Western Digital 1TB WD Blue 3D NAND Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B

Deal link: Amazon

Thanks! Is the zotac 2070 not good? And I saw alot of people in this sub recommended this for the ssd.

WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_7OBNEbDMKPWPB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/

Will this work? I just wanna be safe with newer games utilizing nvme speeds and its only 38 dollars more for the sabrent drive.

Would this be the Western Digital equivalent to the Sabrent TLC? Trying to save some money if possible.

Agreed. SN550 1TB on sale for $95 on Amazon (URL), $15 more than its 250GB part + 1TB Seagate HDD. I can think of no bigger impovement to overall PC experience, including faster game loads, for $15.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

How does this ssd compare? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_ikWjEbE0DQQJZ I've been looking at this, which is already 109, no gift cards or anything.

A 5400rpm 1TB HDD seems awfully expensive in this day and age, not to mention slow. Instead of the two separate drives why not a (single 1TB ssd)[https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=1tb+nvme&qid=1579990270&sr=8-13]? My other suggestion would be to go with a 3600 instead of a 2600x since Zen2's IPC improvement over Zen+ is pretty significant and very beneficial in a lot of circumstances. This is assuming you can swing another $50 bucks or so into the budget.

Unless you're doing large file writes, likely you don't need a thermal solution (you probably don't have room for one).

I've had good luck with a WD Blue sata drive, used it as a Steam drive for two years now.

Amazon link

Since your original is sata, I assume that is what you need. I've also put the same drive in 3 Acer laptops in the 500meg size and kept the original very slow 1tb hard drive.

I paid $100 for 1tb ssd

If you are gaming and NVME SSD isn’t all that necessary IMO. I bought myself this nice m.2 from western digital and even a big open world game like Witcher 3 loads instantly WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LfIjFbYVT904T

not necessarily. m.2 is just the form factor/physical shape of the ssd

nvme ssds only come as m.2 ssds, they are the faster ones (though speed can vary a lot, go for tlc if it is similar priced, qlc is the budget option)

then there are both m.2 sata and 2.5 inch sata drives. the sata protocol is the limiting factor. so they all have the same max speed of around 540MBs. the wd blue is a m.2 sata for example. they cost the same as m.2 nvme ssds but aren't any faster than their 2.5 counterparts. In my opinion, that's just bullshitting customers who are tech savvy.

​

so if you buy a m.2 drive, look up if it uses nvme. avoid the m.2 sata ones. buy a intel 660p (qlc) if your budget is tight or go for a faster sabrent rocket (non-q version) if you don't know where to start

I've been using a 250 GB Samsung 840 Evo and a 2TB HDD.

My motherboard (Gigabyte Z97 UD5H black) has an open 10Gb/s M.2 slot.

Any reason not to get this drive in 1TB or 2TB capacity? Should I make it my boot drive?

That is a SATA ssd, yes it will work but they are a bit slower compared to Nvme ssds. It's noticable mostly only in games, less during simple tasks.

Here is one other only 5 dollars more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=nvme+1tb&qid=1578163714&sr=8-13

Yep, comes in M.2 2280 form factor like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT or there is also a 2.5" form factor looks like but M.2 is generally preferred

No it's not compatible. Early 2013 uses the 7+17 pin configuration and the PCI interface is slower than Late 2013 and on... not able to achieve NVMe speed.

The adapters for your model fit NGFF B keyed 2280 M.2 SATA drives.

grab something like this and here is a installation video and this is a video showing how to format a storage drive.

You brought up a fair question, so I'll be happy to answer:

The WD Blue SN550 (the NVME one, not the older "WD Blue 3D" SATA M.2 model) is a special case, as it has a proprietary controller that mitigates the lack of a standard DRAM cache and has better worst-case performance than any other DRAM-less model on the market.

US Amazon has 1tb discounted but not 2tb of this model.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=wd%2Bblue%2B2tb%2B3d%2Bnand%2Binternal%2Bssd%2Bm.2%2Bsata&qid=1597412681&sr=8-2&th=1

same price on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=WD+Blue+3D+NAND+1tb&qid=1602575356&sr=8-4

(just copy and pasted, might have referral, sorry about that)

Ideally, you'd get another NVME drive. The combo slot means it can run both SATA-based and NVME-based M.2 drives.

There's not much reason to get a SATA M.2 at the moment if you can use an NVME one, as entry level NVME drives are fairly close in cost and have better performance.

Take for example, this Western Digital drive. It's only 54 cents more expensive than its equivalent SATA drive.

There are other options, but I've only personally used WD and Samsung SSDs so can't recommend anything else from experience.

Looking at upgrades for my new Helios 300

So I just got this laptop and i'm looking at possible upgrades.
I bought the following for my last Helios and I wondered if I should just pull from that and put in the new one or get new, here is what I got.
RAM new is 2933MHz, linked kit is 2666MHz would that make a difference?
SSD this one I'm pretty sure is fine to swap out no need to by a new one.
M.2 this one I haven't used because the encasement I bought was the wrong type but would this work in the new Helios 300?

if you have any suggestions for better upgrades please let me know!

Here is what I bought. They sell smaller and larger capacity.

To replace the current ssd that holds the OS: M.2 SATA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_ZXPXFbK893KTW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

To place in the empty m2 slot next to the above sata slot: M.2 NVME https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M64QXMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_rZPXFbBYN8G29?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

To place in the empty 2.5" ssd spot: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBRHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_C0PXFb8KZDEH8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4G19X3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_20PXFbJD5MAZ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

In addition, I purchased this external enclosure to be able to still utilize the removed BIWIN SSD and can utilize the laptops USB C port with this enclosure to play games off of it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MKCG5ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_u2PXFb9Y2VP7Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Cheers! 🍻

Storage:

1x M.2 SSD slot (SATA)2x M.2 SSD Combo slot (NVMe PCIe Gen3 / SATA)

You can buy a cheaper m.2 SATA only SSD, like the WD Blue:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/

Yes, its more expensive than a 2.5" drive, but its that or an USB external drive, if its only for downloads and docs it works, but dont recommend that to install programs/games.

Or just get a Sabrent Rocket for the same price of the WD Blue and enjoy an SSD that is stupid fast:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-RKTQ-1TB/dp/B07ZZYWTBP/

Technically the next fastest would be the 970 EVO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1)

But if budget matters the WD blue counterparts would be the best price/performance ssd https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1

How would you arrange your OS and games using my build?

Hi all,

I currently have two SATA SSD's and I am planning on buying a 1 Tb M2 one next.

Which one would you put the OS on and should I just throw the 120gb in the trash?

Current Setup:

SSD 1 (120gb) - currently has windows and a few programmes on - https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=kingston+ssd+120gb&qid=1587997279&sr=8-1

​

SSD 2 (500gb) - All/most games on here - https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0A/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=wd+blue+500gb&qid=1587997358&sr=8-1

​

SSD 3 (1Tb) - Planning to buy/Recommend anything else? -

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=1tb%2Bwd%2Bblue%2Bm2&qid=1587997419&sr=8-1&th=1

​

Thanks!

First I bought 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SB2MXT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If i remember correctly it wouldn't even be recognized in one of the slots. It booted in the other.

​

Then I got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RCM6DXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

This is recognized in the other slot and i now have 2 1tb ssds (and one waiting for my next build)

Quick question

Will https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-500GB-SSD-WDS500G2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=wd%2Bblue%2Bnvme%2Bssd%2B1tb&qid=1591060855&sr=8-4&th=1 (WD Blue m.2 Sata SSD.) be compatible with the https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/ROG-CROSSHAIR-VII-HERO-WI-FI/ (ASUS Crosshair VII Hero.)

​

It says it has 2 m.2 slots but doesn't specify pcie or sata. Thank you!

So in light of quarantine I figured I'd build a pc instead of buying another console. I found what I believe to be a good build (https://techbuyersguru.com/750-budget-gaming-pc-build) for me since I don't want to spend a fortune but still want to be able to play the newest games at decent graphics. I would like to be able to order all the parts from amazon but the only problem I've run into is the SSD card Western Digital Blue 3D 500GB M.2 is sold out and I need to find a replacement but in unsure of what would work best. Any help is greatly appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=M.2&qid=1579795301&sr=8-8

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-NAND-2280SS-Internal/dp/B0784SY515/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=M.2+1tb&qid=1579795347&sr=8-14

​

I personally bought the Crucial one recently and it's done perfectly fine

Since you've never replaced any parts here is my suggestion:

1. An SSD instead of the m.2 (m.2 requires you to remove the gpu) SSD Something like the one listed above as long as it's a 2.5" solid state drive. Crucial is probably my favorite brand for hard drives.- A little more expensive but smoothest performance. Team Group is good too. There's a more economical option on Amazon called Silicon Power but I've never heard of them.

2. Get this adapter for the hard drive. Makes installation really easy. 2.5 adapter

3. SATA cable needed (goes from HD to MOBO) SATA cable

4. Last thing you'll need is a SATA power cable. I can't tell you exactly which one you will need for the build because the spec sheet does not specify the connections on the PSU. My guess is it's a non-modular power supply which means you will most likely need a splitter to run your current SATA power cable from 1 to 2 connections. It will look something like this: SATA power splitter Definitely double check this. Could also be a molex cable or something different.

Now having said all that, as I wrap up my reply I realize that may sound daunting for a 1st timer. Trust me, it's not bad at all. The hardest part is the cables. IF this build's motherboard has a slot for an m.2 which it should (again, can't tell from the spec sheet) all it would take is removing the graphics card and you wouldn't have to mess with the cables or adapters. It would look something like this m. 2

Hope that helps 😊 ✌️

This would be a much better set of parts. (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QQncFG)
You can get a much better gpu, cpu, power supply, and motherboard for that price, you just have to replace the monitor, which seems to be quite overpriced in the first place. I would recommend that with the 3700x you might want to get a cooler, and I would recommend the Noctua NH-D15 chromax Black (https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-chromax-Black-Dual-Tower-Cooler/dp/B07Y3CTQNT)

It's not incredibly necessary to upgrade the motherboard, but it's still good to do because it allows you to add more m.2 storage down the road, plus it comes with onboard wifi if you feel that's important.
I also didn't switch out the storage, but you could go with an ssd from wd blue and get twice the storage for around the same price. (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-NAND-1TB-SSD-WDS100T2B0B/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=wd+blue+ssd+1tb&qid=1587324756&s=electronics&sr=1-3)

Hope you find what you need! You can talk to me if you have more questions or need more recommendations.

​

I'm doing this more as an informational, so people who follow can learn from my... educational experience... and not repeat the same many things that aren't supported don't work. Some do... Here is what I found did work.

Server:

HPDL380p Gen8

Dual Intel 2690 CPU

64GB Ram

Dual 1200W Power supplies

Booting from M.2 Drive

P2000 NVIDIA GPU

LSI 9850-E MEGARAID card. Attached to DS4246 External Chassis and External mirrored M.2 Drive for Cachecade

DS4246 With Seagate 7E8 4Kn 8TB drives

USB 3.0 Additional Ports.

HP 10GB Ethernet Card, Connected with Cisco Twinax to Nexus 9K

HP 1GB Ports (three) connected to Three Different Ubiquity 1GB physical LAN's.

Running Plex (Current Oct 2020 Version) and

Running EMBY concurrently

Zero Issues at present. Able to handle multiple BlueRay and HD Transcodes fine.

What I learned:

M.2 Boot using using M.2 Card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JKH5VTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which the Server finds no issue with EXCEPT: You MUST connect the SATA port for the CD ROM drive to the CARD. The DL380p won't actually boot from PCI M.2 (that I can seeming make happen) This gives you the ability to use all drive slots for storage.

I added also USB 3.0 for the server to help random USB drive loads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Y7KQ7KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This was a little tricky, but if you download the latest driver (as of October 2020) there was no issues getting Windows and the Server to see the USB card.

I added the NVIDIA P2000. Why? Because unless you love to listen to the fans on the DL380 rev up when you end up transcoding movies... Why this card? Because of its ability to handle multiple streams at the same time (vs 1 or 2) being a limiting factor with many other nvidia GPUs. I've done multiple blueray transcodes.. and were doing fine.

I added the LSI 9850-E RAID Card. I can confirm with the latest (as of October 2020) firmware - You may have to update the firmware - that the HP server has no issues with the card.

I attached this to a NTAP DS4246. Running Seagate EXOS 7E8 8TB SAS drives. Note: The LSI 9850-e will need to be on newer firm ware to see the 4Kn drives. You will need the right cable ( QSFP to Mini SAS SFF-8088 DDR Cable, SFF-8436 to SFF-8088 Cable, 0.5 \~ 3 meters )

I Leveraged a SAS to SATA (SAS SFF-8088 to 4 SATA 7pin) cable attached to: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNVMKCG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and two https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SB2MXT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 M.2 drives. needed to purchase the hardware key for the 9850-E for CacheCade. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSI-MegaRIAD-CacheCade-Pro2-0-Caching-Software-LSI00290-L5-25188-04-Physical-Key/312718210687?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) I mirrored the 1TB M.2 Disks to act as front end cache for the SAS drives. I mounted it in a external DVD duplicator housing. (Which doesn't have any DVD's, just has a the power supply for miscellaneous external attachments I need on severs. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Naked-Case-11-Bay-9-Burners-SATA-CD-DVD-Duplicator-Enclosure-Case-Replicator/261027168770?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) This case, while not pretty is awesome. The Power supply has enough power connections for like anything you need to put in this case.

No errors so far from CacheCade or the fact that none of that hardware is on the support matrix for the LSI card. NOTE: You will need the correct battery (https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSI-s-BBU09-BAT1S1P-A-Cable-LSI00279-for-9265-9266-9270-9271-9285-9286/142478918404?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) NOTE: the cable for this battery!! Ugh. Also NOTE: this battery uses M2.5 (Not M2 or M3 screws. SMH) to attach to (NOT THE RAID CARD) something in your server.

and a place to put it (https://www.ebay.com/itm/LSI-BBU-BRACKET-05-REMOTE-MOUNTING-BRACKET-BOARD-BATTERY-BACKUP-UNIT-ASSEMBLY-US/333576188395?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 )

Added HP 10GB Card (https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Ethernet-10Gb-Dual-Port-530SFP-PCI-e-Adapter-652501-001-SFP/293595325009?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649) Using a Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU5M - SFP+ Cable 5 Meter Twinax Passive Cable - 37-0962-03 to Connect to my Nexus 9K Switch

you will also need a second riser card for the server. (As in this configuration all six slots are used) 662524-001 HP ProLiant DL380p G8 3-Slot PCI-e Riser Board & Cage

I think this is the sum of the issues that I ran into, it took a few weeks of troubleshooting and trying to make sure I had the correct parts. Lots of re-orders as I got lots of things that didn't work. PCI cards that the HP server refused to use correctly, etc.

I hope this helps one person follow forward with their build with a little more confidence.