Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - CT1000MX500SSD1

[SDD] Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - $99 @Amazon & Adorama

I personally compared NVME to SATA and couldn't find any reason to buy the NVME.

I went with the Crucial MX500

Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT1000MX500SSD1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KBB/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_UQDlEbVG4YK2K

Currently 99$

Better than the crucial MX500?

The mx500 is on sale for prime day https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB/

In that case, the Build looks pretty much optimal! If you can (or want to) afford the extra cost, maybe consider an NVMe SSD (depending on what resolution you edit video in). I'm also not quite sure about the QVO SSD, consider maybe an mx500 or an EVO. Also make sure your monitor doesn't bottleneck your gpu (So it's 1080p144 or 2560p60 or higher)

I haven't seen any info on SK Hynix SSDs, but do know that they are a trusted maker of NAND chips, so it looks fine. There's also this Crucial that's well known, tested, and reviewed. Either is likely fine, however, and Amazon has great return policies for products that they ship themselves.

The fans being set high shouldn't hurt anything outside of volume levels (and perhaps lifespan in the long-term). Would take one heck of a bug/oversight for that to end up as a CPU performance issue.

It does make me wonder, however, what frequency your CPU is boosting to. You only mentioned GPU temperature figures, correct? How about CPU? If it's not cooling it won't boost very high and thus give poor performance, although I'm unsure if it'd be "late start" issues in SteamVR. One thing that UserBenchmark doesn't test is performance over time taking heat into consideration, as it's a short test.

They are friend

If you do go with a PS4 Pro I highly recommend getting a solid state drive to replace the onboard drive. It comes stock with a 5400 RPM drive which is astronomically slow. I have recently replaced my PS4 Pro with a Crucial MX500 and can’t believe the performance improvement. Got mine from Amazon.

Amazon

You can either clone the drive from one or the other or just install the OS into the new one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vcPmEbW99033K

Comparatively, on sale for $103.49 on Amazon if you'd rather pay a few extra bucks to not deal with Newegg or if you get Amazon credit card rewards

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB/

If your mom is doing mom things just chuck it in for 12gb of ram, it'll be fine. Chrome shouldn't be able to defeat her laptop.

If she wants more space upgrade to any value SATA SSD. If she has some cash kicking around try and make sure it has a DRAM cache. Not all drives lacking a DRAM cache are bad but buying a drive with one is easier if you don't want to spend a bunch of time researching.

Edit: bang bang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KBB?th=1&psc=1

Crucial MX500 1TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT1000MX500SSD1, Blue/Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OXv0EbAM5VJMN

Deal link: Amazon

Category-wise subreddits:

Is your reddit feed getting flooded with deals for products you are not interested in? Below are our category-wise subreddits where I crosspost from the main sub.

|Category|Subreddit| |:-|:-| |Electronics|/r/Deals_Electronics| |Grocery|/r/Deals_Grocery| |Video Games|/r/Deals_VideoGames| |Home Improvement|/r/Deals_HomeImprovement| |Clothing and Accessories|/r/Deals_Apparel|

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Also on amazon

Here you go buddy....

120hz screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLD5Y12/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_BVvHFb361QR9H

Literally any 2.5in SSD should fit and work no problem. You'll just have to reinstall windows so make sure you back up everything including your games on an external hard drive. Here's the one I use...

SSD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_FYvHFb5MMT6SM

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB/

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You're welcome

> USB Flash drive.

The category now is mostly disposable. Even name-brand USB mass storage sticks develop errors when subjected to several read/write cycles. They give away USB Flash drives with PDF catalogs at trade shows next to the candy.

I would suggest you get a $10 plastic enclosure and a $115 MX500 1 TB.

The 1050 ti is worth 60 dollars. Dont buy. Get a 1650 super instead

Get this far better ssd https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB before sale is iff

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I suggest a far cheaper motherboard https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-MicroATX-Motherboard-B450M-PRO4/dp/B07FVYKFXF

Get a 2.5 inch SATA SSD, and a SATA to USB Adapter.

Some good SATA drives are the Crucial MX500 and Samsung 860 EVO. If the prices of those are a little too high. You can use this spreadsheet by NewMaxx

The drive bay takes a SATA 2.5 inch drive, so any laptop sized drive will do the trick, as well as most SSDs having that form factor. You don't need to splurge on a great drive since the PS4 can't fully use the speeds like a PC would. Still, a significant improvement. Something like the [Crucial MX500] (https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B078211KBB) or the WD Blue would do the trick, make sure it's at least 1TB or you'll run out of room quick. Cheaper compromise while still being an upgrade is the Firecuda that is part SSD and part HDD, better than the base HDD.

Do you think this model would fit?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078211KBB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

It's a Predator Helios 300 PH315-51-73FS, it came with the specific HD model " WDC WWD10SPZX-21Z10t0".

EDIT: Acer says no, Crucial says yes.

https://community.acer.com/en/discussion/552702/information-needed-for-acer-predator-helios-300-ph315-51-ram-and-ssd-upgrade

https://www.crucial.com/compatible-upgrade-for/acer/predator-ph315-51

You can get a 1TB Crucial MX500 for $90, a 1TB WD Blue for $93, and a 1TB Samsung 860 EVO for $99. They're all excellent drives. The 2TB versions are roughly double the price.

$1000 Portable Gaming PC with Peripherals -- Video Card focused budget build

Hello all,

​

I've been kicking around a lot of ideas in my head. I'm currently limping through with a HP Omen 15-ax033dx with a killer upgrade of 16 GB of RAM and a 1 TB SSD, as well as having repasted the CPU and GPU. This beast of a laptop packs a punch with a GTX 960M, which limps along around 30 FPS on Medium settings in DOOM Eternal. If I'm killing enemies, you know, it tries to go back up to 30 FPS. But I'm about half way through the game, and I love it.

​

Anyway, I'm looking to build a portable PC, either a Mini-ITX or Cooler Master HAF XB, because I need that kind of portability. I am currently debating between three different builds, all of which are a few dollars over $1000, which is fine, and all parts must come from Amazon because reasons. I am OK with a 1600AF, as all 4 of these builds feature that processor as a custom part, because PCPartPicker hates me or I suck using it in selecting that processor.

​

This build is going to be used for gaming only: I'll keep my laptop for other general purposes and move my games off of it. I play DOOM, DOOM Eternal, BF 1/3/4/H, NFS, Fallout 3/NV, Metro, ARMA, Brutal DOOM, etc. I would like another hard drive as a redundancy, however, technically, the budget does not allow it at this time. Squeezing 16 GB of RAM into the $1,000 budget would be nice, regardless of the RAM speed, however, I don't think it's possible at this point and I would prefer a larger hard drive rather than more RAM. Furthermore, I am sticking to the PSU tier list here and am looking to stay at Tier B or better, and am looking to stay at Bronze efficiency or better.

​

I like the sexy factor of the mini-ITX, it's playful and portable and fun; however, it's definitely gimped in raw power of the video card because the case and mobo are more expensive than the Cooler Master eyesore. The video card represents \~44% of each of the cube builds (not including monitor, mouse and keyboard), and \~31% of the first mini-ITX build, and \~37.5% of the second mini-ITX build. Below are the builds I've come up with:

​

Edit: $1000 Cube -- Literally at $1010 with taxes. Changed it around, this is the preferred #1 build now. Mini-ITX just got shit on. Thermaltake V21 with wifi, 8GB Patriot 3000 CL16, 500gb NVMe, MSI 5700 Mech OC; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard. Even the CM blight will have to take a back seat to this.

​

$1000 Cube 1.1 -- $3 under the former build, with a B450 Micro itx, 8 GB patriot 3000 CL16, but still the same video card, 256gb nvme; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard.

​

Mini ITX version -- features an MSI Gaming Plus B450i so it has Wifi , Sapphire Pulse 5500 XT (144hz monitor = overkill?), 8gb GSkill 3200 CL16, 256gb nvme; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard.

​

Mini ITX 1.1 -- $1000 with a 5600 XT, A320 mobo, 8gb patriot 3000 CL16, 256gb nvme; 144hz 1080p monitor; mouse and keyboard.

Nothing per se, but for 5 bucks more you get a top ssd in the MX500, or a better but still "budget" option in the Sn550, and then for roughly 10 dollars more you can get an 860 evo, a sx8200, etc. I feel like this is too much for a QLC drive. The 860 evo and SN500 have the same 10% cashback with primecard that this 870 qvo has.

Looked up the SKU: 2UE54UA#ABA. Seems there is a old style 5400rpm HDD installed. It is worth it to get it changed out with an SSD. Or get an m.2 SSD installed. A good M.2 would be this one. If you want to change out the SATA HDD for an SSD this would also be a good one.

Again it is worth it as the machine is not that old and could do with a good SSD. Maybe go to a local computer shop to clone your disk and all info on it to the new ssd if you dont want to re-install the machine or arent able to do that.

Get a Crucial MX500 (https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=Crucial+MX500&qid=1604875010&sr=8-4) with a Sabrent 3.1 Adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-Adapter-Optimized-EC-SS31/dp/B017NIDXF0).

This is what I have waiting for my PS5 and what I recommend. have been using this SSD on my PS4 for a few months now.

If you look around you can find a refurb MD389LL/A (Late 2012 Mac Mini 2.3G Intel Core i7) for around $350.00. You're gonna want to pimp it out with 16G of memory for an additional $80 bucks, and $120 more get a 1TB 2.5" SATA III SSD.

Of course you're gonna need to hook up a monitor, keyboard, and mouse to it, but maybe you have that stuff lying around. I have mine connected to a Cal Digit TS3+ via a Thunderbolt adapter which gives me a shitload of ports, including a Thunderbolt 3 port, which can be handy.

This machine runs just great on my 30/40 track Rock projects, with usually has a bunch of guitar amp sims, synths, compressors, reverbs, etc. This machine has 8HT cores, and can record a couple of simultaneous audio tracks at 44.1 using a 32 sample buffer size without issues. Even if it chugs on some of your 80+ track tunes, you can always freeze/bounce tracks if you start running into trouble, like we used to do in the old days when computers were slow. Not bad for $550.

I believe any SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD should work.

Here are a few examples from a well-known brand (another popular one is Samsung):

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=crucial+hard+drive&qid=1596059909&sr=8-3

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https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-SATA-Internal/dp/B078211KBB/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=crucial+hard+drive&qid=1596059909&sr=8-4

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-BX500-NAND-2-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B07G3KRVWP/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=crucial%2Bhard%2Bdrive&qid=1596059909&sr=8-5&th=1

​

You can toggle the capacities and search the reviews for other customers who used the same drive to upgrade their own MacBooks.

If you can, I'd suggest getting an HDD or SSD, such as one of these:

SSD: Crucial MX500 1TB ($100): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078211KBB Small SSD: Crucial MX500 500GB ($65): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786QNS9B HDD: Seagate Barracuda Pro 1TB 7200RPM ($49): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TJ17QF Small HDD: Toshiba Mq01acf050 500GB 7200RPM ($27): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G2I1B16

But if you are certain you want a USB drive (they go up to 2TB, although uncommon above 256GB):

Cheapest without super slow speeds: HP x900w 256GB ($28): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077BL7THJ/ Fastest without SSD controller: Samsung FIT Plus 256GB ($50, goes on sale for $40 often) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7Q41PM/ Fastest with SSD controller: Corsair Flash Voyager ($71 - 256GB / $126 - 512GB / $279/1TB): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NWJTGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_91JlEbS6YTM6H

A USB drive with an SSD controller is much faster, but is a lot more expensive then an SSD. I'd strongly suggest getting an SSD/HDD over a USB drive if you are willing to open the laptop and install it.

I just took a look at the current new prebuilt desktops on Newegg and Amazon and none of them are really worth it below the the $400 mark. The refurbished 3rd / 4th gen desktops at the $200-$300 basically blow any new prebuilt $300-$450 prebuilt computer out of the water in terms of value. Are you willing to build a computer and use either Linux or Windows 10 with a windows activation water mark (assuming you don't have a Windows 10 license / not going to simply pirate it)? The best thing I can come up with is in between the $300-$450 range is a $354 PC build not including tax. If you are willing you can build a more than decent web browsing / basic productivity machine with these parts.

AMD Ryzen 5 2600 \~$120

Asrock B450/AC Mobo \~$85

Patriot Viper Steel Series DDR4 8GB 3200MHz \~$38

Thermaltake SMART 600W 80 PLUS \~$44

Inland 120 GB SSD \~$22

Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L \~$45

Total = $354 not including tax

I chose that CPU in particular because its pretty powerful one that should be more than enough to last you way into the future, especially if you ever decide to start gaming. I chose that motherboard in particular because it was the cheapest one that has built in WIFI though at the trade off that the only built in display port type it has is HDMI, andthe fact 4 RAM slots in case you ever want to upgrade to more RAM. Generally when I build a computer I always try to get a motherboard with whatever desired modern display port that my monitors support such as Display Port, HDMI, or DVI and always get one that has VGA for trouble shooting purpose in case anything happens. Because most people usually have a monitor with a VGA port laying and most monitors usually come with a spare VGA port for backwards compatibility. I chose that particular kit of RAM because again its the cheapest set of 3200Mhz RAM from a reputable company. There are cheaper PC cases out there but I chose that one in particular because its the cheapest Micro ATX case from a reputable company with good build quality. I have built systems in a lot of different cases at various price points from different brands and in my opinion the cheap sub $40 cases from off brands or even well known companies are usually terrible. They usually have terrible quality control with either sharp edges, incorrect machining where mounting points are off alignment, or poor soldering jobs on the corner of the case that makes it impossible to put in the motherboard correct, etc... I chose a 600 watt power supply so that you have enough wattage to upgrade in the future if you ever decide to add a graphics card for gaming or other peripherals, and that particular model because its the cheapest decent one from a reputable brand. The Inland 120 GB SSD is the only part I am a bit hesitant on recommending because it is a DRAM-less SSD. Meaning it doesn't have the same write endurance as a high quality SSD with DRAM. Write endurance refers to how many times you can repeatedly delete and write data on it. Though it should be fine if you are just web browsing and typing essays. It should a more than decent budget SSD as long as you're not repeatedly writing massive amounts of data on it and then deleting it for shits and giggles. Just for reference it has endurance rating of 75 TBW, meaning you can completely fill up the 120 GB SSD and delete and rewrite data on it 625 times before you encounter any problems with the SSD. I chose it cause its one of the cheapest decent quality DRAM-less SSDs, and should be more than enough storage space for you to install your operating system and programs and probably 1-2 large games 20-60 GB games or about a dozen smaller games.

If you want to throw in a Windows 10 license that would be another \~$130. You can get a better quality SSD like a 500 GB Crucial MX500 for \~$67. If you want a 1TB SSD you can get either the Samsung 860 QVO, Intel 660p, Crucial MX500 for \~$100-$110. Or you can get a Seagate ST1000LM049 1TB HHD \~$53 for bulk storage for non-speed sensitive files like text, pictures, music, and movies.