Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required). Upgrade to 24-Bit 96Khz Playback

Sounds like an internal fault in the audio jacks. If the laptop has a separate board for them, you might be able to replace just that. If you can't, and don't want to replace the whole motherboard, you can always just get a USB sound device

sadly most motherboards have terrible audio controllers..

if you are from the US id suggest something like this amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&qid=1607260812&sr=8-3 its a USB to Audio outputs and even tho its cheap its often a heck of a lot better at removing buzzing from 3.5mm mics

>you don't need to spend much to get a good DAC
>
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ $20
>
>for 24bit / 96khz sampling. which is just about twice the sampling rate of an audio CD.

Sampling rate is not an indication of DAC accuracy/quality. Are there independent measurements for this DAC that show how accurate it is? I could not easily find any.

Can you stretch your budget a bit?

The AKG k361 for 99, and a FX audio dac x6 for around 60 would be around $160 but a lot better than any gaming headset you can get. If you get a USB Dac youre not gonna need to use your PCs own AUX.

If you dont want to spend more than the 150, you could get this: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ in place of the FX audio dac x6. I have no experience with it, but it should be good enough to drive the K361.

Sure, it can be. Depends on the card. You can even just use a USB “sound card”.

Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required). Upgrade to 24-Bit 96Khz Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJFaFb256KK87

Not exactly on any of these. I bought ATX-M50X's + V-Moda Boom Pro mic and this dac/amp.

It is quite cheap and I have no issues with a volume. Also it have a software for EQ, VSS and other stuff. Can't tell about the audio quality cause this is my first external sound card and I have nothing to compare it with. But it seems fine.

And M50x is 38 ohms compare to PG1/PDG1 39 ohms, so you should be fine with that. But you will probably still need a splitter from TRRS to 2xTRS for sound and mic connection.

​

p.s

Also I'm refunding M50x cause it sound profile is just too bass muddy, even after equalization with APO EQ and it sound stage is non existant. Don't buy this one for gaming.

Something like this would work for the headset

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1EFRCGCQ68P8Y&dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&qid=1599373078&sprefix=usb+dac%2Caps%2C202&sr=8-3

Does the sound happen if you plug the speakers into your phone's headphone output? I'm guessing it's the line level output on the computer as internal DACs built onto motherboards are notoriously garbage and the kind of noise you were describing is pretty textbook problem with them. Any external DAC like this will probably get rid of that sound but test it first by seeing if it still makes the sounds plugged into your phone or an iPod or something

> AE5

Hi there you are so right about the Asus SE and the B450 motherboads one which I currently have thank god you mentioned this I almost made the mistake of getting that Asus Xonar SE.

I can't afford the AE5 tho, can only afford the FX Audigy

My choice currently is between the Apple USBC dongle which I read on Audioscience Amir said is top tier stuff for only $9 but the headphone amp isn't that powerful at all. It is too weak for a HD6XX he says, but I have a HD58X jubilee which is only 150 ohms so maybe it might run it? probably but

So far the choice now appears to be between the Audigy FX for $30 used on AMazon warehouse or the Apple Dongle

OR as an alternative this

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

But somehow I feel this may not be more powerful than the Apple dongle. I Wish there was a review of this

When I had my old PC with the xonar DG I really did appreciate the virtual surround for gaming, it did make a huge difference even if they say it's a gimmick. I think those "gimmicks" are only gimmicks for music listening, I feel like when it comes to gaming there is a benefit.

You just using headphones or something with a single line out speaker wise? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_GZKXEbEXRRXNZ

If you want something a bit more robust that can play at louder volumes or drive harder headphones, grab a fiio e10k. If you want to use headphones and have or would consider passive speakers later, sabaj a4 is good.

I had the same problem and solved by getting cheap USB soundblaster: Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required). Upgrade to 24-Bit 96Khz Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2dreEb2TDGMD4

I have an Anker USB-C hub connected to my LG 5k UltraFine and this plugged into the hub: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ

Would this get the job done?

Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required). Upgrade to 24-Bit 96Khz Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-JiEFbXFH0DZR

Could be worth trying a USB sound card, like this one. Might help to give your headphones some isolation from the noisy internal sound card.

Looks fine. People complain about the amount of noise it produces. Might want to consider the cheaper play which is basically the same thing, but doesn't have the surround sound.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_J3AVFbES1A2H0

Also be aware that just because it says it can drive 300 ohm doesn't mean it can do it well. Might want to consider adding an amp or a getting a combined dac/amp.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VDQQY95/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_.7AVFbEWCQ6DM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Kingtop 3.5mm Combo Audio Adapter Cable for PS4,Xbox One S,Tablet,Mobile Phone,PC Gaming Headsets and New Version Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_WoYZEbBKEHEHZ

Something like this or the reverse of this? I can't really tell by your post. Also, something like this too

Creative Labs Sound Blaster Play! 3 External USB Sound Adapter for Windows and Mac. Plug and Play (No Drivers Required). Upgrade to 24-Bit 96Khz Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_2qYZEbAHEMSVQ

Actually here's a good one that supports 96Khz @ 24 bit. https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/

when you said low impedence, i thought you meant IEMs (16 ohms for some of them).

Superlux hd668b are 56 ohms, 98 dB sensitivity.

My audio technica ath-m40x are 35 ohm, 98 db sensitivity. I get no noise with or without ground loop isolator using either my soundblaster play 3 or my soundblaterx g5.

Play 3: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/

antlion audio usb soundcard should work too.
https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card

I recommend antlion usb sound card. Play 3 can have hissing with microphone, due to side tone (hear what you speak in mic).

You can try a ground loop isolator if you want with your soundblasterx g1. or get antlion audio card for same price.

Interesting, thanks for the information. Just did a quick glance on Amazon and this comes up in their recommended. Have you used one in the past or currently that you recommend?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+dac&qid=1592248064&sr=8-3

Gamecard? What do you mean?

You mean if Logitech going to fix? I don't know but i don't think so.

You mean buying a usb soundcard going to fix your problem not being able to use headset mic with onboard? Yes probably.

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+sound+card&qid=1590696384&sr=8-3

This is what i have btw. Works for headsets with mics.

These are the soundcard and microphone I am currently using.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_eKyxEbA3G7PW1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XM69NCF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

> The other 2 laptops it should be possible?

More than possible, both are Thunderbolt 3 capable and you don't even need Thunderbolt.

> I need the bandwidth for a decent ultrawide (do not need high end gaming quality)

That is not particularly BW intensive either. Indeed, 3440 x 1440 @ 60Hz is one of the examples I use to demonstrate the bandwidth available when a non-TB, plain USB C dock is used with USB 3.0. But -- if you don't need USB 3.0 then even that doesn't matter.

So https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5N3YCD and then https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2442H0/ for more USB 2.0 ports and then any USB sound card you prefer say https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ . A ready made hub would integrate all these but the sound card would likely be not the best.

can't be sure, but easiest way to try would be a cheap usb audio adapter to test and compare the difference. Here are examples of a cheap one for testing, and a better quality one if you are looking for a full replacement:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/

My Intel NUC audio constantly had sound issues. Sound would go bad and have static. I finally got the sound blaster usb to replace it, and I couldn't be happier. Much like laptops, can't really replace the audio on a NUC.

>but nothing that's known to be good and available.

What do you mean, not good and available? What about this one? https://www.amazon.com/TROND-External-Adapter-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B07L56C28R

Ugh it says the output is only 16-bits though. . . .

Maybe I should get the Hifimediy USB DAC? The tiny one? https://hifimediy.com/product/hifimediy-tiny-usb-dac/ Or should I take the next step up to this one? https://hifimediy.com/product/sabre-dac-uae23/

Or would this be okay, or does it suck?https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=zg_bs_3015427011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WGX0JB13A2R0T4WS1Q8T

I'm not looking for anything "better" than my onboard audio jack (in terms of soundstage and frequency-response), just something that won't have background hiss/crackle and won't have latency/lag!

I think that is a ground loop. My hunch (non-expert, but I have suffered from these in the past) is that it's probably caused by the headphones being plugged into two separate devices and therefore having two distinct paths to ground.

If I'm understanding your post correctly you're plugging the headphone part of the headset into an external USB DAC and the mic part into the computer directly? What I believe this will do is basically turn the headset and DAC's cabling into an antenna picking up a continuous hum and high frequency interference from the computer. The fact it works perfectly without the mic connected would seem to confirm this.

You can get ground lift devices for the USB such as - https://www.amazon.com/GeeekPi-Isolator-ADUM3160-Isolation-Protection/dp/B07QKYYCD8/ - this particular one does not support USB 2.0 Hi Speed, but looking at the specs of the DAC, I don't think that is an issue. This might solve the problem but due to the unusual setup you're trying to run, I wouldn't guarantee it. If you can get from Amazon they have a generous return policy however...

>Or would a cheap 3.5mm to USB2.0 converter/sound card fix it? (So the mic would run into the computer via another USB port).

I don't think so as the headset would still have two paths to ground. You can try, but I have doubts.

A combined DAC/ADC should work such as - https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ (with both ports of the headset plugged into the adapter)

i can't find any actual specs about the DAC resolution in a macbook... but i suspect it's nothing you can't get out of a \~$20 usb sound card. the DAC chips are fairly cheap at a component cost level.

https://www.amazon.com/TechRise-External-Adapter-Splitter-Converter/dp/B01J7P0OGI/ $11

at this price it's not a big gamble to buy it and see if you like the sound.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ $19

24bit / 96khz DAC, for reference an audio CD sampling rate is 16bit / 44khz.

After stalking this sub for months, I finally got my budget desktop setup. I had asked here a few times how people were handling decent desktop audio while also easily getting into a headset for conference calls. Most amps or speakers with inputs only had headphone inputs, not microphone, and the single input was not TRRS or "4 pole" carrying both stereo and the microphone signal. I wanted to log my solution here for anyone else woh wants to rock but also do conference calls or game easily.

My previous solution was to use two dacs or soundcards, one plugged into speakers, one plugged into the headset, and I would use the windows audio controls to change between hardware devices. This was ok, but I would often have to restart some software for the change to take effect, notably some vidoeo games I played only queryed the sound device on startup.

My new setup>

Micca MB42X - Extremely happy with this purchase. I have a normal sized office room, they sound great. I agonized over which speakers to buy, and feel I made a good choice. I was really suprised at how much bass they have. Music sounds far better than on my corsair headset. I do not expect to want to buy a sub, but I'm in the hobby now so who can say.

Kinter K3118 - Not sure I'd be able to tell the difference between a 3118 and 2020, but I read it was good so thats what I got. The "blue ring" around the knob is not nearly as bright as I expected, it doesn't annoy me at all, and I'm easily annoyed. Love the bass and treble controls. I like that it has a power switch and is just always on, unlike other digital devices which power down after some time.

Nobsound MC1024 - The hardware switch! They have multiple models depending on if you want a slider switch, or a button, or you need separate mic/headphne or just headset cables. The one I got works for single 3.5mm headsets. This model uses a switch, which is a little small, so I may order the button version. It does what I wanted though so I'm happy enough with it for now.

Audio comes out of a soundblaster play! 3 dac (may upgrade this idk), 3.5mm to the nobsound switch, which has 3.5mm to the kinter amp, and to the headset, and lets you easily switch between the outputs. No restarting software to change from music on the speakers to gaming or work conferences.

Yes. You will want a full setup though. Especially since you're transitioning from those full sounding headphones. I went through the same thing and just having bookshelf speakers didn't cut it for me. My PC has an optical output so I have an optical cable going to a receiver. Connected to the receiver is 2 bookshelf speakers and a subwoofer.

How do you feel about the used market? I got a Pioneer receiver on Craigslist for $30. Pioneer Andrew Jones Bookshelf speakers for $40 and the Pioneer Andrew Jones Sub for $40 on Facebook Marketplace. Sounds just as good if not better than my headphone setup - Fiio M7 --> Fiio E12 --> Audio Technica ATH-M50x.

But I completely understand if you want minimal setup. If you want to experiment and just try bookshelf speakers, make sure they are powered and don't require an amp/receiver. Something like these. You will want a cable like this to connect those speakers to your PC. If you are not sure if your computer has the output you need, you can buy one of these. Or you could also buy a bluetooth receiver to connect to those speakers.

Any questions, ask away. I've done what you wanted many times over for myself and others lol Best of luck! :)

[Modular Adjacent Question]

Hey - Any tips on recording line-in video/audio to an iphone from your modular setup?

I'm using the apple camera adaptor and this USB audio dongle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N905VOY

Works fine - but it is a mono recording. I then bought this Rode adaptor, but it also records in MONO!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G9N111W

Returning it, and now I've ordered this audio dongle:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBZ38ZJ

One of the reviews says it is a stereo mic input, another one just says "no stereo mix" - but I'm going to give it a shot.

I see lots of videos with good sounds quality on this channel. What are you using? Are you getting a stereo recording?

THANKS!!