Hakko-CHP-170 Micro Cutter - Red

Both sets are good in their own right.

The original set is good because if you want to expand they currently have more options released and in stock, for example if you wanted to expand a rebel army not only do you have the choice between Tauntauns and Wookies, both are relatively easy to find online. With clones and droids you're pretty much stuck to what comes in the core set for the next few weeks(maybe even months) even if you can find a unit of Phase II clones right now, they're going for above retail costs.

The clone wars set has better quality models over all. The models fit better and have better sculpts. I noticed a couple of the core rebel models don't fit together that well out of the box, leading to small gaps where two pieces meet, additionally some of the old sculpts are just bad, for example the original Leia sculpt is pretty rough. But on the flip side, the droids take a long time to put together, there's a lot of small thin pieces that must be glued to each other, which can be a bit daunting.

For assembling the original core set and clones all you need is super glue. I use super glue gel as it's a bit thicker and doesn't run as much.

For assembling droids you'll need something to cut them off the sprue. Technically you can get away with just using a hobby knife, but I highly suggest picking up a set of flush wire cutters. For droid and other hard plastic models you can get away with using super glue, but plastic glue gives you a better end result, and they tend to come with needle applicators which makes you life so much easier.

Painting will depend on which models you pick and your budget.

I personally recommend these for thicker nails.

I use these model snippers. These ones are cheap and good enough but there are other really nice and expensive options. After snipping them off just higher than the model I then use an exacto knife or file to shave it down.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=model+snippers&qid=1601604304&sr=8-2

These by Hakko are really nice (nicer than the ones that come with the printer) if you're just after the cutters

That mod took waaaaaaay to much work. All the triangles were done with hand tools. I use these micro cutters all the time. Super useful. Trim fingernails nicely too lol

Awesome, I'll order the 205g0. What sort of clipper is proper for trimming stabs? I definitely have a nail one, but something like this would be best right?

I like these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_CWGGFbYKXSB10

I have a pair of wire snips that are perfect for getting in and cutting that chunk out.

Highly recommend these

one of the cheapest and best tools you will ever buy:

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3EAHVV6A96PAV&keywords=flush+cutter&qid=1579217835&sprefix=flush+cut%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-4

My go to: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_652sFbTKKX4CK

That's the one I use. It works well! Just a different handle type from Hakko. It's a little cheaper too.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hakko+micro+cutter&qid=1605961416&sr=8-4

Since it looks like your going to be needing new ones

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=flush+cutter&qid=1590090664&sr=8-3

These are what I use and they are high quality.

Scissors? Really?

Save yourself some pain. Buy a $5 flush cutter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

Hakko CHP-170. Can usually find them for $4-$8. They're meant for thin gauge wires but work perfect for plastic too!

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ but you can get significantly cheaper if you order the 2/3/5 packs

these cutters are good as well and cheap.

Gitchu sum

Are those Hakko? I have a dozen or so and used them for years, eventually they dull or distort but never any major issues

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O0OrFbX7K9E3B

The Hakko ones are surprisingly cheap on Amazon. I snagged a pair last month to replace my really old and well used generic ones.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/

Flush cutters. I have 3 pairs within reach in my home at all times. They're like mini, but sharp, wire cutters. Typically used by telecommunications technicians to trim copper cabling and smooth zip-tie ends.

I use them to do everything from trim nails (human and canine) to pull splinters out of toddler fingers. They're sharper/stronger than scissors, but more precise than the standard wire cutters.

They do wear out, so I consider them a semi-consumable item. Last time I bought some, I think they were $5 a pair on Amazon. (Edit: $8.77 as of today)

Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L.7lEbGTQ7SKX

You should really cut those flush against the head. Use these: Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ynNkEbRXRHCP1

I own a ton of side cutters. One day I got tired of losing them and ordered a 5 pack. I have no idea how many I actually still have, but whenever I need one, I can locate one within a few seconds.

I don't do much in the summer. But in the winter, my calluses will crack and it's painful when it does. This sounds weird but I use these to cut off my callus after showering.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

Most Zip Ties are permanent, not meant to be undone/loosened. Cut them off using a small precision wirecutter like these: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

Be careful not to cut the wires/cables though.

Well, they make easy to build boxes that come with just a few guys that are push fit/easier to assemble. Since you just want to decorate your room, those may be the best way forward.

If you were getting deeper in, I'd say:

Buy some clippers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy some glue: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gram-Clear/dp/B00KPYB05A/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=gorilla+glue&dchild=1&keywords=gorilla+glue&pd_rd_i=B00KPYB05A&pd_rd_r=a866ba3b-56d7-4a5b-ba7d-7fa5a82db234&pd_rd_w=6gzMg&pd_rd_wg=egXce&pf_rd_p=1da5beeb-8f71-435c-b5c5-3279a6171294&pf_rd_r=PCF7VRVRHKGSA30FV22F&psc=1&qid=1593559712&sr=1-1-70f7c15d-07d8-466a-b325-4be35d7258cc

Get an exacto knife.

Use the clippers to separate from the sprue. Use the exacto knife to clean up the bits around the parts that were connected to the sprue. Also use it to clean mold lines (google mold lines 40k; I'm sure you will find a guide). Use super glue to assemble. Sing the alphabet 2-3 times. That's probably longer than needed, but it's what I use. Let go and don't bump. Do it assembly line style so that once the last guy has a piece on, you can do the next piece on the first guy. If you are fancy, drill the holes in the barrels.

Paint:

Depending on what color you want to paint, determine primer color. If you're doing yellow or red, or another brighter color, prime grey or white. If you're doing dark, you can prime black. These days I just prime everything grey. Priming is important. I use Krylon paint. Google for guide on primer. Some people recommend rinsing your models with mild soap before priming. If you think that's a good idea, you might as well rinse the sprue before clipping anything off.

I use cheap brushes. You can find guides for expensive brushes. I use Vallejo paints, but GW and P3 are good too. Each has advantages/disadvantages. Build yourself a cheap wet pallet (google wet pallet, look for Uncle Adam's youtube video). Make sure you thin your paints. Two thin coats > 1 thick coat. When you consider your scheme, look at 2-3 main colors. Too many is distracting. That doesn't stop me from spending way more time on a bolter than I should. Washes are amazing. GW has a contrast paint line I haven't played with, but I've heard good things about.

If you don’t have it buy these they help to keep things neat

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_553186_0&pf_rd_p=f45b78b4-edb2-5d13-ae19-123c5134d801&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-6&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=553186&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=674775CJ3Q6AXDC2KQA5&pf_rd_r=674775CJ3Q6AXDC2KQA5&pf_rd_p=f45b78b4-edb2-5d13-ae19-123c5134d801

https://www.amazon.com/Steren-400-168-Desoldering-Braid/dp/B004NEUII8

I broke spring on mine, plus the rubber slides all over the place. Replaced them with these: Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ORcKEbMXCYDS8

Sorry for the slow response, I wanted to get to my desktop to type this all out.

\>would you say your pedal is totally doable for a beginner?

For sure. The youngest student that built this kit was 7 years old, and she was honestly better at it than some 30 year olds! The biggest advantage you can give yourself if you are unsure are the right tools.

Which brings me to:

\>Do you think this equipment is reliable or should I purchase the components separately?

BYOC rocks, I know those guys well and they'd never steer anyone wrong. They benefit from people getting into the hobby *and sticking with it* so they have an incentive to make sure you have good tools.

But to break it down, here are the components in that kit and my thoughts on them:

• Solder Station +$20
• Looks ok, but you'll outgrow it soon. If you plan to do more than 3-5 kits, I'd get a better one. If you want a low-risk way to dip your toe into the hobby, this will definitely serve you well though. For people looking for tools, I usually recommend the Weller WLC100 iron which looks almost exactly like the iron in the pic (which I suspect is an intentionally identical looking generic version). The WLC100 is around $50, and you'll still outgrow it eventually. I just like it because you can find replacement tips much more easily.
  That all said, $20 is such a low price it seems worth it to at least try it.
• Digital Multimeter +$11.50
• These are a must eventually, but you don't need one to build kits. $11.50 seems like a decent price for this quality
• Wire Strippers +$3.99
• YIKES, these strippers suck. They are going to drive you nuts. You can find better ones on amazon for $7.
• Diagonal Cutters +$2.45
• Double YIKES. The price is cheap as hell, but for $8 you can get professional-grade right angle clippers. These are the exact ones I use
• Bent Nose Pliers +$2.45
• I only use needle nosed pliers, and I probably only need them for 2% of the build. Any small pliers will work though, so feel free to get cheap-as-hell ones here
• Solder Tube +$2.80
• Just a tube of solder. You'll be buying lots of new solder periodically anyway. A brand I love is Kester and I use the 60/40 0.032" leaded solder. I bet the solder in your pic is non-lead (no hate, I think it's just as good)
• Desoldering Braid +$2.80
• Not super useful for your first builds, I hardly ever use it except in rare cases (but in those rare cases, it's a life saver)
• Solder Sucker + $7
• HELL yes, these are going to be super useful for you. The ones in the pic are your generic ones and they'll be just fine. They don't get much more expensive than $16-23 for higher-end ones anyway

To directly answer your question, I'd probably purchase the components separately IF you are positive that you'll stick with it. If you aren't sure, then the above kit is a good way to find out, but plan to throw all that stuff out when you upgrade your tools. Most important stuff will be the iron, wire stripper, diagonal cutters, and solder-sucker (everything else is optional).

\>Can you give advice on safety procedures?

You bet! At these low voltages, there's very little risk of shock or electrical-based danger. Worst case, you'll burn yourself on your iron a couple times. Consider it a rite of passage, lol

\>Is the lead solder dangerous? Should I definitely have a fan that sucks up the solder and wear goggles?

It is if you eat it. Just wash your hands after you are done using it. The fumes that you see rise up when you solder is actually the rosin flux in the core of the solder. That flux just cleans the surfaces and prepares the solder to bind with it chemically. It's non-toxic, so no danger there. I wouldn't go out of my way to huff the fumes, but a fan is more of a "quality of life" improvement to keep the smoke out of your eyes. I use a fume extractor, but that's only because I am soldering 20+ boards a day and the smoke blocks my vision of the board when I'm trying to go fast.
Forget about goggles, you don't need those.

Hope that helps!

​

As for the kit, I'm sorry, it's totally sold out now :(. I ordered more parts and they'll be back in stock late next week.

Stickybacks

Put them behind the legs of the table or underneath (for the steering wheel for example). Keep em close so they share the load of wires and not want to peel off.

Don't have to buy a pack with zipties.

And please, cut the tails off the zipties. Preferably with zipties cutters. Otherwise will leave a sharp little stub sticking out.

Up to you if want to take it step further and use wire loom. Search Amazon for it to get right size and whatever quality you want.

You wouldn't try to drill those out of the straps, instead, use a small, sharp pair of diagonal cutters to snip them out. You can probably pull them off once you cut the ring in two places. Depending on the material the straps are made of, you may want to melt edges of the holes left when you have removed the grommet if it's nylon, before putting the new grommets in the holes. If that's not a viable option, you could off-set a new row between the old ones, and just leave the existing ones in place.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Right angle cutters. Often called flush cutters or electronics snips. Apparently also called a micro cutter

These are the ones I've been using for cell processing. They hold up a little better than others which break the jaws off eventually. - https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=pd_sbs_469_t_0/136-5670269-0859812?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FZPDG1K&pd_rd_r=4b7e7c13-74a8-4ceb-8202-ebe9688a5809&pd_rd_w=FaJUB&pd_rd_wg=ZanAO&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=767QR50FFAV8MY0WCJHF&psc=1&refRID=767QR50FFAV8MY0WCJHF

To clip and lube the stabs, you’ll need to first remove the caps and switches. The tools for that should have been included with the keyboard. Then you can use a small flathead screwdriver to take the stabs out. To clip the stabs, you can use something like these cutters and to lube them, something like this for the thick lube, and krytox 205g0 for lubing other parts of the stabs.

Those are actually just the switch holders that came in the Drop Holy Panda box! But if I didn't have those (or when I decide to invest) I would get the KBDFans lube station. Some tools I recommend that have really helped a ton for lubing are these brushes, and this stem holder. Definitely gonna need a switch opener and if you're doing hot-swappable it'd be a good investment to get some of these. Also, can't forget the switch puller. Maybe some close snips if you're going to be snipping stabs. Lol I think that's everything!

I recently bought some new ones and went with the ones recommended on eater.net. These are the strippers, some pliers for those tight spaces, and also a cutters. The last one isn't really needed since the strippers can cut the wire just fine, but I HIGHLY recommend all three!

Get some good clippers and some needle files. They don't have to be expensive, and you can probably find some at your local hobby store. Something like these and these, though I will say that I have some slightly more expensive Xuron clippers that I really like.

Remove the piece from the sprue (also sometimes known as a "runner" if the hobbyist started with GunPla or similar kits) with the clippers, and then smooth down the point where it was connected with the files.

I'm sorry you had such a lousy encounter. (I'm Canadian, the apology is mandatory) It can be a pain when people chase the meta, and Space Marines in general, and White Scars and Salamanders are currently looking to be in top spot. Which you likely didn't know, and it's just an unfortunate coincidence. Play what you think is cool. Rules come and go, but cool models are always cool models.

Welcome to the hobby, and good luck!

Flush cutting pliers, a hobby knife and superglue are all handy to have. 2000+ grit sandpaper can also be handy for cleaning up seams that don't quite match up.

Depending on how far you want to take your models, model markers, various paints, acetone, etc. can also come in handy. But if you've never built a model before it is best to start off with the basics.

Probably should include this:

Caps

Case

Battery

PCB shrinker/Solder snipper

Cheapest way is probably poorhammer or tabletop simulator.

Poorhammer: Take some cardboard, cut it into circles of around the size of the various bases of the units you want to test out, and write the unit name on them with some sharpie. Then grab some dice and a measuring tape and play around with the basic rules.

Tabletop Simulator: Available on steam, has a pretty decent 40k module. Use that and try it out with a friend. Tends to be okay.

For actual buying in, it depends on how cheap you want to get in. Cheap as price/models, cheap as overall price, cheap as amount of additional things you need? Either way you should check out building your demo list in the Battlescribe application for either 40k 9e or Kill Team. For more medium costs you have some other options.

A lot of people suggest kill team, which is the skirmish sub-game of 40k, every model is its own unit and the games are a lot smaller. On one hand for the model price it is pretty cheap, you usually only need about $30-$60 of models to build a list. On the other you do need to buy the core book which won't carry over to 40k proper and is $35, and the game doesn't have the best support, so many models aren't available for use without one of the expansions (commanders or elites, both $35 a pop), or aren't available full stop, meaning you could buy some models and come to find that none of them are supported. Checking on Battlescribe can help with this, as is just checking at your local store to see if someone can teach you to play. Kill team is more of its own game, though it is good if you just want to dip your toes into a variety of factions and really focus on making the paint jobs unique.

Combat Patrol is the smallest 40k battle size, and is for <500 points. It works okay, and tends to be a cheap way to start learning the rules of 40k. Again, battlescribe is your friend, start with the Patrol Detachment and follow the tool tips or just look up some youtube videos on building an army. The basic rules for 40k are free online. Most Start Collecting boxes tend to be around $80 on 3rd party sellers and give you a decent list for this size of game. Again, pricey but not horrifying. The best deal out there currently is the Chaos Space Marines start collecting, ~$80 on amazon and it comes with ~750 points (depends on how you build them) of new Chaos Space Marine models, which is a fantastic deal. Models are generally transferable between Kill Team and 40k, though many 40k models don't have kill team support so be warned.

For the priciest options that will get you right in you're probably going to be looking at the options which have the full rulebook in them. There are two of these.

The first is the Indomitus box, sold out on GW's website but available 3rd party for around $250. It comes with the full core rulebook and 1000 points of Space Marines, and 1000 points of Necrons, all new models. This is a fantastic deal, but is a very large upfront cost. It will get you settled on models for the foreseeable future however.

The second is the Command Edition Starter Set, which is $165. It comes with the condensed core rulebook (just the rules, no lore section, so like half the book, MSRP on resellers seems to be $40), a decent amount of terrain, and ~340 points of Space Marines and ~340 points of Necrons. This is an alright deal, but honestly I think it is better to just buy the Start Collecting for one faction, make your own terrain (loads of tutorials online, or just use cardboard and waterbottles, terrain is a bit of a rip off from GW IMO), then grab the $65 full core rulebook.

You don't need to paint your minis immediately. However to assemble them you will need a few things. The first is a set of clippers, which are wire cutters without wire stripping parts like this. These are used to remove the plastic parts from the sprue (the plastic frame the plastic was poured into). The second is a scalpel, hobby knife, or exacto knife (basically the same things, I use this one, which is used to smooth out mold lines and . You should also consider a cut mat if you are working on something you don't want to damage, you only need a smaller one so around $20 will get you one of those. Lastly you need some super glue to put together some of the older models, though also getting some plastic cement works too (though only with plastic to plastic adhesion).

For painting, which you will want to do eventually, but don't need to do immediately, you need a few things. The first is paint, obviously. Miniature quality acrylic paint is pricey, but is 100% worth the price (less good paint globs up and makes minis look horrible). There are two options here, I would recommend the Vallejo Basic USA colors set first, it has the core range of primary colors and decent silver and gold options. Vallejo also sells more paint per bottle, and I think it is of higher quality. The second option, which actually works well as an add on to the Vallejo set, is the Citadel start painting 40k set, which has quite a few good options and comes with a set of clippers. Both sets cost ~$45, so I would start with the vallejo and pick up the citadel later. You will also need some nuln oil, it costs $8 at GW and is worth it as it is a very good all purpose black wash. Next you want some primer, use this to coat your models before painting, a grey or black primer is probably your best bet to start with. Cheaper ones are probably fine so long as you spray the models from 1-2ft back (look up youtube tutorials). I use Krylon All in One Flat Black (look for Flat or Matte).

You will also need brushes, a wet palette, and a dry palette. For brushes get a nicer set like these for most work, and a cheaper set (which often come with a dry palette, just a hunk of white plastic usually) from your local hobby store to use for dry brushing and metallic paints. A wet palette is a must buy/make, it is basically a sheet of paper over a wet sponge which leeches water up into your paints to prevent them from drying. A proper one is like $11 on amazon and it will save you so much on paint long term. Very easy to use too.

And that should set you up for success. Again, don't worry about getting a fully painted army right off the bat, it is alright to start playing with grey plastic for a while. Youtube tutorials are also your friend, have a question on how something works? Just look it up in youtube and look for answers marked with 9th edition.

All items used

Walmart Wilton Bake It Better 10" x 16" Cooling Grid x2 $4 each

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Wilton-Bake-It-Better-10-x-16-Cooling-Grid/44432740

Hlme depot 1x3 8ft furring board x2 $2 each cut to various sizes from home depot.

Zip ties 4 inch 8 inch and 11 inch were used. https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-UV-Resist-Zip-Tie-Set-Black-650-Pack-FT-BLK-DIY-650/307799396

2ft x 4ft white pegboard $10 https://www.homedepot.com/p/48-in-H-x-24-in-W-White-Pegboard-109099/202093803

Amazon APC Surge Protector Power Strip, PE76, 1440 Joule, Flat Plug, 7 Outlet Strip $12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7SPNM1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6oqmFbC5JKVYV

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub Tower with 5V/4A Power Adapter $20 (already owned before project ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4pqmFbRK7VXRV

Hakko Chp-170 $8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ftqmFbM0HCM86

HooToo USB C Hub, 7-in-1 Adapter $30( already owned before project ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HRHT17D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0uqmFbF97S860

Takes a bit of research online but I wouldn't skip these:

• https://bit-tech.net/guides/modding/cable-sleeving-an-introduction-to-the-tools-and-materials/1/
• https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT7p3y4df3uwYYZI7bcdJAA
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-xk86Iebco

Here's what I have in my toolbox:

• MDPC-X CTX3 Crimp Tool
• Pin Removers
• Straight cutter
• Wire stripper
• Lighter. I like the long kitchen variety.

Materials

• MDPC-X Sleeve - Classic Small
• Mainframe Custom Wire - 16AWG/ 18AWG
• Heatshrink - small. I prefer black vs transparent. They are throwaways due to heatshrinkless style anyways.
• Mini-fit jr female terminal
• Mini-fit jr male terminal
• Connectors (you'll need to look at your PSU cable set and determine which ones to buy. It's easy to mistake needing EPS for both ends of the CPU power cable for some PSU. Seasonic uses PCIE keyed connectors on the PSU end regardless for CPU or GPU.)

Not a good idea to go cheap on the crimp tool. I've used that CTX3 for many cable sets and it never failed me once. Mainframe Custom also has a really great crimp tool. If one day my CTX3 goes missing, I may try that.

Proof (coz someone just asked me if I really do have hard tubing in my rig):

https://imgur.com/gallery/HyLYknj

https://imgur.com/gallery/jp8uF0M

I've had both, the upgrade to a TS100 is more than worth it. Based on stuff I actually use to build keyboards, I'd say this is the quality starter kit to build a first board and learn to solder:

TS100 with power supply and B2 tip ($75): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THWRGVW

Aoyue tip cleaner and iron stand ($9): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C789EU

Kester 44 solder wire pocket pack ($12.50): https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AVLM4SO/

Solder sucker / desoldering wick / flush cutters ($12.50): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQZJ5L6/

Kester 83-1000-0951 No-Clean flux pen ($7): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X4KOWS

That gets you started for under $120.

&#x200B;

Nice-to-haves if you want to get into the hobby more seriously. These aren't necessary, but they're either good for safety, or are quality tool upgrades to make life easier for things you use a bunch. For example the Engineer solder sucker is a life saver if you need to desolder whole boards, but don't want to spend $250 on a Hakko desoldering gun. I'd recommend the smoke absorber as the first purchase off this list--safety first.

TS100 case ($13): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQLY5JP

Weller WSA350 bench top smoke absorber ($60): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM74SK

Kester 24-6337-8800 No-Clean 0.031" solder ($27): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU

CHP flush cutter ($9): https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker ($32): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4

Gallery here:

https://imgur.com/a/YiJhKTc

Stuff used:

• Drill https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TRGW3W7/
• Side cutters https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
• Files https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011565LG/
• Joystick on red is Vita 2000. This is a big improvement IMO.
• Electrical tape on the back of the LCD on the ribbon side helps to control backlight. One strip. Flush with the top, bottom and side.
• USBc female w/pinout (more later), Hot glue and 26 gauge wire
• GPC dpad membrane and GBP dpad (more later)
• Rit synthetic graphite dye
• All Tamiya paints: Red Transparent (ps-37), Pearl White (PS-57), Gunmetal (PS-23)

Tamiya masking tape. All polycarbonate paint is sprayed inside with masking tape outside. Mask off the area under the lens as well as possible to keep the possibility of flaking off and causing specs between the lens and screen. Also the screen is a tight fit so every little bit helps.

Note on the grey I scratched off some paint to see the LED indicators. On the red I masked this area off so it is a little cleaner. You don't really need to do either because you can see the LEDs through the seam in the case.

USBc mod:

Any usb board will work. All you need is power out and they'll all have that. Mine look like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZUA5I84/ V goes to to DC IN pad on board. G to P1 pin on the big header. I do suggest one where the barrel can be flush with the exterior of the shell. You want the barrel to protrude from the pinout board.

On my first one (the white/gunmetal one) I didn't like how tight the USBc was to the barrel jack. On the red one I cut the A10 and A11 side off with side cutters and tested that the pinouts for V and G were fine. That gave me enough space to move the barrel slightly toward the big USB and away from the charging barrel. Fit by partially assembling with the case still clear and put the motherboard in. Mark the case exterior with a sharpie. Manual drill with a small bit then slightly larger bit. Flush cutters between the holes. File out from there to fit USB.

I've used up to a 30w Anker charger with no problem.

Red special instructions:

Red one uses GBC start select buttons (x3)

Red has a GBC dpad membrane with a GBP dpad on top of it. I tried the GBP buttons with both GBC and stock membranes for ABXY but did not find either combination responsive. I kept the dpad because the rounded edges are a bit more comfortable.

Red one was dyed to that black level by 3oz rit synthetic graphite + enough water to cover it in a vacuum freezer bag and then sous vide at 170F-ish for 45 minutes. Then i did three coats of the red transparent paint (PS-37).

Black buttons were pure rit synthetic graphite (\~4oz) + a splash of acetone in the same sous vide bath

• Alcohol for cleaning
• Menda Bottle for super easy dispensing of the alcohol
• Kim wipes for cleaning
• set of hobby knives (x-acto to be precise)
• nozzle cleaning needles (these are just acupuncture needles really)
• 3d print removal spatulas. I love these, but I only tried three sets before settling happily on them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/your-account/order-history/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search?opt=ab&search=tool
• tiny pliers (I use these 99% of the time to clean off junk and support): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N73BU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• angled needle nose small pliers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPR2LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• flush cutters for trimming: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Pi 4 Running OctoPrint (via OctoPi image) with a Pi Camera v2 and a HyperPixel 4.0 TFT Touch Display and a Pi Jack bucker converter from Omzlo https://www.tindie.com/products/omzlo/pi-jack-power-your-raspberry-pi-from-6v-to-28v/ (need to add some spacers to use this plus the display because the standoffs won't quite reach with the pi jack sandwiched in there, and any printed mount will need some adjustment to take into account the increased thickness). Suggest reading through these comments where me and another guy figured out how to get the webcam to show full 30fps rather than the shitty 5fps that comes with the webcam feature in OctoPrint: https://community.octoprint.org/t/using-ffmpeg-for-webcam-streaming-and-timelapse-support/5321/31
• Full LED lighting (I was spoiled by the lighting in an Ultimaker 2), get the MMU2 variant: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3267-led-light-bar-prusa-i3-mk2mk3
• if you try PETG definitely get the powder coated board as it's well worth the quality of life improvement. Also try Prusa's very own Prusament PETG, it's incredible quality (virtually no stringing and very consistent) and well worth the price in my limited experience.
• I bought a small plastic bin that I place next to my printer for dumping supports and junk material. Makes my work flow so much easier. Also a small tool tray for holding my various tools
• Hobby magnetic screwdriver set with hex bits, will make assembly and maintenance tons easier. I bought this one (as all my others were larger sized automotive tools) and it's worked out well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YP5XH3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Butane heat gun. Heat guns are useful for quickly clearing off strings when they happen, but I find it annoying to have to deal with cords and wait for them to heat up. This heats up super fast and does a great job. For me it is great for electrical wiring since I can do heat shrink tubing again without cords and super quickly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YP5XH3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• Hand drill with small drill bits. I use this for clearing screw holes in my models (I do a lot of electronics cases) where supports get stuck inside. I'm not convinced it's the best solution, but so far it's done alright, not great but gets the job done: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MM4J26Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
• sandpaper. Sometimes it's useful for cleaning up models.
• Avocado oil. I use this so that I can print PETG on the smooth sheet sometimes when I want a smooth surface rather than textured. Takes some practicing to know just how much is enough and not too much.
• Silicone cover for the nozzle. Must have to help keep things clean and stay that way.
• Possible improved fan guide. In my experience the Mk3s does a poor job cooling on the back side which hurts overhangs a lot only on that one side, and I think a better guide to send more air back there is needed. I haven't yet experimented with people's designs or worked on my own though.

That's it for my brain dump, can't think of anything else right now.

Here's a quick list of the stuff I started with.

[ ] Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_uI6rEb75V6VR7 [ ] Weller ST7 ST Series Conical Solder Tip Hobbyist for WP25, WP30 and WP35 Irons, 0.031" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BSP4K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_PJ6rEbBK1DH1X [ ] MG Chemicals 8341 No Clean Flux Paste, 10 milliliters Pneumatic Dispenser (Complete with Plunger & Dispensing Tip) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CK6rEbHXR8QFF [ ] Hakko CHP 3-SA Stainless Steel Non-Magnetic Precision Tweezers with Very Fine Point Tips for Microelectronics Applications, 4-3/4" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPEWI6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_7K6rEb56D2Q56 [ ] Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_IL6rEb2HW64XD [ ] Hakko CHP PN-2007 Long-Nose Pliers, Flat Nose, Flat Outside Edge, Serrated Jaws, 32mm Jaw Length, 3mm Nose Width, 3mm Thick Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPHEW2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_8L6rEb0VQWW1K [ ] DMM https://www.harborfreight.com/11-function-digital-multimeter-with-audible-continuity-61593.html [ ] WYCTIN 60-40 Tin Lead Rosin Core Solder Wire for Electrical Soldering and DIY 0.0236 inches(0.6mm) 0.11lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G1J3W6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_XN6rEbWM3XDYV [ ] Tabiger Solder Wick & Desoldering Pump, Solder Sucker & Desoldering Wick, 2pcs Solder Braid (2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length)- Desoldering Vacuum Pump Solder Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777LMVTT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3O6rEbBXVAYW6 [ ] Isopropyl Alcohol [ ] Toothbrush [ ] Hyper Tough TS99818A 44-Piece Precision Screwdriver Set with Case http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-TS99818A-44-Piece-Precision-Screwdriver-Set-with-Case/17190613 [ ] Hakko 599B-02 Wire-type soldering iron tip cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_tR6rEb2CP11WW

It really all depends on what you want to repair. A lot of this stuff I've supplemented/replaced depending on my needs, but they worked well when I started. Keep in mind you might have to invest in some more bits (gamebit, and those weird intellivision ones come to mind) or bigger screwdrivers. Hope this helps, let me know if there's anything specific you're looking to do though.

My first project! The May Pad from Keyhive. Switches are Gateron Yellows lubed with Krytox 205g0, keycaps are OSA Sleeves.

I think a lot of newcomers have entered the hobby recently (myself included), so I thought it might be interesting to provide a breakdown of entry level costs for a complete beginner with no prior experience or supplies. I had basically nothing applicable to this hobby starting out, in terms of equipment or skills. I ordered the MayPad as an introductory product to get a little bit of experience and see what I was getting myself into before taking the big plunge and I’m really glad I did. It was a lot of fun and gave me chance to do a lot of things for the first time that I’m really glad I won’t do for the first time on an expensive group buy – soldering (and desoldering), using QMK and flashing a controller, lubing and placing switches and stabs, and a little bit of troubleshooting along the way. I’ve since hopped on a group buy for my first board (Protozoa’s P.02 Discipline 65% kit – GB open until August 12th/whenever the prototype makes it to their build streamer).

Here’s what I spent to get from zero to my little MayPad (taxes and shipping NOT included):

Component | Price ---------|----- Soldering iron| $69.98 Solder wire| $26.30 Solder sucker| $29.97 Solder wick| $6.88 Paintbrushes | $4.99 Fine point tweezers| $6.39 Solder tip cleaner| $9.57 Flush cutters| $8.47 Small fan| $10.99 Flux pen| $10.04 Keycap puller| $5 Switch opener| $8 Lube (Krytox 205g0, 5 mL)| $10 Switch films| $8 (2 packs of 100) Stabilizers| $31.25 for essentially a fullsize kit, Dan can hook you up if you ask Switches (Gateron Yellows)| $4.80/20 switches Maypad | $18 Keycap set (OSA Sleeves)| $85 TOTAL| $353.63

With shipping and taxes where applicable, the real total was just under $400 (about $300 for me to get the supplies to get started with mechanical keyboards and the other $100 for my build). As you can see my biggest single expense was the keycap set. I thought about getting a cheaper set from Amazon or similar, but in the end I thought for the price OSA Sleeves was a very attractive and comprehensive set with a lot of mods and whatnot, and I was gonna need something for my group buy board while I wait for keycaps that are still in the IC phase. I’m sure I could have done it cheaper, but this is what worked for me. Thanks for looking, hope it helps somebody else.