Glass Printer Bed 235x235x3.8mm Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Platforms for Ender 5/Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro

Mine is stupid thick at 4mm. Got it off amazon.

Glass Printer Bed 235x235x4.0mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sure, it is glass: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07JKGNB6W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W is what I have. Between this and my purple Elmers glue stick I have no issue with plate adhesion. For my PETG prints, I keep the bed at 40C, and it works perfectly every time. Note: I also clean the bed with a razor blade between prints.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dSJ0Eb5CYE6XT

> It’s like a $3 investment if you buy from Lowe’s or Home Depot.

Dont you need borosilicate glass or did Lowes have that. All I have here is Menards and they just have regular glass. Been looking at this one on amazon. Good reviews and its just cut to fit glass with no coatings like the Creality brand does. I think I will switch to glass because I have already printed all the upgrades and upgraded to a metal extruder, better bed springs and bowden tube. The skr mini e3 v2.0 board comes today (It sits behind me in my home office so I would like it a bit quieter.

As is I have made great prints already. Never had anything come unstuck from the bed or issues with jittering or gaps in the prints. Really pays off to read and watch you tube videos before you jump into 3d printing. I have researching it for over 6 months before I bought one finally. Next up is learning to use 3d model software other than just for making gcode files from existing models.

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=ender+3+pro+glass+bed&qid=1578572304&sprefix=ender+3&sr=8-11

It's been working great so far. I use a little hairspray to help with adhesion and it's amazing.

I had the same problem. Either I wasn't able to get a successful first layer or one corner of the part would start to warp and become unstuck from the bed. After switching to a borosilicate glass platform, I no longer had adhesion issues. I purchased this one from Amazon and it works very well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_H5FXFb4389N2D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

These are the steps I always follow:

1. Level the bed by placing a post-it note under the extruder nozzle on each corner. Gradually adjust each leveling knob as you drag the post-it until you feel a slight resistance.

2. Apply a liberal amount of Elmer's purple glue stick to the print area on the glass bed.

3. When you are setting up your print in your slicing software, make sure to print a brim. This will put down a layer of fillement outlining the print area. If the brim is sticking well then you know you will have a successful first layer. If not, stop the print and re-level your bed.

4. If you have difficulty removing the completed print, run warm water over it or apply a warm washcloth for a few hours. The warm water will dissolve the glue and your prints should come right off. Just make sure it isn't too hot or it will warp your parts. You can also use dental floss if the part will still not release. I tried using a spatula but found that they are too thick to get under the part.

5. Since the glue is water soluble, clean up is very easy. Just run warm water over the glass and it rinses right off.

The is my second glass bed, the first was similar to (if not the same thing without creality branding) the creality one and I like this one so much more. Are amazon links allowed here? (No affiliation)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Pu-gEbVN5RH86

I got this one on Amazon. There's currently a coupon right below the price to save $2. I've had no issues with it. Make sure to use some glue stick to help with adhesion. The prints come right off after the bed cools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_QopQFbXKGR959

I'm still waiting for delivery. The printer isn't quiet but it's not distracting, I like the mech noises.

I gave in to the glass bed after giving up on a warped bed. I didn't like the idea of doing hairspray/glue so the first time I just cleaned it with IPA and it has perfect adhesion. I've done about 10+ small prints so far and they look amazing with out any thing added to the glass. Pretty much mirror finish on the bottom. I bought this one.

I've had my Ender 3 Pro for a few weeks now and I had issues similar to that, but much worse actually. The best I could get it would be the middle was perfect, the right hand side was too high and would almost scrape the extruder along it and the bottom was too low and I had adhesion issues.

I bought this glass bed, a little more than just getting glass from your local hardware store, but I was a bit concerned about temperature cycling over time, and I've seen some conflicting info when searching around about it, I thought the extra $10 was worth knowing I wouldn't have it crack/shatter at some point.

After installing that, and moving up the Z-stop a bit to compensate, it was like having an entirely new printer. It takes some effort to get it perfectly level, but once it's there it's rock solid across the entire bed, and I get pretty much perfect adhesion. I've made several prints, one was a day and a half long, and I haven't had to adjust it once.

Also, I don't use glue or tape or anything else for PLA, just clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and go. In fact, I tried the glue stick method the first print and it took me quite a while to get the print off of it, so I stopped and never looked back.

I also upgraded the bed springs at the same time, but I'm not sure what impact that had...it was more of a cheap upgrade that couldn't hurt and since I would have to start over leveling it anyway...

This is what I'm using right now.

I've bought one or these for each of my printers. It's like pyrex glass. I like knowing I can drop it and it wont immediately shatter. I know it can but it feels unlikely.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_LNrNEbZKEA1NE

Glass plate and better springs. Don't forget to raise the Z axis up a bit for clearance.

This is what I got. You could just go to the hardware store or glass supplier and have them cut it, just make sure it is borosilicate glass between 4-8mm... though 4mm is way easier to deal with. I still had to move my Z end-stop to fit it in there though.

Hi, yes, that's a glass bed. It's $16 bucks but has done the trick. u/Lydiafae seems to have a great budget hack which I would have done if I had thought of it. :)

Glass Bed

No, that has a coating on the surface, which might be ok, but look what you did to your last surface. Get a clear borosilicate glass plate. Get some blue painters tape too. and a Gluestick.

Glass bed+painters tape+ gluestick+leveled bed = works every time

https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ender+3+glass+bed&qid=1581189939&s=industrial&sr=1-6

I bought mine from Amazon Glass bed

This is what I bought. I use binder clips to hold it in place and haven't had any problems for several months. And it's cheap enough that if I need to replace, I can.

Glass Printer Bed 235x235x4.0mm Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Platforms for Ender 5/Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_rLOuEb916BPTZ

this one was a perfect fit for my ended 5 so I would imagine the same for an ended 3

I have an Ender 5. I have gotten much better results with adhesion since switching to a glass bed. This is the one I got. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4lt7Eb8F1TAE0

Before I start printing, I dilute some Elmer's glue and spread it across the bed with a foam paint brush. I let it dry fully before printing of course.

I did just buy a IKEA "Lots" 12-in x 12-in mirror. They come in a 4 pack for $10. I'm told that mirrors are flatter than standard glass. I'll have to cut it with a glass cutter first.

I've gotten tired of the stock mat! I had one of the following delivered today!

Glass Printer Bed 235x235x4.0mm Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Platforms for Ender 5/Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_BLeCEbJ404CE2

That looks really rough like it's getting too much adhesion, I would try a piece of glass cost ya 15 bucks, https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+bed&qid=1599706183&sr=8-9

I personally much prefer tempered glass bed ($12 on Amazon), which much improves print quality. Also, make sure you level your bed (I personally found this guide to be most useful for stock printer).

I had some adhesion issues when I started printing, until some filament I bought came with a glue stick. I use this. The other thing I had issues with was a low spot on my magnetic bed's center. I had to avoid printing in the low spot or my print would not adhere. Switching to a glass bed with glue has made things so much easier. My biggest problem now is getting my prints off of the glass because they are stuck so well. I've been having success putting the whole bed in the refrigerator or freezer to cool off for a while, and the prints come off much easier.

so did the glass works better on the other side with glue? I have the creality one and a couple different glass. None stick even with soap water, glue or hairspray. Only tape works. Glass Printer Bed 235x235x4.0mm Borosilicate Glass 3D Printer Glass Print Platforms for Ender 5/Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rDurFbRM44VHZ 2 Pack 3D Printer Glass Print Bed for Ender 3-235 x 235 x 4mm - 8 Printer Bed Clips Included - Ender-3, Ender-3 Pro, Ender-3X, Ender-5, CR-20, CR-20 Pro Tempered Glass Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X3YGNFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lEurFbZKQ5PA2

I have the same issue, unfortunately. I haven't tried the E3 glass bed from Creality but when I was reading up on it, there were some complaints of the special coating wearing off very quickly, and at the time, it was going for around $35 on Amazon. It looks like the cost has gone down some to $23. Also, you could just go with a generic borosilicate glass bed for $17 which would do fine with some binder clips and would save a few bucks.

Both are currently in stock and shipping within a few days on Amazon. Just make sure you read the reviews about letting it cool completely before trying to remove the part and being sure not to clean the Creality bed with the special coating with any liquid chemicals.

Generic Borosilicate Glass Bed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_ISILEbRC6JY51

Creality Glass Bed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSM8DK9/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_eZILEbEP2V5E5

Yes, both are this glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ender+3+glass&link_code=qs&qid=1588170735&sr=8-5

I picked up a Borosilicate Glass bed from Amazon for about $20 when I bought the printer, and adhesion gets a real boost. I had been going back and forth with the magnetic build plate, and ended up scraping the magnetic plate a bit too much when I aborted a print that only made a very thin layer. I could probably have recovered, but I have to say, scraping the glass plate is much easier, and with a little bit of hairspray on it, I haven't had any adhesion problems.

I already had a Raspberry PI laying around, but I have to say, Octoprint is just awesome. It saves you from running back and forth with the SD card, but more so you can heat up the tip and extrude filament before a change. I've also gotten a big kick out of the timelapse videos, after adding a $20 camera. As others have mentioned, you can run Pi hole on it, or any number of other things, but I think I'm just going to dedicate this one to the printer. My printer is in the basement, so it's pretty handy to just take a peek at the webcam feed or the progress on Octoprint from my phone vs going downstairs to see how it's doing.

The springs on my bed are a bit flimsy, so I ordered some replacements that I've seen recommended.

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These are just my two bits of course, but I don't see any reason to replace the mainboard or firmware.

I don't know about the glass on top of the magnetic base. But I can tell you that the sooner you go to glass, the easier life will be. After about a year of the stock base on an Ender 3, I put a sheet of PEI on top of glass for my bed. You have to reset the Z-stop. But once you do that, Zero problems - ZERO. Perfect prints. Repeatedly.

Glass:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_tTzXFb5S2QEPK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

PEI:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GSJSDWR/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_HTzXFb9WQRHF2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The four upgrades I did that I think helped immeasurably get better adhesion, consistency, and prints were: a Micro swiss hotend, upgraded bed springs, silent board, and a glass bed.

This are US links, but just to give you and idea of what they are. Uh, I guess I'll also echo what they said in the Ender 3 subreddit. Learn your printer. Get good prints with PLA on your stock Ender 3 and then start from there.

i bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_8EdDEbCEKNZE1

and couldn't print a damn thing.

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i bought this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_kIdDEbAP9YP9N

and everything has been been perfect

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i have no idea what changed.

I did, and it works great! I've had very little adhesion issues with my prints and leveling is so much easier, especially when you replace the springs with the high tension ones.

The only issue I've had is the binder clips which most people recommend to hold the glass bed on take up a little space and limit the size of your prints (you can't go to the edge anymore). But other than that, I've loved having a glass bed on my Ender 3 Pro

This is the glass I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKGNB6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the springs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GXC1G2B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVL1SYF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is the link. (It takes a bit to ship)

If you're looking for a compatible glass bed, to put the PEI sticker on I found that this one is great (for Ender 3 Series and Ender 5) : but any borosilicate bed will do.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Glass-Print-Borosilicate-Printer-235x235x3-7mm/dp/B07JKGNB6W/ref=sr_1_1?

The PEI is great, but has to be cut-to-length IMPORTANT: When cutting the PEI sticker it is better to have the edges of the sticker stick off of the glass bed than it being too small for the bed after being cut. Since the sheet comes in 300 by 300 mm. I recommend putting the adhesive PEI on a glass plate and not the actual heated bed.

The Filament Guide I have, Tool Holder (Note, the spatula holder is kind of useless as is) extruder arm, Mainboard, and Glass Bed. Sorry, they're for the US Amazon, but they'll give you an idea what to look for. The printer is so open source that there are plenty of good aftermarket alternatives. Just search up the hotend and octopi, you'll find tons of info. You will need a raspberry pi, micro sd card, mini USB to type A cord, and power supply.

Alright, so we all know we're never "done" with upgrading, but I'm finally at a point where I have no other upgrades on my immediate radar. I've copied links to everything I've purchased and printed below. A couple notes about the mods:

• The direct drive kit is linear rail compatible, and the printermods site has a list of printable adapters. However, the adapter makes it so the gantry collides with the left side of the frame before anything hits the x-axis endstop, so I had to glue on a little piece of plastic to hit the endstop.
• The linear rail takes off about 10mm in the y-axis (I use 230x220 for the bed size now).
• I'm using linear advance with K = 0.10. Firmware is linked below.

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Purchased Upgrades

• Glass Bed
• Gulfcoast Robotics Bed Springs
• BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V1.2
• Gulfcoast Robotics All Metal Hotend
• BLTouch
• Aluminum MK8 Extruder Drive Feed
• Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing and Cutter
• 608 ZZ Skateboard Bearings (for the filament holder/roller mod)
• PrinterMods Direct Drive
• Linear Rail
• And of course, Glue Sticks (gotta get that bed adhesion!)

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Printed Upgrades

I've been all about 3D Solutech filament since the start. These mods are all printed in Purple and Silver Metal. All of the mods can be found in my thingiverse collection. Most are others' mods, but I added/remixed a couple of my own.

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Here's a link to my config files and compiled firmware: link

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I'm a little proud of this guy, so feel free to ask me questions about my setup.