AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet

You could just get an adapter. Is this what you need?

Or not even a seperate adapter. You can buy a cable that has RCAs on one end and 3.5 mm on the other.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

Then use the button on the front to switch between the two different inputs.

You can use a different cable to go from rca to aux https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Rca+To+Aux&qid=1605068592&sr=8-3

The Yamaha amps would work well, and 50€ is a great price for those amp. The cord you need is one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_2

Another route which may be easier would be to find a microphone that is compatible with a phone or laptop then plug it into that. Then you go audio out at line level from the phone/laptop into the speaker using a stereo RCA to 3.5mm male cable like this AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet

The simplest way would to get a 3.5 mm to RCA adapter cable like this one. Plug the rca ends into the back of the subwoofer and the other end into either the headphone jack or rear speaker out on your computer.

Thank you! So if I got an Aux to RCA cable, that would work for my audio? (example: AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/)

Turntables, phono preamps, and almost all vintage audio components output sound with RCA cables. For you to hook up your speakers with this setup, you’d need an adapter cable similar to this to go out the preamp and into your speakers. Personally, however, I would heavily recommend investing in traditional speakers.

No sweat.

You will need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=headphone+to+rca&qid=1587316153&sr=8-1

That'll run from your headphone (3.5mm) port into the amp.

There may be a better method using some USB audio outputs, but I'm not familiar enough with Mac to speak to that.

You need a cable like this. Plug it into one of the CD inputs

One option would be to buy a 3.5mm to RCA cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_zZ1ZFbFNXK53F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Connect the jack end to the headphone output on your TV, connect the RCA end to Line 1 in on your HK system.

This won't be optimal in terms of sound quality though. What are the model numbers of your TV and sound system? I'll probably be able to help more if I know that.

Sorry, so i connect the splitter to pc, my stereo speakers (with one output 3.5 mm cord) to one end of the splitter, and how do i attach from the sub to the splitter exactly? I feel like i need a 3.5mm to 2 rca cable, dont I? Just wanna make sure im not messing up before i buy anything

But you can use the HDMI to VGA's audio out for the receiver. You can connect the fire stick to the ViewHD then to the HDMI to VGA. Then the VGA can go to the p projector and the audio out 3.5mm can go to your receiver. You can use something like the cable below if your receiver does not have 3.5mm input.

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_xOFIEb5NJKPJX

I assume you adjusted the gain, right? A LC2i will have a hotter output than that PAC, and will have to compensate through the gain.

Does it sound as loud as the Lexus standing in front of the subs with the trunk open?

I'm trying to rule out your headunit-LOC-amp setup being your problem. Do the easiest test first. Go buy a RCA headphone adapter (you can buy them at walmart, etc also) , plug it into your amp, and play the bassiest tune you are familiar with. You might have to bump the gain up.

Ya 3.5mm to rca cable from pc, 3.5mm to rca from amp to sub or hi level speaker wire inputs

Probally came with One

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-cable-adaptador-pulgadas-macho/dp/B01D5H8KO2

Also called just a 3.5 mm jack instead of aux/mini.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mini+jack+to+rca&qid=1585775973&sprefix=mini+jack+to+&sr=8-3

You could have one 3.5mm cables from each of your sources--computer, Switch, PS4, Smart TV (so you could get audio from it even when not displaying gaming computer). You may need RCA to 3.5mm cables like this depending on the connectors on each source and the connectors on your speakers. The mixer also has a convenient and separate headphone jack. There's a total of 5 inputs, you will be using 4 for now, but you could connect your phone to the 5th one if you want--for music, etc.

The Loop In and Loop Out are for connecting these mixers together to get more inputs. You wouldn't use those.

You need RCA cables to connect the DAC to the AMP. Right to Right, Left to Left.

If you want to use your amp without the DAC, you can use a 3.5mm to RCA cable (Example). Plug the 3.5mm end into your PC mobo headphone/speaker out

3.5mm headphone to dual RCA cable from your tvls headphone to your party chain l/r

Get a 1/8 plug to RCA left and Right cable. Plug it into the headphone jack of your PC and the other ends into the tape input. One of these.

Why do you need a Y adapter? Just a plain single RCA to 3.5 cable to connect the Magni to the Klipsch. Y adapters are for driving two devices from one source. Unless your doing something you didn't mention you don't need any y cables.

This is the type of cable you need: RCA to 3.5 Audio Cable.

What about a RCA to 3.5mm for line in to your 5? Something like this?

Yeah I’m planning to buy this enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_delete_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Any recommendation for the wireless adapter? Didn’t think of that route and may just keep the laptop in that case...If this option works; I’ll keep the laptop and the ssd inside of it for now. I’ll get the external enclosure after if I decide to abandon the laptop or something down the line

That cable won't work. You want this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2

Hmm, from images of old TX-15 receivers on eBay, I'm not seeing any "DIGITAL IN." So I'd start by going with the suggestion to use the TV's headphone output.

Since the OP is self-described as "not good with tech," here are specifics:

Run a cable like this from the 3.5mm headphone output jack on the side of the TV into the tape input jacks labeled PLAY on the back of the TX-15. (If you already have a long-enough stereo RCA cable, you can use an adapter like this.)

Once the cables are hooked up, push the TAPE MONITOR button on the front of the TX-15. The first time you do this, make sure the volume level of the TX-15 is set low, to avoid blowing out your speakers. Adjust the TV volume to get a strong enough output so that you can get decent sound levels from your TX-15.

> All it has is a digital in and an analog in

what are the connectors of the digital in and the analog in of your soundbar?

if the analog is RCA, just get this cable, 3.5mm into the TV, and RCA into the soundbar:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1592958515&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMllFWVhCMFRFVzQ2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzE4MzA4RlJDWU8yVVlSODJRJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2OTYwMjMyOFZINDYwNUwzU1NVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

A simple RCA to 3.5mm adapter is all you need. In the "video out" section of the TV, plug the red white RCA cables in there and then plug the 3.5mm end into the speaker.

The JBL flip is pretty bad for a TV, I would strongly consider something better. Even something like the $99 Edifier R1280 would be a huge improvement over the JBL.

I'm not 100% if that cable would work, but it should (it looks like this, right?). Plug the red and white into their respective colors on the back of the amp; use the left side pair, when viewed from the back. Also, they're labeled "SE input"

If it doesn't work, grab one that's made for audio like this. Doesn't have to be anything fancy (for short runs under a couple meters/yards), just make sure it looks like it won't fall apart

Edit: minor corrections

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=3.5mm+to+RCA&qid=1592869409&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExR0MwS09DSVNRVFVFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjc1MDkyREZXWE42SElUTDJGJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2OTYwMjMyOFZINDYwNUwzU1NVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

\^Buy one of these.Connect the headphone jack to the green audio port on the back of your PC. Connect the red and white ends to the "input" on the back of one of the speakers, then use the included speaker wire, or any bare speaker wire, to run between the two speakers.

Sweet, I can't wait to get everything hooked up! My bad, it is 3.5mm! I am ignorant of terms and have always referred to 3.5mm as AUX. I have this guy on the way - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D5H8KO2

Here's the TV I have on the way to hook it all up to :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07M8D8JDK

The problem is the sound signals are incompatible. It's like you yelling at a guy with his hearing aid all the way up.... The mic in is specifically made to work with a microphones signal. As the pre Poster already said, get a RCA to 3.5mm jack cable and connect to your tablets/PC/Phone out or get a USB to RCA adapter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-U-Control-UCA222-Ultra-Low-Interface/dp/B0023BYDHK

Nothing fancy but you can use that to get a proper line in signal from your computer or with a USB adapter from your phone without the devices amp interfering. It also allows you to capture cassettes on your computer in the future.

Just some ideas to think about.... The cheapest and easiest is the RCA to 3.5mm cable. See example:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=rca+to+3.5mm&qid=1584421874&sprefix=rca+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFXRFRUUzIyR0tQNjcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5NjEyMzAzS1JFTlBYVTNVM1I1JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2OTYwMjMyOFZINDYwNUwzU1NVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Good luck!! And nice deck!!!👍👍

Get a HDMI audio extractor to bypass the monitor.

Connect PS4 into that and output to the monitor.

On the extractor ARC should be disabled and the audio format set to 2.0 (stereo).

You can use the 3.5mm headphone jack or get RCA phono to 3.5mm cable to connect to the soundbar.

If the drivers are damaged but still have intact coils, the line level audio from the phone will not be enough to expose any issues. It will be so quiet that you may not be able to hear anything.

Chances are, they probably work. Speakers can take a LOT of abuse before they die. If you have a multimeter, just check the resistance between positive and negative on each speaker. It should be within \~1-3 Ohms of the rating printed on the speaker. If it's 0 or Infinite, your woofer could be blown. If it's as reported, it's a safe bet they are perfectly fine. I've never blown a tweeter before, even under massive stress, so I'd assume that any properly designed speaker wouldn't have a blown tweeter unless someone physically damaged it or drove it with far too much power (in which case the woofer would also probably be destroyed). Also, as a side note, a poked dome will not totally destroy the driver. It will considerably harm it's performance, but it's more than good enough for an entry level system.

Chances are, due to their age, they might have a bit of coil rub, but it will still be usable. To see if there is coil rub, gently push the cone of the woofer in from the center (AVOID poking the dustcap in at all costs and keep the force you are applying as straight as possible). If you hear a scratching sound, you have coil rub. To correct it, remove the woofer, turn it 180 degrees and reinsert it. Coil rub is generally caused from the voice coil sagging over time, so chances are, a 180 degree flip will correct it. Over time the heat from operation will cause it to gradually shift to it's original position.

For the amp, they are all compatible with all speakers (as long as the impedance is within spec), but definitely go with the AX-596. I personally swear by Yamaha, and the AX-596 seems to have plenty of power, and very low distortion. You will probably get good use out of it for many years, especially if you decide to get nicer speakers down the line. (Also, audio quickly becomes an addiction, so trust me when I say you probably will end up getting nicer speakers. Just from personal experience.) Chances are, it works fine as well, but I'd definitely bring a multimeter and make sure that the terminals aren't putting out a high DC-voltage when running (with no input). DC blows speakers. You want the voltage offset to be below +/-1 volt. Any higher or lower than that means that you will have issues down the line, and way higher or lower than that means that the amp has totally failed.

You will not need any other accessories except for a Y-Cable to get your phone to play through the speakers. The signal chain that you wrote is correct. If you want to listen to other mediums like vinyl, cassettes, or CDs, you will have to buy more equipment, but generally that stuff can be found pretty cheaply if you look in the right places.

Here is the manual for the AX-596 in case you need it.

If you have any other questions, lmk.

Get these and decide if you want to keep investing in upgrades.. These are affordable and will play your records with a soundbar.

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Phono-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier/dp/B00025742A/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=phono+preamp&qid=1582947790&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=y+cable&qid=1582947886&sr=8-3

Y cable to plug in from phono Preamp out to Sound bar AUX input.. Zaz y ZAZ..

Your "Y" cable is the red/white plugs on one end and a headphone jack on the other? The 3.5mm headphone jack is what you mean bu "Aux port" I assume.

It should still be stereo, the 3.5mm jack can handle stereo sound

Amazon basics "Y" cable is listed as being able to handle stereo: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2

You can use a 3.5mm stereo to RCA converter and connect from the PC to any of the dvd/sat/dock inputs. Something like this maybe?

> Ok, here's where it gets a little more complicated: those are "powered" bookshelf speakers. So they don't need a receiver for power. That's a pretty popular type of speaker nowadays, but I don't have much experience with them. > > So let me give you this website: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php > > This is a forum that talks about all kinds of speakers. If you're looking at a speaker online, there's a good chance it's already been talked about on that website. I've never heard of Edifier speakers, so maybe you could find more information at Audio Karma.

Which one of the rca cables am i looking for? I have two links right here.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8PQ0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1E4I6IRQLUG1Y&dchild=1&keywords=stereo+rca+cable&qid=1587178057&s=electronics&sprefix=stereo+rca%2Celectronics%2C202&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1E4I6IRQLUG1Y&dchild=1&keywords=stereo+rca+cable&qid=1587178057&s=electronics&sprefix=stereo+rca%2Celectronics%2C202&sr=1-4

Thank you! Can you confirm these are the cables I need?

1. 2x AmazonBasics XLR Male to Female Microphone Cable - 6 Feet, Black ($5.94 each)
2. 2x Cable Matters (1/8 Inch) 3.5mm to XLR Cable (XLR to 3.5mm Cable) Male to Male 10 Feet ($10.99 each) <-- this doesn't seem correct
3. AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet ($8.99)

Thank you for recommending the Yamaha MG10XU. I want a set-it-and-forget-it mixer as much as possible so that I can just plug in whatever I need to the mixer and never touch it again. Will the Yamaha MG10XU do that for me? Thanks!

Yeah, it has a built-in preamp which will bring it to line level for speakers. From there it just has rca outputs. Which you could plug into an amp, a sound bar, or even most Bluetooth speakers.

This is a “renewed” LP120, a new one runs $250 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZPDS2P8

RCA to mini cable. This will connect to any speaker with a line in - most BT speakers, some soundbars. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2

RCA to RCA cable. This will connect to some soundbars and all amps/hifi setups. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8P0G

Ok; I am going to say something a little crazy. Build a mono system. I think you can build a better mono system for that price than a stereo one. Many bluetooth speakers like a UE boom are effectively mono anyway. Buy a single JBL LSR305 for around $100; then buy some kind of streaming player like the (discontinued) chromecast audio or amazon echo. You can get various bluetooth receivers but wifi streamers is preffered over bluetooth for the home.

So your device to rca with a cable like this then you just need to combine the right and left channels; you can use a simple RCA Y cable. And then convert to 1/4 inch with one of these.

This way you can buy a second LSR305 and some different cables and you've got stereo in the future. A really good mono speaker is better than terrible stereo speakers.

I have a set of these speakers in the kids room. There shouldn't be any extra gear that you need. I don't really understand why you would be recommended to buy a bunch of extra gear. My current setup connects these directly to a laptop with only cables and it works fine. I purchased a pair of 1/4 inch to RCA adapters and then used an rca to headphone cable. You could also use a 1/4 inch to headphone, as you sound like you have and it would work largely the same. These links are examples and not exact products I've purchased.

Later, I wanted to add in easier volume control and source switching, so I bought a Schiit Sys off Craigslist ($50 new). This allowed me to use add in a tuner for some sweet radio background music, have a volume knob for both and a button to change between them.

Now, to your specific situation. You should have everything you need right there. Those speakers are individually powered and don't take anything besides an unamplified signal to work. Your computer should do that fine. I suspect a bad cable. That's the cheapest and easiest thing to test. Make sure you are plugging it into the correct port on the computer. There are several headphone ports on the back of a desktop computer, but only one is typically audio out. Its green, usually. If you change to know-good cables, and all of your connections are set up properly, then I would suspect there is something wrong with the speakers themselves.

I don't see anything that can do this directly. All 5.1 audio extractors seem to use S/PDIF. Here's a cheap one with good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRWYN4R

Then, to connect it to your PC, you can use a DAC like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126U4C1Y/. To connect it to your motherboard, from my understanding you'll need two adapters like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ and two of something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081SDKHI/.

A more direct, and possibly cheaper, route would be to connect a SPDIF input to your computer. I can't actually find one, though.

There is also quite possibly a better solution than either of those. I'm much more experienced with the Switch than with audio.

Your active speaker appears to have White/Red RCA inputs for line-level audio. Active means that it has a power amplifier built-in, so it can be connected directly to the lime-green audio output from your computer using a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2

The Edifier R1280T set consist of one active speaker and one passive speaker. The active speaker has the stereo amplifier for the two speakers built in. To power the passive speaker, the active one is connected with speaker wires.

You can route theses speaker wires into the high level input of the subwoofer and then (with additional speaker wires) from the high level output to the passive speaker.

I recommend the 10" Dayton subwoofer, the 8" one doesn't really play all that deep. Sadly, the SUB-1000 is currently out of stock at Parts Express.

You can connect the R1280T with the included aux-RCA cable. The aux jack is sometimes called headphone jack. You can feed the speaker with anything, that also can be connected to wired headphones/earbuds. I recommend you replace the included cable with an after-market one, simply because the included one often fails after some use.

So besides the speakers and the subwoofer you need some wires, to connect it all. Something likes this will do the job:

https://www.parts-express.com/rca-ah1850r-18-awg-speaker-wire-50-ft--100-131

https://www.amazon.com/50ft-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Connecting/dp/B000CQCH1C/

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

If you want to go with new I would try something like this:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/sony-2-0-ch-stereo-receiver-with-bluetooth-black/6187501.p?skuId=6187501 (this one is also on Amazon for around the same price)

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

You might need this foe your chromecast

AmazonBasics 3.5mm to 2-Male RCA Adapter Audio Stereo Cable - 8 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_LNj0Fb0RZXWS7

If you actually want to control the stereo with Google Assistant this should work.

BroadLink RM4 Mini IR Universal Remote Control, Smart Home Automation Wi-Fi Infrared Blaster for TV Air Conditioner STB Audio, Works with Alexa, Google Home, IFTTT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZSF46BX/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_rLj0FbKGNSV5V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to go used try shopgoodwill.com seaech for audio then filter for home audio and then radios and receivers. Look for ones that have phono inputs.

I would still go with the same speakers at that price they are hard to beat.

If you can find ones with phono inputs use this

Pyle Phono Turntable Preamp - Mini Electronic Audio Stereo Phonograph Preamplifier with RCA Input, RCA Output & Low Noise Operation Powered by 12 Volt DC Adapter (PP444) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ1TTQ/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_bVj0FbHYWXHXT

Ask away

Sound like you need a receiver. You're going to have more inputs and be able to switch easily between them with a remote. I have experience with this one from yamaha, but it would seem it's currently unavailable.

If it's for stereo, and bluetooth is fine for you, maybe the Sony STRDH190 could work. You would plug
(1) your projector audio out to an rca input using jack to rca (from what you've sent, the audio out of your projector seems to be a jack)
(2) your turntable to the phono input (I'm guessing the pro-ject doesn't have an integrated phono preamp)
(3) your iphone to the receiver using bluetooth
Then speakers cable from receiver to your speakers.

If you are planning to add a sub, maybe you should look into av receivers. This Denon does everything you want and has wifi. Then you have these ones from Sony and Yamaha, but they don't have phono so you will have to purchase a phono preamp like this one from pro-ject.

You're getting quite a bit of advice here. I'll break it down for you.

There are two main options when deciding on what you want. You can get a pair of powered speakers, which would be speakers with the amp inside of them, or a pair of passive speakers, where you will need a separate amplifier.

There are plenty of good options, regardless of which you go with, at this price point.

The DAC in your computer is probably good enough.

I'll break it down with your specific questions now.

> Do I go with a combo DAC/amp, two separate units, or would I be fine with my mobo's DAC?

You'd most likely be fine with the DAC on your mobo. However, if you hear any noise that isn't supposed to be there, it is most likely caused by the DAC, since there is quite a bit of electrical interference in the case. You can always add one later, so don't worry about it now. If you need one in the future, you can get a cheap one like this, or if you want one that looks nicer, one like this.

> I'm hoping to float around the $150 range, but I also understand that a big perk of this setup's style is the ability to upgrade specific components as needed.

Passive systems are much easier to upgrade than powered systems, so I would personally go with a passive system.

> I don't have many must-have requirements, but I would love to be able to switch between my headset and speakers with ease.

This could be quite difficult. You'd need a device to switch between the two, and then you'd need an amplifier for the headphones. I think your best bet is to forgo this for now, and add it in later unfortunately.

So, to meet your needs, I'd go with the following:

SMSL SA50. I've got a bunch of these amplifiers. It is small and will have plenty of power to fill your room.

Micca MB42X. These speakers are fantastic for the money. Very clean overall. The only problem is that they sacrifice bass for midrange clarity. They've got bass, but they won't be shaking your room. If you want something a bit different, the Edifier P12 are a good option as well. They have a bit more bass, and the top end is rolled off a bit to make them sound more pleasant, rather than super detailed. They've still got detail though, don't worry.

To hook this stuff up, you'll need speaker cable as well as an RCA cable.

So, it will go PC > RCA cable > SMSL amplifier > speaker cable > speakers

Let me know if you've got any more questions, I'm happy to help!

Here's my parts: HDMI mini to HDMI - no link, but it was the canadakit dual pack

bluetooth mini keyboard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9J8NG4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

cpu cooler - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV1LLWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

joysticks - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QRRLCKD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LCD board - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZVPTRSD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

stereo cable adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H8KO2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

power for marquee - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GD4ZQRS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

bare wire connector for amp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0813BQJWD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

amp w/ power supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pi power supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W8XHMJZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

for the sound side, you will want to see what you have to do for your amp. I didn't want to cut my wires so that's why I went with the above. I want to be able to cleanly go back to factory set up if I ever fancy it.

A final note, I won't convert my cab until this weekend, so I can't promise I'm perfect here.