General Hydroponics pH Control Kit for a Balanced Nutrient Solution

General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH Control Kit for A Balanced Nutrient Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cVUZEbPF42357

Ok your PH are way high. I’d recommend a ph balancing kit. You want it between 5.5 and 6.5. I got a good one from general hydroponics. this kit it’s about what I paid but you may be able to save a dollar or two by looking around online a bit. I got mine on eBay.

The lights are iffy, but if it's actually pulling 200W from the outlet that should be alright. I'd wager the problems are the soil and lack of pH control, especially if you're having repeat trouble.

For soil, it could be any number of problems. Might be too dense, might be retaining too much water, might not be retaining enough, etc. From the pictures it looks like it's probably too moist, that can lead to all sorts of root problems. If you have the option I would suggest using 50% coco coir and 50% perlite (or 30% perlite and 20% vermiculite if available). I tried using different soil and potting mixes for ages but always had problems until I switched to coco. There's a reason it's so popular, it's pretty much impossible to overwater. Just be aware you'll need some calmag to buffer it, but you'd need that anyway for growing the plant. If coco is not an option, I would suggest at least adding some perlite yourself to help loosen the soil.

Get a pH kit, some people swear by digital ones but I've been doing fine with drops. Having a bad pH is really harmful, it sounds like a minor thing but it controls whether or not the plant can uptake nutrition.

I see a couple comments above on pH. When I first started I had a pH problem and I ordered a digital pH checker which really let me down. Calibrating it and the accuracy of it was off. I ordered the droplet and pH up and down kit and it worked great. I provided you with a link off Amazon if you’re interested. General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

General Hydroponics pH Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rTMfEbXM1H02P

This is what I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_fGv2FbAF1DBZR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Ah ok, makes sense to get 1 good pen...do you think the GH Control Kit that has the strip color measure is sufficient or is the pen absolutely necessary?

Making RO water is costly and wasteful. It only makes sense to use it when there are no other alternatives.

Your tap water at 200ppm and 7.4 pH is fine for growing weed. Make sure to pH properly every time you water. Take care to water to 20% run-off so that the minerals in the tap water do not accumulate in the soil.

There is not an "optimal" total ppm to target. A grower using high ppm water is going to have higher average ppms going into the plant than a growing using low ppm water.

I've never used vinegar to pH my water, but I know that some growers do. You will probably have to use something to raise pH once you start adding nutes. If this is your first grow, I would suggest you use GH pH Up/Down. It's stable and predictable, despite what you may have read.

Good luck!

Coco coir + Canna Coco A & B and a bottle of Cal-mag is a good and relatively cheap starting point. You can use it through the veg cycle and flower cycle. For pH testing, you should get a pH adjustment kit. After you've mixed your nutrients into water, you take a small amount of nutrient water in the plastic vial and use 2 drops of the pH test solution to test it. You want it to come out bright yellow before you feed the plants. If it's not bright yellow, you use very small amounts (a drop at a time) of the included pH Up and pH Down to adjust the nutrient water to the proper pH

I've been using a different nutrient called Megacrop for the last year and a half that I would also recommend. It's a complete nutrient that requires no additions at all, similar to Canna Coco but it's all in one part, and requires no pH adjustment. Unfortunately, the only option they have available right now is a 22.7lb bag for ~$75, which would probably last you a year or more. Also, it stinks pretty bad, so if you do decide to go that route I would highly recommend pouring it into a 5 gallon bucket with a screwtop silicone sealing lid. You'll also need a digital scale to weigh the nutrients.

Okay I'm back! I posted an update since and seem to have no real improvements. I was reading a little bit and found that in organic gardening you don't want to use these ph adjusters for organic grows.

The article I read said they can hurt your microbial growth. This may be part of my issue and I'm too far along now to really fix anything but overall the buds are going strong, getting fat, and I'm confident I'll make it to harvest. One more thing I need to adjust for the next grow.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY

This is a little pricy so shop around. I got this kit for 13 at my local plant nursery

General Hydroponics pH Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9XTcEbEYNCQA9

It's literally a few drops at a time.

rh to 45 is much better than 34. i wouldn’t rely on your homes humidifier/april air though, definitely get a cheap hygrometer from amazon and a humidifier for in the tent. should be 50-55 at this stage. these will last you more than a couple grows.

what nutrients are you using? they should bring your PH down into the 6’s just try to keep your EC around 1.3-1.5

I got this General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH Control Kit for A Balanced Nutrient Solution . I am afraid of the PH pen because they all seem to be crap unless I get one of the expensive blue pens.

I use general hydroponics ph kit it helps maintain the ph levels and also I set up a filter where I make water and store it. The ph level stays steady between 5.3-5.8.

Well, that video was interesting. I guess they were trying to set you up with an easy and somewhat forgiving method.

If it were me I think I'd try getting some airflow on them and getting that wick situation squared away. Maybe give them some temporary support as well to hold them up. For giggles, I'd probably make sure light wasn't getting to my nutrient solution/wick. Just to fend off algae problems. Wrap it with something like aluminum foil, duct tape, etc.

If you were going to run this longer then I'd get a simple pH kit like this (not affiliated). You might be able to find something similar, and cheaper, in an aquarium supply store near you. Slap hydroponics on a product and it suddenly costs more for some odd reason.

I prefer https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BNKWZY/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And I'll tell you why.......It never needs to be calibrated. You'll get an accurate reading 100 pct of the time.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=sr_1_3

Includes the test solution, pH up and pH down so you can adjust as needed.

here ya go!

Exactly what's happening to your plants.... and it will get worse the longer you water without checking the pH. Trust me, I COMPLETELY understand wanting to keep it as simple as possible on your first grow. My first grow, I operated the same way! But it would really reallllly help you with your grow if you got a cheap pH testing kit like this one here.

Here’s what I use. If you have a local hydro store check with them first, might have it cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY Great for testing water and water+nutrients. A little harder using it for soil. Picked up my clone last year and she’s around 14’ now.

This is what I bought initially. Now I buy it by the gallon and refill these little bottles.

General Hydroponics pH Control Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1QEkEbGFBJR68

I know these guys like to be acidic, so I bought this

General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I keep them away from direct light and it seems to have slowed the browning and dying stems ... hope it works for you!!!

General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH Control Kit for A Balanced Nutrient Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dJmDEbT846XX4

This is what I use

Id recommend picking up one of these kits. For 20 bucks it has enough ph up and down to last you for years and it comes with ph testing drops so you can get a good idea of where you're at.

General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH Control Kit For A Balanced Nutrient Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_e461EbYHECME2

It’s made by general hydroponics it could be used for a pool as could your fancy meter but the drops don’t need calibration https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY

Simplest cheapest reliable way is this stuff https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY

Next time it's dry, fully water and catch some of the runoff in the little vial (after it's fully soaked through not the first bit of runoff that won't be fully mixed in) and add a few drops of pH indicator.

You're not gonna get extreme accuracy with it, but you'll get a good idea of whether it's in the right range or not, and if pH up or down needs to be added

You'll need this

This is the pH kit I use:

General Hydroponics HGC722080 pH Control Kit for a Balanced Nutrient Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_fUcSFbSX7KCZS

After you make up your nutrient mixture, test the pH level with the kit. It comes with a chart that tells you where you want the pH level. Then use the up or down as needed to get your pH level to the desired level.

I don't have that product, but usually any nutrient will lower your ph down pretty low. Invest in this if you already haven't...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B000BNKWZY&pd_rd_w=tcB1l&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=bYHgn&pf_rd_r=FES7TMQWA5JFBZCJ32GY&pd_rd_r=5befece0-7854-416a-8254-d5b7c36d8049&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVE5XMVI0TzBBQjk1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDIyMjE1TEQ2Wk5YUzY1MUtLJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwOTQzMjkxRzdEM0FCVlZFOEQwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I’m not familiar with those. I use this combo.

You’ll also need something to adjust PH. I use this.

This is a ph pen and tds meter. Both come in handy.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKMH86J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_pGp5FbJK13EYX

Also is a ph up and down kit below.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IGp5FbQ2QKA36?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You've got to check the pH and adjust accordingly. Without proper pH, plants can't absorb nutrients. MaxiGrow is acidic and you're using quite a bit of it, so your water is almost certainly too acidic for the plants to grow.

You can get away with the old-school color method of pH if you can't afford a decent pH meter yet. I started with GH all-in-one kit:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ph+up+down&qid=1598207721&sr=8-5

I use the PH test kit in the link below. I test the PH of the runoff water. I test it for just water, and when I water with liquid nutrients. When I just water the plants the PH is in range, but when I add the liquid nutrients to it, I need to boost the PH. That's what works for me in the setup I have for my plants. Do some reading, but generally you want the PH in your soil to be between 6.0 and 7.0. Also, look into topping/fimming. I've personally had good results using the FIM (Fuck I Missed) method.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi,

This is what I use with distilled water. Because if coronavirus if I don't have distilled water I just use regular bottled water.

nutrient solutions

ph up and down (for the water and nutrient solution mixture)

🙂

I'm experimenting with that right now, actually and it's going very well. :)

Principles should be the same as hydroponics so I'm using hydroponic-specific nutrient and adding small dosages to my water propagated pothos vase and topping with distilled water as it runs low. Hydroponic-specific nutrient is great since it also includes the other micro-nutrients (outside of NPK).

In my research, I've found the General Hydroponics system to be widely used. It's a system that includes the correct ratios for the different stages your plant is in (cutting/seed vs. leafy growth vs. flowering). The manufacturer suggests a 1:1:1 of all of them if you're unsure. I'm currently doing 1/16 tsp per gallon of each for my cutting and steadily increasing it. My pothos is doing really well and so are my newer cuttings.

Just remember to use distilled water for your nutrient mix since the trace chlorine and fluoride in tap/filter water is not good for plants. And also balance your pH to somewhere between 5.5 to 6.5 for houseplants. Still-water exposed to the air (namely carbon dioxide) can naturally get acidic over time too -- so just be aware of that. General Hydroponics also sells a pH kit for adjusting your water which works great.

Nutrient System: (this stuff is gonna to last forever, they sell by the quart) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_yEzwEbFFAM1W6

pH kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_dQzwEb9X81QS0

Sorry to be a pain in the ass, but is this the products I would need along with the Apera ph20?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0071AR9XI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_u05zFbD9K2K9C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_X25zFbHJTNGGR

I've already spent a lit of money, but i'm almost done and I just want to confirm this before I purchase.

I started my plant collection & conversion to hydroponics while I was living in a small apartment, so I understand the struggle 110%.

There's not a specific guide as to which plants you should move to hydroponics, and if you look up the subject on YouTube everyone does the process a little differently. I started with a peperomia russo that was suffering from root rot so I could make sure (1) the plant was aerating properly {the leca wicks & retains moisture, while the space between the leca provides air to the roots so they can breathe} and (2) I could easily pull the plant out of the leca once a week to check root recovery/growth & then put it back.

After that plant started thriving, I moved my moisture loving plants to hydroponics. After those successfully made the conversion, I moved to the rest of my collection. As of today I have pothos, philodendron, monsteras, peperomias, hoyas, and a few others, including some succulents and "string of" plants. The ones I found are easiest to convert to hydroponics and plans that are small, in 2-4 inch pots. I've converted my 6 & 8 inch plants and although some of them have survived, they had a month or longer recovery time (dropping leaves, shedding roots) before they started putting out new growth. One thing to keep in mind is that when you put plants from soil to hydroponics, they have to grow an entire new root system that's adapted to water. With smaller plants, there's less foliage to support and a smaller root system to replace. The easiest are cuttings of plants. I root them in water until the roots are about an inch long and then pot them up in leca.

In regards to nutrients, since we're removing the soil from the equation, we need to add nutrients to the water. I use the General Hydroponics Flora Series and the General Hydroponics pH Control Kit mixed in a gallon of brita filtered water (sometimes I'll buy distilled, or catch rain water, but I try not to use plain tap because my city has really bad hard water).

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=sr_1_36?keywords=ph+kit&qid=1583067489&sr=8-36

I'm feeding it General Hydroponics 3-part flora series which is the gold standard liquid hydroponic nutrient line that has been around forever. I'm feeding it at the "general purpose/mild veg" strength which is 1-1-1 tsp/gallon of the grow, micro & bloom nutrients. Here's a picture of the label that shows the basic feed chart: https://i.imgur.com/usRsqWU.png

That's what I feed almost all of my plants I just vary how frequently depending on the plant. Monsteras and most houseplants aren't extremely heavy feeders so they get fed about once every 3rd or 4th watering with plain water in between. That works out to about once every other week.

Fruiting plants and flowering plants get the same general purpose ratio when they are young but a different ratio depending on where they are in their lifecycle ending up at 1-2-3 tsp/gal grow-micro-bloom.

I also supplement that with ArmorSi which is a silica supplement. I read a few research papers on the role silica plays in heat and stress resistance as well as stem and leaf strength and was convinced (i can dig em up if anyone is interested). But basically in regular soil you usually don't need to supplement it because it is typically present but in soilless mixes like peat or coco potting soil it isn't. It makes a noticeable difference in stress resistance and stem/leaf strength. You can literally see the plants hold themselves more upright even when bearing fruit and they tolerate hotter temps.

General hydroponics 3 part flora series: https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Flora-Bloom-Fertilizer/dp/B017H73708

Quarts are a pretty good size for most people but its a good bit cheaper if you buy them buy the gallon. 496ml in a quart, 5ml in a teaspoon so thats 189.2 quarts or 47.3 gallons at the 1-1-1 tsp general strength ratio.

You also will need pH up, pH down and a pH meter. Do not bother with the liquid pH tester, its way too much of a pain in the ass and you can get a nice meter you can calibrate for ~$30. This kit comes with an 8oz bottle of each + a liquid tester for $22. https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY

You can also get a 2 pack of the quart ones for $30 which is a lot better deal. https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Quart-Adjuster-Buffer/dp/B07QNCBL7S

This is a good pH meter for $30: https://www.amazon.com/Dr-meter-PH100-V-Resolution-Accuracy-Measurement/dp/B00ST3VTQ4
This is the newer version of that but it's out of stock at the moment: https://www.amazon.com/Dr-meter-Upgraded-Resolution-Two-Color-Measurement/dp/B082DZBJFB

I've had both since I broke the bulb on the old one and there isn't really any difference besides the screen lights up on the new one. You don't really need an EC meter for non-recirculating applications. They can be useful still for debugging but I never use mine.

I can talk about this stuff for hours lol, i'm happy to answer any questions.

Oh also if you want a cheaper option, General Hydroponics Maxi series is awesome too. It's a 2 part line of dry mix fertilizers complete with micro nutes. MaxiGro is for leafy plants and 1/2 tsp per gallon of MaxiGrow is a decent replacement for the 1-1-1 tsp ratio of the flora series I feed my houseplants.

MaxiBloom is the flowering half of the line and is about perfect for peppers (1 tsp/gal every other watering) or tomatoes (2 tsp/gal every other watering). The only problem with dry fertilizers is they are a pain in the ass to get them to fully dissolve so I prefer liquid nutes.

They go for about $15-20 for a kilogram and a tsp is 7 grams so they'll make 142 gal at 1tsp/gal Pack with MaxiGrow and MaxiBloom: https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-718281-718301-Fertilizer/dp/B01GLV51NC

MaxiGro by itself: https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-MaxiGro-Gardening-2-2-Pound/dp/B00NQANQAC
MaxiBloom by itself: https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-MaxiBloom-Gardening-2-2-Pound/dp/B00NXVZQUW/

1) pH Control Kit - Rainwater usually falls within that pH range if you don't want to invest in that.

2) SuperThrive in a 5.5.-6.5 pH balanced water. Your plant should stay in this for about 2-4 weeks before transitioning to...

3) FloraSeries or Liquid Gold Leaf in 5.5-6.5 pH balanced water. Just refresh the water as it evaporates and refill the bottom third.

You need to buy a pH meter and calibration liquid, because FF nutes come in around 5-5.2pH. Your soil pH will drop and lock out nutrients. You'll need to use pH up to bring the FF pH into the 6.4-6.8 range so that the plants can absorb nutrients. Do not use the test strips . You'll want a pH meter. If you are on a budget, buy two of these and use both to confirm your pH. The cheaper meters aren't the best, but will get the job done. Using two to check your pH will prevent you accidently giving in the wrong pH nutes/liquid. You can buy two cheap models of another brand if you'd like. Some use powder that comes with the meters in order to calibrate them. Either way, buy two.

​

Once you have done this you'll get a rough idea of how much you need to use every water. I use 1/3 the normal amount of FF nutrients about 1 time per week. If I put in 30ml to 3 gallons, I know that using my tap water I need an equal part pH up to hit 6.5-6.9 range. I always check anyways, but it's good to write this down and use the same water source so that increase your pH equipement isn't working, you can still provide nutrients.

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https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-HGC722080-Balanced-Nutrient/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=xbPa27Es0uav3pyGStzM0Q&hsa_cr_id=2959830930701&ref_=sb_s_sparkle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5IASHD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01M5IASHD&pd_rd_w=1BelW&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=ElNqW&pf_rd_r=MGYJ6Q9V3C9AW6T7TKM0&pd_rd_r=442b0828-76fb-47b8-a903-

Well the MasterBlend I use is 4-18-38, and I see that too around that same age. I follow the recipe very carefully, so I think that rules out a nutrient problem. Unless we're both over-feeding or under-feeding the same nutrient...

Curling may be insect damage, disease, herbicides. I'm guessing it's not the latter, as weeds have nowhere to come from...

I rinse my roots and replace the water once in a while just because it looks absolutely disgusting after a month or two, and I can't imagine anything thriving in it.

You mention you refill with city water andd nutrients, so I'm guessing you follow the PPM technique. Might I suggest instead, try pre-mixing the nutrient solution and using that mixture to refill the container?

Yet you don't seem to be measuring pH ... Are you measuring PPM? How do you know how much food to add? Definitely get a pH meter and try to keep the water around a pH of 5.5 to 6.5 for most plants. According to this random person on the Internet, tomatoes prefer a higher pH, around 6.0 to 6.8. You can use these deadly chemicals to adjust the pH as needed. Plenty of tutorials for that sort of thing on YouTube.

Room temperature water is probably fine in most cases. Plants do reportedly like things a bit cooler than room temperature, but mine are doing just fine in their little mylar compartments, ranging from 75 to 85F. Then again, I rarely let mine get past a few months or so, and tons of random little problems seem to come up... So I might not be doing things "right" either. :)

Good that you have a fan there for airflow. Hope it's on low.

Lights should usually be 6-8" above the top of the plants, so instead of one big light, consider maybe getting several smaller lights that you can adjust individually for differently-sized plants. Your crop seems to be doing better than I would expect with so much of it being so far away from the light.

So exactly how are you taking care of your plants? Your considerations and research should include:

• Water:
• pH (usually 5.5-6.5 for most plants. Most tap water is around 7-7.5. Plants don't absorb the nutrients very well outside of their ideal pH range, no matter how rich the water is.)
• Nutrients (Experiment with pre-mixing to ensure you control what's actually in the water.)
• Temperature (I think ideal is around 65F, but room temperature seems to work fine)
• Lighting
• I have used 6400K T5 bulbs and 3700K LEDs, both work great.
• Keep ~ 6-8" above the top of the plants.
• Too far away and they won't photosynthesize. Too close and they'll burn.
• Airflow (Constant but low)
• Pests
• Air temperature
• Oxygen (Kratky / air roots or air pump/air stone / DWC)
• Blocking light from the water (you seem to be doing well here)

I wouldn't dare try to garden in soil. Tons of people are very successful at it, but it's too hard to know and control what's happening. Hydroponics is basically science :)

> Like what meter? 3.5 is awfully low

Currently using this. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKMH86J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I also have this... but hardly use.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BNKWZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like nutrient / PH - Depending on what you are feeding with, it is really good to check your PH. Especially if you are using the AeroGarden nutrients.

Tomato’s are prone to a lot of issues when grown outdoors. I have had limited disease issues inside. As long as you clean your hands and tools before working with your plant anything that affects it probably is induced from some other stress like PH or Nutrients or carried by an insect.

99% of problems are usually going to lead back to over feeding, under feeding or wrong ph. Provided you follow the gardens instructions, and place a little more emphasis to keeping a good ph you rarely will have a problem.

I run three bounty’s and usually have one dedicated to tomato’s.

Like all of us I kept buying more and more gadgets and tinkering with things with good success. But never had really enjoyed things as much as when I moved away from the AeroGarden nutrients. I was constantly trying to keep the ph correct and honestly I could see deficiencies all be it minor.

Once bought a professional nutrient package ph became a non-issue. I often still need to raise it a bit because I am also adding cal-mag but I would strongly suggest if you love this hobby spend the money on a good nutrient program, buy a ph pen and some basic stuff to help you deal with your plants.

A lot of failures are due to adding the 3 capfuls of fertilizer to your water. It’s not that simple. Fix that and you reap the rewards.

You can save this plant and it will be fine but as my wife often says theses tomato’s end up being the most expensive tomato’s we will ever eat. Sure is fun though.

Best of luck

PH UP/DOWN

Cal/Mag

Nutrients

Meter

Get this. If you don't ph the water with your nutes, the roots wont uptake crucial nutrients.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRTZ8LF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Add your nutes to the water, I usually mix them in a gallon bottle. Once your nutes are mix in, phd the water. Depending on where you live some tap water have higher or lower ph. Adjust to 5.5 - 6.0

Also use this, you can see how much minerals is in your tap water and how much is coming out the pot.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EFZ54E2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ph adjuster liquids

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BNKWZY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are the base nutrients I use, add the micro 1st, then the flora 2nd, and last add the bloom. I heard good things from foxfarm, both great companies

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017H73708?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Coco seems complicated but it really isn't, you have all the control. Number 1 rule always ph your water!

I can not speak to B&Q but pre-mixed soils friendly to growing weed do normally pack about 1 months worth of nutrients. After 1 month to supplement that I use (as was most recommended) this this and this to balance the nutrients and water this is very important - i just use the solution that comes with the up/down to test, i dont trust cheap ph pens and im not gonna spend hundreds for a bluelab pen. You really cant skimp in this part of plant care you will need these things.

You will need fans in your tent for airflow. Think big fucking lasko box fans, you need that kind of airflow before the end. Could get away with less depending on environment but you need to move some air. Fans dont control temp they prevent mold and help plants grow strong roots and thick stems by forcing them to.

To flower a plant like you probably want to you will need a more powerful light. I dont know what your plans are but pound for pound this is the best light I have come across in budget land. Will flower a single photo or a couple autos in a 2x2 tent. If you want a 3x3 tent flowering coverage you will need to use this light and another one half as strong to as strong alongside it.

Watch a lot of growing videos. I happen to like this youtube grower - watch and watch and watch more you will pick very important information up.

Feedback on my shopping cart - first grow

Looking for feedback on my shopping list for a first grow. if you guys could point out anything missing, better options, or better sizes let me know! Off the top off my head, im missing

• TDS meter (just don't feel like i need it, am i wrong?)

• clip on fans (do i need it? i assume my inline fan will suck air into the tent and out of the tent)

Growing space: A large, unused bathroom

Growing purpose: Personal use, 1 or 2 plants.

• Soil Happy Frog

• Tent Quictent 2ft x 2ft x 4.5ft

• Light Spider Farmer SF-1000

• Ventilation VivoSun 6 Inch 440 CFM + 6 Inch Carbon Filter + 8ft of Ducting

• Pots VivoSun 3 Gallon Smartpots

• pH control General Hydroponics

• pH meter Apera Al209-T Tester Combo Kit

• Nutrients General Hydroponics Pack of 3

Sure! I'm not an expert (I'm only on my 2nd grow), but here's my opinion...

Before you start buying and growing stuff, you need to decide on a few things: 1.) Hydro or soil? 2.) Grow discrete or stink up the neighborhood? 3.) How much money can you spend to start? 4.) How much room do you have? 5.) LEDs or HPS?

I'm in the hydro/discrete/~600USD/small-but-not-tiny camp/LED camp.

For a set-up similar to mine, you should buy the following:

HYDRO STUFF: - Hydroton - 5-gallon bucket (or you could use totes; whatever) - net pot for 5-gallon bucket (or for totes; whatever) - air stone - tubing for air stone - air pump (mine is less nice than the video, but has four lines, which makes it easier to expand to more buckets) - pH control kit https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=24JINCZVECVBV&dchild=1&keywords=gh+ph+up+and+down&qid=1598715050&sprefix=GH+pH%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-5 - OPTIONAL a electronic pH meter and a TDS meter

Here's a video on how to setup a basic single-plant DWC system https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ts0iaPRuPjM

NUTRIENTS: People argue a lot about this, but I'd keep it simple and just get - GH MaxiGrow - GH MaxiBloom

TENT and AIR - inline duct fan (I use this: https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-T4-Thermostat/dp/B06ZXWN3BG/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=in-line+fan&qid=1598715235&sr=8-4) - Carbon filter to connect your fan to - a regular old fan with clips on it - Tent (if you're looking to save money, you could start with a 2'x2', and then get a larger one later. Taller is better. The bigger the tent, the better lights and fans you need and the more plants you can grow)

MISC: - You'll need some good scissors for trimming. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-399241-1002-Non-Stick-Micro-Tip-Pruning/dp/B07KCZSMLJ/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=trim+scissors&qid=1598717008&sr=8-8 - not necessary, but I use plant velcro for Low Stress Training (LST). Plant twist-ties are also popular for LST. There are other training methods-- I've heard good things about SCROGing, but it's a little tricky to SCROG with DWC hydro. https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-VEL-30071-USA-Adjustable-Green-Recycled/dp/B082VH421C/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=plant+velcro&qid=1598716206&sr=8-5

LIGHTS: - Light timer (if you're planning on only growing autoflowers, you could technically get away with not buying this, but I'd still get one) - Either COB or Quantum Board style LEDs. Avoid "blurples" unless you get an incredible deal on them. I'm use a US-made AutoCob (this one: https://cobshop.net/shop/ols/products/autocob-55), but you could probably get something more powerful for less money from China. r/autoflowers has a good lights guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/Autoflowers/comments/gbgcrl/lights_megathread/

SEEDS: You're first big decision here is autoflower or photoperiod (regular). Autoflowers can be under lights for up to 24 hours their whole lifecycle (but 18h is better), and tend to be smaller and traditionally have less THC (although that's not necessarily the case anymore). For photoperiod plants, you have more options, they tend to be bigger, they will "veg" under 18h of light and then you can choose when to have them flower by switching to 12h of light. If even a speck of light hits them in their dark period when they are in flower, they can get all sorts of messed up.

Once you've decided on auto or photo, go with a reputable dealer. I used MSNL because of their super stealth shipping. People seem to like Seedsman. Mephisto and NightOwl only do autos and have a cult following. r/microgrowery has a seed guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/wiki/guides/seedbank

Once you've picked the dealer, consider something that's marketed as being easy for beginners. Assume the website is probably lying when it says a variety is "low-smell" or shows vibrant colors, and don't expect to get as high yields as they advertise.

After you get everything, start by germinating the seed. I use the "paper towel" method. Then mix the water and put the seedling in the hydroton. When I mix the water, I roughly follow GH's schedule (https://gh.growgh.com/docs/Feedcharts/GH_Maxi-REC_03216am.pdf) and keep the pH between 5.5 and 6.5. I check on the plants everyday because it brings me joy, but you really only need to check on them twice a week. I do a full water swap once a week.

For more information, check out guides from seed companies or youtube. I like Inside Hydro's videos.

Okay! Hopefully I didn't miss anything! Let me know how it goes if you try it!!

Your light I believe is way too weak, even for seedlings. You need to blast them like they’re on The Sun.

I am currently using a 315 watt ceramic metal halide with the full on ballast https://www.amazon.com/Sun-System-Grow-Lights-Hydroponic/dp/B00YT0QLBE/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3B0FIM44VVXU8&dchild=1&keywords=sun+system+315w+cmh&qid=1601395474&sprefix=Sun+Systems%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-4 . I’ve tried Kessil, compact flourescents, leds, and have had similar results as yours. Small plants that don’t ever really take off.

I have also learned to add nutrients the moment the sprouts go in the soil, coco, etc, blast them with as much light as you can find. Give them a small fan for a soft flutter. Without the small fans, plants fry. https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Clip-Stands-anywhere/dp/B000U9V47E/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3083PZ6OVJF0J&dchild=1&keywords=small+clip+on+fan&qid=1601395994&sprefix=Small+clip+on+%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-6

CalMag is essential at almost every stage (except for final flushing), I have not found others to be successful without it https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-CAL-MAG-Plant-Supplement-Formula/dp/B004JKBMRW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Cal+mag&qid=1601395564&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyNExQOTc2Njk0QzhFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTgyOTAxMlc5NE9QWVpMSllCNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTM4NTc3UFlDNzYyQ09UNUxDJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I also have been lucky growing in coco coir using House Garden nutrients. You really only need Coco A and Coco B, everything else is pretty fancy and expensive. Bottles go a long way https://www.amazon.com/House-Garden-Cocos-1L-Set/dp/B01HHH4D6U/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=House+garden+coco+a+and+b&qid=1601395705&sr=8-4

Lastly, if I don’t properly Ph my nutrients, it won’t matter what I feed them. Roots will not be able to absorb what they need to grow in a short time span. https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-pH-Control-Kit/dp/B000BNKWZY/ref=sr_1_36?dchild=1&keywords=mad+farmer&qid=1601395919&sr=8-36

Salt can also be your enemy. This is why a lot of growers use RO/DI water, especially when growing in coco, even after the coco has been thoroughly washed to eliminate any possibility of salt contamination (because there is).

You didn’t mention if you were growing in a tent or not. Tents are great, they really help control the dust and the dirt and help with negative pressure which is a fantastic thing for plant growth.