ARCTIC MX-4 (4 Grams) - Thermal Compound Paste, Carbon Based High Performance, Heatsink Paste, Thermal Compound CPU for All Coolers, Thermal Interface Material

Alright..I have a Dell g7 17 (I7 9750h, RTX 2070 Max Q, 16 gb dd4 ram, 144 hertz ips display) closing near the 1 year mark.

The first time I had the laptop it went to 100 degrees, however, it didn't turn off. Here's what you'll need to do, considering the G3 models are lower tiered (as is their associating build quality).

1) Buy a laptop cooling pad, it doesn't even need to be functional, just something for airflow really. Airflow is your best friend when dealing with gaming laptops.

2) Download throttle stop and undervolt, if successful you can see a staggering 10 degree drop off point. This will help long term with your cpu. If you're having the boxes greyed out, try going to your bios > bios defaults (if this doesn't work, revert your bios to an earlier version.) set your under-volt to -125 (Cache) and the Core (-125), go upwards to -140 if you can.

3) Diassemble your laptop, take off the cover. Look at the dell manuals for specific diagrams on how to take it apart. Do some check-ins, making sure everything is okay. Then you want to repaste. (use artic https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Repaste+cpu&qid=1607003833&sr=8-6). Only recommended if you have experience with pcs, be prepared to deal with stripped screws, dell loved to fuck you over that way.

4) If you're still in the return window, return it. Later on you won't be able to, so its a decision you'll have to make pretty quickly.

Wow. I'm on BIOS 1.17.1!

I might bump my Turbo Boost Power settings back up to where you are then.

Repasting is easy. I had never done it before either. I just watched some YT videos. I'm glad I did it. All you need are the torx and philips screwdrivers to take the back cover and the heat sink off, some q-tips and isopropyl alcohol to clean the CPU and GPU dies and the back of the heat sink and a thermal paste of your choice. I used Arctic MX-4 and it definitely made a difference. The DELL paste job was a mess.

So a couple of things that have really helped me, apply thermal paste (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_YGmQFbG55B17D) to the threads on the nozzle and the heat break and make sure you torque it up while the heater block is hot.

You can buy the MX-4 if you want. Here’s an even cheaper link from Amazon. Seems to be exactly the same:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07L9BDY3T/ref=psdcmw_2998409011_t1_B0795DP124

I really struggle to suggest you to bring it to a pc repair guy or something. Follow me We know for sure that the problem is the cooler right? Well There are 3 possible reasons of why that is: - The pump isn't pumping - The fan isn't spinning or is obstructed - The cooler isn't mounted properly

In the first case there isn't much to do for an AIO (all in one, referred to the radiator + block + water), so just buy a new one.

In the second case, try to clean the fan, check if it is being obstructed by something. If the fan isn't spinning, check if the cable that comes out of it is connected, you might fix the issue without spending a dollar.

If the fan is spinning and you can hear the pump, then you are lucky and the issue is just the CPU not making proper contact with the block. This is the best case scenario, you will need to buy some thermal paste (ARTIX MX-4, one of the best thermal compounds out there), unmount the cooler block by removing the four screws on the motherboard, reapply the paste and mount the cooler back.

Ps.: I spent 20 minutes writing this as clear as possible, please at least read it even if you don't want to do it.

Ps².: I will write this again on the main thread, please don't report as spam

Bye from Italy Alatrix

How about ARCTIC MX-4 ?

Something's wrong with that listing. This one is also 4 grams and cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1604250468&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Looked up the thermal paste for u. Here is the Amazon link for it. Might actually take my mini apart and replace it just for funzies

ARCTIC MX-4 (4 Grams) - Thermal Compound Paste, Carbon Based High Performance, Heatsink Paste, Thermal Compound CPU for All Coolers, Thermal Interface Material https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L6qJFbW8JA4YK

You can use the preapplied paste, but I do agree that getting better paste is advisable. Reviews have shown lower temperatures with better paste. It’s not expensive. It’s good to have in case you have to reapply for some reason.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_llvVFbYVWV8K5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

You want paste on your cpu it's what allows the cooler to have heat transfer otherwise you will fry it or start a fire buy some half decent paste and put a pea size in the middle of the cpu and install the cooler it will flatten it out by itself but if its on the pins themselves try like Neuralcarrot710 with a tooth pick .https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-0-14-edici%C3%B3n-actual/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1597718657&sr=8-4

HY510 looks like crap / generic thermal paste.

I recommend you get Arctic MX-4.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=HY510&qid=1607892412&s=electronics&sr=1-4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LF66ZSV/

8 grams (double) for $1 less. And the 4g version is usually $8.

This is not even close to a deal, chief.

Could be poor quality or application of thermal compound, it should sit between 65C-75C even with the different variables like ambient air temps. You can see a teardown of the Gigabyte 2080 Super here if you're interested in re-doing the thermal paste yourself:

https://youtu.be/8qpf2NcCIfY

​

I recommend Arctic MX-4 2019 8-year thermal paste, if you don't have any on hand.
https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9BDY3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UYTTDO6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me check the model real quick.

EDIT: CUH-7215B

Big bottleneck by the way for RTX 3070 and 3600. If you have money definitely upgrade the CPU. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition is great for the 3600 and other mid-range CPUs. Just make sure to get a better thermal paste. I recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=arctic+mx-5&qid=1604963267&sr=8-4.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Conductonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B01EO2V332 5g for 43bucks. 8.60 per gram.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T 4g for 8.85. $2.21 per gram.

both reputable brands with the arctic not being best possible but without any real quirks that would bite sony in the ass in a year or two.

liquid metal is less than 4x the cost per gram.

above pricing includes packaging and the applicator which sony doesnt need and would make up a big chunk of the production cost. wholesale on both in the volumes sony buys it in is likely under a dollar a gram. 80cents vs 20cents is still +cents not +dollars.

>Okay, cool. Before I purchase anything, how confident are you that replacing the cooler would improve things? I'd rather not spend the money/deal with remounting the cooler if it isn't likely to solve the issue. If you think it does have a good chance of helping, I would also need to buy more thermal paste, right?

If your CPU temperature after three CB runs is over 80 degrees, then a new cooler will help. Although I also suspect that you've lost the silicon lottery to some extent as well. As far as new paste goes, it certainly can't hurt. The new cooler will come with some applied (like the Wraith), but the stock paste is usually not very good.

This is widely considered the "standard" CPU thermal paste: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9BDY3T?linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1. Once again, it's not amazing, but its relatively cheap and gets the job done.

If your CPU performance doesn't improve at all after installing these, I would return the aftermarket cooler and RMA the CPU.

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T

Just a dab will do it with this. I did my ps4 too when I was trying to fix the disc drive.

I used the wd40 contact cleaner a qtip and a little flat plastic piece to clean it off https://www.amazon.com/Company-300554-Specialist-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B084VP9JJK

I got this set https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3CHLLC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I used this thermal paste https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9BDY3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I got the 4g of paste but had a lot left over so the 2g should be fine.

Well, I do have a gaming laptop, but I first looked at that one since was down to $7.99 from $22 at the time of posting (but now its $12.99 haha). What I see, this,

Amazon.com: ARCTIC MX-4 (4 Grams) - Thermal Compound Paste, Carbon Based High Performance, Heatsink Paste, Thermal Compound CPU for All Coolers, Thermal Interface Material: Computers & Accessories

Is the very same paste but with less paste, correct? Another question, would this Noctua NT-H1 3.5g paste be good enough too?

Amazon.com: Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (3.5g): Electronics

Im ordering other parts as well so thats why Im trying to spend less even if its $4-5 or so.

Two reasons.

1: The easiest problem to fix, is that it is likely dirty inside the case. Take the case of and use compressed air to clean it. Put the Xbox case back on, try NBA 2K19 Playoff match. If it overheats again, it's the problem number two.

2: Slightly more complicated to fix but not hard, is that the thermal paste is not doing it's job. Reapply the thermal paste and try again. Use this YouTube video to walk yourself through the process.

Finally, I use this thermal paste for my CPUs/Xbox's.

I hope this helps!

>If i used the liquid metal thermal paste, would traveling with it cause a mess as well? Or should I look into one of the graphite thermal pads? I didn't even think of this possible issue, thanks for bringing it up.

I probably wouldn't recommend electively conductive liquid metal for a computer you're going to move a lot, but there's no need to resort to a graphite pad. More standard thermal paste options are probably better. You're also not technically allowed to take liquid metal thermal paste on aluminum airplanes.

> At this point the leading theory among said tech savvy friends is when the power supply died it sent a surge through the rest of the system.

That sounds like a fair guess, unfortunately. Most likely scenario is that the power supply took the motherboard with it. Depending on the motherboard you have - its name is usually etched or painted onto the board itself somewhere - you might be able to get a replacement for $50 and try it out.

PC building really is not so different than Legos nowadays. The very first work I ever did on my PC was swapping the CPU, with absolutely no advanced knowledge, just some patience and a careful hand. That was.. A lot of years ago, and now I could do it in my sleep.

If you're going to try this, you will want to grab some thermal paste from your local computer place, or Amazon. A screwdriver, some paper towel, isopropyl alcohol and your phone's camera to take pictures of where everything goes is about all you'll need besides.

Unplug the power, place the computer so the components are laying flat, be mindful of cables that have "clip" releases, and take your time.

Reapplying the thermal paste is the only non-intuitive part of it, and it's still pretty simple.

I have every confidence you could perform a motherboard swap by yourself, but it couldn't hurt to have one tech savvy friend come by to supervise. If it were me, my only fee would be a couple cold cans of Pepsi - I'm sure you can use your imagination for yours!

Yeah of course, I went for Arctic MX-4, it depends on what you can get you hand on, i wouldn’t recommend graphite pads for a laptop.You also mentioned that you have your laptop for 3 weeks thus you shouldn’t worry about changing,the paste for like a year.

Anyway, here is a list of good thermal compounds: •Arctic Silver 5 •Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut •Noctua NT-H1

That Cooler is more than enough. Is there a specific reason you chose that cooler?

For me personally I will buy this CM Hyper 212 Black for much cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

And you need to clean the old thermal paste, put some new on and install the cooler.

This MX-4 will work very well: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=mx-4&qid=1598575044&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T

Ngl I'd get this

Repaste. I used this one and have had no issues at all: https://www.amazon.com/-/es/gp/product/B07L9BDY3T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's a useful tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ph2ibK79zd8

Also consider changing the pads. Sometimes undervolting isn't enough if the heat is not being conducted properly. I was reaching temps above 95, but after repasting it got down to 88, sometimes even <82 when undervolting.

I've replaced mine for that reason. It's definitely a little more challenging, but not impossible. Unfortunately there's no videos documenting it, but it's still a repair you can do at home. I'll try my best to describe the steps. Go ahead and read through and think about it before you commit to buying the parts.

The screen is two separate parts. The outer plastic part is called the digitizer, and is what senses your touch. Under that is the LCD which actually displays images. With that said, you will need to remove the digitizer, which is glued on. But don't be scared! It sounds worse then it actually is.

First things first, you'll need a few parts. The actual shells, thermal paste (you can use any type just not liquid metal), electronic double sided tape, and optionally a new digitizer.

First things first, unscrew the back cover. I like to mark down on paper a little diagram of each screw hole and place the screw that came out of each hole on it, then tape it down. There's plenty of youtube videos on how to take off the digitizer, so I would recommend watching one. I found this one by Tronix Fix useful.

Under the digitizer is four philips head screws that hold the front plate in. Once you pull them out, you can take the digitizer out. You'll need to gently take the power button, volume buttons, and their accompanying parts out and into the new plate. It's pretty easy as they just slide in and out. Be extremely careful and don't yank on them as you may break the cables and have to buy a new one (that's what I did.)

At this point just do everything in reverse. You can replace the digitizer if you want. That'll fix any scratches you have. Next is the tedious part of cutting and placing the adhesive on the switch. Basically, cover the entire inner lip with it. Make sure not to get any on the way of the ribbon cable or the light sensor (a small hole on the bottom left corner.) But cover it completely.

Wipe down the digitizer and LCD with a microfiber cloth and a lit of isopropyl alcohol. This will get rid of any dirt, then gently lay down the digitizer onto the switch. There's a white backing on the adhesive that'll need removed first. I highly recommend leaving it on and practicing lining it up. If it's not lined up the. You may see the edges of the LCD. Again, refer to that YouTube video and maybe another for more details.

Then at this point it's just a matter of putting it back together. Be extremely careful of the ribbon cables and their connectors. A good pair of tweezers is extremely useful. MAKE SURE YOU APPLY THERMAL PASTE BETWEEN THE SOC AND ITS HEATSINK. This allows for proper heat transfer between the lot electronics and the heatsink and will increase the longevity of the system. Do no lt reuse the existing thermal paste. Tighten the screws on the heatsink in numerical order (they are labeled.) The final step is to put the plate back on and turn it back on. If you did it right it should work just as normal. If you find the LCD doesn't turn on, then check the two ribbon cables and make sure they are properly attached. If the digitizer and card slot doesn't work, then the daughter board inside the switch needs reseated.

That was a lot and it sounds extremely scary. But you don't need a degree in electrical engineering to fix your switch! Go slow, do through research on taking it apart, and be careful to keep track of your parts. I firmly believe with enough research anyone can fix their own electronics and it's far cheaper than sending it to nintendo. Like I said, there's no videos on replacing the shells, but there are plenty that get you very close. If you do attempt this repair, feel free to DM or just reply to this post with some questions. This goes for anyone who wants to fix it.

I'm actually considering another digitizer replacement since I was stupid and didn't put a screen protector on immediately after I replaced it. If I do then I'm considering documenting the process and show how to replace the shells. If I do then I may post a link of it on reddit.

I own an Envy x360 with a Ryzen chip. I have had the machine for 2 years now so I'll tell you what I have done to the machine to improve it. Some of the following are essential while some are simply nice to have.

Starting with the essentials, up to date drivers are a must with Ryzen machines. Although you have a 3000 series mobile chip which came with a lot fewer headaches than the first generation 2000 series chips, it is still absolutely necessary that you have up to date graphics and chipset drivers. These two downloads (Graphics and Chipsets) can be found on AMD's website using the drop-down menu.

While you can simply use Windows Update to download drivers for things such as WiFi and Bluetooth, I use the HP Support Assistant tool, which is the only one of HP's programs I kept on my machine.

This segways perfectly into our next essential improvements, an SSD. This isn't specific to your machine, but every computer should have an SSD. If your machine came with one, great, you can skip this step. I didn't configure my Envy x360 with an SSD from the factory as it had an open M.2 slot and I could install one myself for cheaper. However, even if yours does not have a slot, it is quite easy to replace an old Hard Drive with a SATA SSD, and it is quite cheap to do. In addition, a clean Windows install that removes all of the HP bloatware is very nice.

On the less essential side, power options under control panel are something I use quite often to extend my own x360's battery life and performance.

When I'm using the machine for simple tasks such as browsing the web, streaming video, or doing office work, I create a "Power Saver" plan. The main changes to the "Power Saver" plan I make are under Change advanced power settings > Processor Power Management. Here, under Maximum Processor State, I change the limit to 75% for both on battery and plugged in, as well as change System Cooling Policy to "Passive." I find this helps to extend battery life just a little bit more and to keep fan noise down to a minimum. Although it is worth noting that my x360 is not inherently bad wit either. Hence why this is a "less essential" improvement.

One thing I did that was unnecessary, but I still recommend doing if you are comfortable, is replacing the thermal paste on the CPU (and GPU if your machine has a separate one) with a quality one. This helps to reduce both heat and noise coming from the machine as often times OEMs use cheap thermal paste or have poor applications. I used Arctic MX-4 on my own machine and it worked quite well, although other pastes such as Arctic Silver 5, Noctua NT-H1, and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut are all good options.

I don't know exactly what you are going to do with your machine. However, 16GB of RAM is also something great to have if you are gaming or any sort of heavy workstation applications such as video editing, AutoCAD, etc. Since your Vega 10 integrated GPU will be sharing system memory with your Ryzen 7 3700U CPU, an extra 8GB of memory is always nice to have. If your system has 2 SODIMM (RAM) slots, just make sure if you do end up buying a new kit of memory that it is dual-channel since Ryzen CPUs heavily benefit from dual-channel (i.e. Make sure your system is running 2 8GB memory modules as opposed to 1 16GB stick).

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That's all I've got for now, if I can think of any more I'll be sure to edit it into this comment later. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask, as I am happy to help. :)

Hopefully my 5th grade paint skills are enough. I bought 2 packs of mini heat sinks and 2 heat pipes. I was going to add the mini heat sinks right on top of the CPU heat pipes then bridge the third heat pipe of the CPU and GPU. Since the CPU is the thing that is the FIERY GATES OF HELL it would soak over to the third pipe on the GPU. I was thing going to run a heat pipe from the CPU in-between the heat sinks to the fin stack by laying it on top of the heat pipes since the fin stack is below the existing heat pipes.

Since this is all done with thermal adhesive probably get less than ideal thermal connectivity than thermal ceramic or soldering. That is to be expected because of the 1.5 W/m-k of the tape but if I use MX-4 it's 8.5 W/mk witch is a hell of a improvement might go that route since MX-4 is easy to clean up. There is the Fujipoly thermal pad that is 11.0watt/mk of transfer but costs more than the a tube of MX-4 but has higher thermal connectivity. I would us Artic Silver 5 but that stuff is hard to clean up and I prefer to avoid the mess if I can. During Ps3 YLOD phase people used Copper shims to increase thermal transfer of the GPU/CPU might be an option but we will see. They were used with the Xbox 360 with varying degrees of results.

So looks like your processor is an Intel Core i3-7100U, meaning it's most probably soldered to the motherboard and isn't in some sort of socket that allows for removal of the old CPU and insertion of a new one, like most other desktops do. If you're keen on/interested in upgrading the CPU, I'd recommend taking off the CPU cooler (the big black fan on the green motherboard) by watching a few YouTube videos on how to do that then sending me pictures.

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As far as the rest of the upgrades go, I've compiled a list of Amazon parts that I'd recommend for upgrades if I were you. However, you haven't really given me a budget so I'm going to not go overboard but also not cheap out.

RAM: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-8GBx2-PC4-19200-288-Pin-Memory/dp/B01BIWLED0/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=16gb+ddr4+2x8gb+2133mhz&qid=1604820304&refinements=p_n_feature_twenty_browse-bin%3A16158157011&rnid=9729693011&s=pc&sr=1-14

Storage: you should upgrade to an SSD, hands down the best and cheapest thing you can do to your PC to upgrade its overall speed. I personally would go with a nice Samsung 1TB SSD: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Samsung+1TB+SSD&qid=1604820400&s=electronics&sr=1-3 but within this link in Amazon you can choose a different storage size.

3.5" (existing HDD) to 2.5" (new SSD) Adapter Cage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZWX6PD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CPU Thermal Paste: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Performance-Durability/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=CPU+Thermal+paste&qid=1604820440&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Compressed Air Can to clean off the dust from the inside of your computer: https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Compressed-Disposable-Cleaning-DPSJB/dp/B0000AE67M/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=compressed+air+can&qid=1604820457&s=electronics&sr=1-3

I don't have your graphics card model or information, and I can see there's one in the PCI-E slot at the bottom right of your post's image. Follow this link: https://www.windowscentral.com/how-determine-graphics-card-windows-10 and send me an image/screenshot/type out what graphics card you have, then I can tell you what you should upgrade to. In all honesty, I think I'll need a little more information, like your budget, what you're going to be using this upgraded PC for, and a definitive computer model (I still can't work with Dell D11S). Try this link: https://www.dell.com/support/article/en-us/sln298441/how-to-find-the-product-model-of-your-dell-computer?lang=en to find what your model number is and let me know accordingly.

Cheers!