AmazonBasics 4K HDMI to HDMI and Audio (RCA Stereo or Spdif) Extractor Converter (Supports Apple TV, Fire TV and Blue-Ray Players)

I have a list of the best wireless headsets with 7.1 surround sound that work for the PS4. I just want to say something very IMPORTANT, the PS5 does not have an optical port; most headset will not work with the PS5. The only way to get sound from the PS5 is through HDMI. Now the best headsets are:

• Arctis Pro Wireless
• GSP 670
• Astro A50
• Razer Thresher Ultimate
• Turtle Beach Elite 800

If I were you, I would wait for the PS5 to come out and find out how people are using these headsets. Astro is making something that costs $40 for the A50 to work with the PS5. I personally think this is a lot. Amazon has this that should work for audio with the headsets, but I would still wait since I don’t know the quality of the product.

This will solve some people's problems. Gives you an optical port again: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

> I never seen hdmi to audio out yet

Today’s your lucky day! https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ This is an in-line device, so it would operate independently from the TV.

You can get an HDMI to HDMI + audio out adapter pretty cheap. It seperates the audio for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_yhXsEbB80Q7RA

Just search "HDMI audio extractor" on Amazon, eBay, Newegg, or whatever your shop of choice is.

Here is just one I found after a 10 second search on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

The projector doesn't have audio out that you can run to the sound system? The picture in the link is fuzzy, but it looks like your ACER has it on the right.

If not, I'd try something like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

You bought a headset that had a specific workaround to even be compatible with the Xbox One X. What did you expect? Also, they will work. Just buy a device that splits the audio to an optical port from hdmi.

AmazonBasics 4K HDMI to HDMI and Audio (RCA Stereo or Spdif) Extractor Converter (Supports Apple TV, Fire TV and Blue-Ray Players) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_qwzMEbXTXTMTW

Hmm..that is strange, my parents have their 2018 Roku Express setup this way and get 5.1 sound. It may be that the TV only outputs 2.0 through the optical out.

You could try a product like this to put between your Roku and TV. I'm assuming that the stick would be able to interface with that with no issues.

Good. I was going to suggest something like this next, to extract the audio from HDMI.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

I have no idea if it would work, but you could easily return it.

It's possible your source was just stereo.

Thanks. I think the problem will be solved by using an audio extractor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRWYN4R?pf_rd_r=2HQEA3HNJN5CFTVX0G8W&pf_rd_p=6fc81c8c-2a38-41c6-a68a-f78c79e7253f)

I can't use a vga cable because I can't change it. The projector is fixed in the ceiling several meters high.

I’m afraid that means you don’t have an analog output on your TV to use with your receiver. You could either update your receiver to something with HDMI/ARC or get an HDMI audio de-embedder like this:

AmazonBasics 4K HDMI to HDMI and Audio (RCA Stereo or Spdif) Extractor Converter (Supports Apple TV, Fire TV and Blue-Ray Players) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_A2mIFbGF17DYY

Note that this device extracts audio from your hdmi source, not the output of the TV. So if you have more than one HDMI source, or if you use your TVs built in apps and features that require audio, this device won’t work.

Something like this

AmazonBasics 4K HDMI to HDMI and Audio (RCA Stereo or Spdif) Extractor Converter (Supports Apple TV, Fire TV and Blue-Ray Players) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8P4GFb6XFXEZ0

It takes the hdmi signal and splits the audio out separate but passes through the hdmi to an out port.

So it goes Roku > Audio Extractor > projector & soundbar

You can plug your laptop into a TV with HDMI and use the optical output from there. Or maybe use an audio extractor like this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R

Most higher quality TVs have an optical out that you could use.

The alternative is a box like this one. Though if you do buy an adapter, check that it supports everything you may need, like resolution, HDR or higher refresh rates.

You get audio from the TV via optical, just not surround, right? I believe the way you have it set up should send the encoded audio signal to the preamp for decoding. Provided the surround format from the source material is indeed able to be decoded by the Violet and that there's nothing your missing in the settings, it could potentially be something with the TV not sending the fully encoded signal out. I don't know enough about TVs to say whether that's even a thing, but a cheap way to check is trying an HDMI splitter like this Amazon Basics one. That should extract the audio from hdmi so that you can send that separate from the video and bypass the TV connection altogether.

You can use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&qid=1580041826&sprefix=hdmi+audio&sr=8-1

Does your amp have optical?

You can use something like this. It even has 3.5mm stereo out: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&qid=1585598254&sr=8-3

Not really advisable. You'd increase the lag, and your lipsync would be more noticeable.

TOSLINK inherently has buffer lag though the transceivers, adding another conversion step through some sort of wireless transmission will add a little more delay, which can become rather annoying.

I'm assuming you're running the HDMI signal to the projector from your source, and want to avoid an optical cable from the projector back to the soundbar?

The only other way I could think of would be to use an HDMI splitter / extractor at your source, keep the existing HDMI video cable to your projector, and run a short TOSLINk cable to your soundbar.

Just an example - I've never used any of these devices, so this isn't a recommendation for the brand...

• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

Use an HDMI audio splitter.

AmazonBasics 4K HDMI to HDMI and Audio (RCA Stereo or Spdif) Extractor Converter (Supports Apple TV, Fire TV and Blue-Ray Players) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZdNiEbSM214W5

Depends entirely on how elaborate you want to get, and what your budget is.

If you're going for super cheap, you could use something like this, and plug the hdmi output into your monitor and the audio output into a pair of cheap bookshelf speakers (or headphones), or you could go the more traditional route and get an inexpensive receiver and use that to drive proper speakers.

I'm guessing the first option can probably be done for under $100, speakers included (though keep in mind you get what you pay for).

The receiver option likely will require a receiver in the $250-300 range, and a pair of inexpensive mains. The minimum to do that option reasonably well is probably around $400 total plus or minus if you research well, but could easily be double that if you want high quality speakers. And of course the prices go up considerably from there. Some people spend thousands for this sort of thing.

You'll almost certainly get higher quality audio with the receiver option, but kind of depends on what you're trying to accomplish here. Bare bones functionality or high quality audio?

Also, keep in mind that a decent pair of headphones can usually radically out perform an equivalently priced pair of speakers when we're talking about lower end gear. And by decent, I mean headphones typically in the $100-200 price range to start.

Also, you can always get the bare bones setup for now and then save up for a nicer upgrade later.

Hope this helps.

Devices like this exist and are cheap, but not so much with multiple input ports.

What are the make and model of your TV? It's possible your TV can just do itself, if it has a headphone jack or RCA audio output. Even if it doesn't, it probably has at least one or two features that you could use to accomplish this more effectively.

It looks like you’re correct and that Onkyo doesn’t in fact separate hdmi audio and video. I couldn’t find a setting for it in the manual anywhere. I’m certain that hdmi audio extractors are a thing but that would be a question for someone else.

Edit: Something like this should work.

Would require 2 or 3 hdmi cables and an optical cable.

I had success with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

The dock has USB ports, right? So a USB headphone DAC would work if the Switch supports the USB Audio device class. I don't know if it does.

This is the cheapest one I found, no promise on sound quality: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/

Otherwise, there are HDMI audio extractors that split an HDMI with audio signal into HDMI and separate audio, like

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

You can get an HDMI audio extractor like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRWYN4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug your Chromecast into that, and then connect the HDMI to your TV. From the stereo output of the extractor, connect it to a bluetooth transmitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Adapter-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B07V9RKGK7/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=bluetooth+transmitter&qid=1583355856&sr=8-9

It's a bit of a daisy chain of adapters, but it will work.

EDIT:

Okay, so I'm a bit confused. Perhaps I'm reading wrong and you want to send the sound from the digital TV channels that are playing through the TV via the chromecast? That's not possible as the Chromecast cannot act as an input device.

1) Use Optical Out

2) Use headphones on controller

3) Get a box that extracts the audio signal from HDMI and gives you a 3.5mm jack and connect it with a pair of speakers.

I haven't used it very much, but this should do the trick. https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

However, if you're planning on adding more devices inside your cab (PC, Wii, Fire Stick etc..) and want to hide them and use an HDMI Switch in the future, some switches already have audio out on them. My old switch I had sitting around didn't, so I had to add the extractor.

Amazon basics hdmi to spdif works good

But would this matter if I am putting this splitter in place? I guess it could still potentially kill that HDMI audio out prior to the splitter causing the splitter to basically become useless?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRWYN4R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm expecting it, specially after they are making a big deal of audio.

But there are hdmi "audio extractors" and switches that can split out optical audio from HDMI w/5.1 support

example: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R/

I have been using the Scarlett Solo for a while, but have been thinking of upgrading to get more inputs and outputs. Specifically, I want to be able to route my Nintendo Switch audio through my interface so I can hear it through my studio monitors. To accomplish this, I am considering getting the 2nd gen Scarlett 6i6, as well as the following:

HDMI/Audio splitter

RCA/Coax cable

The crappy diagram I drew above shows basically what I hope to accomplish. I want to split the Switch's audio off with the splitter shown, and route out of the SPDIF OUT on the splitter, and into the SPDIF IN on the interface with the cable shown. This audio signal will remain stereo and come out of my studio monitors as an appropriate stereo signal, right? I also want to use the ins and outs on the interface as labeled. Is there a problem with my plan? Or a better solution?

Finally, what's the deal with the Focusrite Control software? I understand it's necessary in order to control several functions of the newer Scarlett interfaces (I hate that by the way. Wish everything could just always be knobs...) Is the software necessary to run the interface in general? With my solo right now it works perfectly fine without any software open and I like it that way. Can you use the 6i6 normally without the software running, and just open up Focusrite Control if you need to mess with some things?

Thank you in advance for the help! Sorry if this isn't a good place for this question. I just want to make sure I don't make any mistakes before buying this stuff.

No you don't: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Audio-Stereo-Extractor-Converter/dp/B07KRWYN4R

Also, at least certain headsets will be getting a firmware update to enable audio over USB: https://twitter.com/ASTROGaming/status/1245033123185819654

I don't see anything that can do this directly. All 5.1 audio extractors seem to use S/PDIF. Here's a cheap one with good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R

Then, to connect it to your PC, you can use a DAC like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126U4C1Y/. To connect it to your motherboard, from my understanding you'll need two adapters like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ and two of something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081SDKHI/.

A more direct, and possibly cheaper, route would be to connect a SPDIF input to your computer. I can't actually find one, though.

There is also quite possibly a better solution than either of those. I'm much more experienced with the Switch than with audio.