Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System

Here, I'll link it for you

Here ya go

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=lansky+sharpener&qid=1600016098&sr=8-1

If you mean a pull through sharpener it's because they're dead simple to use while a whetstone requires a fair amount of skill.

I usually don't recommend either method. Pull through sharpeners remove too much steel and leave a ragged edge while whet stones are easy to fuck up your knife with.

This is what I use. It's super easy to use and produces an excellent edge:

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ITLiEbDK2D5SV

Look up Aaron Gough's tutorial on YouTube

Lansky Fixed-Angle system is the easiest and most cost-effective way to get started :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f4DLFbYJFFBJ1

I was gifted the one with the serrated stone but never use it, this one is pretty much the same just with a more coarse stone instead of a serrated one lansky 5 stone amazon

I use this Lansky one personally. I can adjust it to handle my shun, mercers, cleaver, and other house knives.

These mainly:

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=lansky+sharpening+system&qid=1600017526&sr=8-1

Rod systems are also alright, they're a similar style to Spyderco's Sharpmaker, but the one I linked to is much less vulnerable to human error lol.

We had a bunch of old knifes that were left in a bag under the counter. I bought a lansky knife sharpening system on Amazon for like 40 bucks and went to town on them.

My wife couldn't believe how sharp they were, so much better than the one's we had on the counter so now the old one's are under the counter.

PS the sharpening system is pretty easy to use, take a bit of time but the end result is worth it.

This is the best:

Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_DdDrEbDJTYTQF

Takes a little work but amazing results. Search YouTube for videos on how it's used

Buy this and move on with your life. You'll end up with a MUCH better result, getting the angle correct along the length of a kitchen knife is a pain.

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

They have a more expensive version with diamond stones, and they sell additional stones like Arkansas stones if that interests you. You might also want a leather strop, but I don't always bother with it.

this is the one I have. I'm not sure it's gonna sharpen your mom's knife tho.

I love my lansky sharpening system. It's about 40 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_6M4EEb3M3A995

No they are not easy to learn. Look up a Lansky knife sharpening system and you’ll get a decent edge will little learning curve

Edit: link to sharpener- https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

Lansky sharpening system

Oo yeah you need to get a wet/diamond stone https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3VAMIGOAQXH1P&dchild=1&keywords=lansky+sharpening+system&qid=1581030148&sprefix=Lanaky+%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1 I would suggest this one, it is what I use and I get razor sharp edges I would also invest in a strop that they sell and you should probably watch a tutorial video on it the learning curve isn’t very big but it’s still there

Lansky 5 stone system

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

When I do my knives I take the edge bevel down to 0.7 mm or less, then I use a lansky system

It takes a while but it gaurantees to hold the exact angle you want. The super rough black stone I use to set the secondary bevel then work my way up the grits after I get a burr with each grit. With the lower grit stones I set a timer on my cell phone to flip every 10 minutes to help make sure its even. Takes a while but I to it while watching TV or movies anyways and if you do it right the bevel will be super smooth and shiny and slice paper real good.

Just buy this, fairly idiot proof. https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

Have you heard of this one? Someone mentioned it the last time one of these threads came around. It's on my wish list and seems to at least solve the geometry problem you're referring to?

>https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

+1. Came here to say this. It forces you to keep the angle consistent and does a nice job. I moved from water stones to working with this and would not go back.

i tried sharpening by hand on wet stones but just wasnt able to keep my angles well enough and ended up picking this up and it works great. also grab the stand which is $12 unless you have a vice you can just stick it in the vice. id also advise getting a strope. i find with a few swipes on the strope here and there i dont need to sharpen very often

Whet stones are harder to use unless you want to put a lot of effort into learning how to use one and having access to a similar knife to practice on.

Id recommended a cheap system like this, I can get my knives very sharp with this kit very easily. Ranging from Aus-8 to CPM-M4 steels, and even carbon steel; my EDC knives, kitchen knives, and even my camp ax all see time with it. The kit has very corse to ceramic stones so it covers a broad range. They offer more fine grit stone kits too under the same company depending on how bad your set is currently.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_SzA2FbZ0G7N2Q

Pardon me if I'm mistaken, but I think you're confusing the above user's lansky set with a pull through. I think he's talking about something like this:

https://amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4

Which is what I have, and I know the sharpmaker is great, but for the price and idiot-proof design of the lansky set puts a hair popping edge on all my knives.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xkrjEbH013YSJ

There's a difference between maintaining an edge, and sharpening a dull or damaged edge. IMO the sharpmaker is more of a maintaining tool.

Here's a 5-stone Lansky for $35:

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=WGAIHR7G546P&dchild=1&keywords=lansky&qid=1608910546&sprefix=lans%2Caps%2C600&sr=8-1

A guided-rod sharpener like this can do everything. Be aware there is a learning curve here, start by practicing on stuff you don't care about.

As someone that has just enough experience on a whetstone to know that I won't be able to get edges that satisfy me without significant practice I've been eyeing a lansky system to theoretically idiot-proof things for myself. I also figure I could learn free-hand with the stones, one of which could be placed in a pack for extended trips. Just thought I'd throw that out there in case you're new to stones.

​

edit: can be found for under $50 USD on Amazon

I bought this and fucked up my already fucked up kitchen knives...followed the tutorials on youtube to the letter. Maybe I wasn't patient enough. I bought this extra coarse diamond hone to re-profile and it's a bit better now, but still not super sharp.

I really like guided systems. I started on a Lansky Diamond System and learned a LOT. I think the very similar 5-Stone system is a much better value though. The Worksharp Precision Adjust system is being released soon and it looks very promising as well. If you need something now, get the lansky. If you can wait a little bit, see what reviews say about that Worksharp. Assuming it's good, I'd rather have that than the Lansky system.

Or, you know, do this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

The best one for me is oils be the lansky sharpening system with the super “C” clamp. You can use it anywhere, but it is a bit more expensive than other options. It is well worth the investment though because you don’t have to worry about the degree of angle when sharpening.

I bought a Lansky sharpener a while back and I have been very pleased with it. I use it about once a year and it keeps all my knives razor sharp. If you decide to get one, make sure you pick up the optional C-clamp that lets you clamp it to a table or counter while you work.

Lansky Turn Box is probably your best bet for a cheap sharpening system. I would watch a couple tutorials on how to use it, but overall it's a pretty good system to learn on.

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-4-rod-Turn-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B000B8FW0E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=lansky+turn+box&qid=1597789329&sprefix=lansky+t&sr=8-1

If you have a bit bigger budget I would go with Spyderco Sharpmaker

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Angle-Sharpening-Kit-Medium-Fine/dp/B00JHX512S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=spyderco+sharpmaker&qid=1597789498&sprefix=spyderco+&sr=8-3

Or this Lansky system

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=lansky+sharpening+system&qid=1597789454&sprefix=lansky&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=M3ARIIAQGRIB&dchild=1&keywords=lansky+knife+sharpening+kit&qid=1609110166&sprefix=lansky+knif%2Caps%2C162&sr=8-1 super easy to use and yields great results.

or

https://www.amazon.com/AccuSharp-ACCU-001C-001C-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B00004VWKQ/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=knife+sharpener&qid=1609110190&sr=8-16 Comes highly recommended and probably best handheld sharpener. Has limited uses.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FC4GYN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=honing+steel+diamond&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

I used a Lansky Knife sharpener. https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4

I started with the coarsest stone first. I attached the guide rod. Oiled the blade edge and stone and sat down to a session that lasted 2 \~ 3 hrs. This can be a shorter session if you invest in a wet stone grinder. I found one on Craigslist needing a repair part. It's shaft is bent out of alignment by a small degree.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-8-Grinder-Sharpener/T10097A?iparcelcountry=US&gclid=CjwKCAjwh7H7BRBBEiwAPXjadk_9MNVEz465_JFATojEKEg46VvDmEUXzShqBxDlgo_AgCQl51yMnBoCLloQAvD_BwE

One of the YouTube guides to the American Scythe stated this blade is a laminate with a harder core sandwiched between two softer layers of steel. They wanted you to pay particular attention to the edge by examining it closely. Your hardened core should be visible by a thin line on either side of the edge back by 1 to 2 mm. Try to remove just enough material (front and backside) to keep this core exposed along the length of the blade.

The benefits of this style of blade over the Austrian was it's ability to go further between the occasional field sharpening with the whetstone kept wet in a holder on your belt. Honestly, I look forward to the short break to catch my breath and survey the results. So I use an Austrian blade for now. It's a softer steel than the American and I know the whetstone treatment will make-a-difference in the before-and-after of the time to hone the edge.

I was rewarded with a cut finger testing the sharpness of the American blade I worked on. It drew blood. My mistake. There is sharp, then there is wicked-sharp. I think wicked-sharp is the goal. I also treat these sharpened blades like a loaded gun. I keep them in my gun safe because they are so damn sharp. Gun safes also offer a desiccated environment that prevents rust if set up properly. My old blades didn't come with edge protectors like my mail order Austrian blade when it arrived. Keep these and use them when storing your scythe as an added safety measure. Great care must be taken with putting them back on the edge. You will know just how sharp you can make your scythe.

So that's the problem here. Those type of sharpeners pull large chunks out of the profile of the cutting edge. If you were to look at it under a microscope it'd look like a chainsaw. Luckily you'll be able to fix this once you get a real sharpener.

I'd pick one of these, sorted by budget. I've used all of them. The ken onion work sharp is the most "set and forget" of all of these, and will be able to take care of any other bladed instrument you own. Kind of a buy once/cry once situation.:

$18 12" dual-sided stone - I learned on one of these, and it's my go-to for quick touchups.

$35 Work Sharp field tool - I keep the field sharpener at work for touchups, it's not bad. You could use it to get any knife sharp in a pinch.

$35 5 piece lansky system - Your daddy's favorite sharpening system. Don't cut yourself!

$73 Spyderco Sharpmaker - Pretty good sharpening, but takes a while. Make sure you don't round your tips.

$150 Work Sharp - Ken Onion ed - This is the easy button of sharpening systems.

There are more options of course, $250 edge pro apex, $400 wicked edge, japanese wet stones.

Ask yourself why you're sharpening your knives - is it for the fetish of spending a lot of time muttering incantations while you scrape your blade on the stone, the koolkid swagger of doing your own, or are you more interested in a blade that is sharp and angled consistently with minimum fuss? As you have discovered, the learning curve that leads to a sharp knife can be steep and winding. For the average home cook it's almost always better (as well as faster & cheaper) to use a mechanical sharpener or to have the work done by a pro. Still, if you're determined to master the rather demanding art of sharpening and honing a blade:

• Invest in a good honing steel. Most of the time a steel is all you need to restore the edge to a blade, sharpening is something that should only be needed after you've put a lot of miles on your knife. The ceramic hones do the best job but can shatter, an old-fashioned steel will work just fine - but get a longish one. By St. Lawrence and all that is holy, skip the strops.
• Don't practice on a good knife - learn on a POS that you won't mind damaging and that you can work and wreck and work and wreck. You should practice on more than one knife, a trip to your local resale shop can outfit you with a junk drawer full of assorted cheap knives to use as practice blades.
• Get your POS knives pro sharpened before you start learning. It helps to have a good reference point to start from, especially the tactile feedback of what "done right" feels like on the stone.
• Practice regularly, as in daily. For those of us who came up in a commercial kitchen, this is how we learned. You're mastering physical techniques and repetition is your friend. Wait a week between practice sessions and you have to restart the learning curve each time.
• Practice while sitting down, working on a solid workspace that's free from clutter. Turn the tunes off so you can hear as well as feel the edge. Focus but in a relaxed Zen kinda way. Working while standing on a cluttered counter is a good way to a bad edge.
• It's helpful, when starting out, to use a guide. This doesn't have to be some Rube Goldbergian nightmare of rods and clamps, a simple block cut to the proper angle can suffice. In the long run guides are like training wheels on a bike, you may have to unlearn some of what they've conditioned you to when it comes time to solo, but they do help develop the muscle memory for the angles.
• Skip the stone sharpening stones, even the good ones. They don't wear evenly and you end up wasting a lot of time correcting the bow instead of sharpening your knives. There are some diamond plate stones that will last longer and do a far better job than even the most expensive water stones with a lot less hassle. For what it's worth, this is my preferred method and the stone that I currently use (with their fine/extrafine stone) - it can make an edge scary sharp.
• Consider a machine that will do most of the work for you. No fussing with angles, no inconsistent stroke problems, no hours spent learning - just fast and effective. They do tend to remove too much material but for someone sharpening their knives once or twice a year, this really isn't much of an issue. I know a number of kitchen rats that use them and they come highly rated, although you'll have to settle for whatever angle they are preset to.

In the end, the best edge will come from a lot of practice on a good stone. Achieving that is not easy, so proceed with an eye towards the real world you live in and caution.

(copied from another one of my comments)

-----------------------------------

At the very least, I would recommend a really good "main" knife and one utility knife. You don't need a knife set. The main knife is generally a chef's knife or a Santoku knife. I'll try to summarize the differences:

Chef's Knife - Heavier and thicker blade, generally 8" long. Great for all applications, from meats to vegetables.

Santoku Knife - Balanced weight and slimmer profile, generally around 6" long. Good for most applications, excels with vegetables.

Utility Knife - Kind of like a mini chef's knife with a short blade. Generally around 4" long. Good for most applications, but excels at precise tasks (e.g. carving/breaking down poultry, trimming roasts, etc). Can also be used as a steak knife.

Don't mistake utility knives for paring knives. I find that utility knives can do everything a paring knife can and more.

Now, you'll want to decide on stainless steel vs. carbon steel knives. Each has its advantages, but I (and many other cooks/chefs) prefer carbon steel by far.

Carbon Steel

• More brittle (would rather chip than bend)
• Prone to rust if not taken care of
• Stays sharp for much longer
• More expensive

Stainless Steel

• More malleable (would rather bend than chip)
• Will not rust
• Does not stay sharp for long
• Less expensive

Now, I'll try to sell you carbon steel knives. I have never had any of my carbon steel knives rust. All you have to do is wipe them down after getting them wet, and you'll be fine. Carbon steel knives will chip if you try to cut into something hard (e.g. bone or corn on the cob). My chips are all accidental, and they were about the size of the tip of a pin. I re-sharpened my knives, and they're all good. I've had my carbon steel knives for around 2 years now, and I've only had to sharpen them twice.

I've also had stainless steel knives for about 5 years. They did not rust, no matter how long they were wet. They didn't chip, but they bent and warped near the edge. Unlike chips, I can't get rid of bends through sharpening alone. In the 5 years that I've had them, I sharpened them about once every 2 months. They're long gone now.

Budget: As the others have mentioned, Victorinox is the best knife for its value. I'm personally not too big of a fan, but I will admit that they're the best stainless steel knives that I've ever owned. These are excellent for all home cooks. About $35 for a chef knife.

Mid-Range: I mainly use a VG-10 High-Carbon Damascus knife set by Zelancio Cutlery. It comes with an 8" chef knife, a 6" santoku knife, and a 3.5" paring knife. It's the same set that I talked about earlier when mentioning carbon steel knives. About $85 for all three. Does not come with knife covers.

High-End:

• I love DalStrong knives. They offer excellent carbon-steel knives but are very pricy. They also have a wide selection. Knives are usually around $90-130 a piece.
• Wüsthof also offers high-quality German carbon-steel knives. They're used by many professional chefs, such as Gordon Ramsay. I like the quality, but hate the heel of their knives. Generally around $80-150 a piece.
• Shun knives are like Wusthof knives, but Japanese. Excellent. Around $100-250 a piece.
• Yoshihiro knives are the best I've ever used. Perfectly balanced and masterfully crafted. You ever see those YouTube videos of people cutting paper-thin wafers of tomatoes? This is what they probably use. Around $300-500 a piece.

Get a honing rod (honing steel) for the kitchen. It won't sharpen your knives, but it'll help maintain the edge for longer. If you want a knife sharpener, I would recommend the following:

Bavarian Edge ($17) - Good for stainless steel knives. Works surprisingly well for something that costs so little.

Lansky Delux ($43) - Like a whetstone, but easier to use. Good for all knives.

Chef's Choice 320 ($90) - Uses grinding wheels, like a circular whetstone. Fast and good for all knives. Not for me, but great for most.

Work Sharp Ken Onion Edition ($130) - Uses sanding belts. Fast and excellent for all knives, but has a learning curve. Results in a convex edge that stays sharp for longer. What I personally use.

Oh, and hand-wash all of your knives. Never put them in the dishwasher. If you want to chop through bones, get a heavy-duty meat cleaver.