Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer, Yellow and Black

This is an awesome idea. If it’s anxiety based, this would be a great way to deal with it.

I have this bad boy and really like it (only $16) - Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5W-eEbE0YF5GJ

Am I going to measure my dick temp tonight? Probably. I’ll compare results if you do the test. NOTHING SEXUAL.

Been using this around the lab for years.

>You can't take a actual temp from a forehead and ever less if you pointing at them

yes, you can

> I don’t have a laser thermometer

I got mine cheaper a few years back, but this is your friend.

Amazon link to TEMP GUN but they saw us dabbers using it so it’s up to $23 but still. I’ve used it for years. Also, with the laser but I like the put the sensor just under that under my banger for the best temp gauge.

Also i would invest in a temp gun. That way you can get temps inside the hide on the bottom and temps of food etc. This is the one i have and I love it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_cjEuEbKNVDGG8

A little infrared thermometer from Amazon works well.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/

That's the one I have.

Have you taken an infrared thermometer to the bed? When I put on my glass bed, I noticed I had to increase the temperatures because the glass wasn't reaching the temperatures I had set (55C). I found that I had to get the temperature a bit higher in order to get 55C at the glass.

You could get a thermometer to put in the tank in that area, or you could get an infrared thermometer to measure to the temps in that area if you don't want to clutter up your tank: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and no problem - happy to help

>So... wear gloves, wash your hands often, keep a distance, & don’t touch your face. Hopefully they’ll be more info soon.

I deliver pizza, and employees at my location are getting sick. Though there are no reported cases in my area. We're chalking it up to "flu season/allergies". An employee called off today said he had a stomach ache and migraine (idk for sure). My employer wont close whatsoever, only if forced to. Even this thermometer rule, we have something like this which isnt even accurate at temperature reading! So we wouldn't even know if somebody is sick.

Its clear my company/management doesn't care about its employees safety. Or at least, not the extent in which they should. If i cant self quarantine and still receive benefits that definitely blows. My life isn't quite worth $3 tips and minimum wage.

You can also get a digital thermometer gun thingy its a point and shoot. I think it's a must for any reptile keeper. My corn i had for 22 years never needed a heat source at night. Temps drop into the low 70s even high 60s at times in the corn snake natural environment. If you are worried about night time heat look into a heat mat to place under the tank. It also requires a thermostat to not harm your animal. Night lights are the same as normal lights to a snake. If you use one a snake just thinks its day time all the time. I would not use one personally.

Get a temperature gun they’re fairly cheap. Here’s a link

Etekcity Infrared Thermometer 774 (Not for Human) Temperature Gun Non-Contact Digital Laser Thermometer-58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃) Yellow & Black, Standard Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f1kfFbFSCS1DV

You sure it's accurate? Measure from the inside of the glass and make sure the heat pad is in good contact with the glass.

Something like this is what you want

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uWbnFbZV2SQ1T

So red hot quartz is at 930degF to get a slight red glow, over 1k if it's bright red. It takes a while for the quartz to cool back down from those high temps to a point where you're not scorching the material instead of just vaporizing it. The 1min wait is the key there. You should buy a cheap IR laser thermometer (they're like $16 on Amazon) and not start dabbing until your banger bottom is nearer 500degF at the max. :)

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The high temps explain the chazzing, the scorched material leaves that residue behind.

How hot does it get in your garage when this happens? Measure the temp if you can.

Are you fully unwrapping the charging cable? If you leave some of it coiled up it can overheat.

The red triangle basically means a charging fault was detected. I believe the upper outlet LED illuminates when the temperature is too hot but charging will continue for a while after that. If the temperature continues to rise then the triangle LED illuminates and charging is terminated.

Have you tried a fan blowing on the outlet (the thermistor is in the plug) to see if that will help dissipate the heat?

Is the outlet itself very hot? Try watching for when the warning LEDs turn on and then gingerly touch the outlet with your hand. If you wait until later it would likely be cool since the charging was terminated.

Even better would be if you have one of those infrared thermometers (link is for reference, not endorsing this particular one). That way you could see more quantitatively what temperature the plug and outlet are getting to.

Edit: Also, you're not using any kind of extension cord are you?

Haha! This has done the trick for me so far, but this will be my first time using it at the range.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Two things.

First, with a Reddit post you get the title, and then one other thing, either a picture, a url, or a text box. How you did this works fine, with the imgur url and a post comment, another way to do this would be to make a text post and copy the url into the text. That's an easy way to do multiple pictures.

Second, heat control on that griddle is really important. One way of doing that is simply try different things and see how they work. One thing you should always do is bring the heat up slowly. Turn the burners to 2 or 3 and let that heat soak into the griddle. Then turn it up to 4 or 5. On most stoves you probably don't need to go hotter than that. And possibly get an infrared thermometer gun like this. This will let you perfectly equalize the grill temperature, and give you real feedback on your stove's settings.

> termómetros pistola

Obviamente uno bueno y mas preciso debe ser mas caro, pero en Amazon tenes estos genericos a 16 dolares cada uno

In the case of the heat rock it's worth it because they are really that bad. They seem like a good idea, but for your new guys safety it should be taken out. As for your original question if you really wanna know what's going on with your temps I would buy a temp gun. Amazon sells a ton of them but this is the one I just bought and it works great, just never point it at your leo. It's possible that he feels secure in the corner and doesn't really like the hide you picked but the temp gun can tell you if it's either too cold or too hot with more specificity then thermometers with probes.

Also check one of these things out and just set your oven accordingly.. These are also great for checking what your pans on the stove top are up to.

You could get one of these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pQ1eEb0GEJGN5) It's cheap and you could measure your hands against someone else's. But ya, doctor.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&hasWorkingJavascript=1&keywords=laser+thermometer+gun&qid=1598900055&sprefix=laser+thermom&sr=8-3 I made edibles with a normal cooking one but I ordered this one for my carts

People use these, but I guess you're not supposed to use em on people.

Getting an infrared thermometer can be super helpful for making sure you've got your roaster sufficiently hot before adding the beans and understanding how far along the roasting process is at various time intervals. Helped me a ton with this approach as I was first learning what temperatures to use on the stove top.

Every banger will have a different heat retention. If you truly want to not waste anything go get an IR gun:

$20-30

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=ir+gun&qid=1602687794&sr=8-4

Or do a Cold Start

• clean your banger well

• drop concentrate in clean banger

• heat side walls 2x around (about 8 seconds)

• cap your banger

• heat the bottom until the concentrate begins melting and SLIGHTLY bubbles

• inhale

• reheat if necessary

if you're playing with times, until you get it right you will waste a little wax, it just is what it is. Imo lower temps give more cloud production that higher temps. I go for 550-600F personally, depending on the strain.

As far as inhaling wax down the stem you could either get a deeper banger or not inhale so hard 🤘

yes. I used these a long time ago when I worked the deli at Vons to check temps on the cold items in the windowed case

1. your sweet spot is 350-425. buy yourself a cheap IR thermometer . it won't be completely accurate but it should take a lot of the guesswork out.

2. I use ghee or canola.

You want the surface temperature of the basking spot to be in the 105-110 range, not the air temperature. Get an Infrared Gun and use that to check the temperature of whatever he/she is laying on when they bask.

You need to regulate the temp of your pan. I would go with an IR-reader like this.

After than you need to find the time/temp needed to perfect the perfect burger as you see it.

I would just pick up 2 lbs of beef and go to work. Test one burger patty at a time.

Don't worry about when you eventually put 4-5 burgers into the pan as your meat will be pre-rested and a cast-iron pan will hold the heat.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_92BxFbMHSZR3R

Dab rig is considered a pretty reliable method, so it'd be valuable to learn how to use it...If you don't have a lot of spice, or spice is hard to get...Should get yourself a temp gun and use a carb-cap as OrganicAlienz suggested.

But the fun you can have shooting everything in sight for $15! Bonus: laser doubles as cat toy (also works on toddlers)

Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Jm5lEb819E07P

>I have a very good quality double boiler that I think makes the melting part a reliable method.

It's mostly just gentle on the chocolate. Less of a risk of scorching/burning the chocolate. You don't want to get the chocolate hotter than 120F or so. Only let steam touch the top part of the double boiler. Melt half of it in the double boiler then remove it form the heat to melt the rest then stir it until it reaches molding temp (85 - 87F).

> in a pyrex bowl, melt a few tablespoons unrefined palm shortening

Palm shortening is kind of a cocoa butter substitute while cocoa butter is much more ideal.

> and add water and decarbed flower to make canna-oil.

Water is not entirely necessary if you can keep a stable temp. Putting the flower and oil into a double boil would achieve the same. The water will wash some during infusion while vigorous boiling will agitate the flower which pulls more plant matter/impurities into the oil. Avoid excessive stirring agitation to minimize the weedy off taste. Wash after infusion after the flower is strained from the oil/solvent if you must wash it.

> [one could use butter or coconut oil but they are softer than palm shortening]

You can user about 30% coconut oil max. Something like 1 - 5% if you don't want to refrigerate it. It's not very shelf stable at higher concentrations and that's with using dark chocolate that's very hard and waxy. It also doesn't contain much cocoa butter by definition so it has room for the oil you add.

> have a towel on the counter - every time you lift the top part of double boiler, set it on the towel to mop off any condensation - you don’t want any drops if water falling into the molds.

True. Even a few drops can jack up a whole batch.

> pour into molds then put in fridge or freezer.

Stir it until it reaches 95F (monitor with laser thermometer) then add finely chopped and sifted even finer chocolate (seed chocolate) that provides seed crystals for a good temper (good crystal structure) then stir it until it reaches 85 - 87F (molding temp).

THEN you can mold and place it in the fridge. Do not put it into the freezer unless you are aiming for something specific that requires it. Simple fridges are used proffesionally. The old school method was basically just stirring it until it reached molding temp then stirring it as long as possible after that to form good crystals. You pretty much let it thicken up as much as possible without getting too think to mold. That's my basic understanding of tempering without modern stuff. They could have also just used cool cellars to help with that.

I use these all the time. The laser is just for aim.

The gun averages temperature measured in a circle. The radius is 1 inch in for every 1 ft away. (12:1). From 4 ft that is a 4 inch radius circle. The face is like 4 inches wide, so it's measuring temperature from far behind them and averaging it with their face.

Here is a link to one, 12:1 is the most common.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

It even says in the link: "for best accuracy, the distance between the thermometer and object of measurement should approximately be 14. 17 inches (36cm) "

It usually says the scatter on the side of the gun. I'm not surprised you work in construction, as I've pointed it out to people and they still don't believe me because of the misleading laser.

There are more expensive 50:1 ones (usually over $400). I hope you were using them at 100ft. That would still be a 2 ft radius. Thermal cameras are much better for these kind of thing.

Haha yeah, one of my friends has one and I thought it was super cool. This is the one I got. I'm not sure about temperature or time - but I can check when I get home and get back to you!

For a ball python a humidity level between 60 - 80 percent is good, 50 percent would be considered too low. Lower humidity levels can lead to respiratory infections, so higher is better! Feeding two mice/rats is not a recommended way of feeding. Her body is also not used to that amount of food intake, so it could stress her out. This could lead to regurgitation. You don’t want to increase food intake to quickly. You could always post a new post with a picture of her so others on this forum could see her body condition and weigh in on what prey size would be best for her, it never hurts to have a few more opinions. Don’t stress if she doesn’t take food the first time you offer it, she could still be adjusting. Also, ensuring her enclosure has the proper amount of heating and clutter/hides will reduce stress and make her feel more comfortable in her environment, further encouraging her to eat. Also, making sure her mouse is heated to the right temperature is another key piece, I typically aim for 100-105 degrees. I recommend measuring temperature of her food with a laser temperaturegun, I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Before getting a new bulb, still get new gauges, I would get an IR Thermometer to measure basking temps. If its too cold, less than 105F or 40C, I would recommend a dimmable Par38 halogen flood light with a dimmer switch to better regulate temps.

This is the laser thermometer I grabbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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cheap as heck and affective.

Good on you for being willing to take that on! That's he's eating already is a great sign! A couple improvements you can start working on to make sure he stays as happy and healthy as he sounds now:

1. You'll wanna get a digital thermometer. The stick on ones are notoriously inaccurate. I use this one. It's cheap and measures humidity too. An IR thermometer like this one will also be important to get readings in specific places.
2. For the lamp, you'll want a thermostat to prevent it from accidentally getting too hot. It's good that it dims, so you can keep an eye on it for now, but long-term, you've gotta have a thermostat to control it. If you use a cermaic heat emitter instead of a regular bulb, you'll be able to use a basic on/off thermostat. If you wanna stick with the bulb, you'll need a dimming thermostat, so just keep that in mind.
3. Try and make room for a second hide so that he has the choice of staying hidden on the warm or the cool end of the tank.

The above are just general snake things. For specifics on sand boas, just make sure that you get your research from a number of places, and probably avoid Brian Barczyk. I'd specifically check on how big he's likely to get if he's not done growing and whether you're ok to feed bigger (I suspect you are).

You need a thermostat. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I15S6OM/

Many people will argue that you should only get the super expensive very reliable ones, but I have one similar to that and haven't had a problem with it. You plug your mat into the thermostat and put the thermostat probe near the heat mat. My probe is on the inside of the tank right on top of where the heat mat is. Then you set the thermostat to your desired temp. The thermostat will regulate the heat. (Also, just in case, the heat mat goes on the outside of the tank)

Alternatively you could get a dimmable heat lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ Then put a 50w-75w heat basking bulb in that. Or you could put something like a 100w CHE (Ceramic Heat Emitter) in it. Use the dimmer switch to turn it down however much you need. Use it with a hygrometer and an infrared temperature gun like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/

If you have an active starter and temperature is high enough you should get a decent rise. There are no miracles. You may want to start measuring temperature to be sure. I usually link this trying to convince people to pay closer attention to temperature. Note that it is for 75% hydration and it is different for different % of inoculation and salt. My guess your bagel sourdough is pretty stiff so it would need more time to rise. I made myself a proofing box and I couldn't be happier with my rising time. 4-5 degrees F can make a huge difference. I would start with a thermometer though. Something like that is super helpful.

For a heat bulb you want a PAR38 halogen floodlight, you can find them at hardware stores and even Walmart. For wattage, that’ll all depend on how far the bulb will be from the basking area and what your temps are reading. So it’s a bit of trial and error to find the correct wattage. I always start with a lower wattage bulb, see what temps are, then either more up a wattage if it’s too cool or get a dimmer if it’s too hot. You MUST have a laser temp gun in order to find out what the basking temps are reading. you always want your basking light to totally cover your animals entire body so it warms the animal evenly. As far as lamps go, you can also get those at the hardware store, size(diameter) doesn’t really as long as the bulb fits in the lamp. Do tho make sure the lamp socket is made of ceramic, or porcelain! Never plastic! Lamp wattage should be twice the wattage of the bulb you are going to be using with the lamp.

Here’s some helpful links.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Classic-90-Watt-EQ-PAR38-Dimmable-Warm-White-Reflector-Light-Fixture-Halogen-Light-Bulb-2-Pack/1000443333?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--lit--google--lia--143--lightbulbs--1000443333-_-0&store_code=1022&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI__Knk43U6AIVl-DICh3m2QtUEAQYAiABEgKqLvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lutron-Credenza-Single-Pole-Black-Slide-Light-Dimmer/4462387?cm_mmc=shp--c--prd--rpe--google--lia----dimmersandspecialtydevices--4462387-_-0&store_code=1022&placeholder=null&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI58WMxY3U6AIVCY6zCh11rgz3EAQYASABEgJga_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Yes! Are they the dial thermometers? If so those are inaccurate and I would try to get a digital thermometer. You can do anything from like this to this.

If all you have is the dial thermometers it will at least give you a rough idea. I would put one under the basking spot right now. For young beardies you can go as high as 115. For adult beardies, 100-110 is good - some say 95, but I figure they can sit near it and get 95 and have access to the higher temp in case they want it. Then I would put one in the coolest spot, at least right now to tell you what's going on. 78-82 is good there.

I don't have a comparison between 2 units, but there is variation across the surface on my 36". As long as I give it plenty of time to heat I'll see 20-30 degree variations, but honestly it's doesn't seem to have much impact on cooking.

I use one of these to check: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My dad has one of those infrared thermometers and it works from 10 inches away, no more, no less. This one is 17 inches on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY. Those people aren't even getting within two feet of the thermometer so I doubt they are getting accurate results.

It was this one. Actually loads of fun to play with, but you can't measure people's temperatures with it (didn't stop me, I'm a rule-breaker)

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Sorry for in your face response. Kind of took my frustrations on other people’s posts on you. Not an expert but 30 years being a cat companion and the wife's experience is a decade longer.

Food: Review this. (Our vet concurs.)

https://catinfo.org/docs/CatFoodProteinFatCarbPhosphorusChart.pdf

It’s healthier to maintain a good weight. Feed on a schedule versus just dumping a bunch of food in a bowl (free feeding). Our boys get measured amounts of wet and dry food twice a day.

Water: A good clean adequate water supply. If you use a water bowl keep it clean and full. (protect surrounding area for spillage) Cats love running water. I highly recommend a water fountain even if the occasional cleaning is harder than a bowl.

Toys: Hands are not toys.

Soft toys – get a variety he will have a favorite type but he will surprise you with what he plays with such as a wadded up piece of paper. (cat crinkle ball)

Lasers – good exercise (prey hunting) however after a while they realize they can’t catch it and may lose interest. (Thermometer Temperature Gun used to be cheap, $8, and the battery lasts. Maybe hard to find now) https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

Interactive: Something you hold and your cat chases. A feather toy like Da Bird is a good one. One cat’s favorite is something we made from a sweatpants cord, a plastic tube and one of soft toys. Tread the cord thru the tube and tied on the toy. The tube acts like a wand and makes it easier on the human end.

Scratching Post: Cats can be made to use them which is much better than rugs or furniture. Cats differ on style, horizontal, vertical or inclined.

Perches: Cats like height Build or buy. You cat will love a view to the outside. I made our first one and it is still in use 30 years later (repaired a couple of times). A cheap way is to get a used tall end table and cover with carpet remnants and sisal rope on the legs for a scratching post(s).

Behavior The Jackson Galaxy web site has some good insight. It seems to have gone quite a bit more commercial from the last time I went there. https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blog/

Any thermometer that has the appropriate temperature range will work. You could use a simple weather thermometer like this, you could also get a little fancier with an infrared thermometer like this, but it will measure the temperature of the surface that you point it at, which should be close to the air temperature but might not be exactly the same. You could also set a glass of water out and let it get to room temp, then stick a probe cooking thermometer in it. There's also fridge thermometers with the proper range like this.

I'd be hesitant to use something used for measuring body temperature. If it's a glass one you can check if the correct temp range is on it, but they're kind of meant to measure fairly precisely in a narrow range, so I wouldn't trust a digital one or a glass one that doesn't have a very broad range marked.

I use a heating mat underneath with a thermostat underneath. This is under a hide and I use a temp gun to check and make sure it is staying around the 90 degree mark I want. Because I live in a drafty apartment and it can be a bit cool I also have a ceramic bulb lamp that is on the same end of the enclosure as the heat may but off to the side of it. My ball seems to exclusively be under a double hide on top of the heat mat or on the cool end under his water dish (he has burrowed under the coconut and sphagnum moss substrate) in a little cave he’s made. I might be a little paranoid but I hope this helps.

I don't know if you know this yet, but the 2 hides you need for each of them in each of their seperate enclosures should be where one is a "cool" hide in ambient room temperature of 75°F MINIMUM, and the other is a "warm" hide of 90°F MAXIMUM. The hides generally would be placed on opposite sides of the enclosure so the snakes can move from hide to hide to regulate their body temperature, being cold blooded animals.

I have a heat mat on the outside of the underside of the tank where the warm hide is and a ceramic lamp positioned directly over it, too. (Don't put the heat mat IN the enclosure lol.) The lamp is on a timer but the heat mat isn't. The mat temperature is regulated with a probe in the enclosure and a controller that turns the mat on and off whenever the temperature exceeds the amount that you can set. This controller has been a godsend and I highly reccomend it. You should also get a temp gun to monitor your enclosures and make sure that your snakes are happy.

Sphagnum moss raises humidity and misting daily helps too. Don't make the substrate too damp, because then the snakes could develop scale rot. The best indicator of proper ball python humidity conditions is the shed. If the shed comes off in patches, boost the humidity. (Also, make sure the eye caps come off in the shed so they don't develop vision problems and blindness from retained eye caps.) You can also put a humidity box inside the enclosure when you see your snakes' eyes turn blue with an impending shed so they can shed properly.

Zilla Reptile Terrarium Digital Thermometer-Hygrometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PBB1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_haJvEbRWP60J5

Hydrofarm Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Germination Heat Mat Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0LIvEbFK677HM

Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2MIvEb6JRABHG

Zoo Med Laboratories SZMLT10 Repti Day Night Timer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EI1II4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U0IvEbP56CFJ1

I do not have the zoo med brand timers, I think what I have is the all living things brand, which you can find at petsmart. I think it cost about $15, but I'm not sure. I can personally vouch for the other things and I'm sure the zoo med brand timer will work fine too.

You should check out goherping on youtube, he has very educational videos on ball python setup and you'll learn a lot!

Best of luck and I hoped this helped you! :)

PS: You should do an update post once you figure everything out!