Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

So I used a silicone tip solder sucker that's been nothing short of amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

Although, I'm shit and I wasn't able to get every bit out so I ended up just clipping the legs on the encoder and cleaning up the rest with a de-solder braid. No use in keeping it since it was broken I figured

spend the extra bucks for https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've used a handful and this one is the best IMO.

The ones with an actual air pump are better but those are a lot more expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

I just got a Ksger T12 a few weeks ago myself. Why do you use such a high temperature?

Is there a reason why you use a wick? I find I have an easier time with a solder sucker. I use this one personally and it's great: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

Dude do yourself a favor and check this thing out: Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N6oIFbM5ZEFSA

Best one I’ve ever used, made in Japan, and will literally last my entire life. The build quality of this thing is flat out amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

Looks like a nice bit of kit! Using a cheap sucker vs a good sucker makes a ton of difference, I'll bet using that station was even easier! Did it ever clog or require cleaning?

Side note enjoy those speed silvers! I have some speed coppers and they don't get a lot of love here but I enjoy them, especially for the price.

Id recommend a better desoldering pump. If youre using one of those all plastic ones that usually come with a kit there are better options. I use this one and it works really well though it does seem a bit expensive for just a desolder pump. It also seems counter intuitive but use flux and add a little but of solder when you are desoldering.

I have used this solder sucker with great results. It may also be helpful to apply a bit of flux to each joint before desoldering.

If the Hakko is too much for you then this one is decent.

Anything else is crap.

I had a simple manual one but I bought a nice one and it was night and day. Not saying that ones bad, I’ve never used it, but don’t be afraid to buy a nice one.

Here’s the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

I bought it with replacement tip material and it’s just a dream. The flexible tips really make a difference and it makes it so much easier to get a good seal around certain parts.

if you have soldering tools, you have almost everything you need for desoldering. All you really need is a desolder pump. This one is quite good: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=solder+sucker&qid=1606529414&sr=8-3

If you want to try desoldering, I highly recommend using this solder sucker: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/

The soft silicone tips make all the difference.

Save yourself a lot of trouble and get this: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

/u/cryptosystemtrader

you'll get more use out of this

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=solder+sucker&dchild=1&keywords=solder+sucker&pd_rd_i=B002MJMXD4&pd_rd_r=a37bbe6f-911f-4df7-bf92-b09cb70dd971&pd_rd_w=8A1Jc&pd_rd_wg=fGqcO&pf_rd_p=13bf9bc7-d68d-44c3-9d2e-647020f56802&pf_rd_r=96FXDQRJN6SYCBCH643S&psc=1&qid=1598052374&sr=1-1-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f

This is the one I ended up getting.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

I think it works great, although the only other one I've used is the one in OP's picture. I have really only used it on through hole soldering on keyboards.

This is the one you want - https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=solder+sucker&qid=1606832154&sr=8-5

Takes 5 minutes. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ this thing has paid for itself a million times over. I have a Hakko FR-301 for the big stuff but this thing is the business.

Are you in the retro group? And yes it is set for one side only which is weird, you'd figure it would just combine both. I ended up bridging L & R at the header and adding two RCA inputs still. Do you have the part number for the built-in speaker so I can order one?

this thing is awesome. https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

the cheap ones work fine, too, but the tips get mangled, and they fall apart sooner or later

if there's a blob of solder on the leg, it's going to warp the socket, so you do want them pretty clean. you don't have to go nuts, though.

That azeron keypad looks crazy lol, and the ploopy also looks super interesting!

I reaaaallly like the zealios feel, super light with noticeable bump. The only problem is that it's quite loud. I actually just got my bobas as well, and not super into how "squishy" it feels, but thats just on a switch tester, gonna pop them into a hotswap board probs this weekend to give them a fair shot. I also have tried the novelkeys hako clears, but I thought their springs were a bit too heavy. My go to tactile previous to trying the zealios on the plaid are kaihl box browns tho, honestly dont think you can go wrong with them (outside of reported incompatibility with gmk keycaps).

Yeah get it through the finish line!! Worst case scenario, the plaid is just really nice to look at haha. I'm sooo not an expert on soldering, being quite new to this, but if you do run into trouble and need a second eye feel free to ping!

Here are links: - flux pen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EWLIK5A/ - v good solder sucker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/

Does your solder sucker have a little silicone tip like [this] (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/51I7WpKxc4L.AC_SY400.jpg)? It makes a better seal between the pad and the sucker, which is nice. It's comparatively expensive, but the Engineer SS02 works very well and could potentially help with this.

you're doing much better than me. the pins are a bit thinner than the average so its much easier to de-solder. I recommend one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've had this one for years now, I bought some tubing I replace its tip with every few months and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=solder+pump&qid=1608149673&sr=8-5

Buy an engineer solder sucker and apply a tab of flux to get it flowing good. Quality solder sucker with a silicon tip will make a world of difference.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4

Engineer (brand) SS-02 Solder Sucker

• https://www.engineer.jp/en/products/ss01e.html (scroll down)

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002MJMXD4/ and https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003K0B3HG/

Do not use the little sponge. Wet sponges cause a rapid drop in heat, which is what causes the pitting/breakdown of the tips. Copper coil tip-cleaners work much better for tip-longevity.

You don't have to buy this expensive hakko one, but they work better than the budget brands, as the solder wicks off better to their coils.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Wire-type-soldering-cleaner/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+tip+cleaner&qid=1594210150&sr=8-3

You should also buy a soldering pump for desoldering components. It greatly reduces the time you need to heat the components, minimizing the chance you break down the pcb lacquer which cause lifted/ burned copper pads/traces.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=soldering+pump&qid=1594210315&sr=8-15

I've had both, the upgrade to a TS100 is more than worth it. Based on stuff I actually use to build keyboards, I'd say this is the quality starter kit to build a first board and learn to solder:

TS100 with power supply and B2 tip ($75): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07THWRGVW

Aoyue tip cleaner and iron stand ($9): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C789EU

Kester 44 solder wire pocket pack ($12.50): https://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AVLM4SO/

Solder sucker / desoldering wick / flush cutters ($12.50): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQZJ5L6/

Kester 83-1000-0951 No-Clean flux pen ($7): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004X4KOWS

That gets you started for under $120.

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Nice-to-haves if you want to get into the hobby more seriously. These aren't necessary, but they're either good for safety, or are quality tool upgrades to make life easier for things you use a bunch. For example the Engineer solder sucker is a life saver if you need to desolder whole boards, but don't want to spend $250 on a Hakko desoldering gun. I'd recommend the smoke absorber as the first purchase off this list--safety first.

TS100 case ($13): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DQLY5JP

Weller WSA350 bench top smoke absorber ($60): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM74SK

Kester 24-6337-8800 No-Clean 0.031" solder ($27): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU

CHP flush cutter ($9): https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K

Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker ($32): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MJMXD4

[Service] Keyboard Builds By CJack

Located in Seattle, WA

My name is Connor and I like to Party i.e. build keyboards. Been in this hobby for about 2 years now. Just in that time the hobby had grown so much! So many cool keyboard/keycap designs out there.

Terms and Conditions:

• Client supplies keyboard case, plate, PCB, switches, and stabs, I will supply Krytox 205G00 for stab tuning.
• Client pays for shipping both ways. I will charge return shipping and build cost in a Paypal Invoice after completing keyboard. Will ship keyboard back in same package.
• Can expect turn around time of 2-3 days after keyboard arrives. This will increase if build queue begins to grow. We'll stay in contact so you'll know when to expect the board.

Limited time offer for agreed upon builds:

• I have 3 sets of C3 Equalz Screw-in stabs we can use for your build: Orange, Light Blue, Pink. [+$10]
• I have a small selection of switches that can also be used depending on size of keyboard:
• NovelKeys Creams [x84] [+$84] [Stock] [Not willing to sell separately]
• Turquoise Tealios [x90] [+$100] [Stock]
• Tealios V2 [x67] [+$100] [Lubed with Krytox 205G00, Switch Filmed, and spring swapped to Sprit 68g S]

Note: Tealios swtiches are in stock, but you'll avoid shipping costs.

Items to consider:

What keyboard layout you would like if PCB/Plate do not have a fixed layout, split backspace, size of spacebar (6.25u, 7u), ect.

Current Soldering Prices:

|65% or less|$20| |:-|:-| |75%|$25| |TKL|$25| |Full Size|$30| |Questions|Free|

Current Desoldering Prices:

Same Prices as Soldering

Steps:

1. Reply to this thread with 'PM'
2. PM me on Reddit or Discord (Prodigy_117#6043)
3. We'll chat to make sure there aren't any outstanding questions (i'll ask about the build, what kind of keyboard, we'll confirm price, ect.)

Soldering Example

Boards I've Built:

Keycult No.2 Rev.1

Tofu60 - 2 builds

Acrylic Alice

KBD 8XMKII

Lubed HHKB Pro 2

Tools:

ai03 Switch Opener

Princeton Artist Brush #2

TX Switch Slider Picker

Lube from NovelKeys

Weller Soldering Iron

Hakko Iron Tip Cleaner

Engineer SS-02 Solder Sucker

​

Thanks for looking!

My first project! The May Pad from Keyhive. Switches are Gateron Yellows lubed with Krytox 205g0, keycaps are OSA Sleeves.

I think a lot of newcomers have entered the hobby recently (myself included), so I thought it might be interesting to provide a breakdown of entry level costs for a complete beginner with no prior experience or supplies. I had basically nothing applicable to this hobby starting out, in terms of equipment or skills. I ordered the MayPad as an introductory product to get a little bit of experience and see what I was getting myself into before taking the big plunge and I’m really glad I did. It was a lot of fun and gave me chance to do a lot of things for the first time that I’m really glad I won’t do for the first time on an expensive group buy – soldering (and desoldering), using QMK and flashing a controller, lubing and placing switches and stabs, and a little bit of troubleshooting along the way. I’ve since hopped on a group buy for my first board (Protozoa’s P.02 Discipline 65% kit – GB open until August 12th/whenever the prototype makes it to their build streamer).

Here’s what I spent to get from zero to my little MayPad (taxes and shipping NOT included):

Component | Price ---------|----- Soldering iron| $69.98 Solder wire| $26.30 Solder sucker| $29.97 Solder wick| $6.88 Paintbrushes | $4.99 Fine point tweezers| $6.39 Solder tip cleaner| $9.57 Flush cutters| $8.47 Small fan| $10.99 Flux pen| $10.04 Keycap puller| $5 Switch opener| $8 Lube (Krytox 205g0, 5 mL)| $10 Switch films| $8 (2 packs of 100) Stabilizers| $31.25 for essentially a fullsize kit, Dan can hook you up if you ask Switches (Gateron Yellows)| $4.80/20 switches Maypad | $18 Keycap set (OSA Sleeves)| $85 TOTAL| $353.63

With shipping and taxes where applicable, the real total was just under $400 (about $300 for me to get the supplies to get started with mechanical keyboards and the other $100 for my build). As you can see my biggest single expense was the keycap set. I thought about getting a cheaper set from Amazon or similar, but in the end I thought for the price OSA Sleeves was a very attractive and comprehensive set with a lot of mods and whatnot, and I was gonna need something for my group buy board while I wait for keycaps that are still in the IC phase. I’m sure I could have done it cheaper, but this is what worked for me. Thanks for looking, hope it helps somebody else.