API Aquarium Test Kit

l 100% understand the quarantine situation. You can get a master test kit from amazon: here. The problem is space. Fish stores and the like will completely BS a customer "Yeah those fish can live together," "Yeah this tank will be big enough," in order to make a sale. Goldfish need a lot of room, single tailed goldfish need an INSANE amount of room. They need this because their bodies will stop growing, but their organs do not. This is why goldfish only live for at most a few years when in tiny spaces before developing health problems or dying from their stunting.

For people who can't upgrade tanks right away I always say do as many water changes as you can while you wait. It won't fix the problem, but it will help. Goodluck, I'm routing for the little guy to live to enjoy a full sized tank.

API MASTER TEST KITS for Freshwater, Saltwater, Reef Aquariums and Pond, Monitor water quality and help prevent invisible problems that can be harmful to fish, Use weekly and when problems appear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZlgFbZJAC69S

Strips are extremely inaccurate - you need to test the water with the API kit.

You can use a simple Rubbermaid container to feed him in. It doesn't need to be fancy as it is only for feeding and you can dump the water afterwards.

Here is the test kit I use: https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

If the tank only has shrimp, you shouldn't really need to worry about cleaning the sand too much. Many of people don't clean their substrate at all, or only when it's really necessary. How often are you doing water changes and how much are you changing?

There are a lot of variables involved here so it's hard to say, but the TDS reading you are getting seems excessively high considering your water hardness. When you say it's "going up to 300-400" do you mean the water you add in is much lower but the TDS in the tank is still going up? Do you know what your nitrate level is?

I would highly recommend getting a liquid testing kit like the API freshwater master kit so you can confirm the parameters you are reading are accurate.

Starter bacteria is usually a waste of money. Step 1:) Thoroughly, understand the cycling process. 2:) Get yourself a water testing kit (avoid the strips), something like API Freshwater Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI . Step 3:) I cycled my aquarium by putting small amounts of plain ammonia in it, look at the ingredients to make certain it does NOT have surfactants in it. Step 4:) You're going to have to wait something like 4-8 weeks for it to completely cycle. Step 5:) Add your fish slowly, species by species, so as to not bombard your bacteria cultures. You have to be patient with this. Glo fish generally aren't cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

This is a popular one. Looks to come with 4 vials for testing along with the chemicals.

Is the API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT okay?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0ln7EbAVEB6VE

Do you dechlorinate the water? Also, if you plan on getting more fish, a liquid test kit would be a good investment, so you know if water quality is what’s causing strange fish behavior. API makes the best one at the best price in my opinion—$22.54 on Amazon—and it lasts for a long time, so the price really is worth it.

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4AKdEbTDHA29T

I’d also recommend reading up on the nitrogen cycle in aquariums, and stocking recommendations for a 10 gallon tank. There’s lots of great info on fishkeeping online and in published books. If you do research, I’m sure you’ll have a great classroom aquarium with a little effort!

API MASTER TEST KITS for Freshwater, Saltwater, Reef Aquariums and Pond, Monitor water quality and help prevent invisible problems that can be harmful to fish, Use weekly and when problems appear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mLe0EbTQ5KXMR

API master test kit

This is the one I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jvehFbJK1M9FP

You’re gonna want a thermometer to check the temp, temps too low can stress the fish out which weakens the immune system!

I agree with others, water changes in a 3 gallon tank are needed at least twice a week at about 20-30% Id say, with a gravel vacuum! In 4 weeks, nitrates can build up a lot especially in smaller tanks.

I would purchase a test kit, so you know what the water quality is like.

• API Master test kit

9/10 times fin rot is caused by water quality issues! Which luckily is an easy fix

API MASTER TEST KITS for Freshwater, Saltwater, Reef Aquariums and Pond, Monitor water quality and help prevent invisible problems that can be harmful to fish, Use weekly and when problems appear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NaWXEbB4RFBY5

of course, I'm glad it's helpful.

My guess - but I don't know - would be that changing the water every week probably kept the ammonia levels low enough that he was fine for quite a while, (so again good on your girlfriend!!) and then something threw it out of whack. Maybe uneaten food, or something in your water source changed? I've definitely read about people keeping bettas alive for years in really terrible conditions, tiny bowls with no filter, heater, anything, so it's possible he was fine and probably quite happy since you said he was thriving for those first four months and something subtle changed? There are so many variables.

I would definitely recommend an API master test kit though! they're $20 ish bucks and then it'll be really easy to keep and eye out for ammonia or nitrites spiking, and then process of elimination, so if it's not the water that killed him, at least you'll know and be able to look for other solutions!

It's great that you guys are obviously interested in learning, god knows i've spent a ridiculous amount of time on this subreddit trying to figure it all out and still new information pops up that I haven't seen before.

This will give you just about everything you need.

API Aquarium Test Kit

A freshwater test kit. It’s currently on amazon for 23 bucks. Also nerites poop a lot and theyre more on the boring side so I recommend shrimp only. They are super fun to watch and if they breed and have lil babies even better.

API Aquarium Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l-cyFb7QMTK9H

I don‘t know what you mean with bacteria. Like ammonia to start the cycle? Or live bacteria like fritz turbo start? I never used that. Always time and patience and some safe start plus by tetra.

They would use a kit like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

Tests for things like pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. Should be able to see how well cycled your tank is. You could order the kit yourself as well.

So something counter intuitive (it was to me atleast), DO % is inverse to temperature. The warmer the water, the lower the DO will get.

Save your money and don't waste it on an expensive DO tester or a pH monitor. This is the gold standard for testing your water and its something like ten cents USD per pH test. https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

Got a test kit from amazon. API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Api test kit

Ya, if the water is getting trapped in the cups it could lose oxygen and nutrients, like each cup is its own little swamp.

The coconut husk is really to keep the plant from falling out. In a deep water raft system like you're trying to make, you really want the roots hanging in the flowing water.

If you get a test kit, try testing the water in the cups and in the pond and see the difference, I'm curious.

Also try out a few different plants. I like to get green onions with roots on them from the store and just throw those in when in setting up a new system.

So, I am assuming you mean seachem prime, which is a water conditioner. You should add prime every time you do a water change (assuming you are using city water, as it has chlorine in it). Chlorine will kill your snail.

Now, my experience is from aquariums, so I am just thinking if your jar as a tiny aquarium. Others might have better advice. But as for water changes, there are a couple of theories on it.

The first method is to let it chill and let it build up the ammonia, which will spur the growth of beneficial bacteria relatively quickly. This is not as safe for the snail.

The second method is to get a freshwater water testing kit (made for aquariums, API brand is the general go to, here is what I'm talking about) and you will need to test the water daily. You will want to do a water change when you see the ammonia go above 0.5ppm. You will eventually start seeing nitrites appear, and then nitrates after that. When you water show no ammonia or nitrites, and only nitrates, your tank is cycled. This method is much safer for your snail.

Get more strips, or better yet, pick up a liquid test kit. Make sure to test your parameters often.. at least once a week so you can monitor and fix changes as they come. API Freshwater Master Test Kit ($25‐ish) is a good kit and will pay for itself in saved critter lives. :D

It's really a matter of personal preference. You could definitely keep the old gravel, and use root tabs and/or liquid fertilizer to fertilize the plants. Something like Aquasoil, EcoComplete, or flourite will offer additional nutrients, but generally won't eliminate the need for other fertilizers.

I've always used the API Freshwater Master test kit. Virtually any pet store should carry it, and it tests for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and pH.

I'd steer clear of test strips -- haven't had good luck with them.

I had six starter fish (danios and skirt tetras). I am using a droplet kit. Additionally I planted 14 live plants that melted or died in part. So perhaps the decaying plant matter contributed to the cycle. Nitrites were measuring over 5.0 ppm for a week and then almost all of a sudden they were at 2.0 and then 0. Here is the link.

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI I assume from amazon he gets everything off amazon lol

I feel like guppies can handle a medium flow? I'm not as familiar with them but I don't think there are many small fish that like a really strong flow. Same price as the pet stores. I recommend grabbing one, it's pretty important because even .1 PPM ammonia can over time (or as it builds up) kill your fish. If you have too many fish in it you could just be having a bacterial bloom (usually comes with ammonia spikes). Or if the amount of media you transferred over isn't covering the cycle for the amount of fish. That's usually why you get cloudy water. Which means your cycle is probably not at 100%, it's still working its way up.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NCI

API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

It’s not expensive. Only $22, it’s accurate, and it lasts years. Per test, it’s far less expensive than strips.

You should get one ASAP, especially with such a small tank. The The API Master Test Kit is best. I’m just curious, how did you cycle your tank without testing the water?

Okay so it’s likely a water quality and stress issue. Ideally you let the tank cycle without livestock for a few weeks so good bacteria can grow. Doing a fish in cycle you need to get a test kit and check your nitrogen compounds. Here’s the one most people prefer. the small water changes are a good idea but make sure to not disturb the good bacteria when you siphon.

That crayfish needs to go ASAP. Like yesterday. He will stress and eat everyone. They’re sadistic little bastards, I’ve seen them tear the fins off a fish and leave them gasping for breath on the bottom. They get huge and make a ton of waste that your new tank won’t support. You will end up with dead or injured fish. PetCo might still have the dollar a gallon sale but I think that ended last week. I would move the fish to a 20g and leave the crayfish in the 10 if you want to keep it. Hell throw the crayfish in a bucket with a small sponge filter even. He should last till you find a new tank or home for him.

Depending on the type of mollie I would likely take those back and get guppies or chili rasbora or maybe celestial pearl danios. Some mollies get pretty big and in a 10G they may crowd the betta. Also they’re more of a brackish hardwater fish. Bettas like softer acidic water. The two can work together but it’s going to be harder to keep both fish happy.

Aqadvisor has you at 101% stocking with red flags for crayfish aggression, betta aggression, mollie size potential and territory disputes. Without the crayfish you’re at 71%. If you like the mollies and don’t want to trade them for smaller fish then I would work on getting some live plants in there sooner rather than later. It will help everyone feel more comfortable and they help with nitrogen’s. Bettas love floating plants in my experience and floaters take atmospheric carbon meaning they can process more nitrogen. Plastic plants will tear bettas up and stress them.

Most people on here recommend the API freshwater test kit, I use it too and it's been great, pretty consistent and accurate and the kit lasts for quite a while. You can get other liquid test kits too but I don't really know much about those since the API one is most commonly sold in my country :) You can also buy the test strips for cheaper, but they are not recommended because of how vague the results can be and also they are not as accurate as the liquid kits.

I don't personally have a betta but they're gorgeous fish you and your son will love it :) /r/bettafish is a sub dedicated entirely to them though and I think you'll find heaps of info over there regarding tank mates and the likes, although it sounds like you've done some research already so that's awesome :)

API Freshwater Master Test Kit. They are the standard due to their accuracy and number of tests per kit.

I’d invest the money in a liquid test kit from API, can be found here on Amazon

Realistically you are probably looking at an ammonia spike since your tank isn’t cycled. (Look up online how to do a fish-in cycle). I definitely don’t recommend ever putting a fish in your tank until it’s completely cycled. If you aren’t sure how to tell just watch a few videos.

35x35x45 is a 15gallon which is a great size for a neocaridina shrimp colony.

Plexiglass can be used but has to be a certain thickness or it will warp and bend. I use around 1/8in acrylic for a lid and it warps frequently. I think 3/8in or 1/2 in would work, but I’m not so sure.

A filter isn’t 100% mandatory, but you should definitely use one, especially for your first tank. While you can have a healthy tank with no filter, it is much more involved.

You might need a heater. Fill the tank with water and monitor the temperature throughout the day. If the temp is below 65F or temperatures fluctuate more than a couple degrees, you’ll probably need a heater.

You’ll also need to read up on The Nitrogen Cycle

This is the test kit that I'm basing the machine on.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vPpBFbRFR680Z

API Aquarium Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_IDgQFbZ8T8GVP

do you have a heater? or using water conditioner? maybe you could check your water levels with a kit

No no no, try this one. Testing your water parameters is part of responsible aquatic-pet ownership. You are going to have to invest a little.

Aw I understand that. My parents didn't think that a betta would need a heater or a nice tank. However according to Amazon, the API freshwater liquid test kit is only 22.54 dollars right now. API Freshwater Test Kit I wish you the best!

Good job asking for help. I'd recommend picking up a full testing kit (this API one is often recommended and your local fish shop will probably have it) so you can check your ammonia, nitrate and nitrite levels as well, but since the result of picking things up will generally be "more regular 20% water changes" that's probably what you want to do even if you can't pick up a kit right away.

For water changes, it's generally recommended to do a 10-20% change once a week for your regular changes, rather than a 50% or up so that you don't upset the balance of the beneficial bacteria in the tank. (Some situations can call for large water changes, but they're rare, and usually the recommendation is to do 20% changes every day or every other day.)

With filter changes, what you do depends a lot on what type of filter you're using, but generally speaking you don't want to replace everything in your filter all at once, because again that can disturb the bacteria.

If your filter is one with filter cartridges, when they're getting gungy/clogged, you want to swill them around in the dirty tank water you've taken out of the tank during a water change to get the gunk off (don't use tap water because the chlorines are bad for the bacteria) before putting them back. They generally last longer than they say on the packet - you only need to replace them when they're falling apart, and a lot of people will add extra layers of sponge (just ordinary new kitchen sponge) into filters as an extra layer.

For what it's worth, while your fish doesn't look like it's in the best condition, it's also not the worst, and you're asking for help and doing the right thing. I hope your fish can make a full recovery quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BIV0Eb1A107DJ ^this?

The test strips can be inaccurate, I would try again with API Master Test, it’s much more reliable. You could have had a mini-cycle and ammonia spike, have you recently fed more or changed any media?

Do yourself a favor and buy this. The link is actually a really good sale. It's honestly a necessity for anyone who is sincerely invested in the welfare of their animals. Just do it.

https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI

API Aquarium Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f3NFFb6ZKXHC3

There you go!

API MASTER TEST KITS for Freshwater, Saltwater, Reef Aquariums and Pond, Monitor water quality and help prevent invisible problems that can be harmful to fish, Use weekly and when problems appear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cmWXEb5657CJW

Did you use prime or some other similar product? What was the Ammonia? You don't have nitrite or nitrate because it's not cycling/cycled.

First read up on cycling. This subs wiki has plenty of information on that. It could take months to properly cycle a tank. It's a whole process, not just having the filter running for a couple days. Get a real test kit. Test strips just aren't as good and are more expensive in the long run. If you still have fish in the tank then learn about fish in cycling. r/Bettafish has a good section on fish in cycling.

Six gallons is a small amount of water. Nano tanks can be difficult and aren't really great for beginners because the parameters can change very quickly. My guess is the non cycled(ammonia)/unstable tank killed the fish. Maybe start with a nice planted tank and work up to adding fish again. If you really want fish in this tank cycle it and keep track of all the parameters. Keeping track will be useful in figuring out your water.

Chasing ph is not recommend. Keeping it constant is way more important. I don't think anything you listed in the tank should cause a big swing in ph. The ph can change and I believe a certain amount is normal, someone else might have a better answer. I don't have much knowledge on that since mine is a constant 8.2 in all my tanks.

Even in a established tank new arrivals can die, especially if they come from big chain stores. My best advice is, honestly, start with a larger tank, 20-30 gallons is great for beginners. Cycle it, figure out how your water works and pick a good fish or group of fish for the tank. Once you have a larger aquarium under control, take on the Nano tank again.

I’ve never personally used the strips but everyone always says they are not very accurate. The link below is for the kit most people use.

Try this: API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_idFNEb7DR05N6

What you really need to see is the ammonia. Weird that strip doesn’t include ammonia.

Also, I hate to say it but those strips aren’t very good. It’d be better to have the solution kit.

API Aquarium Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_60aVFbJC6BEGE