DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.

Deoxit is a good one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU

DeoxIt

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_z8LeFbJ3TD24W

Try a can of spray electrical contact cleaner. Like this: Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AiazFbNKSE6W2

Could be. That and some tired capacitors are pretty common. Could even be just as simple as dirty controls. I, and many others on here, use and love DeoxIT, works great on scratchy switches and pots.

Deoxit

This stuff is supposed to be pretty good for getting corroded ports working again.

Here ya go. Have at it.

I got so many dead or defective old receivers back in the day. The first thing we’d do is remove the cover and hose it down with Trichloroflouroethelene type III.

But since that shit‘ll kill ya, use the deoxit and some compressed air. That unit spent years on a shelf behind a bar just cranking away.

My keyboardist has an amp in his garage that does exactly this. He hasn't fixed it but it drives me crazy! I would mess around with all the knobs (especially ones like volume, gain, master) and see if there's any crackling throughout the turn. If there is any crackling, hitting it with some Deoxit and working it into the pot might do wonders for you. Heck, even if there isn't any crackling it still might help :D

Deoxit is great stuff to have around too. It can be used to clean basically anything electrical or circuit based. I've used it on my bass pots, and even the analog sticks on my gaming controllers!

It looks like the trigger is a simple push button switch. Sometimes these get stuck in the closed position which would cause the gun to run constantly. Usually the red cap can be removed, and an electronics part cleaner could be sprayed on the switch. Make sure to unplug the gun from power first. Beyond that, you'd likely need go disassemble the gun and replace the switch.

This is the cleaner I'd recommend:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_TcLPFbM2GG1TF

Having some issues with a Technics SU-V650. Specifically where I’ll have the audio drop either the left or right channels and sometimes both. Through trial and error, I’ve found that the phone selector button is either directly or indirectly tied to the root cause.

I have a Rega P2 for a table with the stock Rega Carbon cartridge which I know is a moving magnet cartridge so I keep the phono selector set to MM. however when the audio drops, if I "toggle" between MC and MM, I can get the audio to come back and it usually stays but out of know where it can happen again.

I've considered taking the reciever to a local repair shop but wanted to see if it's something I could fix at home. I've already taken the back off and hit the pots with some de-oxit and that resolved a separate issue I had with the volume knob/potentiometer being scratchy when changing levels.

Hoping someone has had similar issue, if more information is needed let me know.

> Thank the maker?

DeoxIT?

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

First thing is to take the case off and clean all the pots and switches with Deoxit contact cleaner.

This is a strange-sounding issue, never seen anything quite like it.

But - first, eliminate the low-hanging fruit. After fifty years the contacts and sliders are corroded and dirty and will definitely need to be cleaned.

Spray some deoxit D5 into the slider and move it up and down until it stops doing that. Usually works.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=55038552454&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2_y72PiD5wIVgqDsCh0JnA3WEAAYASAAEgJ5QPD_BwE&hvadid=274701758150&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032419&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=4379888470859983274&hvtargid=kwd-1899419425&hydadcr=3771_9619997&keywords=deoxit+d5&qid=1579034178&sr=8-3

Gotcha. Well if desoldering is out of the question, I would probably flip the board upside down, depress the switch and spray some contact cleaner inside the switch, followed by some compressed air.

Just spitballing to give you some ideas. I've used the deoxit to fix double clicking on my mice switches before and it worked great. But if your choices are getting a new keyboard or trying to fix it this is what I would do.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_thsiEbBM8KJBK

Just spray it with the car off and keep pressing the button a bunch. Wait a couple of minutes, and try it. If it still doesn't work, turn the car off and repeat the process.

Even if it says it also lubricates? I found this on Amazon and it says it lubricates as well as cleans. FYI I’m genuinely asking, not trying to be a smartass lol.

DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_CvQUFbQRNRSPW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you get de-oxit deoxidizing contact cleaner and put a little bit on the volume port and turn the dial a BUNCH to move it around, it should fix the issue.

Sounds like dirty pots.. Did you buy the Nektar used? It's obvious you don't want to return it or have Nektar fix it, so..

You can try a can of contact cleaner. The one in the link is very popular with guitarists for removing the crunch from their volume and tone pots. This stuff can potentially mar plastic, depending on the brand.

You'll want to remove the knobs and maybe tape off around the fader slot. Then stick the spray tube in the slot as much as possible - don't force it in there, and don't spray a lot. Move the slider all the way to one end, give a quick spray along the whole thing. Then move it to the other end and spritz it again. Slide the fader back and forth a few times. Repeat for the other faders. It might not get all of the noise out of all of them, but they should be a lot better.

It might last a year, or one or more might get worse again next week, but that can should last a long time, so just do it again. Eventually, either a slider will stop working, or the contact cleaner will stop helping. Hopefully that's a long time in the future.

The two things I would recommend before doing any serious work would be to:

• douse the switch with either 91% or greater isopropyl alcohol or Deoxit and actuate the switch quickly a bunch of times - if it's a contact problem, that might very well fix it
• check the solder on the bottom of the PCB to make sure the reset switch doesn't have any cold solder joints; if you have a soldering iron, you may just go ahead and reflow those contacts anyway

If neither of those does the trick, then the switch is likely bad and will need to be replaced.

Is that your charge port? If so I'd start by hitting that thing and the charger plug with a good quality contact cleaner. Something like this one, 3M makes some good ones too. See if that fixes or changes your issue.

I'd also do like someone else mentioned and go try a public charger or two try and find one with the type 2 cord attached so you can rule out your charger as the problem. If the car still charges on CCS fast chargers that also points towards your charger or cord as the issue.

Is this it? Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_vuq2Eb1JZEDHE

Fuck sorry I'm on mobile and it keeps opening my stupid Amazon app so I can't copy the URL off the browser... Hopefully you can see it or at least the name.

I have tried cleaning the connections multiple times but never with something like that. I just did a thorough cleaning under the battery and esc, which was pretty dirty. I'm on a ride right now and so far haven't had any issues so I'm hoping that is the problem and I just need to clean it more often... Did any v3 boards have this issue or was it v2 and before? I was thinking about maybe trying to put some sealer around the esc to stop dirt and shit from getting in there as there is definitely a small gap. I just put a new motor in so it's not that. If none of this works I might just have to buy a new esc.

Like I said in my main post I don't really think it is the connectors because I can just power cycle/resync the remote and board without actually disconnecting/reconnecting the contacts and the motor will work again but idk. Thank you for the advice!

Try using an electrical contact cleaner with a cotton bud to clean out the metal contacts on your speaker. If you had corrosion/oxidation on your wires, it's likely you have corrosion on the spring terminal contacts too.

I'd recommend stripping back to some new wire after cleaning.

Hope that helps.

EDIT: You could replace the terminal, but that should be your last port of call. The plastic part is just an extra hold to press the cable against the contact.

Try a fresh length of cable if it's still not working, then pull open the terminal and see if you have a broken connection.

servos rarely go bad but they can be a real pain to deal with.

typically on the old radio systems the connectors become heavily corroded. if the original radio was a futaba G connector it can become a real challenge to restore the system. old radio wires can also form an electrolytic corrosion on the ground wires. sometimes it is so bad that all the ground wires have to be replaced from the PCB boards to the connector as these corroded wires will not even take solder. this type of corrosion happens when somebody finished playing with these but left the battery connected it forms complete circuit and over time the corrosion kills everything.

i restore old radio systems and electronics so it is easier to replace rather then repair. however old radio systems can be worth money to collectors and the cars value can increase if it had its original period correct radio gear installed and even more valuable if the radio system works.

DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. is a great contact cleaner, also automotive electrical cleaners that are plastic safe. there is also special tools to clean off connectors without damaging them.

The super champ MSC was a complex nightmare to keep in operation. it used 2 adjustable resistor banks that set the speed for 1st,2nd and 3rd stepped speeds and also controlled the dynamic brake. yes this is what make the super champ special for the time as it was the competition version of the sand scorcher/rough rider/ford 150xlt which came earlier. the MSC used on the super champ and some other higher end tamiya models was the "racing speed controller" the MSC also had some reverse voltage protection for the BEC with a Diode. this helped prevent a voltage spike from the motor feedback blowing out older receivers that did not have internal BEC protection. BEC. Battery Eliminator Circuit. BECs came out later and equipped receivers have a little BEC logo on them.

so the super champ got 3 forward speeds, a brake with 2 modes(weak and strong) and reverse. typically back then you setup the transmitter to neutral on the brake circuit. so when you let off the throttle you would brake. you could then adjust the trim and setup the coast instead of brake or adjust the resistor back to have a slightly lighter or heavier brake effect or adjust the neutral to fall on weak or strong brake on the MSC . however this was nothing like a modern brake you are used to. the cars did not "stop on a dime" they just had reduced Coasting. you had to plan your driving accordingly.

when you got in trouble you blipped the reverse to stop the buggy.

again these MSCs were a huge pain to deal with. many people swapped them for the first transistorized ESCs transistorized mechanical MSCs. the first modern ESCs with mosfets came out in 1984(delta autodrive) (1985 was the first main stream ESC with the first novaks) a full 2 years after the original super champ release and by then the superchamp was long replaced by the tamiya frog in 1983 with the more usual 3 step forward/3 step reverse MSC we all remember. the tamiya frog was the tamiya 2wd racer high performance replacement for the super champ. the frog was replaced by the Fox in 1985.(interestingly the tamiya fox was the first tamiya model to use the modern CVA shocks(yellow)

the modern super champ re-release(fighting buggy 2014) came with a modern ESC.

food for thought enjoy the Super champ.

​

if you want a new front bumper to go back to stock

https://www.ebay.com/itm/TAMIYA-1-10-Fighting-Buggy-2014-front-bumper-84389/264636372732?hash=item3d9d8e96fc:g:NLEAAOSwqu9VJiho

the bumpers always broke easy as they were ABS with metal inserts in a crash they would snap or crack

​

you can also change from the spooled rear to a ball diff if you want. it helps decrease the turning radius. however these are now rare and can be expensive

original version is Tamiya 84113

Version 2 is tamiya #54897

they all sold like hot cakes.

also about 8-10 years ago rcchannel had a complete rear suspension that changed the design to get rid of the radical camber changes as the suspension compresses.

it added an upper suspension arm giving the buggy and all the other variants a much better rear suspension setup.

these kits are also now very rare and expensive if you can find one.

I was in the same boat when upgrading TVs before I got a real system with a receiver. You need either rca male (red, white) to 3.5mm female like the other guy said or a digital to analog converter to go from digital (optical) to analog 3.5mm. As for speaker placement that's tricky as those are computer speakers and they are angled up by about 15 to 30 degrees meaning where you have them may be best depending on distance but I'd also try then beside your tv and see which sound better. Ideally you would want to place them closest to the front edge to avoid the sound reflecting off of your TV stand. I have them at my desk and they seem to be rather directional so I'd make sure you point them to face at the center of your listening position. Easiest way to do that for me is sit in the center of your couch and rotate the speakers till you can't see the sides of them. Also placing the subwoofer in cabinet isn't recommended although I'd say how it is probably best if you can't move it out to a more preferred location. Lastly if you're having issues with the volume knobs causing the speakers to cut in and out or crackle get a can of this or a similar electronic contact cleaner and do this with the product I linked.

If you use the paddles, you need to do something first. Get a can of this stuff, open the back of the paddles up, find the potentiometers, which are the little metal things seen here. Squirt a bunch of that deoxit into the potentiometers and turn them back and forth while you do it. Then let them dry before using.

If you don't do this, as old as they are, it's very likely that they won't work, or they'll be really flaky.

I guess the brand is actually Hosa, but they definitely have the term Deoxit copyrighted. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/

Let's start very very simple-but time consuming here. You'll need some sandpaper, spray contact cleaner (there's a brand called DeOxit that gets thrown around a lot but any really will do fine) , di-electric grease, and terminal end cleaners. Also include small pliers and picks for the really stubborn connectors as well as basic sockets to remove fasteners holding down grounds, connectors, or other components making it hard to reach electrical connectors. And compressed air if so desired.

Start by disconnecting & removing the battery-we want it OUT of the way so that there is absolutely no chance of creating any accidental shorts while cleaning. Take pictures with a cell phone or label connectors before unplugging.

Then starting on the side of the engine bay at the PCM/TCM (ECU) unplug the connectors, and look for what are commonly called "the green crusties" which can be green, blue, white, etc. Clean both them and the pins on the PCM if any corrosion is found starting with the electrical contact cleaner and then the terminal end cleaners. It may help to remove the PCM from the engine bay for better access. Use both of these until the connectors and the pins on the PCM side are free of any corrosion. Once they're nice and clean or if no corrosion was found to begin with pack the pin areas with a thin layer of di-electric grease and plug the connectors back in.

Then move onto the largest and most visible fuse box-remove the fasteners and unplug the connectors. If any corrosion is found remove the fuse box cover and take a picture before removing every fuse, relay, mega-fuse, etc. You will be cleaning both the connectors, the connection points on the bottom of the fuse box, and every spot where fuses, relays, etc go into the top of the box. Repeat this for any secondary fuse boxes, relay boxes, etc in the engine compartment. Again before you plug the connectors in the bottom of it pack the pin areas with a layer of di-electric grease

Now look for any ground wires starting with the one coming off of your battery. Remove the fastener holding the eyelet and use the sandpaper to clean the eyelet, the fastener, and the part of the body it mounts to clean shiny metal. Continue with locating and cleaning the grounds one by one, reinstalling them as they are cleaned.

Finally put everything back together (including the battery) and start and drive the vehicle to see if the codes return. If they do repeat this process with the direct connections to the named components: ABS control unit, oxygen sensor(s), etc

One way I find stuff like that is to search for the model of the thing I have, and the word "teardown." A teardown usually means dissassembling something to learn about it. Another search term that sometimes works is "repair." A good teardown video or photo gallery will show you where fasteners & clips are, as well as the location and type of the internal switches.

Almost all remotes that I've taken apart use what are called membrane switches. Membrane switches (in this case,) consist a pattern of contacts on the printed circuit board, and a rubber/silicons top sheet. The top sheet is printed on the top -- it's what you see of the buttons. On the bottom of the rubber sheet are round circles of a black (usually) conductive material. When you press down on the button, that black circle presses against the contacts on the circuit board.

You can clean the copper contacts and black conductive disks by rubbing lightly with a pencil eraser. A better way is to use a proper electronics contact cleaner, like Caig DeoxIT. Don't go crazy scrubbing the contacts -- they're quite thin. There are other, cheaper contact cleaner sprays. Some work fine, but often leave behind a lubricant film that traps dust and other gunk from your fingers. (Like WD-40; it's notorious for attracting & trapping stuff. That's bad for electrical contacts (and other things.))

Pull the board and power supply to clean them from all of the rust particles. Spray the board with IPA (isopropyl 71% or higher) and clean it a tooth brush.

Use vinegar and a wire brush to remove the rust from the metal chasse. Use a spray paint for car engine blocks to paint the chasse. Auto engine paints can withstand high temperatures. *Don't use rustoleum, vaspar, or other non engine spray paints.

You can also buy a spray can of Dexoit to clean and lubricate the console fan. It will clean out dirt debri and lubricate thus making the fan run quieter.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=132M7M60L1DO0&dchild=1&keywords=dexit+d5&qid=1602045095&sprefix=dexoit%2Caps%2C433&sr=8-1

Replace the clock capacitor and you'll have a nicely refurbished Xbox (just clock cap at botttom link).

https://console5.com/store/microsoft-xbox-original-cap-kit.html

I have personally used https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/ and can vouch it is not dangerous. However,

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/

appears to be much more suited to this sort of task, since it has plastic. It's not really WD-40, it's just the brand, but the problem with the specialist cleaner is it's for PCBs specifically and the plastic may not be friendly with the seepage.

DeoxIT is reported to be plastic-safe, so no worry whatsoever. May pick some up myself.

YES it did work to stop the squeaky trigger. Don't bother RMAing it, they'll send you yet another new controller that will do the SAME THING. Literally, holy moly, I'm so mad I wasted my time.