It is so much quieter, but you need to know a few basic electronic skills to get it set up. Also yes, I replaced the motherboard too and it helped quiet the motors. I have a little corner in my bedroom where I keep it, and I’m able to sleep just fine with it running

r/3Dprinting • comment
1 points • TheNaziKid

My guess is the bearing in the fan , you could just get a noctua fan that is far superior than the stock cooler. Around 20 dollars, and the kit does not require soldering. here is the link to the fan

r/CR10 • comment
1 points • Xionous_

Just get this https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=noctua+40mm+fan&qid=1586503778&sprefix=noctua+40&sr=8-1

You cannot even hear it at all unless your ear is inches away from the hotend. This is the simplest solution.

r/sffpc • comment
1 points • mrrobot94

I was thinking use the smallest fan one but I don’t know if is good idea

r/sffpc • comment
1 points • kai535

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NQLT0M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Is what I used

r/MPSelectMiniOwners • comment
1 points • LazaroFilm

This 40mm x 10mm with a printed adapter is the best option. The standard fan is 30x10.

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RwvEbADFYP7Q

r/fpgagaming • comment
1 points • seg-fault

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

r/overclocking • comment
1 points • Millosh_R

I never owned an Asrock, but I repaired quite a few machines that had them (well, let's say 10-12), and there was always something, either I had to search for a setting in Bios, or something didn't work so I had to flash Bios to a previous version, or mess with settings that somehow worked but didn't make sense (meaning if you'd read the description) etc.

As far as fans go, I don't really thing that's a prob, i/e I have seen some setting I really like, i/e top front fan is separately connected, bottom two share a channel, rear one is separate and top ones all shared. In this configuration top one blows more air towards the CPU over RAM (stronger fan), rear one takes out air blown by the CPU fan and those are synchronized (in bios settings), remaining front two feed air for the GPU, and top one blows out any excess heat. In case someone uses a cooler like Wraith, then it's not useful. I/e I have 2 140mm fans in front, one blowing over RAM towards the CPU, one towards the GPU, the rear 120mm (but faster) fan blows air over VRM towards the CPU, and the top 200mm fan sucks all hot air out. "CPU" front one, rear and top one are set to run based on CPU temp, while the other front one based on GPU temp. Works like a charm. So, as you said, fans aren't the issue, 3e fixes it for needed headers.

Now, about x570 chipset fan, that may or may not be a problem, depends on the quality and type of the fan. If it's a fan that needs lubrication, oil for precise machines (i/e sewing machines) is the best cause it doesn't change it's viscosity (fluidity) and density, and can even absorb the previously used lubricant and even dust. If it's a magnetic one (no bearings) then those are a bit more sensitive but need no lubrication and usually are of high quality. Periodic cleaning using a can of compressed air and setting a temperature warning will solve any issues. Besides, those motherboards come with at least 3 years warranty, so I seriously doubt they would put some crappy fan. I know of whining issues with Aorus Master (which is too expensive) and some issues with Aorus Pro (well, for the price, I'd rather have the Elite anyway), but seems that they aren't the same fans on all motherboards. There are many reviews on the subject, so, it's easy to find info. And if it breaks, well, there's always this. Ffs it's just an 11W chipset, there's a gazillion fans that can cool that down for like 5-15e and be silent.

Since you probably won't get anything other than Taichi, then, there are no worries really. Hmm, I just took another look at that motherboard, there's a CPU fan header, then there's chasis pump header (3) which you can use, waterpump (4, 10, 24) so Taichi actually has 4 usable headers for fans (3, 4, 10, 24). Ye, you can use pump ones, I am using 2 cause they are closer.

God I love marketing, gold connectors ROFL. Although gold is nice, the only actual purpose is that connectors don't rust (silver is top of the line, but gets dirty easily, copper is also far better than gold, while aluminium - or aluminum for Americans, is close as far as conductivity goes, and fckin' cheap copper alloys can do a lot better).

Ye, sry for rambling, I warned you that I type as I think xD.

r/FormD • comment
1 points • Hypoglybetic

How about this 40x10 mm fan? Do you think it would fit? My case arrives in december and so I don't have any reference for how big that gap appears to be.

r/anycubic • comment
1 points • ImIntroverted

This one some people complain that it doesn't have the same air flow rate, but I haven't had any issues with it and it is way quieter.

r/MPSelectMiniOwners • comment
1 points • Ph0enixF0x

I just bought 2 of these to replace my fans this week https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

r/FixMyPrint • comment
2 points • Cz550

I would say part cooling is your problem. I printed the Petsfang Bullseye for my Ender 3 Pro and it has been working great. I use the stock part cooling fan but upgraded the hotend fan to a Noctua NF-A4x10 powered with an LM2596 buck converter to change 24 VDC to 12.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRN7NFQ/

r/sffpc • comment
1 points • DeltaZion

Can't tell how thick the fan is but whichever of these fits:

Noctua A4x10 or A4x20

I believe Optimum Tech made the same mod to one of his FlexATX PSUs, but IDK which video it was

r/buildapcsales • comment
1 points • Impul5

Pretty solid case IMO, probably the smallest among the console-like form factors without going into expensive limited-batch territory, like the Sentry.

Definitely recommend using the two 120mm fan slots for the GPU, keeps my 1080 around 65 degrees or so after 10 minutes in Timespy.

You can also mount two little Noctua 40mm fans to the side vent of the motherboard area to improve overall airflow a little; not necessary, but improved CPU and motherboard temps by a few degrees for me, so it's good peace of mind. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/

Here's a build album of mine from around two years ago. Tiny Noctua fans not included, and my camera/photography kinda sucked back then, but might be useful for someone. https://imgur.com/a/CQku8

Edit: Figure I should list some issues/advice too since I've had it for a couple of years now.

  1. Cryorig C7 fan is nice if you're planning to mod it to fit on a wraith spire (which is a thing, dropped by CPU temps by about 10 degrees over stock C7), but if you can spend a little more for the Noctua NH-L9a/NH-L9i I'd recommend it since they're about the same in performance but the C7 fan is a tad on the louder side.

  2. The mesh filter for the GPU air intake is stretchy. Mine stretched and started rubbing against the spinning fans. I fixed it for now by turning it around to attach it on the non-magnetic side, which works, but it's a bit annoying when I take it apart to dust out.

  3. Some of the screws are hard to tell apart and are used for different areas (just pay really close attention when sorting)

  4. Front panel audio input broke after a year and a half for me, probably because the cables on mine had to be bent a bunch to make room for the fans. I think newer models have a right-angle cable on the front panel stuff so this might not be an issue anymore.

That said I still think this case is one of the better options if you want a tiny desktop with a dGPU, just know it has its quirks.

r/watercooling • comment
1 points • Artureld1

>Noctua nf-a12x15

thanks for the quick reply. Do you happen to have any pictures of them both. I had no idea what size and dimensions to use. Glad I asked.

​

Also, found this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=emc_b_5_t

r/ender3v2 • comment
1 points • Remi-72

Sure. I'm no expert mind you, so just followed a few posts on here and other subreddits. My method is the lazy way where I used the stock fan wires. You can run your own wires in and keep the stock ones there if you want. I've replaced all the fans on my V2 (except part fan) so I'm already out of warranty lol.

Noctua 12v fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M

Buck converter (two in a pack): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0817P8BGB

Tools needed: Soldering iron, multimeter.

Steps:

  • Put the V2 on its side so you can access the mainboard. Remove the cover.
  • Locate the red/black fan wires. They are the last ones on the terminal block. Cut them both.
  • Solder the mainboard +/- wires to the in +/- of the buck converter and the wires running to the fan to the out +/- of the buck converter.
  • Before connecting the fan, power on the V2 and measure the voltage on the out on the buck converter. Use the screw on the buck's potentiometer to dial it to 12v (mine was default to 19v).
  • Turn off V2 and remove the hot end shroud and then the stock fan. Cut the wires on the stock fan close to the fan so that you have about an inch of wire free.
  • Replace with the Noctua. You can use the same screws as it is a perfect fit.
  • Cut the Noctua fan wires in the same way. In the Noctua box are two wire crimps. Just place them on the end of each wire and crimp them. No soldering required.
  • Turn on the V2 and fan should spin right away.
  • Replace the covers.

That's it.

r/CR10 • comment
1 points • rbd3453

I replaced mine with a 40x10 Noctua fan (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M) wired through a 24v to 12v buck converter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LY4RANA/). It's not the cheapest or most elegant solution, but it's quiet enough that I don't care that it's always running.

r/DataHoarder • comment
1 points • Glix_1H

If you really want SAS drives for some reason (they are hot, loud, suck electricity, and the IO is still shit compared to SSD’s) the best thing to do is get an SAS controller. Even if you got normal HDD (or sata SSD) a SAS controller is still the preferred way of connecting many disks to a computer around here, as they are much more reliable than most sata card adapters.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/162834659601

And the right cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW1U1GS/

Note that this cable does supply power on the 3.3v pin, so drives that make use of it won’t spin up. You can simply cut the orange wire.

Also be aware that SAS pcie cards are generally expecting server level airflow, and might get too hot and produce errors in a regular pc setup. Consider putting a little 40mm or 50mm fan on it: many people use this nocturnal, but you can easily go cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/

r/DataHoarder • comment
1 points • Zigian

Get
This
This
and this

Bam! 8 more ports. Done.

r/NZXT • comment
1 points • doodoo_brown

I bought a custom front panel and 2 small noctua fans

H1 Ghost Sheets

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown)

Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable

​

I took the shroud off my GPU so it fits in the side better, and installed the 2 noctua fans in the back to blow air out on the GPU side.

In my current apartment depending on how hard my air conditioner is cranking, I get high 70's with my 2080 Ti, which I think is acceptable for the build type.

I got my custom panel several weeks after installing the fans, so I was able to notice the improvement from the fans and the front panel separately.

I'll add a couple of pictures later if I get the chance.

​

I plan to get a 3080 Ti (or whatever the new name is). I just hope it will fit inside the case!

r/3Dprinting • comment
1 points • carrot_gg

For the hotend and control box fans, you need buck converters to reduce the voltage from 24v to 12v. I upgraded my PSU to a Meanwell 450. Replacing the PSU fan was the easiest of them all because it has a 12v fan, no buck converter needed. Not sure if the stock PSU fan is also 12v.

Here are the parts:

r/ender5 • comment
3 points • whodkne

Do your own research, take it with a grain of salt, don't blame me if shit doesn't work :) I'm still learning but here are many of the items I am using after trying and returning many others.

Capricorn Tubing (here's a kit with some bowden fittings too and cutter which are all nice to have) https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Capricorn-Fittings/dp/B07V35NPCJ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=NPEB7UNA0X1A&keywords=capricorn+tubing&qid=1578263522&sprefix=capricorn+tu%2Caps%2C292&sr=8-6

A bunch of nozzles and sizes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KBWSWSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brass brushes for cleaning nozzle: https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Brass-Brush-Cleaning-Welding/dp/B06XWFM1HJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=brass+brush&qid=1578263600&sr=8-4

Extruder gear/pulley: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N6F8KHT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glass bed, I didn't get this one but Elegoo makes good stuff. I like the Creality one but I have an off brand and it works ok too: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Platform-Tempered-Creality-235mmx235mmx3mm/dp/B07RJ3ZMGD/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ender+glass&qid=1578263780&sr=8-7

Aqua net is what most people, weirdly I've had better luck with some random can my wife gave me, this isn't the exact one but it's the brand: https://www.amazon.com/Herbal-Essences-Hairspray-Beautiful-Ounce/dp/B01IA9FIWM/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=herbal+essence+hair+spray+lily&qid=1578263978&sr=8-13

Extra socks: https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Accessories-Insulation-High-Temperature-Resistant/dp/B07PMXN6HC/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=silicone+sock+3d&qid=1578264032&sr=8-29

SD adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bearings for various printed parts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DZDLB3N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Eventually you'll want to replace fans if you use it all the time, it's loud. You'll need a buck board to make it 12v

https://www.amazon.com/LM2596-Converter-3-0-40V-1-5-35V-Supply/dp/B01GJ0SC2C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=buck+board&qid=1578264212&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fans for upgraded cooling prints usually are something like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll think if I can remember any more.

I adhered my glass bed to my magnetic one so I could easily remove it. The magnetic one is nice until you screw it up (nozzle will melt it, filament will fuse to it if it's too close or hot, etc). Using clips to hold the glass on is a pain. Removing the glass is nice so you can get hard to remove parts off without screwing with the bed level.

r/3Dprinting • comment
1 points • calscoo

Here is a comprehensive list of the mods I installed

Here are the guides that I followed

Future mods

  • Glass bed
  • Nozzle upgrade
  • Custom enclosure
  • Smart plug w/ custom script for shutdown after print completion

r/ender3 • comment
1 points • Ritlee

This is the perfect time to upgrade your system... get either TWO 4020 or 5015 24v radial fans (you can get 4 of them for about $10 on amazon I got these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083HQGJBR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )... you also want to print out the Hero Me Gen 5 hot end upgrade ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970 ). Watch a couple YouTube Videos on how to select the files you need, also don't do download all, instead look at all files scroll down to the bottom and download the .zip file.

While you are at it... DO get the Noctua 4010 Axial fan ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )and a 12v buck (I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EFUHFDU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Your ears will thank you, as the 4010 Axial fan that blows on the hot end itself is the second noisiest thing on the printer, second only to the stepper motors. The buck might be daunting at first but it fits inside the case for the mainboard, and the 24v input can go right where the fan originally was attached to. The hardest part is either soldering the extension wires for the fan to the output of the buck and soldering the fan wires to the extension wires.

You will also want to get some Metric screws to assemble the end, I got https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

You dont' have to get any of the parts I linked, but I am happy with the upgrades as it at least quieted my hot end substantially.

Also, sorry I'm a newbie when it come to posting on Reddit... If there's an easier way to post links, please let me know

r/virtualreality • comment
1 points • Chucklbc
r/ender5 • comment
-1 points • xe0s

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin (40x10mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ND85Eb5E0NBXA

Noctua fans are a little more expensive but are dead silent with excellent airflow.

Edit: downvote away. You can use a noisy cheap fan or you can do a little work and achieve a better result instead of a sidestep.