Kingston 480GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/480G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance
Below are the top discussions from Reddit that mention this Amazon listing.
Electronics Computers & Accessories Data Storage Internal Solid State Drives
- Fast start up, loading and file transfers. A400 has a 7 millimeter form factor to fit in a wider array of systems. It’s ideal for slimmer notebooks and in systems with limited available space
- More reliable and durable than a hard drive
- Multiple capacities with space for applications or a hard drive replacement; Operating temperature: 0°C~70°C
- Capacity: 480GB, Interface: SATA Rev. 3.0 (6Gb/s) with backwards compatibility to SATA Rev. 2.0. 480GB to 500MB/s Read and 450MB/s Write
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Kingston
Reddit Posts and Comments
0 posts • 32 mentions • top 31 shown below
2 points • DirtyDuckDuckGoose
It may be a better idea to buy a used PC and throw in a 1650 Super / 1660 Super if possible, since at $400, you're not necessarily getting great bang for the buck on all new parts. I'd take a look at local marketplaces and see what they're offering - it may not be better, but you may be able to save some money and get a rig which meets your needs at a low price. If you can't find anything better, I think your build is pretty solid as is - although, I would spend a bit more money to get a 500GB SATA6 SSD if you can - this Kingston A400 480GB is pretty solid, and will last you quite a bit longer than 240GB.
1 points • rckidyt
No. You can get new 500gb SSDs for less than that. Nothing at Best Buy is ever a good deal.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=500gb+ssd&qid=1578768722&sr=8-6
1 points • The_new_Osiris
\>I would certainly recommend opting for a higher speed RAM ; 2666 to 3000 would be quite a significant bump. It would honestly be a pretty bad choice to run a damn 2080 Ti on a 2666 clock memory.
\> Would much rather suggest going for a 480 GB Kingston SSD instead.
\> Try going for a 3600x to better compliment the 2080 Ti if possible.
Those are my 2 cents on your build , rest looks fantastic.
1 points • ZapBot_
I got a Kingston ssd instead of the 860 evo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_y39udtyD72gcE
1 points • StrengthOfMyImage
I have a i7-7700 cpu and no m.2 slot in my motherboard unfortunately. If I buy something like this Kingston ssd it will it work on my build as a boot drive? How do I get the data from my old ssd to my new one? This is trying to upgrade my old ssd with only about 125 gb on it.
1 points • mabuuu
I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0TQPQB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As for the bios, what exactly should I be changing?
1 points • Gundam_Asstronaut
For the SSD, is there a specific type I should look for to make sure it will work with my computer? Would something like this work?: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-240GB-Solid-SA400S37-240G/dp/B01N0TQPQB?ref_=Oct_s9_apbd_simh_hd_bw_b1PRaOp&pf_rd_r=NPXSRA6NPS7WBRATS433&pf_rd_p=5e982072-3675-5d4b-98b7-9d016bdf5c5c&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=1292116011&th=1
1 points • AwesomeShizzles
Get at least 512gb.
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=512gb%2B2.5in%2Bssd&qid=1585598725&sr=8-8&th=1&psc=1
3 points • TommarrA
Kingston 480GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD here is the SSD:
SA400S37/480G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hJMEFbQXP4289
And here is the enclosure
AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA HDD or SSD Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RLG2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dKMEFbEWJY9E8
1 points • rtscaptain_RDDTW
For storage you can get a 2.5" 500gb SSD cheaper than the M.2 250gb which is what I would do.
Something like this Kingston 480gb SSD will give you pretty close to identical read/write speeds, with almost double the storage, for less moneys.
1 points • lexwolfe
>I've got a 1tb HDD and a 256 gb SSD
Ideally you want windows separated from your games. if for some reason you have to replace/reinstall your windows drive, then you don't loose your games.
In your scenario I'd buy a 480GB SSD and use that for games you want quicker load.
$53 for a decent brand https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=480GB+ssd&qid=1578175019&sr=8-3
2 points • SmolGreenTurtle
As long as the new SSD is the same form factor (2.5inch) they should be compatible.
In terms of budget SSD's below $40 USD
there is one made by Kingston
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-240GB-Solid-SA400S37-240G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sxin_14_ac_d_pm?ac_md=1-0-VW5kZXIgJDQw-ac_d_pm&cv_ct_cx=ssd&dchild=1&keywords=ssd&pd_rd_i=B01N5IB20Q&pd_rd_r=3e8cfbb9-2527-4329-986b-422aaf1aa488&pd_rd_w=MZPhl&pd_rd_wg=2vaw3&pf_rd_p=7bce1efb-5229-4289-8758-b64b1d02cfb8&pf_rd_r=X5TXPVVQC5VED6KRN8KM&qid=1600684288&sr=1-1-22d05c05-1231-4126-b7c4-3e7a9c0027d0&th=1
You might need a bigger budget though if 480 GB is to little.
In terms of Brands that I like, I would suggest WD, or Samsung.
2 points • PerceptualVision
New SSD's die due to Windows 10 installation
Howdy tech supporters, this is my first post here so excuse me for any formatting errors or such. I will try to keep this short as I don't want to add useless information, but I want to give you guys the full rundown of what is happening. With that said, on to the problem!
These are the following specs of the 'new machine' that's receiving the hard drive upgrade.
OS: Windows 10 Pro (x64)
CPU: i5-650
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 7470
RAM: 8GB (2x4) of DDR3 SDRAM
MOBO: INTEL P55/H55 w/ H55 (IbexPeak DH) chipset
HDD: WD5000AV 500GB
I recently purchased a new SSD to install on a computer running an older HDD. I installed the drive on the PC and successfully installed Windows 10 from a USB. Everything was working fine until I transferred the old data from the previous disk onto the new one (I used MiniTool Partition Wizard). Upon booting the PC I started getting problems with the drive not being recognized, not even in the BIOS. I thought I had maybe copied over a virus or I accidentally transferred the old OS files onto the new disk causing it to malfunction. I tried formatting the disk by connecting it to my main PC using an external hard drive docking station and disk management. However, I couldn't even initialize the drive and I kept getting the error "The request failed due to a fatal device hardware error" which means the drive is dead or about to die (keep in mind this is a new drive and I didn't mishandle it in any way that could've caused it to have a hardware failure). After countless hours of research and failed attempts at making the drive work I took a big L and decided to send it back and get a replacement. I wish the problem could've ended here, but this is where it really started.
After a few days, my drive replacement gets here and I install it following the previous steps. However, before starting the Windows installation, I like to partition my drive's using MiniTool Partition and create a dedicated partition for the OS, while also making sure the drive is configured correctly and working, which it was. Upon finishing, I install the drive on the new PC and begin the Windows installation which to my surprise I get the SAME PROBLEM, again, however this time I didn't even have the chance to install Windows on it or transfer any kind of data onto it. The drive is not recognized, not even in the BIOS and when connected to my main PC and trying to initialize it I get the same hardware error message as with the previous 'broken' drive. I have tried countless solutions from all of the Reddit threads that were similar to this, I have tried different software programs and their respective guides to try to get the drive initialized or get any error codes other than the previous one but nothing has helped me so far and I'm still at square 1.
These are just a few of the things I have tried that I can remember at the moment:
- Checked the SATA ports and SATA cable connectors by using known working ports/cables.
- Disconnected all non-essential components and went through OS installation.
- Ran Windows memory diagnostic tool on both machines with the drive plugged-in directly and through the docking bay.
- Tried different solutions using diskpart, disk management, and chkdsk.
- Analyzed the drive using CrystalDiskInfo (did not show up) and related software.
Some additional thoughts: I wouldn't know why the installation of Windows or any kind of software related problem would cause a physical hardware issue to occur unless it somehow caused the drive to overheat or short circuit which I am not aware of. This is also not my first installation of any OS and certainly not my first time handling drives, I am sure that I couldn't have caused the drive failure due to mishandling it or related. This leads me to believe that there is an underlying cause making the drives to malfunction and not allowing Windows to write/read off the drive and causing it to spit out a 'hardware error' without the drive being physically damaged.
My brain is fried at this point and writing this post has given me a headache, so I will end it here and hope I did not miss critical pieces of information. I don't know what else to do other than to repeat this whole thing again, which may or may not lead to the same results. I hope to hear from your guy's thoughts and see if we can figure out why this is happening before having to do it again.
1 points • PoopyLolPoop
Oh damn.....thanks for the warning man.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0TQPQB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Would that SSD be good?
1 points • InterestingAddendum
>Are you 100% sure this is not a fake product?
I mean, I used Kingston's own SSD Manager software and the drive was recognized and everything (but no FW updates), so I'm pretty sure it's not fake.
>In BIOS, is it in AHCI mode and not IDE?
>
>Did you run firmware updates for thid drive?
Yes, and yes. But as I mentioned before, no updates were available.
>And finally: see one-star amazon reviews ...
Ah, yes I've definitely seen some of those. I know it's an entry-level SSD (aka cheap garbage?), but given my financial situation, that was the best I could afford at the moment. lol
>samsung 860evo, perhaps?
Lol. Decided to look that one up just for fun (for context, I'm brazilian and the economic reality here is just a little different). Anyway, that one costs R$ 976 (US$ 233) here, which is basically our minimum wage. 🤷
So yeah... Not really possible for me at the moment, unfortunately.
3 points • hunterkll
Manufacturer bloat just isn't really an issue anymore these days - a cheap SSD and RAM doubling to 8GB would be an amazing improvement, however.
​
Win10 really uses the disk differently than 7 and below did, so it suffers more from being on rotational, but put both 7 and 10 on SSD in the same machine and 10 will fly past it far faster (so will 8/8.1 in fact)
​
SSD will be the first boost, 500GB or so SSD runs less than $70 almost always like this one https://www.newegg.com/crucial-mx500-500gb/p/N82E16820156173?nm_mc=knc-msnsearch&cm_mmc=knc-msnsearch-pc-_-pla-_-solid+state+disk-_-crucial-_-20156173&msclkid=8abbeb246027115612abb53163614b56&gclid=CNHo0o3C8uYCFYfBswodWKcGpA&gclsrc=ds
​
1 points • 89utvh78h
> How much does it often cost?
Depends on how much space you want. You can get a 120gb ssd for 20$ though I recommend going with a 500gb one for around 50$ instead.
120gb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C
480gb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0TQPQB
I recommend sticking to Samsung, Micron (Crucial) and Kingston SSDs. Some of the cheaper off brand ones have reliablity and/or other problems.
1 points • Diego_burciaga
For about the same price as your m.2 drive you could get a 500gb 2.5in SSD and get a some more storage but it will probably be a tiny bit slower but not by much.
Here's a pretty good one - https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=2.5+in+ssd+500gb&qid=1605048618&s=electronics&sr=1-7
1 points • GreenNapster
Deal link: Amazon
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3 points • afrokat
For music, you want a processor with something like a 4 core/8 thread and enough RAM, also enough space for your sample library. You definitely don't need anything fancy graphics wise unless you plan on gaming on the same computer, so get something cheap like an rx 550 or something in that ballpark. >!You can also use the integrated graphics if you get an intel processor, if you don't want to spend on a gpu!<
RAM matters if you plan on having a lot of samples in your projects, im talking something like fully sampled drum kits with multi velocity hits. If you plan on using things like superior drummer or big kontakt instruments, get somewhere between 16 and 32 gigs or RAM. 32 might be a bit overkill but if you have the money for it get it, if not, go with 16. >!Don't get anything with "gamer" or "RGB" in the name.!< I've been producing on 8GBs for a couple of years and i haven't really felt the need for more, but I personally don't use things like Kontakt and Superior Drummer/EZ Drummer, i mostly work with synthesized drums.
For your processor, it depends a lot on how much you're willing to spend and which type of processor your motherboard supports. Consider the i7-6700k or the Ryzen 5 3600. I'm not an expert when it comes with processors so if someone else has a better suggestion please go ahead.
Disk space is useful for saving your samples and projects. Get a multiple TB hard drive for mass storage (2 or 4TB are more than enough to save all your samples and projects) and get an ssd to get fast loading times.
Like /u/pink_ampharos said, don't buy a pre built computer. Build your own. There's hundreds if not thousands of resources and videos online that will walk you through how to install every single component.
1 points • akryl9296
HMMMMM... tried any of those, just to be sure?:
Are you 100% sure this is not a fake product?
In BIOS, is it in AHCI mode and not IDE?
Did you run firmware updates for thid drive?
And finally: see one-star amazon reviews and newegg 1-egg reviews (filter by 1-egg on your own, no idea how to link it) for this drive. And this thing too. Seeing all this, I'm not that surprised to see this drive doing weird things and would suggest wiping it and returning for a full refund, and buying something else (samsung 860evo perhaps?)
1 points • Liquid_Candy
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ssd+500gb&qid=1600441248&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=ssd+500gb&qid=1600441248&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-Performance-Internal-SP512GBSS3A55S25/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ssd+500gb&qid=1600441248&sr=8-4 (Cheaper but I haven't heard of this brand)
1 points • SeponKaljamaha
which SSD should i get
https://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-WDS480G1G0A-480GB-Retail/dp/B01M3POPK3/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Western+Digital+480GB+WD+Green+SSD&qid=1594696659&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH
https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB
https://www.amazon.com/KIOXIA-EXCERIA-SATA-6Gbit-2-5-inch/dp/B087CPLWKP
1 points • midiwaterbottle
hmm would it be worth putting windows onto a random hdd and booting in to see if its the ssd? as of writing its been up and running for over 25 mins ( a record for today since the problem started)
I hope it is the ssd since i've been wanting to replace it anyways. Do you have any suggestions for a cheap 500gb ssd? was looking at these :
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1 points • jcwillia1
ok so apologies for doing this but
or
or are they the same thing with different connectors?
or are they the
1 points • d0nutonme
Drop the AIO - Ryzens come with great stock coolers that keep your cpu cool.
1050ti is getting a bit outdated. Instead look into a 1650 super for a similar price and large bump in performance - ex: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-Windforce-Graphics-Gv-N165SWF2OC-4GD/dp/B081R359ZM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=1650+super&qid=1585355964&sr=8-5
SSD you picked out is a bit pricey - cheaper options similar performance - ex: https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-480GB-Solid-SA400S37-480G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ssd&qid=1585356011&sr=8-3
1 points • volcs0
ASRock B450M PRO4 AM4 AMD Promontory B450 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3200MHz C16 Desktop Memory
Kingston 480GB A400 Sata3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/480G (cache)
LSI Logic SAS3442E-R Raid 8PORT Pcie 3GB/S 4 Int 4 Ext Lp ROHS6
Thanks.
3 points • Illustrious-Plan-893
I also plan on building a computer for my little brother based on the same cpu and motherboard combo. The i3 offers great performance at $100, similar to the old 4790k i7's.
CPU: i3 10100 $105 https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-10100-Desktop-Processor-LGA1200/dp/B086MMRW87/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=I3+10100&qid=1607215991&sr=8-1
Motherboard: Asus prime b460m $100 https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-B460M-Motherboard-DisplayPort/dp/B087M19S5P/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1JIM6BZCVE8W0&dchild=1&keywords=lga+1200+motherboard&qid=1607216098&sprefix=lga+1200%2Caps%2C166&sr=8-1
Ram: $80 Corsair rgb ddr4 3200 https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B07D1XJWSJ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Rob+ram&qid=1607216347&sr=8-1
Case: $80 Corsair iCUE 220T RGB Airflow Tempered Glass Mid-Tower https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Airflow-Tempered-Glass-Mid-Tower/dp/B07RW8GLQJ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=corsair+case+220t&qid=1607216460&sr=8-1
ssd: $45 Kingston 480gb https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-240GB-Solid-SA400S37-240G/dp/B01N0TQPQB/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ssd&qid=1607216542&sr=8-5&th=1
PSU: $40 500W 80plus bronze https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=psu&qid=1607217957&sr=8-14
CPU cooler: $130 Definitely not necessary as the stock fan will suffice but rgb seems to be a priority and this cooler would be great if the cpu is upgraded down the line. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-H100i-Capellix-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B08G1NSG7F/ref=sr_1_6?crid=T77DSJFL3H34&dchild=1&keywords=cpu+cooler&qid=1607216946&sprefix=cpu+%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-6
GPU: $200 msi rx 570 8gb https://www.amazon.com/MSI-RX-570-ARMOR-8G/dp/B076Y93L8F/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=msi+rx+570&qid=1607217713&sr=8-1
You could also look for local deals on a used gpu to save money. A gtx 1050ti 4gb should be more than sufficient for pubg and great value if you can find it for $80
Also all the rgbs are run through corsairs icue software and should allow for tons of customization.
The ram is also faster than the motherboard and cpu support and that's just cause it doesn't make sense to pay $80 for 2666 MHz ram in 2020 and you can just run the 3200mhz ram at 2666mhz
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Total cost $800 ish usd plus tax
1 points • dado330
GPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083W2JP4W/
Case: https://www.mrpc.com.co/producto/fractal-design-focus-g-black-white-window/
PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B72VXE6/
SSD: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0TQPQB/
HDD: https://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-1TB-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/
RAM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0143UM4TC/
Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FWVJSHC/
CPU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XTQZJ28/
Should be around 650 USD.