Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)

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Tools & Home Improvement Welding & Soldering Soldering & Brazing Equipment Soldering Stations

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Hakko

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0 posts • 38 mentions • top 34 shown below

r/functionalprint • comment
3 points • nocjef

This Hakko iron is super nice and of higher build quality than a Weller.

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ANKyFb520E67W

r/TinyWhoop • comment
3 points • WyoRip

This will last years! Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DZifEbVBTFJRC

r/fountainpens • comment
2 points • crazyg0od33

i've never tried a split board before, but would def. give it a shot. I've heard once you go that route you usually fall in love haha.

Yeah I had to get a new (smaller) tip for my Hakko solder station, but if you do any soldering to the point where that would be worth it, I can't recommend it enough. It's amazing

r/buildapcsales • comment
2 points • ChicknWhisperer

This is what I have.

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_7Fq3Eb7TNQM8K

If your just starting out then at least buy a temperature controlled one.

r/homelab • comment
1 points • SurfWyoming

It's super easy to pick up. Pick up a cheap solder iron from Walmart, some solder, and go find some old computer parts to practice with. After you get the hang of it, you can invest in a nice solder station. It's a great skill to learn. You can fix and build a lot of things.

r/MechanicalKeyboards • comment
1 points • djmantis

I have and enjoy the Hakko one. I have also heard really good things about the Ts100 like other people have recommended.

r/AskElectronics • comment
1 points • Hack3rPT

They seem to recommend the Hakko FX888D. What do you think about it, and also it would be great if you could tell me if it is this model right here: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

r/soldering • comment
1 points • Goatzinger

I personally have a Hakko 888d and I love it. I will be getting the KSGER T12 for a back up. Here is a Amazon link for the Hakko 888d https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

r/MechanicalKeyboards • comment
1 points • puddleOfsnakes

Personally use this. Good cheap entry soldering iron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_1RNAFbV2WCZR4

r/MechanicalKeyboards • comment
1 points • _damnfinecoffee_

This guy right here: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

I can't think of a better iron for small electronics. I suggest just copping this one and being done with it.

r/arduino • comment
1 points • frompdx

My personal recommendation is a Hakko FX888D.

Looks like a toy but it isn't. Very well built.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

r/customGCC • comment
1 points • BlamingBuddha

Damn man that TS100 looks dope! I didbt know they had thin, "smart" soldering irons like that! I actually have a tactile Z button and planned on doing the mod soon. Do you know if the TS100 would work for that (and wires) in general? I was originally recommended a solder station like this.

It seems some of the solder stations also have hot air rework built in which would be nice for removing solder.. but damn are they bulky, ugly and pricey.

That TS100 looks really convenient. Plus firmware updates? Awesome. Hopefully it could work for rewiring and such as well. I wonder if that's a better choice than a solder station.

r/AnnArbor • comment
1 points • sandpapersocks

I'm good at soldering (have soldered SMD parts before) and have a Hakko FX888 soldering station. I don't have extremely fine solder (I have 1mm solder and if you need me to solder some tiny SMD parts, it would be helpful to have thinner solder (if it's a few wires, the 1mm should work fine)).

r/AskElectronics • comment
1 points • 4b-65-76-69-6e

Don’t do it. Weller and Hakko make very nice temperature controlled soldering stations for about $100. Save up for one of those, because this is just your pencil iron with a stand and a knob.

...well, that’s exactly what the Hakkos and Wellers are, but their controls are marked in degrees F or C, not an arbitrary 1-9 scale.

I’m not familiar with Weller’s offerings beyond knowing they’re comparable to what I use, which is a (Hakko FX-888D)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M] and a horseshoe tip. This is the setup I use for nearly all soldering I do, and I do a LOT of soldering; both through hole and SMD. Lastly, you’ll be fine with a conical tip for now since that’s probably what you’re used to, but a good chisel tip or horseshoe will serve you much better in the long run.

r/arduino • comment
1 points • ZombieGrot

Hakko FX888D (available from many other sellers than A but there are also counterfeits so know your vendor).

Buy once, cry once. It's a solid iron, replaceable/swappable tips for different jobs, quality manufacturer.

r/malefashionadvice • comment
1 points • SuddleT

Not sure how deep you're into soldering, but the Hakko FX888D is highly recommended by every hobbyist subreddit that involves soldering. I finally talked myself into buying one and I have zero regrets.

r/MechanicalKeyboards • comment
1 points • kiesla

There is a Hakko Soldering Station that is generally a go to Here. Additionally I suggest investing in a desoldering pump just in case you need to desolder anything.

r/diyelectronics • comment
1 points • IlikeVintageComputer

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

This is what I have. For 100 dollars you get UL listing so if it burns your house down (which it won’t unless you leave it on :P) you will get insurance payout. It’s a good quality iron.

r/AskElectronics • comment
1 points • wildjokers

I don't know what you consider cheap, but the Hakko FX888 is onlky $104.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

I always find those cheap $20 irons you can get most anywhere to be cheap junk and not worth the time. All they will do is frustrate you. Just get something like the Hakko.

r/soldering • comment
1 points • DR650SE

[Hakko FX888D](https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fx888&qid=1578604399&sr=8-1) $100 and get a set of tips. Leaves you money for a hot air station and maybe a microscope.

r/GamingLaptops • comment
1 points • werdmonkey4321

I also don't have a soldering iron right now. That's why I didn't do it that way. XD

I'm going to save up some money and get a good digital soldering iron, something like the Hakko FX888D.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=digital+soldering+iron&qid=1596091211&sr=8-7

This way I have a good soldering iron for doing finer modifications on the motherboard as well as soldering these heat pipes together. I'm considering making modifications to do a GPU shunt mod in the future to increase the TDP of the GPU to 90-100W.

r/IWantToLearn • comment
1 points • flugbone

Okay I learned soldering a while ago. and it was extremely frustrating for me in the begining because people dont know how to teach it.

first off the iron, You can buy a cheap iron they're fine. I personally got a nice Hakko soldering iron But really any will work.

Be kinda careful when working with solder (use gloves) because some flux core solder and lead core solder are kinda posinous. (like its a very small amount) but i prefer to work with some nitrile gloves so my hands don't get residue on them.

I also use a respirator becuase i have very sinsitive lungs and eyes and it just makes me not deal with those issues ( you don't really need this, unless you have sensitive respiratory issues.

Finally there is solder. there are many diffrent kinds of solder. Some with rosing core some with lead. Basically the best stuff has lead in it, it melts the best and applies the best... but. lead is toxic. so now days companies have phased out lead in solder in favor of safer options. It just depends on if you care or not. I mean leads not great for you, but soldering a bit wont kill you. so.....

There is also flux. SOLDER STICKS TO FLUX. When there is "rosin core" solder that is solder with flux already in the middle of the rod so you dont need any extra flux. but its often easier to buy a tube of flux, apply it to the connections you want, then use non rosin core solder to adhere to the flux.

now here is the critical part. this took me a while to figure out. THE POINT OF SOLDERING IS NOT TO MELT THE SOLDER ON THE TIP OF THE IRON AND SOMEHOW SPREAD IT ON THE CONNECTION

then the solder/flux

r/beneater • comment
1 points • pintoa

  1. Can you tell me what are the properties of a 'shitty' solder, I don't think I have sufficient knowledge to identify one. What are the pitfalls of using such a cheap soldering rod?

  2. following your advice, I searched for the hakko product, is this the one(https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=hakko+888&qid=1585677819&sr=8-2)?

  3. You said, but different kind of solder heads, i am unsure where the point head is used versus where the chisel head is used. Can you help there?

  4. Also I believe you said there are other thig like solder and flux and heads I need, sponge as well? Alcohol to clean after? Can you help me identify links in amazon which are compatible with the hakko solder? Given that I am really new, actual links help. I apologize to have to ask you this.

For a frame of reference, lets say, I want to practice building a radio, before I try to build the ben eater kit. Lets say I will build this kit(https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-FM-88K-FM-Radio-Kit/dp/B004YHZE0G/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=eleco+radio+kit&qid=1585689758&sr=8-2-spell). I am using actual examples, because I have a feeling the head needed to solder will depend on how dense the PCB is?

r/guitarpedals • comment
1 points • toughduck53

Just more of a general guide to what u need and don't need to start soldering, but here's a little copy paste I made awhile ago for that

if you don't plan on doing much soldering in the future and it's more of a one time thing, there's really no reason to get anything bore expensive than this. I spend easily 60 hours of solid soldering on the earlier version of this (same thing just without the leds) and I only ever replaced it because the tips were getting worn out (although you can replace the tips for cheap) and because I thought I deserved a more solid iron considering how much soldering I do.

if you do plan on doing lots of soldering in the future then I would recommend getting something other than a weller, they're honestly just one of those things that for years have been the industry standard but honestly have gone down hill. I've used a dozen different wellers, some old some new, some cheap some costing 300$ but none of them are really good. I, along with almost everyone in electronic repair industry like Luis Rossmann recommend a brang called hakko. I use atd absolutely love the hakko fx888d. It's really honestly just magic. It heats up to 700+ in under 30 seconds, with a live temperature readout (my old weller would take close to 15 minutes), atd the tips are really just magic, they just don't get corroded at all like every other brand I've used.

It's also worth mentioning for anyone new to soldering that the type of solder used makes a world of difference. What your going to want in rosin core, leaded solder (preferably 63/37 but 60/40 will work too). You want rosin core because it makes it a ton easier to not have to worry about flux, atd unless your doing really tiny electronic you won't need flux beyond the rosin core. You want leaded solder for a few reasons. First off, it melts at a way lower temperature (leaded solder melts at about 360f ish where lead free is closer to 460-480f, but saying that that's not at all the temps you wound use to actually solder at, it ranges from 400 - 700f depending on the application ). Leaded also has a way better surface tension, and melts more evenly, all this really just adds up to making it 100 times easier to work with, ESPECIALLY if you need to desolder anything.

r/Stained_Glass • comment
1 points • zombiprofe

I had this one as my first and it worked great.

I've heard this one is good too, but haven't tried it.

r/diydrones • comment
4 points • coherent-rambling

It's almost impossible to be successful in this hobby without gaining some skill at soldering (or just throwing tons of money at prebuilts). You might as well start now.

A couple things to be aware of that might help you out, though:

  1. Get a half-decent iron. This doesn't mean expensive - the SH72 is great if you can wait for shipping from China. But you need a fine-tipped iron good for at least 40 watts (and not a whole lot more than that unless it's thermostat-controlled, which is highly recommended anyway). The Weller WLC100 is okay, the famous TS100 is incredible, and the Hakko FX888D is the nicest setup most people can justify.
  2. Use thin, rosin-core 63/37 leaded solder. 60/40 is almost as good, if it's easier for you to get. DO NOT use plumbing solder, unleaded solder, or acid-core solder.
  3. Clean your soldering iron tip frequently on brass wool. Skip the wet sponge.
  4. Tin the soldering iron tip (wet it with solder) after cleaning and again before applying to parts.
  5. Tin both parts (the pad and the wire), then hold them together and touch the iron to the parts. The tinned coatings will flow together and you may not even need to add more solder.
  6. If you're still struggling, add rosin flux. DO NOT use plumbing flux. DO NOT use acid flux. But, despite what a lot of people on Reddit say, you don't need to drench every single solder joint in flux, either - it can be helpful, but it's messy and often not needed.

r/pocketoperators • comment
1 points • hedelbert

TS100 Soldering Iron (cheapest) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GgepEbEDTFNHF

Hakko FX888D Soldering Iron (recommended) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QkepEbESSECG1

Soldering Practice Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714CYPC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lmepEbJFP3YN8

r/Gameboy • comment
2 points • BlkJackSabbath

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mWVgFbV3B0TSG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195UVWJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nXVgFbPCC89FR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZIV85A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JXVgFbECHYFGM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DYVgFb078FE3S

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61D22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f1VgFbX9QD8WY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x2VgFb5DWWDFC

With all this equipment, there's few jobs you can't do.

The key is keeping a clean, oxide-free tip. Never leave the iron on for long periods of time. Clean the tip with the wire pad after every solder joint. Keep the iron on for the minimum amount of time it takes to do the job.

This is an iron that will serve you for decades. The case is sturdy, thick metal, with an impressive blue and yellow powder coat finish. I'll be using this into my old age.

r/dvorak • comment
1 points • zrevyx

You can get started for relatively little - some soldering irons can be found for as cheap as $10, but remember - with regard to soldering equipment, you get what you pay for. I went over the top and got a full Hakko kit. You can now get a slightly less-inclusive kit than the one I purchased for less than half of what I paid for mine. Hakko FX888D-23BY on Amazon. The FX888D is a great iron and well liked my many folks. This page on input.club's website is a great resource as well: https://input.club/recommended-soldering-products/

r/diysound • comment
1 points • Nixxuz

Here's the manual and instructions, and there's an entire series of YT vids showing step by step how to build it.

It's really very easy compared to the cheaper Chinese kits that might have a list of components. I would have a:

Soldering iron and solder, preferably Kester 63/37, as it's very easy to work with.

File, or dremel with a small sanding tip, as the circuit boards need to be cut/snapped apart.

Good work light. I prefer one of those "helping hands" units. Makes it much easier.

And I used one of these as well. Super handy.

You don't need some of that stuff, but you will have a much better time of things if you do. And tools don't stop being useful after the project is over.

I'd also suggest a good soldering iron if you plan on doing more projects as time goes on. Those shitty $15 Chinese irons get the job done, but a good iron is a joy to work with in comparison. But that's just me.

r/MechanicalKeyboards • comment
3 points • Ganynn

Yeah lots! First of all, don't be intimidated by the process, building one is super easy, even if you are soldering, I had literally never seen a soldering iron the first time I built a board.

As far as advice, they can be expensive, so i'd figure out a budget first. These Ortho boards are great, I love Jack and OLKB so they have been my go to, but there are plenty of other Ortho manufacturers out there as well.

NOTE: Don't take this advice at face value, my biggest piece of advice for anyone is DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH, AND DO LOTS OF IT. This stuff below is just what I have found and know about, but there are tons of retailers and options for whatever you want, spend some time digging around on different subreddits and sites until you figure it out.

Also, be sure to watch some videos of keyboard builds, it will give you a much better idea of what is required and how they work / come together.

I personally like TaehaTypes, here is a video of him building the same kit I posted above. Keep in mind however, he works on these for a living, and his other videos are mostly for client builds. He is super smart, and friendly, but his equipment and boards tend to be incredibly high-end, don't think you can't make a board just cause you can't afford the $250 soldering iron he has or the $1,500 KeyCult board he is assembling.

The Preonic is currently sold out at Drop which is a shame but I would imagine it will be back in-stock soon.

If the price is too high however, you should check out the XD75. This is a much cheaper option and is bigger than the preonic, which gives you some more customization.

You'll need a PCB first, the XD75 has a Hotswap and Solderable version.

Then i'd grab a Plate, this adds a lot of stability to the board, most people use them AFAIK, but some prefer to not have one.

Then you'll need a case, here is an aluminum one with a diffuser for under-mount LED's, but it's a little pricey, seems like they are sold out of standard ones on this site however.

Then you'll need some switches. This is the hard part, everyone's preference is different. This especially i'd do lots of research on. NovelKeys has a pretty good selection though.

Finally you need a cable, any will do, just make sure it has the right end depending on your PCB. You'll also need keycaps, PimpMyKeyboard has a pretty good selection of basic stuff, but keycaps are like there whole own world ontop of keyboards. Finally, if you bought a solderable board, you'll need a soldering iron and solder. I used something similar to this when I started and it was cheap and got the job done. If you have more money and want to do this a lot, something like this is great.

If you just want a nice Ortho board, the Planck-EZ is great, but it is pre-built so it will ship ready to use. It's also smaller by one row than the Preonic I posted.

Let me know if you want any other info or advice, happy to help, just remember, take what i'm saying with a grain of salt! Good luck, and don't be scared!

r/diyguitar • comment
1 points • tmbridge

lol.. oh man..

What a can of worms I've opened...

I'm a tinkerer by nature and I'm also a woodworker by hobby. I have converted my garage into a woodworking shop and I have one corner with a carpeted workbench dedicated to guitar work (I buy, fix up, setup, and flip guitars about 1 per month).

A corner of that workbench is dedicated to soldering and electronics because all I've needed to ever do is replace a bad component or swap a PUP.

It sounds like, if I'm really going to get into this tone chasing thing -- and it feels like I am :D -- I'd better invest in a proper soddin' eye-run and perhaps build dedicate more space on the pegboard to proper tooling.

Any recommendations on a proper soldering iron? I have a $20 amazon special right now. It's gotten the job done, but I feel I've jumped head first into a rabbit hole!

I've heard good thinks about Hakko but they seem pricey. I'm sure it's worth it so I'll bite the bullet if need be, but I was wondering if you have any other thoughts. https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1602631305&sr=8-14

These three are on sale for Amazon Prime Day -- any good or should I just buy once cry once and get the Hakko?

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-CURCONSA-Adjustable-Switching-Regulated/dp/B08BZHB185/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron&psr=PDAY&qid=1602631979&s=prime-day&sr=1-10

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Station-Merece-176%E2%84%89-896%E2%84%89-Temperature/dp/B087832Y16/ref=psdc_13837391_t2_B083K2JQQ5

https://www.amazon.com/LONOVE-Soldering-Iron-Station-Kit/dp/B083K2JQQ5/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1602631305&sr=8-6