Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W

I see plenty of fridges sold as "garage ready" which I thought meant that they worked in temps from 0 to 100 or something. If you already have a fridge, I would recommend a programmable temperature controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=programmable+temperature+controller&qid=1607138038&sprefix=programmable+temperature&sr=8-3 Hook it up to a incandescent lightbulb in the fridge with the temperature probe in there too. Set the fridge temp for 36 and the temp controller for 34, or something like that. On cold days the controller will cycle the light on to keep the fridge above freezing, on warm days the fridge will keep itself cool.

It actually does the cooling, you get an inkbird thermostat and plug the freezer in to it. Set the temp where you want it and it turns the power on and off to keep it at temp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_gYjIFbBEDSEKF

Converting mini fridge into a freezer

Hey I’m attempting to convert a mini fridge into a freezer. Has anybody tried and have success using this? Over placing a new thermostat in the fridge.

Would I need an additional fan in the fridge? If so what type of fan and what would be the simplest way of installing it?

I also understand I would have to manually defrost it. How often would one speculate that it is necessary to keep the fridge operational?

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bR0PEb3BHMVA4

I have many inkbird controllers around my house. One that converts a chest freezer into a fridge.

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.eaDEbEX4C0VJ

Inkbird makes inexpensive controllers that are simple to set up and use with a freezer. Commonly used in home brewing and kegerator setups.

I am using this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_OfpEEbJVT3Q91

These things are great my brother uses a similar model

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_908yFbHWW3A8X

Temp control is one of the biggest factors in consistent flavors when brewing the same beer. I do 5 gallon brews, and I have a Craigslist chest freezer and an inkbird temp controller aka thermostat, to turn the freezer on and off. Also has a plug for a heater. Keeps it at 72 or whatever I set it at. Something to consider if you move up to bigger batches.

Check out this temperature controller:

Inkbird temp controller

It's really simple and quite effective, just add a small heater of some sort. Good Luck

I recommend an Inkbird controller, they're just more expensive. They also have a WiFi enable one too!

An inkbird is prolly what you're looking for. Not crazy expensive.

> If so, would I be able to use some sort of temperature regulation device that can override the kegerator and it still function?

Yes. The inkbird is a common one.

Thats a good idea. I already have one for a keezer that I have at my house. To convert it are you just buying a temperature controller like this or going more heavy duty and official?

I'm sorry for your living space 😖

I found this and similar items but dont know enough about it. As far as I can see it may turn off or turn on individual items plugged in but I was hoping there might be a safer way or something similar.

My methodology will cost you about $70-80. Buy a cheap toaster oven. Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2WZTEUAHSANE1&keywords=inkbird+temperature+controller&qid=1585101576&sprefix=inkbird+temperature+controller+220v%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEI0OTZDR1hJVU5CJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDExNzYzMVM1NVZRU1VYNTIxMCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODExMjgwMVJPSVM1TVRDRDI2RCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Or you could get the 240v version if you have an electric oven. Done.

Nice. Are you wanting to do your own PID controller for the fun of it? If not, these temperature controllers are often used for homebrewing (and aquariums I think?), you could just plug your fan directly into it.

Buy yourself one of these and you’re good to go. Instead of plugging the cooler into the wall, you will plug it into the cooling port on the inkbird, and then plug the inkbird into the wall. You then set the inkbird thermostat to say, 35 degrees +- 5 for example and place the probe inside. When the temp reaches 40, it will turn on and cool it down to 35, then shut off. I would research though if someone has done this successfully for the cooler you’re using. I would worry a little about putting too much strain on the compressor since it’s not designed to go this cold.

Haha even a caveman an use an Inkbird. Hook the cold side up to the cold power side, set your temperature, and forget about it.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=inkbird&qid=1588260295&sr=8-5

But let's say you can't keep lagering temperatures. That's OK too. Safale 34/70 will make great faux lagers at ale temperatures. If you throw a packet or two in to 5 gallons you can ferment around 68F for a week. Then package (I'm assuming you're bottling), go through your normal conditioning phase, and then toss them into the refrigerator until October to drink. They'll lager just fine in bottles!

The quick lager method from brulosophy works extremely well. They've also shown that WLP830, Wyeast 2124, Saglager 34/70, Imperial L13, as well as Imperial L17 have produced an extremely good lager beer fermented at 66F.

Even at typical lager fermentation temperature, it does not take 8 weeks to ferment. It would be more like 2 weeks to ferment and then some choose to lager for additional time. Historically, the additional time was to allow the beer to naturally clarify. We can do the same thing in a few days with gelatin. I'll admit a lager changes after a couple weeks in the keg, but after that it is pretty set in it's flavor profile.

To answer the OP, yes any kegerator/fridge/keezer is perfect for fermentation temperature control, just add a temperature controller.

Most heating mats don't get much hotter than 85F, which is totally fine for kombucha homebrew. If you're concerned, you can get a temperature-controlled relay to switch it off if your brew gets above a certain temperature. InkBird has some good models. Depending on your setup, you may want to use a thermowell to submerge the temperature probe so the readings are more accurate.

I poked around with my thermometer when setting it up, and it seems to be pretty consistent. I keep a layer of cardboard on the bottom and sides to keep those bottles from getting too cold, and the thermometer towards the middle.

Below is the controller I use. Basically, I have it set up so that if it's over 57 degrees it turns on, and stops at 55 degrees. Whenever I'm in that closet, it seems to be steady at 56 to 56.5 degrees. I don't know how many times it cycles, but I would guess it only comes on maybe 2 times a day. The deep freezer is my longer term storage, so I only get in there 2-3 times a year to cycle some bottles around. Since I'm not opening it, and it's well-insulated since it's designed to be well-below freezing temps, it seems to be pretty steady.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/

I live in an old, stone building that is south facing, and I'm on the top floor. Also, if I turn the AC on too high, it blows a fuse. It's in the 80s in my apt in the summer, so the freezer was so I don't cook my wine.

I got the freezer new for $180 from Best Buy, and the controller was $35, so it's been a great system for me so far.

This is the one I use. I used it on my kegerator to lager then take it off after I keg the beer. It will hold whatever temp you set.

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating a...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_zHncEbR6Q1MSD

Having a good process and the right yeast strain can go a long way toward not needing any of that stuff but if I had to choose one... I'd go with active cooling temp control before filtering gear because a fining agent along with a cold-crash is a great way to clear as opposed to only having improved fining equipment. Since you have a bucket/carboy setup, a common and cheap method I've seen done a lot is a simple chest freezer and Inkbird controller.

Pick up a temp controller, like the popular Inkbirk ITX-308. Inexpensive and works great for both heating and cooling. I tape the probe to the side of my fermenter for more accurate temps.

Thanks for the link.

Hey I was just thinking, for aquarium heaters, is it possible to disable or override the built in temperature controller and instead just keep it on a permanent "on" setting and let an external temp controller like this do the work?

The demand for refrigeration units is higher than usual now due to COVID, but you can look into some mini fridges or kegerators on second markets (Facebook marketplace, Craigslist, Offerup). Along with that, you can get an Inkbird controller to set the temp. Alternatively, I know some folks place their fermenters into larger buckets filled with water and a little ice to help keep the temperature low. Look into fermenting with W34/70 lager yeast, it's not as demanding with temperature controls and you can ferment it at 70-72F.

Are you looking for something like this?

That one you found would work. I personally use one of these Inkbird branded ones

Deal link: Amazon

^^Note: ^^The ^^deal ^^may ^^have ^^expired ^^by ^^the ^^time ^^you ^^see ^^this ^^post.

I use this one Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NF8bFb7GMV2F0

Get a thermostat. I use one similar to this one

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_bVrBEb49G479R

You can try to get a used minifridge. There are some temperature controls you can use.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zyT5EbVDW3MGK

Awesome! I use Chitubox print profiles to store that data, but to each their own.

If you haven't done so already, I've found temperature control is really helpful, too. I picked up one of these relays and put my printer in a small-ish closet that i keep all my hubby junk in, and things. It helps keep fumes from getting around the house, and uses less energy to keep that space heated.

You can use virtually any wall-plug-in space heater with that relay. Once i set that up, the quality of my prints became extremely consistent, and from there I was able to be a little more scientific about getting the right settings.

GLHF!

Inkbird temperature controller is what you're describing. Most homebrewers use one to control temperatures in a fermenting chamber, usually a fridge to keep things cool, but also using terrarium heating pads to keep them warmer in cold garages. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC

So you can use the ink bird controller, as an example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_oQJJEbMYD94JV, then a submersible chiller or connect a fan to the ink bird AaaAnndd you could get a heat mat if you need to add heat. The controller will take care of the on/off function for you automatically for adding heat or cooling ability.

You're welcome! If a heater fails in the "on" position it could wipe out your tank. That's why I don't recommend using them unless you are sure you need it. And then you might even want to consider a controller like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=asc_df_B01HXM5UAC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198101685250&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12360615163319983582&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1021221&hvtargid=pla-318107594620&psc=1

I'm not sure what a raspberry pi pid is. I found this on Amazon, it says it goes to ~248*, think this would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_85hMEbF1AAN7K

I ferment two 5gallon batches in my chest freezer. 7cu ft would fit 2 carboys. Upgraded to 10cu ft to fit the a Ss Brewtech Brew bucket and a 2nd fermenter. Works really well and can cold crash in it too.

For temp control I use an Inkbird ITC-308 and plug a chest freezer into the cooling side and a small Space Heater into the heat and place it on the hump facing in and it does a great job at keeping the chest freezer warm when the garage is below freezing.

Also have seen people use reptile heat lamp bulbs but i like the space heater and haven’t had any issues.

Lasko 100 MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater, Compact, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XDTWN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C.YPEb1AHK30W

Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3aZPEbV0WMRQ6

Specifically the ability to control an outlet is what I mean here. I use this one: Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller 2-Stage Outlet Thermostat Heating and Cooling Mode Carboy Homebrew Fermenter Greenhouse Terrarium 110V 10A 1100W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rOgzEbGEBDB96

I use several of their controllers in different use cases around the house actually. Never had a problem with them. In this one you plug the exhaust fan into the "cool" outlet since it'll be losing temperature. If nights get cold you can also use an always on heater like a simple ceramic bulb to keep it warm enough at night.

GH and KH too, and if you do anything to make pH unstable.

If GH is 6-10 dGH, KH is 2-6 dKH, you are not playing with pH, and they do not die right after water change, with white ring of death (failed molt), could be that shrimp are from weak genetic line, unable to adapt after being kept in very different from your water. Nothing could be done for this, even if you switch to remineralized RO water. Next time try different supplier or local breeder, this does make a difference, I also experienced the same.

Sunlight could overheat water in a short time, either get digital thermometer with temperature alert (you have to be in the same room to hear it) and do something to lower temperature, or use translucent shade and put small fan between window and tank, connected to external temperature controller($35) that will start fan after temperature reaches preset by you number and turns fan off when it goes down.

I believe there are, but from what I've seen they are prohibitively expensive. Like almost $4k. On the flip side, you could buy a wine fridge that already stays in about the correct temperature range, add a humidifier and dehumidifier and controller where you just have to plug the devices in for well under $1k.

https://www.amazon.com/Humidity-Controller-Inkbird-Humidistat-Pre-wired/dp/B01J1E5LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=humidity+controller&qid=1583693146&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWNEZSRkRDRkhFRjImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxNTIzODMzODFVRTg5UTU1NUgzJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyODg2MzgyVlUxSVIxQlROVk1EJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Or for a normal fridge you can get a plug and play temp controller as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=temperature+controller&qid=1583693256&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQ0xRRjhJWURDTE8xJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTkzNTI1MTI2T0xJTDdWSVFVNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzM3NTA3MkFDVUY2MERGQ1pDRSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

And /r/homebrewing is a good resource as well for temp controlled boxes as they need temp control for fermentation. I've found both communities to be very helpful.

Not sure if this was really exactly what you were looking for, but hopefully it helps!

Interested in an inkbird 308. Right now Amazon has two of them. One has a 15% discount, but I can't figure out how the two are different. Can anyone spot the difference between this and this

That's absolutely a great idea. But don't put your buckets on top of the electric blanket. The weight will pinch the wires inside.

In fact they make special heat mats just for fermenting. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074D9FCQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_07r4FbQQ1B768

You also need a temperature controller like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Z6r4Fb277WVX4

35C is a little hot according to most sources, which recommend a max of 32 deg. I'm not sure it matters that much, though--I've had tempeh get over 100 deg F from its own heat and it came out ok. If only some packages are working I would guess you need to use more starter. I had that issue in the past and fixed it by using better quality starter. The simplest good incubator I can think of is using a thermostat like the one linked below with a worklight in some kind of insulated box, like an old fridge or maybe even your oven. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=thermostat+plug+in&qid=1594450614&sr=8-7

Good idea. My setup uses these as the main heating system:

https://www.amazon.com/Bulb-60W-E26-Infrared-Terrarium-Amphibian-AC-110V-120V/dp/B07H3YJB96/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=QP7YE59HCQ4J&dchild=1&keywords=ceramic+heat+emitter&qid=1593550152&sprefix=Ceramic+hea%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFZVFRXQUo3SlZZVk8mZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2NzYxNDMxQTVaMVk5RVFWT05SJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNzQ5MjNITUZTQTA2ODBHNlUmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have one external digital controller for each terrarium, so in total 8 of something close to these (looks the same but is a swedish version & only available in Sweden as far as I know)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXM5UAC

I'm working on a Raspberry Pi solution with a web interface with temp & humidity that will only require a few sensors and one device.

The best part is that I can control everything from everywhere around the world and send warnings and errors by mail and sms.

I run a cheap space heater. Set it to maximum heat, and plug it into this:

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https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Max-1200W-Temperature-Controller-Greenhouse/dp/B01HXM5UAC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=ranco+controller&qid=1579315974&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVzJFQzE1OUxMQk9OJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTUzNDM5MUVLUENQTDNZWllaUiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDI1OTE2VjRCTktGMzczSVdEJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I have been keeping my ball lock keg in the garage for chilling and carbonation - if I wanted to lager something I could easily use the same set up. I live in a cold area, so my garage ambient temp is anywhere from -15° to 45°F (-26° to 5°C) between late October and early May; it's not ideal but it's what I have to work with.

I'm using a 21x48" seedling starter heating mat loosely wrapped around the keg and an Inkbird ITC-308 Digital Temperature Controller set to keep it at 38±4°F. I keep the whole set up (Corny keg wrapped with the heating mat, 5lb CO2 tank, regulator and hoses) in a large double-thickness cardboard box (a 48x24x20" china box from Home Depot) lined with panels cut from a padded fire-resistant moving blanket.

I chose the extra large 105W heating mat because of those extreme lows; it's a perfect fit around my ball-lock kegs, I don't need to tape anything. The set up is working great so far; nothing has frozen, and so far the keg has been in the 33-40°F range whenever I check.

Shade cloth could be an option along with a temperature sensor that vents air via a fan from the top of the room could work to protect against the worst heat of the day. That and lots of watering.

My suggestion would be a kegging setup, so:

• a corny keg or two
• CO2 bottle
• regulator
• hoses, keg connectors, and a tap
• fridge or chest freezer
• temp controller to regulate the temp inside your fridge/freezer.

With a system like that you could carb up meads/wines after they've been stabilized and back sweetened. You could also dip you toe into beer brewing, if that was something that interested you. I've also used my kegs to carbonate water for making pop and cocktails.

​

I got my start with this kit form Adventures in Homebrewing: https://www.homebrewing.org/Homebrew-Kegging-Kit-BALL-LOCK-no-keg_p_1673.html

It includes the regulator, hoses, connectors, and a tap, with the option to adda CO2 tank. I choose to add the CO2 tank but you might not need to buy a tank if there is a good homebrew shop near you they sometimes "rent" CO2 tanks. AIH also sells new and used corny kegs, but you might find better deals on places like FB Marketplace.

For a temp controller I went with this on off amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Depending on what you get for a fridge/freezer and the price and how many kegs you get that should be within your budget.